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  1. Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    512
    #661
    Quote Originally Posted by rico_g View Post
    I've been reading a thread in Megs about sheeting vs beading...

    Hydrophobic (sheeting) vs. Hydroscopic (beading)

    http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...php/t-152.html

    share ko lang...


    I have a question though, while beading does look cool, I'd really like a product that sheets... a lot of people say that OCW sheets water well... it does when using a hose with no nozzle...

    Question is... is it possible for my car's surface to be so hydrophobic that it can actually let raindrops to slide off... Is there a powerful enough product out there that can sheet rain? or is that even possible?
    Idol... meroon.... me city ako nakita naka ganoon...... pag hinipan nalalaglag tubig...... lupit!!!! pogi yung owner nun city... BIGTYM!!!! abang abang ka lang me lilitaw na product dito

  2. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #662
    I finally had the time to upload some of the pictures of my BF's detail along with the help of some of the forumers here namely, PSI ( LATE! ) <== as per special request to be mentioned as late from my BF, Matt, Rockstar, and Watusi.

    I then followed the next day and helped my BF to finish the polishing process, this was really hard since some area's especially those infested with watermarks were in need of another pass of compound and some even needed wet sanding

    Car condition before the detail

    Before shots

    Paint is oxidized



    Has tons of deeply etched mineral and acid rain water spots



    Lack of DOI or no reflection



    While the heavily etched waterspots were prominent on the roof, hood and trunk

    the side panels had swirls galore



    Last edited by madkatz; November 13th, 2010 at 07:43 PM.

  3. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #663
    Goal is to get a really wet look

    so our basis is

    a wet trunk hood and roof, and we'll try to mimic the look







    Weapon of choice for the job



    Last edited by madkatz; November 13th, 2010 at 07:45 PM.

  4. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #664
    50/50 shots







    Focus point on the scratch and defects



    And focus point is on the flood light brand

    Last edited by madkatz; November 13th, 2010 at 07:38 PM.

  5. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #665
    after shots











    Tires were cleaned and dressed after, it was running late and there was already no sun during the time the shot was made so we immediately took pictures
    Last edited by madkatz; November 13th, 2010 at 07:41 PM.

  6. Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    358
    #666
    *madkatz
    Hi maam! Awesome job by your bf! Car looks brand new again.
    I'm quite concerned though with the deeply etched minerals and waterspots.
    I have a lot too with my oldest car, especially on the roof.
    What specific product and process did your bf do in taking care of those etches? Thanks maam

  7. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #667
    Quote Originally Posted by kafph2000 View Post
    *madkatz
    Hi maam! Awesome job by your bf! Car looks brand new again.
    I'm quite concerned though with the deeply etched minerals and waterspots.
    I have a lot too with my oldest car, especially on the roof.
    What specific product and process did your bf do in taking care of those etches? Thanks maam
    nice post number above hehehe just kidding

    what we did was give the roof a pass with Ultimate Compound with a LC cutting pad at speed 5, this basically eliminated 80% of the water spots, my Bf then hit the area's with water spots again with a rotary polisher, wool pad and some Optimum Compound II, after checking with IPA wipe, i then wet sanded the remaining waterspots with 3000grit sandpaper with ONR as lubricant, and then we finished with Optimum Polish II, we chose this method so that we don't go the harsh route in removing defects as we always encourage, try to use the least aggressive method first as we've already tried at least a dozen combinations, generally with using Megs UC and yellow pad on a PC setting of 5, the only marks remaining are very faint but since i was OC enough i insisted we totally remove the water marks since leaving them might actually still cause damage towards the paint, the minerals and chemicals can still be activated once it gets wet so we opted to remove them totally. its not yet documented but we have noticed that once waterspots are not removed and once the minerals become wet with water once again the minerals can be activated to continue to etch the paint further so we believe with water marks is necessary to remove them ASAP, getting rid of them would give you less of a problem in the future.

  8. Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    2,238
    #668
    Wow ang kintab and swirl free! Pwede bang pang finishing polish na din yung Poliseal?

