Full active setup...

[Mschumacher]

Guys I've been planning on setting up my Kia Carens. Here is what I have in mind. For the headunit I'll get a pioneer avh p4150. For the subs is image dynamics ID8 v.3 (Can't go bigger than 8", Space issue) for seps wala pa akong naiisip and for amps wala pa din. I need a 3 way seps nga pala. I want a good setup with minimal cost, plus it should be pillar type. I need advice on what seps, amps and crossover to use. Sa subs kung may alternative sa Image dynamics na mas mura e di mas ok.

[Pajerokid29]

Guys I've been planning on setting up my Kia Carens. Here is what I have in mind. For the headunit I'll get a pioneer avh p4150. For the subs is image dynamics ID8 v.3 (Can't go bigger than 8", Space issue) for seps wala pa akong naiisip and for amps wala pa din. I need a 3 way seps nga pala. I want a good setup with minimal cost, plus it should be pillar type. I need advice on what seps, amps and crossover to use. Sa subs kung may alternative sa Image dynamics na mas mura e di mas ok.

Kung full active gusto as stated in your title, then start with a head unit na full active capable, (Alpine CDA 9887, Pioneer P800PRS, those kinda HU) then a total of atleast 5 available channels collectively sa amp if front stage lng gusto mo, pag pati likod atleast 9 (basta key is every speaker including tweeters should have it's own channel from the amp, or parallel wire mo, just make sure na magkakasama FL/FR/RR/RL mo) (1 mono and 1 4-channel) mono for subs then connect mo sa SUB output ng HU, ung isang 4-channel mo kabit mo sa front output, then each channel would power your midbass and tweets, same for rear which is connected to rear output of HU, di mo na kelanagan pa ng crossovers even if your speakers comes with passives, as for speakers, wag coax kasi the tweeters are integrated sa mids so ndi mo sya macocontrol independently, sa subs na 8" I think may nagbebenta before ng solobaric na 8" L7, , for seps, RYAN Audio, medyo budget, highend are Morel, DLS, Rainbow, check Hertz na DSK, ganda! goodluck with your Active Setup! if you need further help just PM me

[Mschumacher]

Kung full active gusto as stated in your title, then start with a head unit na full active capable, (Alpine CDA 9887, Pioneer P800PRS, those kinda HU) then a total of atleast 5 available channels collectively sa amp if front stage lng gusto mo, pag pati likod atleast 9 (basta key is every speaker including tweeters should have it's own channel from the amp, or parallel wire mo, just make sure na magkakasama FL/FR/RR/RL mo) (1 mono and 1 4-channel) mono for subs then connect mo sa SUB output ng HU, ung isang 4-channel mo kabit mo sa front output, then each channel would power your midbass and tweets, same for rear which is connected to rear output of HU, di mo na kelanagan pa ng crossovers even if your speakers comes with passives, as for speakers, wag coax kasi the tweeters are integrated sa mids so ndi mo sya macocontrol independently, sa subs na 8" I think may nagbebenta before ng solobaric na 8" L7, , for seps, RYAN Audio, medyo budget, highend are Morel, DLS, Rainbow, check Hertz na DSK, ganda! goodluck with your Active Setup! if you need further help just PM me

Sir yung headunit na Im getting has a fl fr rr rl and a sub out with a voltage output of 4v. What I have in mind is a good sub like image dynamic ID8 v.3. so kailangan ko ng two amps ba sir kasi gusto ko sana 3 way sa harap e nasa pilar ang tweeter and vocal and nasa pinto ang mid bass. then sa rear door ko balak ko wala ng amp diretso na sa unit. so ang kailangan ko ba e 7 channels all in all. ano ang pwede kong gamitin na amp. ok lang ba ang v12 na 2 - 4channel to power it all up. or should I get a good amp as well din. Thanks...

[xtian_joyaxx]

Sir..with your amp if you haven't got one atm best to save your money get a decent amplifier don't go with generic amps..remember "what you pay is what you get" ..based on my experience minimal cost or budget I end-up spending more.. whats your plan with your 8".. seald(make it sure compatible ito for seald dahil saw a 8" JL audio sub in seald natanggal yong dustcap sa harap) or ported? My suggestion go with 10" seald if space a problem..and hindi naman gaano malaki ang 10" sir.. if I would go for 8" I'll put them in a ported enclosure( but then again in a bigger enclosure 1.75cb/ft tuned to 32hz)...

