Is your car Automatic? If it is better ease up on the pedal. If running on a normal road avoid reving your car more than 2 to 3K rpm. If manual, i suggest you check your air filters coz if it's dirty then engine suction will concentrate on the fuel more. It's like sipping on two straws, if one stra is blocked, then the tendency of the suction is to consume more on the other straw (soso) Oil has nothing to do with this esp if you're using locally distributed oils. They are usually designed for tropical weathers like here. And one more thing, when was the last time you had your Injection Pump Calibrated or its Injectors? these too contribute too high fuel consumption if left unchecked...
i use Caltex Delo 500 SAE 40, yup its also and the air cleaner was just cleaned, im not sure about the injection though, how often should I have this cleaned? Where and how much? thanks
Usually on my LC90 automatic...pag nag titipid ako ng crudo...hanggang 2rpm lang ako...pwera nalang pagnagmamadali laging 2rpm-3rpm which consume a lot and you can see the fuel gauge going down....huhuhu
try maintaing a low rpm..yung mga tips ni Sir Ungas nung nag Isuzu challenge sila
mahirap bang tanggalin ang turbo intercooler?
para sana mapalinis ko rin ang nozzle tips ko...magkano po price range nito?
Gassed-up today after about a combined 45/55 ratio of country-side/city driving, and the current fuel economy of my 1HD-T stands at 6.95 km./liter. Seems OK for one with 80,000 km. on the clock.
the engine size already does something to the fuel efficiency... Glenn gets the same with his Safari me thinks. Try to check your fuel system 9lines, filters, etc) to see if theyu're still good. I also think the SAE 40 oil might have some effect as the oil visco is consistent at 40 grade even when the engine starts up cold... If you noticed, the energy saving oils have a low visco.
mga sir ganu po b sa tingin nyo an dapay na kain ng crudo ng pajero 2.5 tdic? matic, 83000 kms na natatakbo? kc sa tingin ko po 7 to 8 km per liter po ang kain nung akin notmal po b ito/
SAE 40 is good in the protection side... what being looked into here as a possibility is that its a monograde with a single viscousity property. Thus the engine oil will cause the same resistance all thoughout the temp levels and engine performance cycle (cold operating temp, low RPM traffic conditions, etc). It was pointed out before that if you look at the oils that give "fuel saving" properties like Caltex Havoline Energy, they run on a thinner visousity which gives lesser resistance at cold and hot operating temps.
The local Sae40 oils have lower Api ratings(CD,CF) while the multigrades 15w40 usually start at ApiCF4 to CG4. This means better additives which keeps the oil from breaking down sooner. Also better detergents to keep engine clean.
Have fuel filter changed if it's done about 20k km.