Full active setup...

**gonzo** · May 16th, 2009 09:54 PM

Originally Posted by Mschumacher

Thank you sir xtian and sir pajerokid for your suggestion. I've audi some active and passive sound setup when I was in davao and I like the sound that being thrown by the full active setup. both of the unit I've audi are pajero and isang tao lang ang nagsetup. The full active has a better clarity in it, and it feels like every speaker has their own job to do giving its sound a livelier environment. that's why I wanted to go full active and a pillar setup. So its ok to use a 3 way x-over? If its ok what would you suggest?
Amps (9 channels total most probably, Is firland ok???)-
X-over-
Seps(got DSL UP36 in mind already)-
Subs (Maximum of 8" only limited space kasi, Got Image dynamics ID8V.32 in mind) -

By the way my unit is Kia Carens and has a very limited trunk space so I can't go beyond 8" in subs. and also in a very tight budget.

Sir can I comment, going full active is not a guaranty that your setup will sound the same as with the car you auditioned.

Full active - Means you are the one who will set the cutoff freq of each driver.
Pro- It gives you full control in tuning each driver (speaker)
Cons - If you are not experience enough, a mistake on cutoff frequency will damage the speaker.

3way seps- Individual driver on each freq on the musical spectrum (High/MR/Midbase)

Pro - If tune/ aim properly can give you the best tonal accuracy and balance on your system.

Con - A head ache in install and tuning. Aiming of driver is a trial and error thing since no two car is acoustically the same. Having a three way system is a double edged blade, its either you get it right and enjoy the outcome or you will totally be dis-appointed in not properly done.

I know a lot of 2 way system install that sounded much better than 3 way, same as passive setup sounding better than full active if done correctly.

Sir xtian_joyaxx is right keep it simple and the key is install and tuning not that its Full active and 3 way. Good luck

My 0.02C

**Pajerokid29** · May 18th, 2009 10:29 AM

Originally Posted by Mschumacher

Thank you sir xtian and sir pajerokid for your suggestion. I've audi some active and passive sound setup when I was in davao and I like the sound that being thrown by the full active setup. both of the unit I've audi are pajero and isang tao lang ang nagsetup. The full active has a better clarity in it, and it feels like every speaker has their own job to do giving its sound a livelier environment. that's why I wanted to go full active and a pillar setup. So its ok to use a 3 way x-over? If its ok what would you suggest?
Amps (9 channels total most probably, Is firland ok???)-
X-over-
Seps(got DSL UP36 in mind already)-
Subs (Maximum of 8" only limited space kasi, Got Image dynamics ID8V.32 in mind) -

By the way my unit is Kia Carens and has a very limited trunk space so I can't go beyond 8" in subs. and also in a very tight budget.

Here's my setup just to give you an idea:

1-set Infinity 6020 cs consists of: 2 midbass, 2 tweeters
1-set Rainbow SLC 265 consists of 2 midbass 2 tweeters
2 V12 amps
1 Hifonics Brutus amps (for subs)
2 10" Hifonics brutus subs
H/U: Pioneer 4050UB (2-way active)

Note: my H/U is 2-way active only so even though I have all my speakers wired directly to my V12's, my tweets have a capacitors in them, that I placed in it's wiring, I forgot the value, this is to block out any low frequency from going in and blowing your tweets, the mid bass though are pretty much straight-forward, I made sure though that my V12's HPF are set to ON, then adjusted my HU's HPF to 125HZ since it has its own sub control (I'm saving up for a either a Alpine CDA 9887 or Pioneer P80PRS, these are expensive full-active HU's with Time Alignment as well

)

In respect to previous posts, yes Passive and Active has it's own pros and cons, it's just a matter of taste, bugdet, and free-time for tweaking it, actually if we have a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being the best sounding, it is going to be harder to get to 10 with passive, yet much rewarding as it's more than just a install then sit-back-and-relax system as most manufacturers claim them to be, remember impedance/resistance rise as more heat is genarated? it changes the values or cut-off points of the passive's internal resistors/capacitors.