try JBL amp and speakers they are not that expensive and has a very good reputation as well( im a jbl fan)...pero all the suggestion here were base sa mga taste namin..always follow your ears..dahil ikaw yong nakikinig.. choosing a system sir you need to consider/plan how much power your car can provide.. two or more amps fine depend how big ang set-up mo..saying this you need to plan again where are you going to hide this amps( if space a problem)..dahil meron naman mga amps ngayon 5 channels (4 channel + 1 sub)

always take your time..magwindow shopping ka and ask the store if they got a demo car.. good luck

[Pajerokid29]

Sir yung headunit na Im getting has a fl fr rr rl and a sub out with a voltage output of 4v. What I have in mind is a good sub like image dynamic ID8 v.3. so kailangan ko ng two amps ba sir kasi gusto ko sana 3 way sa harap e nasa pilar ang tweeter and vocal and nasa pinto ang mid bass. then sa rear door ko balak ko wala ng amp diretso na sa unit. so ang kailangan ko ba e 7 channels all in all. ano ang pwede kong gamitin na amp. ok lang ba ang v12 na 2 - 4channel to power it all up. or should I get a good amp as well din. Thanks...

What head unit are you planning to use? because not all 6 preout H/U are full active capable, some might just be a 2-way active H/U which controls you Highpass and lowpass but you would also need to control your bandpass (the gap between the HPF and LPF) and check up to what frequency your HU can go from it's LPF to it's HPF, may iba kasi na may HPF nga pero until 125HZ lng, as for your question kung ok na ang V12? on paper yes, pero it's up to you, I'd suggest a good four channel amp. as for wiring them, are you planning to connect the sub sa V12? if so then tama ka, 7 channels would do. here's how it shoud look like: 1st V12 amp (4ch) CH1 & CH2 - Tweets with HPF set at around 1KHZ or higher, CH3 & CH4 - Full-range (vocal), 2nd V12 amp CH1 & CH2 Midbass, CH3 and CH4 bridged to power the sub.if I were you, yung rear speakers ko kakabit ko sa amp, yung tweeter can share the channels for your front vocals since high frequency naman pplay nila e, you can wire the vocals and midbass i parallel to cut the resistance in half for your V12's to produce twice its power, just make sure your speakers won't give your amp a final ohm reading of 1 or lower kasi AFAIK, 2-ohm stable lang ang V12's. kung taga south ka lang maybe I can help you.

[Mschumacher]

What head unit are you planning to use? because not all 6 preout H/U are full active capable, some might just be a 2-way active H/U which controls you Highpass and lowpass but you would also need to control your bandpass (the gap between the HPF and LPF) and check up to what frequency your HU can go from it's LPF to it's HPF, may iba kasi na may HPF nga pero until 125HZ lng, as for your question kung ok na ang V12? on paper yes, pero it's up to you, I'd suggest a good four channel amp. as for wiring them, are you planning to connect the sub sa V12? if so then tama ka, 7 channels would do. here's how it shoud look like: 1st V12 amp (4ch) CH1 & CH2 - Tweets with HPF set at around 1KHZ or higher, CH3 & CH4 - Full-range (vocal), 2nd V12 amp CH1 & CH2 Midbass, CH3 and CH4 bridged to power the sub.if I were you, yung rear speakers ko kakabit ko sa amp, yung tweeter can share the channels for your front vocals since high frequency naman pplay nila e, you can wire the vocals and midbass i parallel to cut the resistance in half for your V12's to produce twice its power, just make sure your speakers won't give your amp a final ohm reading of 1 or lower kasi AFAIK, 2-ohm stable lang ang V12's. kung taga south ka lang maybe I can help you.

Thank you sir pajerokid for the reply. Yung HU na makukuha ko is not capable of full active pala e. it has 6 pre outs but two of each lang front, rear, and sub. What if I do it like this I'll get one 3 way active crossover to filter the frequency for my 3-way speaker. Then I'll set the crossover to front only then from there I'll filter the frequencies for tweeter, vocals and mid bass. then for the rear speakers I'll directly get the line from the headunit same goes for the subs. but the sub will definitely go through an amplifier. but for the rear it may or may not pass an ampli. if this would work would I still be needing the passive crossover that goes with the 3 way seps. thanks again for the help. What would be the best cheap amps, 3 way seps, crossover and subs you could suggest. What I have in mind is firland amps, dls seps, any 3 way crossover and image dynamics 8" subs.

