How to Make a Silver or White Car Shiny

[_Cathy_]

What is the best wax to bring out the shine on a silver car?

I am currently using Microtex Nanoglos and Nanosliq and it's hard for me to bring out the shine in my car. I am not into hardcore detailing and I really don't want to invest too much on detailing stuff. I have the Microtex applicator pad, 1 ultra plush, 1 plush and 2 ultra cloths.

I am deciding between Collonite 845 and Collonite 476 as it has good reviews on Amazon. However I have no idea on how difficult or easy it is to apply any of these wax. I need something that would bring out the shine in my car in a quick and easy manner (less paraphernalia and procedures). TIA.

[monty_GTV]

What is the best wax to bring out the shine on a silver car?

I am currently using Microtex Nanoglos and Nanosliq and it's hard for me to bring out the shine in my car. I am not into hardcore detailing and I really don't want to invest too much on detailing stuff. I have the Microtex applicator pad, 1 ultra plush, 1 plush and 2 ultra cloths.

I am deciding between Collonite 845 and Collonite 476 as it has good reviews on Amazon. However I have no idea on how difficult or easy it is to apply any of these wax. I need something that would bring out the shine in my car in a quick and easy manner (less paraphernalia and procedures). TIA.

before you can bring out the shine, you should have your paint surface cleaned and prepared. washing alone cannot get rid of the contaminants in the paint surface so you need to clay it, then to remove swirl marks and scratches, you need to polish it. but since you like to do it in an easy manner (less paraphernalia and procedures as you said) then maybe you end up just washing it

to give you an idea of the waxes you mentioned,

Collinite Car Wax Products, Collinite Wax, Insulator Wax, collinite 845, collinite double coat

collinite 845 or liquid insulator wax is easier to apply by hand or by machine. it is a wax on wax off type of wax so you can buff it off as soon as you apply it. on a properly prep paint surface, it shines!

collinite 476 is a paste wax and quite hard to remove. the technique is to apply it as "thin" as possible and buff panel by panel. the advantage of 476 is its durability, it can stand many washes and last longer.

why not try collinite 915 instead? it's also a paste wax, less durable than 476 but its easier to apply and remove/buff. I use it on my silver Vios and i'm happy with the shine. I highly recommend it

enjoy your detailing session ma'am c4u...

[helloladies143]

wow..thanks!!

[_Cathy_]

Here's what I used last weekend:

[venerzky]

Here's what I used last weekend:

Wow. A gallon of BWW. Pwede bang makabili ng tingi? Hehehe. Masubukan naman yan. Hehe.

[_Cathy_]

I just wash then proceed with waxing. Is claying necessary before using collinite? I will go for the 845 instead because I stay away from products that is anywhere near as hard to buff off as turtle wax. Sakit sa katawan :rant:

Also polish is different from wax pa?

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[jhnkvn]

Naks, I admire the dedication to the car Ma'am C4U kaya pala madami naiinlove sa inyo ha :naughty2: Hihihihi..

1. Okay, a wax is simply more of trying to make the car color's "pop". However, most of the beauty you see is the result of careful paint preparation.

2. The usual routine is to: Wash -> Clay -> (Correction Stage) -> (Cleaning stage) -> (Sealant/Wax/LSP stage). The difference between 3-step and 2-step exterior detailing is that 3-step uses compounding to remove swirls and scratches more aggressively while a 2-step detail uses a polish to lessen and reduce most swirls.

3. There's really no problem in simply waxing the car for protection. But since most detailers are pretty OC, we recommend going through the routine to make the most out of it.

4. A polish removes minor imperfections and evens out the surface area (lessens minor scratches, swirls, etc.) while a wax's main duty is to protect the vehicle all while improving the paint (ex. improve reflectivity, 'deeper' color, etc.).

5. As you're a girl, I'll try to relate this to makeup. Think of polishes as concealers and wax as the make-up. Cleaners is like..washing your face before applying makeup while claying is like a foundation primer. (No worries, I live in a family of 5 girls so yeah..)

6. I won't be recommending 915 because of the price it entails. It's a costs a hefty 50% more than the Collinite 845. If the paint's white or silver, carnauba's added "depth" isn't going anywhere on silver and white panels. For being newbie-friendly, I suggest you go for the Collinite 845 as a beginner.

7. I first suggest availing yourself of a 2-step detailing process at your suking detailer. Inquire about their products and their steps on how they do it to get a first-hand information on the detailing process. Plus, you get to see how they do it to boot!

