New and Used Car Talk Reviews Hot Cars Comparison Automotive Community

The Largest Car Forum in the Philippines

Page 1 of 8 12345 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 80
  1. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    13,415
    #1
    Ask away. I'll do my best to answer em...

    Please make your questions concise and worth reading. Sometimes, questions like "is Brand X the best wax? or anything "the best product" is a waste of time to answer.

    Second, if you've asked the same question on another board (like kotse or AI, HCP etc) don't repeat it here.

    Also, ask if you've done a search already hehe.

  2. #2
    theveed: I don't know if anyone asked you this but here goes,

    In the "BigBerts, me rainy season promo ba ulit this year?" thread you said that you guys no longer offer "Engine Wash"... why? and what is your alternative service? Engine detailing ba? TIA.

  3. Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    857
    #3
    Veed I have a lot of swirl marks on my car. I usually use it kasi for out of town trips so when I get back to Manila the car is really soiled. I'm too tired to clean my car by then so I just ask the maids to clean it. Problema, parang niliha nila. I have a buffing machine. Do you mind if you tell us what pads to use and the product to go with it. Your shop kasi is too far from me to bring my car kaya DIY muna.

  4. Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    209
    #4
    Theveed: I have a lot of questions... Ehehehe

    1) When layering carnauba (non cleaner/non synthetic like mom's phase 3) is it ok to apply the second layer as soon as I buff off the first one? I read somewhere that carnauba cures immediately and takes only a short time to flash.

    2) I'm having trouble drying my car with the Microtex Plush (pink one). Even if I do the open hose technique (which leaves my car aroun 70% dry). The problem is that the towel absorbs water like a magnet but once it is saturated (or semi saturated) its very difficult to wring the water out and a lot of it stays in the towel so when I use it again, it actually leaves a trail of water rather than absorbing. I'm thinking of getting the Microtex suede or the Microtex chamois. Would those be better? Also, do you have the "Elite" towels available?

    3) My new car now has light swirls (daily driver). I was thinking of using 3m Machine Glaze with by B&D ROP and a waffle pad. I read in Autopia that PFIII Machine Glaze is a light abrasive. Some say however, that MG is actually a medium polish. Any ideas? I'm thinking of using it as a regular polish, around every three months but I'm scared I'm gonna be removing a lot of my clear coat.

    4) I could not find much information on SOFT99's KIZZ Clear. I'm interested on trying it since I've read (I think it was your post) that it is similar to AIO. Is it any good? I was thinking of using it with fusso as a cheap alternative to the Klasse twins.. If ever, do I apply it the same way as AIO? (japanese instructions). Also, would topping fusso with carnauba be ok?

    5) I'm now thinking (just thinking) of getting some of the premium waxes (I have a few relatives coming back later this year from the states.Matagal pa.. Ehehehe) My main candidates are P21S and/or Zaino. I'm just confused. Is S100 different from P21S? I could not find S100 in any online store anymore but I think it is cheaper than P21S.. Also, can Zaino be topped by carnauba?

    6) Back on layering, if for example I only get to apply another layer the next day and the car is already covered with dust, is it ok if I just CCD it then QD then apply the wax?

    7) I've read somewhere that misting a pad with QD prior to using it as an applicator (via rop or via hand) helps in applying thin even coats of wax. Does this only apply to paste wax (since I think Zaino instructions suggest a damp pad sprayed with Z6).. Doesn't this affect the wax's bonding capability?




    Sorry for all the questions! Thanks in advance!

    Last edited by patopig; July 5th, 2005 at 01:10 AM.

  5. Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    1,306
    #5
    theveed,

    ask ko lang kung anong tools kelangan ko bilhin for paint detailing, balak ko kasi bumili ng black and decker na orbital buffer, kelangan ko pa ba ng rotary polisher? saan at anong buffer pads ang kelangan?

    also, pinakamabilis mag watermark ang hood and roof, what hand wax can you recommend? ang gamit ko ngayon is 3M High Gloss, and kapahon na-try ko yung Mothers Premuim Wax .. halos pareho lang sila for me, pero nakakapagod na, gusto ko na ng gumamit ng tools hehe..

    thanks

  6. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    13,415
    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by zeagle
    Veed I have a lot of swirl marks on my car. I usually use it kasi for out of town trips so when I get back to Manila the car is really soiled. I'm too tired to clean my car by then so I just ask the maids to clean it. Problema, parang niliha nila. I have a buffing machine. Do you mind if you tell us what pads to use and the product to go with it. Your shop kasi is too far from me to bring my car kaya DIY muna.
    O Vince! hehe, alin dun? yung Xtrail mo a Trooper?

    With the machine kasi, if you have a rotary, I suggest you practice with an old car first, extremely easy to burn through paint if dumulas kamay mo or something... Kung orbital then here's what you can do...

    1) Visit ka sa PAD (http://groups.msn.com/pinasdetailing) and check out the tool section.
    2) In most cases, a polishing or cutting pad would work with an orbital. Apply a little around the pad and apply medium pressure for the polish.
    3) Product, depende sa problem dude eh. But if you're not interested with doing it the hard way, grab some Meguiar's 66 cleaner wax and it will do most of the job by itself. Then wax by hand afterwards with a standalone wax or sealant.

    Naiintindihan kita hehe yun din dahilan ko kung baket di ko nadadala sa Denso oto ko dati, layo eh :P

    BTW, nandito si GM ulit, just got back last thurs, nag getogether sa bar ni Baloy...