[xtian_joyaxx]

Thank you sir pajerokid for the reply. Yung HU na makukuha ko is not capable of full active pala e. it has 6 pre outs but two of each lang front, rear, and sub. What if I do it like this I'll get one 3 way active crossover to filter the frequency for my 3-way speaker. Then I'll set the crossover to front only then from there I'll filter the frequencies for tweeter, vocals and mid bass. then for the rear speakers I'll directly get the line from the headunit same goes for the subs. but the sub will definitely go through an amplifier. but for the rear it may or may not pass an ampli. if this would work would I still be needing the passive crossover that goes with the 3 way seps. thanks again for the help. What would be the best cheap amps, 3 way seps, crossover and subs you could suggest. What I have in mind is firland amps, dls seps, any 3 way crossover and image dynamics 8" subs.

Sir mawalang galang po pa interrup sa inyo ulit... Sir medyo complicated ang plano ninyo more likely maraming kang makukuhang problema pagganyan set-up mo.. make your set-up simple as much as possible..two decent amps a "2 channel amps" and a "4 channel amp" or 1 mono amp and a 4 channel amp(if you dont want the 5 chanel amp)this will solve your problem.. dont worry at the moment with the ACTIVE x-over..and why not to worry coz if you buy this 3 way components already includes passive x-over.. just connect it straight to your 4ch amp(frnt/rear) and let the amps x-over do the job to cut the frequency.(wag yong mga generic na amps po sir dahil lalo sasakit ang ulo mo hindi reliable ang x-over nito) the 2nd mono-channel amp will power your sub.. Dont use your headunit alone to power the rear speakers (kung ito sa isa sa mga plano mo) more likely it will peak or clip soon enough..dyan ka magproblema baka hindi mo yan mamalayan nanagclip napala ang lingkod dahil sa lakas ng front ends mo..always use an amp the more power youll give to your speakers the cleaner it sounds..

"What if I do it like this I'll get one 3 way active crossover to filter the frequency for my 3-way speaker. "

if this is the case you will need more amps(3 amps or 1 2-chan for tweeters and a 4-chan for mid and woofer) for the front, 1 amp for the rear and another amp for the sub..:nerves: sir again make it simple..

What would be the best cheap amps, 3 way seps, crossover and subs you could suggest. What I have in mind is firland amps, dls seps, any 3 way crossover and image dynamics 8" subs.

choosing a speakers it will depend on how much you want to spend and kung ano ang comfortable sa tinga mo and would go for line-driver(it will help boost the signal from your HU) instead po sir ng Active X-over dahil yong 4volts mo sa HU hindi nayan 4volts pagdating sa amps mo at lalo lagyan mo pang active xover.. para walang regrets magaudi ka at pakkingan mo ang details bawat spkears sir ..dahil nangyari na sa akin ito may nagsuggest sa akin na brand (mamahalin) pinakinggan at nagustuhan ko pero my only mistake was im so anxious and cant wait..meron pa pala masganda at mura pa.. good luck

[Pajerokid29]

Sir mawalang galang po pa interrup sa inyo ulit... Sir medyo complicated ang plano ninyo more likely maraming kang makukuhang problema pagganyan set-up mo.. make your set-up simple as much as possible..two decent amps a "2 channel amps" and a "4 channel amp" or 1 mono amp and a 4 channel amp(if you dont want the 5 chanel amp)this will solve your problem.. dont worry at the moment with the ACTIVE x-over..and why not to worry coz if you buy this 3 way components already includes passive x-over.. just connect it straight to your 4ch amp(frnt/rear) and let the amps x-over do the job to cut the frequency.(wag yong mga generic na amps po sir dahil lalo sasakit ang ulo mo hindi reliable ang x-over nito) the 2nd mono-channel amp will power your sub.. Dont use your headunit alone to power the rear speakers (kung ito sa isa sa mga plano mo) more likely it will peak or clip soon enough..dyan ka magproblema baka hindi mo yan mamalayan nanagclip napala ang lingkod dahil sa lakas ng front ends mo..always use an amp the more power youll give to your speakers the cleaner it sounds..

"What if I do it like this I'll get one 3 way active crossover to filter the frequency for my 3-way speaker. "

if this is the case you will need more amps(3 amps or 1 2-chan for tweeters and a 4-chan for mid and woofer) for the front, 1 amp for the rear and another amp for the sub..:nerves: sir again make it simple..

What would be the best cheap amps, 3 way seps, crossover and subs you could suggest. What I have in mind is firland amps, dls seps, any 3 way crossover and image dynamics 8" subs.

choosing a speakers it will depend on how much you want to spend and kung ano ang comfortable sa tinga mo and would go for line-driver(it will help boost the signal from your HU) instead po sir ng Active X-over dahil yong 4volts mo sa HU hindi nayan 4volts pagdating sa amps mo at lalo lagyan mo pang active xover.. para walang regrets magaudi ka at pakkingan mo ang details bawat spkears sir ..dahil nangyari na sa akin ito may nagsuggest sa akin na brand (mamahalin) pinakinggan at nagustuhan ko pero my only mistake was im so anxious and cant wait..meron pa pala masganda at mura pa.. good luck

That's a thought, although for sure there are pros and cons going full-active like:

Passive: Impedance rise, once heated, the resistors, conductors, etc. heats up, thus changing the values of the crossover points you have, also it makes the Amplifier work harder amplifying all the signal then the passives would waste them by ditching those that aren't needed, thus the term filter.