8. Personally, I avail myself of claying and polish/compound services at my suking detailer on the premise that (1) I am lazy (2) I don't have a machine to do the job more efficiently.. and (3) yeah, laziness.

9. From a newbie-standpoint, you can say the Collinite 845 is kinda like a souped-up Nanoglos. They practically serve the same intention except the Nanoglos is for short-term use (its durability is short-lived usually a week versus the 845's two-month-long protection)

[_Cathy_]

Naks, I admire the dedication to the car Ma'am C4U kaya pala madami naiinlove sa inyo ha :naughty2: Hihihihi..

1. Okay, a wax is simply more of trying to make the car color's "pop". However, most of the beauty you see is the result of careful paint preparation.

2. The usual routine is to: Wash -> Clay -> (Correction Stage) -> (Cleaning stage) -> (Sealant/Wax/LSP stage). The difference between 3-step and 2-step exterior detailing is that 3-step uses compounding to remove swirls and scratches more aggressively while a 2-step detail uses a polish to lessen and reduce most swirls.

3. There's really no problem in simply waxing the car for protection. But since most detailers are pretty OC, we recommend going through the routine to make the most out of it.

4. A polish removes minor imperfections and evens out the surface area (lessens minor scratches, swirls, etc.) while a wax's main duty is to protect the vehicle all while improving the paint (ex. improve reflectivity, 'deeper' color, etc.).

5. As you're a girl, I'll try to relate this to makeup. Think of polishes as concealers and wax as the make-up. Cleaners is like..washing your face before applying makeup while claying is like a foundation primer. (No worries, I live in a family of 5 girls so yeah..)

6. I won't be recommending 915 because of the price it entails. It's a costs a hefty 50% more than the Collinite 845. If the paint's white or silver, carnauba's added "depth" isn't going anywhere on silver and white panels. For being newbie-friendly, I suggest you go for the Collinite 845 as a beginner.

7. I first suggest availing yourself of a 2-step detailing process at your suking detailer. Inquire about their products and their steps on how they do it to get a first-hand information on the detailing process. Plus, you get to see how they do it to boot!

8. Personally, I avail myself of claying and polish/compound services at my suking detailer on the premise that (1) I am lazy (2) I don't have a machine to do the job more efficiently.. and (3) yeah, laziness.

9. From a newbie-standpoint, you can say the Collinite 845 is kinda like a souped-up Nanoglos. They practically serve the same intention except the Nanoglos is for short-term use (its durability is short-lived usually a week versus the 845's two-month-long protection)

Thanks for the comprehensive reply! I also love the make up analogy. I am into make up din kasi

How much does it cost to get exterior detailing and how long does it take? Is there any good detailer at Makati or Paranaque? Maybe I could have my car detailed just once if the cost isn't too high.

I prefer to do the detailing myself because it would be cheaper for me to have my own stuff in the long run. I also find satisfaction in waxing my car myself as I subscribe to the saying na, "If you wan't it done well, do it yourself" hehe. Minsan kasi nahihiya ako pumuna so most of the time I am not happy with the result when done by others

Based on the feedback, I will just order the Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845 and applicator. So can I just go straight from washing the car then applying collinite 845?

I am thinking of buying Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System but is it safe for someone who absolutely has no experience on claying to DIY? Or is it something that I best let the professionals handle? I did damage my car's paint before (red) as I applied too much rubbing compound :hammer: My white car is extremely stained already.

Also, is a polish necessary? if so, what is a good brand? Liquid Glass LG-100 Ultimate Auto Polish/Finish is very popular on Amazon.

[stickers]

5. As you're a girl, I'll try to relate this to makeup. Think of polishes as concealers and wax as the make-up. Cleaners is like..washing your face before applying makeup while claying is like a foundation primer. (No worries, I live in a family of 5 girls so yeah..)

The best way a girl could relate about paint protection. :2thumbsup:

wash it properly first...

and i was like staring at this for a minute before i got my senses back. :naughty2:

Same with you C4U Nano-products lang din gamit ko and I think its a bit late now to shift to other products without getting a professional detailing first.

[_Cathy_]

Same with you C4U Nano-products lang din gamit ko and I think its a bit late now to shift to other products without getting a professional detailing first.

Oh why. So I can't just switch from microtex to collinite without getting professional detailing?

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[jhnkvn]

Thanks for the comprehensive reply! I also love the make up analogy. I am into make up din kasi

How much does it cost to get exterior detailing and how long does it take? Is there any good detailer at Makati or Paranaque? Maybe I could have my car detailed just once if the cost isn't too high.