  9. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #669
    Quote Originally Posted by jmpet626 View Post
    Wow ang kintab and swirl free! Pwede bang pang finishing polish na din yung Poliseal?
    yup you could use Poli-seal as a finishing polish and it will refine the surface but it won't be as good as a pure finishing polish which has more cut and can handle very light holograms and add gloss better, one thing that would tell you if a finishing polish is good would be if the color would deepen, you would get good results with poli-seal but better with Optimum Finish or Po85rd or 106FA

  10. Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    358
    #670
    Quote Originally Posted by madkatz View Post
    nice post number above hehehe just kidding

    what we did was give the roof a pass with Ultimate Compound with a LC cutting pad at speed 5, this basically eliminated 80% of the water spots, my Bf then hit the area's with water spots again with a rotary polisher, wool pad and some Optimum Compound II, after checking with IPA wipe, i then wet sanded the remaining waterspots with 3000grit sandpaper with ONR as lubricant, and then we finished with Optimum Polish II, we chose this method so that we don't go the harsh route in removing defects as we always encourage, try to use the least aggressive method first as we've already tried at least a dozen combinations, generally with using Megs UC and yellow pad on a PC setting of 5, the only marks remaining are very faint but since i was OC enough i insisted we totally remove the water marks since leaving them might actually still cause damage towards the paint, the minerals and chemicals can still be activated once it gets wet so we opted to remove them totally. its not yet documented but we have noticed that once waterspots are not removed and once the minerals become wet with water once again the minerals can be activated to continue to etch the paint further so we believe with water marks is necessary to remove them ASAP, getting rid of them would give you less of a problem in the future.
    Aw, didn't notice that. Nice number indeed.

    So I guess Megs UC with a PC did most of the job and of course, professional skills. I stopped with megs scratchx 2.0 before because I quite lacked confidence to try an aggressive polish on my own.
    With the process you enumerated, I might really need to have the professionals handle my problem. Are you guys doing that for free?

  11. Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    21,343
    #671
    Ang sarap dilaan nung paint!

    Excellent job for Sir Ed!

    I'm not worthy! he he he

  12. Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1,279
    #672
    Very impressive work!!! Hats off for those involved in the project.

  13. Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    512
    #673
    EY>>>> no fair..... 10PM usapan biglang naging 3PM......
    better stick with the aswang session......hmmmmmmm

  14. Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    164
    #674
    Quote Originally Posted by PSI View Post
    EY>>>> no fair..... 10PM usapan biglang naging 3PM......
    better stick with the aswang session......hmmmmmmm
    aswangan detailing! game!

  15. Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    4,642
    #675
    Bosing PSI pa-text naman ako kung kailan next EB.

    Wag lang aswangan di ako papayagan nun hehe.

  16. Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    2,238
    #676
    Pwede bang sumama sa detailing eb?

  17. Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    164
    #677
    game EB time! it's time i get the twins!

  18. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #678
    Quote Originally Posted by kafph2000 View Post
    Aw, didn't notice that. Nice number indeed.

    So I guess Megs UC with a PC did most of the job and of course, professional skills. I stopped with megs scratchx 2.0 before because I quite lacked confidence to try an aggressive polish on my own.
    With the process you enumerated, I might really need to have the professionals handle my problem. Are you guys doing that for free?
    Hmmm i have an idea, why don't you volunteer your car if ever they are going to tackle machine polishing, that way you get the service for free but of course we're still not sure on how far we could finish in one day, we'll probably continue the project car some other day or some other weekend, of course it will be used to teach other newbies on how to polish paint but of course with the guidance of Ed, as far as i know there are already some regulars here that are also familiar with machine polishing that can help out

  19. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #679
    Quote Originally Posted by Starex_Gold View Post
    Ang sarap dilaan nung paint!

    Excellent job for Sir Ed!

    I'm not worthy! he he he
    Aww cmon! you've had your fair share of awesome details as well!

  20. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #680
    Quote Originally Posted by jmpet626 View Post
    Pwede bang sumama sa detailing eb?
    Of course! and why not? Ed already knows you, and its open to everyone thats willing to learn about detailing

Detailing Thread [For Newbies][continued 2]