Active: No Impedance rise from any external device, your amp would be less stressed because it amplifies only the signal that would actually go in your speakers, thus making your sound more consistent and a clear.

as for your questions, if you plan to go full active, no need to connect the passives, remember the diff between active and passive is where you filter your signal, active: before amplifying, Passive: after amplification, the best way to go active is through your head unit, also , do not be bothered much by the diff bet 2V and 4V, you can gain-match your amp with your HU and also these 2V, 4V values are MAX, not Vrms, by the time you really see 4V out of your HU, you might already hear distortion, if your HU is not full active capable, yes you can go with a an active X-over, like Lanzer vibe X5 or X6, as much as possible, try to get one that has 6 rca's as well, just make sure that you turn ALL x-over and filter to OFF from your HU and do all processing sa x-over, nice thing about external x-over is some also boost your pre-out voltage from 4V up to 8V. also try to amplify every speakers.

[Mschumacher]

Sir mawalang galang po pa interrup sa inyo ulit... Sir medyo complicated ang plano ninyo more likely maraming kang makukuhang problema pagganyan set-up mo.. make your set-up simple as much as possible..two decent amps a "2 channel amps" and a "4 channel amp" or 1 mono amp and a 4 channel amp(if you dont want the 5 chanel amp)this will solve your problem.. dont worry at the moment with the ACTIVE x-over..and why not to worry coz if you buy this 3 way components already includes passive x-over.. just connect it straight to your 4ch amp(frnt/rear) and let the amps x-over do the job to cut the frequency.(wag yong mga generic na amps po sir dahil lalo sasakit ang ulo mo hindi reliable ang x-over nito) the 2nd mono-channel amp will power your sub.. Dont use your headunit alone to power the rear speakers (kung ito sa isa sa mga plano mo) more likely it will peak or clip soon enough..dyan ka magproblema baka hindi mo yan mamalayan nanagclip napala ang lingkod dahil sa lakas ng front ends mo..always use an amp the more power youll give to your speakers the cleaner it sounds..

"What if I do it like this I'll get one 3 way active crossover to filter the frequency for my 3-way speaker. "

if this is the case you will need more amps(3 amps or 1 2-chan for tweeters and a 4-chan for mid and woofer) for the front, 1 amp for the rear and another amp for the sub..:nerves: sir again make it simple..

What would be the best cheap amps, 3 way seps, crossover and subs you could suggest. What I have in mind is firland amps, dls seps, any 3 way crossover and image dynamics 8" subs.

choosing a speakers it will depend on how much you want to spend and kung ano ang comfortable sa tinga mo and would go for line-driver(it will help boost the signal from your HU) instead po sir ng Active X-over dahil yong 4volts mo sa HU hindi nayan 4volts pagdating sa amps mo at lalo lagyan mo pang active xover.. para walang regrets magaudi ka at pakkingan mo ang details bawat spkears sir ..dahil nangyari na sa akin ito may nagsuggest sa akin na brand (mamahalin) pinakinggan at nagustuhan ko pero my only mistake was im so anxious and cant wait..meron pa pala masganda at mura pa.. good luck

That's a thought, although for sure there are pros and cons going full-active like:

Passive: Impedance rise, once heated, the resistors, conductors, etc. heats up, thus changing the values of the crossover points you have, also it makes the Amplifier work harder amplifying all the signal then the passives would waste them by ditching those that aren't needed, thus the term filter.

Active: No Impedance rise from any external device, your amp would be less stressed because it amplifies only the signal that would actually go in your speakers, thus making your sound more consistent and a clear.

as for your questions, if you plan to go full active, no need to connect the passives, remember the diff between active and passive is where you filter your signal, active: before amplifying, Passive: after amplification, the best way to go active is through your head unit, also , do not be bothered much by the diff bet 2V and 4V, you can gain-match your amp with your HU and also these 2V, 4V values are MAX, not Vrms, by the time you really see 4V out of your HU, you might already hear distortion, if your HU is not full active capable, yes you can go with a an active X-over, like Lanzer vibe X5 or X6, as much as possible, try to get one that has 6 rca's as well, just make sure that you turn ALL x-over and filter to OFF from your HU and do all processing sa x-over, nice thing about external x-over is some also boost your pre-out voltage from 4V up to 8V. also try to amplify every speakers.