I prefer to do the detailing myself because it would be cheaper for me to have my own stuff in the long run. I also find satisfaction in waxing my car myself as I subscribe to the saying na, "If you wan't it done well, do it yourself" hehe. Minsan kasi nahihiya ako pumuna so most of the time I am not happy with the result when done by others

Based on the feedback, I will just order the Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845 and applicator. So can I just go straight from washing the car then applying collinite 845?

I am thinking of buying Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System but is it safe for someone who absolutely has no experience on claying to DIY? Or is it something that I best let the professionals handle? I did damage my car's paint before (red) as I applied too much rubbing compound :hammer: My white car is extremely stained already.

Also, is a polish necessary? if so, what is a good brand? Liquid Glass LG-100 Ultimate Auto Polish/Finish is very popular on Amazon.

Always remember that detailing services is where most of a detailer's profits comes in so it's where most of the patong is. Exterior detailing usually comes in "steps" and is simply explained as:

Step 1: Cleaner + Wax/Sealant
Step 2: Polish + Cleaner + Wax/Sealant
Step 3: Compound + Cleaner + Wax/Sealant

The difference between Step 2 and Step 3 is the amount of abrasion it will do to level your clear coat. For example, if you have a deep enough scratch.. a polish won't conceal it that much but a compound will. In my previous post, I liken it to a concealer.. and it functions very much the same. Do you have flawless skin or do you have a large ugly acne problem?

Prices range from Php1,500 to 2,500 usually for Step 2 detailing while Step 3 may go from Php2,000 to Php3,500. Big Berts charges Php2,300 for theirs while my favorite detailer, Bluemile, charges me around Php1,500 for it pre-discount. I usually clay at Big Berts (it's cheap there) while I do my Step 2 at Bluemile (it's cheaper there).

For Makati detailers, the more well-known ones are Hillsborough Detailers. Their Step 2 is also known as their "Quick Paint Makeover" I believe and costs around Php1,800-2,000. My favorite detailer near the area is Antricks Detailing in Petron, Filmore while I was still attending DLSU before. Sadly, I can't remember their price-list na but knowing myself, I don't fall for expensive pricing schemes.

And yes, you may go from washing your car to applying Collinite #845. It isn't a "full detail" but it works well enough if you're more concerned about protection rather than shine/gloss (which is achieved by having a good paint preparation). Remember to apply the stuff thinly.. think: barely visible.

I will not recommend DIY claying since claying is usually done just once a year. The Mother's Gold Clay Bar package is good as long as you have the discipline to use it all. More often than not, people won't consume the entire thing. The two clay bars included is enough to clay 6 small cars (6 years on an annual use basis) or 4 medium cars if you're quite wasteful. The reason why I do not recommend to newbies is that if they accidentally clay an asphalt residue.. it'll stick to the clay and you'll scratch the paint or you might also pickup small rocks which will do the same.

Tip: If you do buy it and run out of Mothers Showtime as a lubricant for the clay, you can clay while using the car shampoo as an alternative lubricant. So that's wash -> rinse -> wash -> clay -> wash.

A polish is only needed when you need to level the paint to remove light scratches such as swirl marks. Doing it properly will effectively remove the scratches (remove.. not only hide it in the case of a glaze). However, as it still has abrasives, proper application is still necessary.

[Densker]

I just wash then proceed with waxing. Is claying necessary before using collinite? I will go for the 845 instead because I stay away from products that is anywhere near as hard to buff off as turtle wax. Sakit sa katawan :rant:

Also polish is different from wax pa?

Sent from my GT-P3100 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Hey guys, sinong gusto mag volunteer? Tulungan nyo naman daw si mam mag detail ng car nya pag may time kayo.

1. Masakit sa katawan - wash and wax lang si cathy, kayo na bahala gumawa ng ibang steps.

2. Does not want to invest/spend - so bring all your detailing stuff to her place.
Pag tapos na, si cathy na lang bahala sa mirienda, lunch or maybe dinner.

:D

Seriously, ipa-professional detail mo na mam pag hindi ka na satisfied sa outcome ng pag wash and wax mo.

[7138]

My first ride is a White car,
and when i sold it, i bought a Silver car.

Both car i used the old school turtle wax hard shell paste wax.
For a cheap wax, very satisfied ako sa results, basta manipis na manipis lang ang apply,
yung "basta lang mapahiran" technique, hindi mahirap tanggalin.

Before applying anything, ang first step ko is a professional detailing done, para may fresh surface akong aalagaan,
and from there, every month na ako nag aapply ng wax, still, up to know, parang newly detailed ang itsura ng ride ko.