with going full active, the best way really (which I over-looked initially) is to get a full-active HU, it will save you in the long run than getting an outboard electronic crossover, since 8" sub is what your planning to use, you can get 1 4-ch amp and 1 5-ch amp connect your front stage to the 4-ch, connect your A-pillar, rear and subs to the 5 channel, Firland is a good brand, not that known but I've heard and seen them, seems OK for me, if you're already stuck with the HU that you have, then some electronic X-over you can look at are:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ar+VIBEX6.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ar+VIBEX8.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_526_Kicker+KX3.html

and of course

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...N+MODEL+-.html

for seps you can simply get 2 sets of 2-way comps and subs

DLS is a good brand, you can also get HERTZ, Rainbow, MB Quart, Morel, Focal, kung medyo budget you can try Ryan Audio, they have something that are like Focal, which also are made out of POLYGLASS, for subs if 8" na talaga then ID or these can do:

http://www.mickeysautosound.com/8-in...subwoofer.html

http://www.mickeysautosound.com/8-in...subwoofer.html

also I noticed that at Mickey's, all MB Quarts are 50% off, so you might want to take advantage of it to.

Coming from a car guy that has experience with both active and passives, I love tinkering stuff so I love my active setup.

**Mschumacher** · May 18th, 2009 07:44 PM

Originally Posted by gonzo

Sir can I comment, going full active is not a guaranty that your setup will sound the same as with the car you auditioned.

Full active - Means you are the one who will set the cutoff freq of each driver.
Pro- It gives you full control in tuning each driver (speaker)
Cons - If you are not experience enough, a mistake on cutoff frequency will damage the speaker.

3way seps- Individual driver on each freq on the musical spectrum (High/MR/Midbase)

Pro - If tune/ aim properly can give you the best tonal accuracy and balance on your system.

Con - A head ache in install and tuning. Aiming of driver is a trial and error thing since no two car is acoustically the same. Having a three way system is a double edged blade, its either you get it right and enjoy the outcome or you will totally be dis-appointed in not properly done.

I know a lot of 2 way system install that sounded much better than 3 way, same as passive setup sounding better than full active if done correctly.

Sir xtian_joyaxx is right keep it simple and the key is install and tuning not that its Full active and 3 way. Good luck

My 0.02C

Originally Posted by Pajerokid29

Here's my setup just to give you an idea:

1-set Infinity 6020 cs consists of: 2 midbass, 2 tweeters
1-set Rainbow SLC 265 consists of 2 midbass 2 tweeters
2 V12 amps
1 Hifonics Brutus amps (for subs)
2 10" Hifonics brutus subs
H/U: Pioneer 4050UB (2-way active)

Note: my H/U is 2-way active only so even though I have all my speakers wired directly to my V12's, my tweets have a capacitors in them, that I placed in it's wiring, I forgot the value, this is to block out any low frequency from going in and blowing your tweets, the mid bass though are pretty much straight-forward, I made sure though that my V12's HPF are set to ON, then adjusted my HU's HPF to 125HZ since it has its own sub control (I'm saving up for a either a Alpine CDA 9887 or Pioneer P80PRS, these are expensive full-active HU's with Time Alignment as well

)

In respect to previous posts, yes Passive and Active has it's own pros and cons, it's just a matter of taste, bugdet, and free-time for tweaking it, actually if we have a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being the best sounding, it is going to be harder to get to 10 with passive, yet much rewarding as it's more than just a install then sit-back-and-relax system as most manufacturers claim them to be, remember impedance/resistance rise as more heat is genarated? it changes the values or cut-off points of the passive's internal resistors/capacitors.

with going full active, the best way really (which I over-looked initially) is to get a full-active HU, it will save you in the long run than getting an outboard electronic crossover, since 8" sub is what your planning to use, you can get 1 4-ch amp and 1 5-ch amp connect your front stage to the 4-ch, connect your A-pillar, rear and subs to the 5 channel, Firland is a good brand, not that known but I've heard and seen them, seems OK for me, if you're already stuck with the HU that you have, then some electronic X-over you can look at are:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ar+VIBEX6.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ar+VIBEX8.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_526_Kicker+KX3.html

and of course

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...N+MODEL+-.html

for seps you can simply get 2 sets of 2-way comps and subs

DLS is a good brand, you can also get HERTZ, Rainbow, MB Quart, Morel, Focal, kung medyo budget you can try Ryan Audio, they have something that are like Focal, which also are made out of POLYGLASS, for subs if 8" na talaga then ID or these can do:

http://www.mickeysautosound.com/8-in...subwoofer.html

http://www.mickeysautosound.com/8-in...subwoofer.html

also I noticed that at Mickey's, all MB Quarts are 50% off, so you might want to take advantage of it to.