Thank you sir xtian and sir pajerokid for your suggestion. I've audi some active and passive sound setup when I was in davao and I like the sound that being thrown by the full active setup. both of the unit I've audi are pajero and isang tao lang ang nagsetup. The full active has a better clarity in it, and it feels like every speaker has their own job to do giving its sound a livelier environment. that's why I wanted to go full active and a pillar setup. So its ok to use a 3 way x-over? If its ok what would you suggest?
Amps (9 channels total most probably, Is firland ok???)-
X-over-
Seps(got DSL UP36 in mind already)-
Subs (Maximum of 8" only limited space kasi, Got Image dynamics ID8V.32 in mind) -

By the way my unit is Kia Carens and has a very limited trunk space so I can't go beyond 8" in subs. and also in a very tight budget.

[xtian_joyaxx]

hello sir ito naman tayo..LOL.. sir kung plano ninyo ang 3 way xover ang magdadala sa lahat drivers mo...so your planning as well to get an individual driver(tweeters , mid, woofer)? dahil if buy a 3 way components the manufacturer will not recommend removing the passive x-over coz these are pre-match and design to the drivers and it will void your warranty.. you need to remember may mumurahin na Active x-over at may mamahilan.. if would go sa mumurahin(cheap) na x-over hindi yan maganda magfilter..so more likely makakasira yan ng driver( so need to get or look into what kind of components they using in thier xover network) ..And by the way an active-xover alone will not amplify the frequencies this will just sort out the signal what goes in to your specific drivers. it is best to get the active-xover and has the line driver feature.. and if heard a set-up based on one installer only you need to go out and seek for more.. dyan ka makakuha kung anong ideal system na gusto mo..

Sir, trust me these are not just thoughts..this is based on experience and lots of trial and errors.. Either way its your choice.. Im just sharing..

[gonzo]

Thank you sir xtian and sir pajerokid for your suggestion. I've audi some active and passive sound setup when I was in davao and I like the sound that being thrown by the full active setup. both of the unit I've audi are pajero and isang tao lang ang nagsetup. The full active has a better clarity in it, and it feels like every speaker has their own job to do giving its sound a livelier environment. that's why I wanted to go full active and a pillar setup. So its ok to use a 3 way x-over? If its ok what would you suggest?
Amps (9 channels total most probably, Is firland ok???)-
X-over-
Seps(got DSL UP36 in mind already)-
Subs (Maximum of 8" only limited space kasi, Got Image dynamics ID8V.32 in mind) -

By the way my unit is Kia Carens and has a very limited trunk space so I can't go beyond 8" in subs. and also in a very tight budget.

Sir can I comment, going full active is not a guaranty that your setup will sound the same as with the car you auditioned.

Full active - Means you are the one who will set the cutoff freq of each driver.
Pro- It gives you full control in tuning each driver (speaker)
Cons - If you are not experience enough, a mistake on cutoff frequency will damage the speaker.

3way seps- Individual driver on each freq on the musical spectrum (High/MR/Midbase)

Pro - If tune/ aim properly can give you the best tonal accuracy and balance on your system.

Con - A head ache in install and tuning. Aiming of driver is a trial and error thing since no two car is acoustically the same. Having a three way system is a double edged blade, its either you get it right and enjoy the outcome or you will totally be dis-appointed in not properly done.

I know a lot of 2 way system install that sounded much better than 3 way, same as passive setup sounding better than full active if done correctly.

Sir xtian_joyaxx is right keep it simple and the key is install and tuning not that its Full active and 3 way. Good luck

My 0.02C

[Pajerokid29]

Thank you sir xtian and sir pajerokid for your suggestion. I've audi some active and passive sound setup when I was in davao and I like the sound that being thrown by the full active setup. both of the unit I've audi are pajero and isang tao lang ang nagsetup. The full active has a better clarity in it, and it feels like every speaker has their own job to do giving its sound a livelier environment. that's why I wanted to go full active and a pillar setup. So its ok to use a 3 way x-over? If its ok what would you suggest?
Amps (9 channels total most probably, Is firland ok???)-
X-over-
Seps(got DSL UP36 in mind already)-
Subs (Maximum of 8" only limited space kasi, Got Image dynamics ID8V.32 in mind) -

By the way my unit is Kia Carens and has a very limited trunk space so I can't go beyond 8" in subs. and also in a very tight budget.