  7. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    13,415
    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by patopig
    Theveed: I have a lot of questions... Ehehehe

    1) When layering carnauba (non cleaner/non synthetic like mom's phase 3) is it ok to apply the second layer as soon as I buff off the first one? I read somewhere that carnauba cures immediately and takes only a short time to flash.
    Technically, you're not layering carnauba, the new "layer" merely fills in gaps that are left out from the first application. Waxes dont cross bond to older layers, so it really can't stay on top of a fresh layer of wax that much.

    It's totally pointless to apply a second layer of wax before the first layer hardens, so wait at least 6-8hrs before applying the second "layer". Curing, flashing and hardening... different things.

    2) I'm having trouble drying my car with the Microtex Plush (pink one). Even if I do the open hose technique (which leaves my car aroun 70% dry). The problem is that the towel absorbs water like a magnet but once it is saturated (or semi saturated) its very difficult to wring the water out and a lot of it stays in the towel so when I use it again, it actually leaves a trail of water rather than absorbing. I'm thinking of getting the Microtex suede or the Microtex chamois. Would those be better? Also, do you have the "Elite" towels available?
    Well, the terry weaves are not the best for drying, hence they came out with the chamois, Plush and UP are best for lightly damp use for scrubbing or cleaning. Get the Chamois.

    The Elites should be out by August, we'll post it in our online store as soon as it arrives. We usually have the first batches anyway.

    3) My new car now has light swirls (daily driver). I was thinking of using 3m Machine Glaze with by B&D ROP and a waffle pad. I read in Autopia that PFIII Machine Glaze is a light abrasive. Some say however, that MG is actually a medium polish. Any ideas? I'm thinking of using it as a regular polish, around every three months but I'm scared I'm gonna be removing a lot of my clear coat.
    Trust me, you can use that for decades and you wont be removing any significant amount of clear. Don't worry about it. But I'd still prefer to fill in light swirls rather than removing it in a regular basis.

    4) I could not find much information on SOFT99's KIZZ Clear. I'm interested on trying it since I've read (I think it was your post) that it is similar to AIO. Is it any good? I was thinking of using it with fusso as a cheap alternative to the Klasse twins.. If ever, do I apply it the same way as AIO? (japanese instructions). Also, would topping fusso with carnauba be ok?
    Well, it's not like AIO (did I say it was? if I did, then I'm a little wrong) since Kizz doesn't have cleaners and it dries into a hard poly coat. You apply it like a sealant, very thin layers, let dry, remove, cure for half a day or so, then apply sealant.

    I don't advice people topping off sealants with wax if what you're after is durability. Waxes will almost always lessen the sealant's ability to protect. But if looks are what you're after, then go right ahead.

    5) I'm now thinking (just thinking) of getting some of the premium waxes (I have a few relatives coming back later this year from the states.Matagal pa.. Ehehehe) My main candidates are P21S and/or Zaino. I'm just confused. Is S100 different from P21S? I could not find S100 in any online store anymore but I think it is cheaper than P21S.. Also, can Zaino be topped by carnauba?
    S100 can be found in any online car store, but you must click on their respective Motorcycle sections.

    Regarding Z, read my post above. Also, unless you're going to invest on Z shampoo and QD, dont bother.

    6) Back on layering, if for example I only get to apply another layer the next day and the car is already covered with dust, is it ok if I just CCD it then QD then apply the wax?
    Yes, if it's light.

    7) I've read somewhere that misting a pad with QD prior to using it as an applicator (via rop or via hand) helps in applying thin even coats of wax. Does this only apply to paste wax (since I think Zaino instructions suggest a damp pad sprayed with Z6).. Doesn't this affect the wax's bonding capability?
    Experiment, applying QD on Meg 26 is a total nightmare. It's totally unnecessary with most waxes anyway. Sealants benefit more on this technique than waxes.

    Second question: No.

    Sorry for all the questions! Thanks in advance!

    Please send a check for P1000 for your queries :D

  8. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    13,415
    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by revoGSX
    theveed,

    ask ko lang kung anong tools kelangan ko bilhin for paint detailing, balak ko kasi bumili ng black and decker na orbital buffer, kelangan ko pa ba ng rotary polisher? saan at anong buffer pads ang kelangan?

    also, pinakamabilis mag watermark ang hood and roof, what hand wax can you recommend? ang gamit ko ngayon is 3M High Gloss, and kapahon na-try ko yung Mothers Premuim Wax .. halos pareho lang sila for me, pero nakakapagod na, gusto ko na ng gumamit ng tools hehe..

    thanks
    With machines, until you know what each machine is supposed to do, learn how to do it right by hand first or you'll just be wasting money.

    Go to PAD as well.

    Waxes tend to look the same if the surface is not prepped. You must prep the paint first. Learn the basics in PAD.

  9. Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    1,640
    #9
    Theveed,

    Panu ba linisin o pakintabin ang mga Stainless Bull bars?? a panu tangalin yung itim na dumi dulot ng muffler sa stainless tubular also? Thanks.

    WBR, ;)

  10. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    13,415
    #10
    The muffler, you might want to find out what those stains are first.

    If it's tar or undercoating material, kerosene would work.

    For the bullbar, they're just stainless steel, right? any metal polish would work. Use cotton to apply and polish, use a cotton towel to buff to gloss. Wax it afterwards to preserve.

Page 1 of 8 12345 ... LastLast
Detailing Basics and FAQs list.