Coming from a car guy that has experience with both active and passives, I love tinkering stuff so I love my active setup.

Thank you to the three of you. I have so many sleepless nights already regarding this sound setup that I am planning to do. One more question is this. The bass that I wanted it to produce is loud but yet soft and has a lot of quality in it. Can I accomplish this using this drivers and amps. If I make it passive will it sound better? thanks for the help guys.

**Pajerokid29** · May 19th, 2009 02:20 AM

Originally Posted by Mschumacher

Thank you to the three of you. I have so many sleepless nights already regarding this sound setup that I am planning to do. One more question is this. The bass that I wanted it to produce is loud but yet soft and has a lot of quality in it. Can I accomplish this using this drivers and amps. If I make it passive will it sound better? thanks for the help guys.

As for the bass, loud is one thing, loud and clear is another, with the way you are planning things, I assume you are going for loud and clear, if that's the case you would have to let the sub do it's job, as for quality, it is going to be subjective, what sounds nice to someone might not be for another, if you want your drivers to be uniform in sounding off, you can use passive, if you want a broader spectrum of the sound range (35HZ to 25+ KHZ) and let the drivers play individual or specific sound ranges, thus maximizing their potential without stressing them, then go for active. as for quality, it's subjective.

(whisphering)....go for active. hehehe

**gonzo** · May 19th, 2009 05:19 AM

Sir Bass is bass, if you want it accurate with punch go for sealed performance enclosure (enclosure volume recommendation usually comes with the sub manual) most SQ fan do this.

Kung extension ng bass hanap mo some call it gapang then ported eclosure, in a ported inclosure you can tune it with the freq you want as Pajerokid mentioned. Some install they want pressure SPL they still use ported but tune to the desired freq usually mataas ang tuning ng mga gusto ng pressure.

About passive system, if you are not the type na mahilig mag tweak and mag adjust and tuning I suggest go passive. Tuning is a skill you will aquire and will enjoy once familiar ka na kung ano ang pakikingan sa system mo.. sakit sa ulo kung di mo alam ang mga settings and surely will end up na mali

Im not discouraging you to go full active, its fun to be able to adjust your system to your liking tyagaan nga lang sir

.. thats what I advice na kung di ka mahilig full active will not do you good.

My 0.02C

**xtian_joyaxx** · May 19th, 2009 07:10 AM

"Thank you to the three of you. I have so many sleepless nights already regarding this sound setup that I am planning to do. One more question is this. The bass that I wanted it to produce is loud but yet soft and has a lot of quality in it. Can I accomplish this using this drivers and amps. If I make it passive will it sound better? thanks for the help guys."

Sir sa sub you need to remember the bigger the cone area the more air it moves.. ( tika muna paki ikot po sa baso Pajerokid naghihintay si Gonzo..hehehe:juice

if want it loud like what I said earlier get the 10" kung seald lang talaga ang option.. dahil kung ang 8" ang ilagay mo sa seald baka konti lang deperensya or kasing lakas or baka maging midbass ang tunog nyan..coz if want soft but loud it is not the driver its the way you tune your enclosure.. a friend of mine single 8" DD sub in 1.75 cub/ft tuned to 32hz(ported)..sounds really amazing and clean dahil na sa proper enclosure and design.. ( saan na po yong baso..hehehe)..

and with the subs theres no need to use any passive x-over dahil kung mono-block amp ang bibilhin mo design na yan pang sub..at may mga amp na may LPF feature din kahit hindi mono-block.. again sir kung gusto mo soft and loud hindi ang driver ang maydahilan kung di ang properly design enclosure and tuning.. kung ako ang tatanongin sa gusto mo.. ma achieve yan sa 8" at sa amp mo but in a ported enclosure tuned to 32 or 33hz dependi sa TS parameters ng sub mo..

just made this recently ito ussually ang laman ng tuned enclosure pinakita ko lang para may idea ka slot design ito at may round port din na design..
( dahil ang tagal ng baso kasi...hehehe) this enclosure was tune to 33hz..yong sinabi mo na soft and loud makukuha nito na tuning.. Good luck sir! (Heeck! where's da road?..hehehhe..):juice:

**xtian_joyaxx** · May 19th, 2009 07:54 PM

Sorry po na double post..