Here's my setup just to give you an idea:

1-set Infinity 6020 cs consists of: 2 midbass, 2 tweeters
1-set Rainbow SLC 265 consists of 2 midbass 2 tweeters
2 V12 amps
1 Hifonics Brutus amps (for subs)
2 10" Hifonics brutus subs
H/U: Pioneer 4050UB (2-way active)

Note: my H/U is 2-way active only so even though I have all my speakers wired directly to my V12's, my tweets have a capacitors in them, that I placed in it's wiring, I forgot the value, this is to block out any low frequency from going in and blowing your tweets, the mid bass though are pretty much straight-forward, I made sure though that my V12's HPF are set to ON, then adjusted my HU's HPF to 125HZ since it has its own sub control (I'm saving up for a either a Alpine CDA 9887 or Pioneer P80PRS, these are expensive full-active HU's with Time Alignment as well)

In respect to previous posts, yes Passive and Active has it's own pros and cons, it's just a matter of taste, bugdet, and free-time for tweaking it, actually if we have a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being the best sounding, it is going to be harder to get to 10 with passive, yet much rewarding as it's more than just a install then sit-back-and-relax system as most manufacturers claim them to be, remember impedance/resistance rise as more heat is genarated? it changes the values or cut-off points of the passive's internal resistors/capacitors.

with going full active, the best way really (which I over-looked initially) is to get a full-active HU, it will save you in the long run than getting an outboard electronic crossover, since 8" sub is what your planning to use, you can get 1 4-ch amp and 1 5-ch amp connect your front stage to the 4-ch, connect your A-pillar, rear and subs to the 5 channel, Firland is a good brand, not that known but I've heard and seen them, seems OK for me, if you're already stuck with the HU that you have, then some electronic X-over you can look at are:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ar+VIBEX6.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ar+VIBEX8.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_526_Kicker+KX3.html

and of course

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...N+MODEL+-.html

for seps you can simply get 2 sets of 2-way comps and subs

DLS is a good brand, you can also get HERTZ, Rainbow, MB Quart, Morel, Focal, kung medyo budget you can try Ryan Audio, they have something that are like Focal, which also are made out of POLYGLASS, for subs if 8" na talaga then ID or these can do:

http://www.mickeysautosound.com/8-in...subwoofer.html

http://www.mickeysautosound.com/8-in...subwoofer.html

also I noticed that at Mickey's, all MB Quarts are 50% off, so you might want to take advantage of it to.

Coming from a car guy that has experience with both active and passives, I love tinkering stuff so I love my active setup.

[Mschumacher]

Sir can I comment, going full active is not a guaranty that your setup will sound the same as with the car you auditioned.

Full active - Means you are the one who will set the cutoff freq of each driver.
Pro- It gives you full control in tuning each driver (speaker)
Cons - If you are not experience enough, a mistake on cutoff frequency will damage the speaker.

3way seps- Individual driver on each freq on the musical spectrum (High/MR/Midbase)

Pro - If tune/ aim properly can give you the best tonal accuracy and balance on your system.

Con - A head ache in install and tuning. Aiming of driver is a trial and error thing since no two car is acoustically the same. Having a three way system is a double edged blade, its either you get it right and enjoy the outcome or you will totally be dis-appointed in not properly done.

I know a lot of 2 way system install that sounded much better than 3 way, same as passive setup sounding better than full active if done correctly.

Sir xtian_joyaxx is right keep it simple and the key is install and tuning not that its Full active and 3 way. Good luck

My 0.02C

Here's my setup just to give you an idea:

1-set Infinity 6020 cs consists of: 2 midbass, 2 tweeters
1-set Rainbow SLC 265 consists of 2 midbass 2 tweeters
2 V12 amps
1 Hifonics Brutus amps (for subs)
2 10" Hifonics brutus subs
H/U: Pioneer 4050UB (2-way active)

Note: my H/U is 2-way active only so even though I have all my speakers wired directly to my V12's, my tweets have a capacitors in them, that I placed in it's wiring, I forgot the value, this is to block out any low frequency from going in and blowing your tweets, the mid bass though are pretty much straight-forward, I made sure though that my V12's HPF are set to ON, then adjusted my HU's HPF to 125HZ since it has its own sub control (I'm saving up for a either a Alpine CDA 9887 or Pioneer P80PRS, these are expensive full-active HU's with Time Alignment as well)

In respect to previous posts, yes Passive and Active has it's own pros and cons, it's just a matter of taste, bugdet, and free-time for tweaking it, actually if we have a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being the best sounding, it is going to be harder to get to 10 with passive, yet much rewarding as it's more than just a install then sit-back-and-relax system as most manufacturers claim them to be, remember impedance/resistance rise as more heat is genarated? it changes the values or cut-off points of the passive's internal resistors/capacitors.