[indiej]

yes, white and silver cars just need the same detailing as dark cars. lucky if you have the darker silvers. they're not gonna pop like blacks or reds because all the light and glare is reflected unlike dark colored cars that don't reflect glare as much. To see this, check the reflection of the sun on a silver vs. black. Can stare for a bit on black paint but not on silver. Evenso, detailed light colored cars are still noticeably reflective than neglected or improperly washed ones.

[blackmamba58]

Ok na bang tandem ang ONR for wash + Collinite 845?

What do you suggest I use to remove bits of dirt that cling on the car? (Dito ba pumapasok ang rubbing compound or clay? Hehe. New to detailing din)
Also, what product is good to remove watermarks (after rain) on windshields and glass?

I also have a white car. I wanted to make the most shine when I clean it. Hehehe.

Thanks!

[vicman17]

I just wash then proceed with waxing. Is claying necessary before using collinite? I will go for the 845 instead because I stay away from products that is anywhere near as hard to buff off as turtle wax. Sakit sa katawan :rant:

Also polish is different from wax pa?

Wash then Clay is necessary to prep the surface if you really want to use the wax to its full potential. You can still do without Claying but you are waxing over the contaminants that are stuck into the clearcoat.

Polish should only be used if you had some Correction done (swirl removal using Machine Buffer/ Polisher).
Polish by hand just adds unecessary work, best done by with a machine.
Polish also only hides swirl marks if a machine was not used to remove them properly.

If you want just the "Easy Way", go old school and buy liquid Cleaner Wax and do a "Wipe on- Wipe off" method. aka Mr Miyagi's 'Wax on Wax Off'
Apply wax with a sponge applicator on one hand and the Buffing cloth/ Microfiber on the other right away without letting it dry.
Letting the wax harden is indeed 'hard' work. Paste Wax is harder to remove than Liquid Wax which is technically in paste in diluted form.

Any self-respecting detailer or car guy will tell you to stay away from Turtle Wax.

[gearguru]

Tama boss. One thing with microtex products that i dont like is the smell. I believe nanosil was not included because it works best with polisher? E considering that the owner is a lady, baka mahirap masyado kapag by hand lang ang application ng nanosil.

One get optimum results with a polisher but applying it by hand is still workable. And it's not that hard to buff off

[greatauror28]

It is more tedious to make your silver car so shiny if you don't have buffing tools like a polisher.
It is very doable but set aside time, say whole weekend morning.

This is what I did to my car after winter: Car Wash>Claying>Polishing>Waxing

Products are: Meguiar's Gold Shampoo, Mother's Clay Bar System, Meguair's Ultimate Polish and Meguiar's Gold Class carnauba wax.

I used an 8" buffer with white pad and this is the result:

[jhnkvn]

The difference between machine and hand application on the Nanosil isn't what we call negligible. Using a machine is a huge jump in the swirl-filling quality.

Nanosil works as a cleaner and a glaze. It isn't a polisher.. it's simply a supercharged glaze wherein it conceals swirl marks and light scratches by "filling" them up. And thanks to its filling action, if you're doing it by hand, you'll be applying more elbow grease than usual to break up the fillers. Definitely not recommended to a lady.

For most people, I would still recommend a polish or a compound (depending on how heavy the scratches are) because they level the paint to completely remove scratches rather than concealing them as compared to Nanosil.

Technically, Nanosil IS an all-in-one (AIO). It cleans and it protects. Durability will be around a week or so I believe in our rainy conditions.

Actually, the reason why I didn't go for OCW is because... 845 wins hands-down. There's actually a trick behind it. The price difference is justified once you factor in the jump in durability the #845 offers you (a month versus a week for the OCW). The trick is to move the #845 into a spray bottle. Problem is, you need to make sure it's in liquid form and not in its more paste-y form.

To do this, simply heat up the #845 by placing it under hot water or just let it bake in the sun for a couple of minutes. You then transfer it into a spray bottle then spray panel 1 -> spray panel 2 -> buff panel 1 -> spray panel 3 -> buff panel 2 -> and so on. However, the downside to this is that #845 MAY jam the sprayer so better clean it well afterwards. And if you're going to be using it again, better let it bake outside on the sun while you go prep your stuff

So yes, for an additional hundred pesos (and a sprayer), I'll have an awesome spray wax that will last me longer than OCW. Of course, OCW is still technically easier to apply since you don't need to buff it (spray -> spread using MF towel) but over the long run, #845 still trumps it in bang-per-buck ;)

[_Cathy_]

I just bought Collinite 845. I am thinking of a good cleaner wax.