**Pajerokid29** · May 20th, 2009 02:21 AM

Originally Posted by gonzo

Sir Bass is bass, if you want it accurate with punch go for sealed performance enclosure (enclosure volume recommendation usually comes with the sub manual) most SQ fan do this.

Kung extension ng bass hanap mo some call it gapang then ported eclosure, in a ported inclosure you can tune it with the freq you want as Pajerokid mentioned. Some install they want pressure SPL they still use ported but tune to the desired freq usually mataas ang tuning ng mga gusto ng pressure.

About passive system, if you are not the type na mahilig mag tweak and mag adjust and tuning I suggest go passive. Tuning is a skill you will aquire and will enjoy once familiar ka na kung ano ang pakikingan sa system mo.. sakit sa ulo kung di mo alam ang mga settings and surely will end up na mali

Im not discouraging you to go full active, its fun to be able to adjust your system to your liking tyagaan nga lang sir

.. thats what I advice na kung di ka mahilig full active will not do you good.

My 0.02C

I Agree, not dissing either, it all boils down to your preference and the amount of time, money, effort you can invest in it, good luck with your setup!

**Mschumacher** · May 20th, 2009 09:56 AM

Originally Posted by xtian_joyaxx

"Thank you to the three of you. I have so many sleepless nights already regarding this sound setup that I am planning to do. One more question is this. The bass that I wanted it to produce is loud but yet soft and has a lot of quality in it. Can I accomplish this using this drivers and amps. If I make it passive will it sound better? thanks for the help guys."

Sir sa sub you need to remember the bigger the cone area the more air it moves.. ( tika muna paki ikot po sa baso Pajerokid naghihintay si Gonzo..hehehe:juice

if want it loud like what I said earlier get the 10" kung seald lang talaga ang option.. dahil kung ang 8" ang ilagay mo sa seald baka konti lang deperensya or kasing lakas or baka maging midbass ang tunog nyan..coz if want soft but loud it is not the driver its the way you tune your enclosure.. a friend of mine single 8" DD sub in 1.75 cub/ft tuned to 32hz(ported)..sounds really amazing and clean dahil na sa proper enclosure and design.. ( saan na po yong baso..hehehe)..

and with the subs theres no need to use any passive x-over dahil kung mono-block amp ang bibilhin mo design na yan pang sub..at may mga amp na may LPF feature din kahit hindi mono-block.. again sir kung gusto mo soft and loud hindi ang driver ang maydahilan kung di ang properly design enclosure and tuning.. kung ako ang tatanongin sa gusto mo.. ma achieve yan sa 8" at sa amp mo but in a ported enclosure tuned to 32 or 33hz dependi sa TS parameters ng sub mo..

just made this recently ito ussually ang laman ng tuned enclosure pinakita ko lang para may idea ka slot design ito at may round port din na design..
( dahil ang tagal ng baso kasi...hehehe) this enclosure was tune to 33hz..yong sinabi mo na soft and loud makukuha nito na tuning.. Good luck sir! (Heeck! where's da road?..hehehhe..):juice:

Originally Posted by Pajerokid29

I Agree, not dissing either, it all boils down to your preference and the amount of time, money, effort you can invest in it, good luck with your setup!

I agree with what both of you guys are saying. I would really wanted a ported box enclosure but my ride could only take up maximum of 8" subs unless I would sacrifice my trunk space. In this setup I will be removing my cars utility box. Should I be getting a DD sub or an ID sub which one is better? as for the crossover I would like to be using my 3 way active crossover for my 3 way dls up36 seps. Can it be done this way? thanks.

**Pajerokid29** · May 21st, 2009 02:50 AM

Originally Posted by Mschumacher

I agree with what both of you guys are saying. I would really wanted a ported box enclosure but my ride could only take up maximum of 8" subs unless I would sacrifice my trunk space. In this setup I will be removing my cars utility box. Should I be getting a DD sub or an ID sub which one is better? as for the crossover I would like to be using my 3 way active crossover for my 3 way dls up36 seps. Can it be done this way? thanks.

Depends on which DD you are planning to get, usually, and known to be loud, DD's though usually require a ported box. as for your X-over, what type is it? just wondering, anyway you shouldn't have any problems with it as long as you have the proper x-over points as to not damage your drivers.