with going full active, the best way really (which I over-looked initially) is to get a full-active HU, it will save you in the long run than getting an outboard electronic crossover, since 8" sub is what your planning to use, you can get 1 4-ch amp and 1 5-ch amp connect your front stage to the 4-ch, connect your A-pillar, rear and subs to the 5 channel, Firland is a good brand, not that known but I've heard and seen them, seems OK for me, if you're already stuck with the HU that you have, then some electronic X-over you can look at are:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ar+VIBEX6.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ar+VIBEX8.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_526_Kicker+KX3.html

and of course

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...N+MODEL+-.html

for seps you can simply get 2 sets of 2-way comps and subs

DLS is a good brand, you can also get HERTZ, Rainbow, MB Quart, Morel, Focal, kung medyo budget you can try Ryan Audio, they have something that are like Focal, which also are made out of POLYGLASS, for subs if 8" na talaga then ID or these can do:

http://www.mickeysautosound.com/8-in...subwoofer.html

http://www.mickeysautosound.com/8-in...subwoofer.html

also I noticed that at Mickey's, all MB Quarts are 50% off, so you might want to take advantage of it to.

Coming from a car guy that has experience with both active and passives, I love tinkering stuff so I love my active setup.

Thank you to the three of you. I have so many sleepless nights already regarding this sound setup that I am planning to do. One more question is this. The bass that I wanted it to produce is loud but yet soft and has a lot of quality in it. Can I accomplish this using this drivers and amps. If I make it passive will it sound better? thanks for the help guys.

[Pajerokid29]

Thank you to the three of you. I have so many sleepless nights already regarding this sound setup that I am planning to do. One more question is this. The bass that I wanted it to produce is loud but yet soft and has a lot of quality in it. Can I accomplish this using this drivers and amps. If I make it passive will it sound better? thanks for the help guys.

As for the bass, loud is one thing, loud and clear is another, with the way you are planning things, I assume you are going for loud and clear, if that's the case you would have to let the sub do it's job, as for quality, it is going to be subjective, what sounds nice to someone might not be for another, if you want your drivers to be uniform in sounding off, you can use passive, if you want a broader spectrum of the sound range (35HZ to 25+ KHZ) and let the drivers play individual or specific sound ranges, thus maximizing their potential without stressing them, then go for active. as for quality, it's subjective. (whisphering)....go for active. hehehe

[gonzo]

Sir Bass is bass, if you want it accurate with punch go for sealed performance enclosure (enclosure volume recommendation usually comes with the sub manual) most SQ fan do this.

Kung extension ng bass hanap mo some call it gapang then ported eclosure, in a ported inclosure you can tune it with the freq you want as Pajerokid mentioned. Some install they want pressure SPL they still use ported but tune to the desired freq usually mataas ang tuning ng mga gusto ng pressure.

About passive system, if you are not the type na mahilig mag tweak and mag adjust and tuning I suggest go passive. Tuning is a skill you will aquire and will enjoy once familiar ka na kung ano ang pakikingan sa system mo.. sakit sa ulo kung di mo alam ang mga settings and surely will end up na mali

Im not discouraging you to go full active, its fun to be able to adjust your system to your liking tyagaan nga lang sir.. thats what I advice na kung di ka mahilig full active will not do you good.

My 0.02C

[xtian_joyaxx]

"Thank you to the three of you. I have so many sleepless nights already regarding this sound setup that I am planning to do. One more question is this. The bass that I wanted it to produce is loud but yet soft and has a lot of quality in it. Can I accomplish this using this drivers and amps. If I make it passive will it sound better? thanks for the help guys."

Sir sa sub you need to remember the bigger the cone area the more air it moves.. ( tika muna paki ikot po sa baso Pajerokid naghihintay si Gonzo..hehehe:juice

if want it loud like what I said earlier get the 10" kung seald lang talaga ang option.. dahil kung ang 8" ang ilagay mo sa seald baka konti lang deperensya or kasing lakas or baka maging midbass ang tunog nyan..coz if want soft but loud it is not the driver its the way you tune your enclosure.. a friend of mine single 8" DD sub in 1.75 cub/ft tuned to 32hz(ported)..sounds really amazing and clean dahil na sa proper enclosure and design.. ( saan na po yong baso..hehehe)..

and with the subs theres no need to use any passive x-over dahil kung mono-block amp ang bibilhin mo design na yan pang sub..at may mga amp na may LPF feature din kahit hindi mono-block.. again sir kung gusto mo soft and loud hindi ang driver ang maydahilan kung di ang properly design enclosure and tuning.. kung ako ang tatanongin sa gusto mo.. ma achieve yan sa 8" at sa amp mo but in a ported enclosure tuned to 32 or 33hz dependi sa TS parameters ng sub mo..

just made this recently ito ussually ang laman ng tuned enclosure pinakita ko lang para may idea ka slot design ito at may round port din na design..
( dahil ang tagal ng baso kasi...hehehe) this enclosure was tune to 33hz..yong sinabi mo na soft and loud makukuha nito na tuning.. Good luck sir! (Heeck! where's da road?..hehehhe..):juice:

[xtian_joyaxx]

Sorry po na double post..

[Pajerokid29]

Sir Bass is bass, if you want it accurate with punch go for sealed performance enclosure (enclosure volume recommendation usually comes with the sub manual) most SQ fan do this.

Kung extension ng bass hanap mo some call it gapang then ported eclosure, in a ported inclosure you can tune it with the freq you want as Pajerokid mentioned. Some install they want pressure SPL they still use ported but tune to the desired freq usually mataas ang tuning ng mga gusto ng pressure.

About passive system, if you are not the type na mahilig mag tweak and mag adjust and tuning I suggest go passive. Tuning is a skill you will aquire and will enjoy once familiar ka na kung ano ang pakikingan sa system mo.. sakit sa ulo kung di mo alam ang mga settings and surely will end up na mali

Im not discouraging you to go full active, its fun to be able to adjust your system to your liking tyagaan nga lang sir.. thats what I advice na kung di ka mahilig full active will not do you good.

My 0.02C

I Agree, not dissing either, it all boils down to your preference and the amount of time, money, effort you can invest in it, good luck with your setup!

[Mschumacher]

"Thank you to the three of you. I have so many sleepless nights already regarding this sound setup that I am planning to do. One more question is this. The bass that I wanted it to produce is loud but yet soft and has a lot of quality in it. Can I accomplish this using this drivers and amps. If I make it passive will it sound better? thanks for the help guys."

Sir sa sub you need to remember the bigger the cone area the more air it moves.. ( tika muna paki ikot po sa baso Pajerokid naghihintay si Gonzo..hehehe:juice

if want it loud like what I said earlier get the 10" kung seald lang talaga ang option.. dahil kung ang 8" ang ilagay mo sa seald baka konti lang deperensya or kasing lakas or baka maging midbass ang tunog nyan..coz if want soft but loud it is not the driver its the way you tune your enclosure.. a friend of mine single 8" DD sub in 1.75 cub/ft tuned to 32hz(ported)..sounds really amazing and clean dahil na sa proper enclosure and design.. ( saan na po yong baso..hehehe)..

and with the subs theres no need to use any passive x-over dahil kung mono-block amp ang bibilhin mo design na yan pang sub..at may mga amp na may LPF feature din kahit hindi mono-block.. again sir kung gusto mo soft and loud hindi ang driver ang maydahilan kung di ang properly design enclosure and tuning.. kung ako ang tatanongin sa gusto mo.. ma achieve yan sa 8" at sa amp mo but in a ported enclosure tuned to 32 or 33hz dependi sa TS parameters ng sub mo..

just made this recently ito ussually ang laman ng tuned enclosure pinakita ko lang para may idea ka slot design ito at may round port din na design..
( dahil ang tagal ng baso kasi...hehehe) this enclosure was tune to 33hz..yong sinabi mo na soft and loud makukuha nito na tuning.. Good luck sir! (Heeck! where's da road?..hehehhe..):juice:

I Agree, not dissing either, it all boils down to your preference and the amount of time, money, effort you can invest in it, good luck with your setup!

I agree with what both of you guys are saying. I would really wanted a ported box enclosure but my ride could only take up maximum of 8" subs unless I would sacrifice my trunk space. In this setup I will be removing my cars utility box. Should I be getting a DD sub or an ID sub which one is better? as for the crossover I would like to be using my 3 way active crossover for my 3 way dls up36 seps. Can it be done this way? thanks.

[Pajerokid29]

I agree with what both of you guys are saying. I would really wanted a ported box enclosure but my ride could only take up maximum of 8" subs unless I would sacrifice my trunk space. In this setup I will be removing my cars utility box. Should I be getting a DD sub or an ID sub which one is better? as for the crossover I would like to be using my 3 way active crossover for my 3 way dls up36 seps. Can it be done this way? thanks.

Depends on which DD you are planning to get, usually, and known to be loud, DD's though usually require a ported box. as for your X-over, what type is it? just wondering, anyway you shouldn't have any problems with it as long as you have the proper x-over points as to not damage your drivers.