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  1. Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    171
    #21
    Ok po yan grabe nagulat nga ako nakita ko pinapamunas na ng mga gamit sa bahay yung MF cloth ko! Ganda daw kasi tangal daw yung alikabok. Tapos yung cali duster ko nakita ko pinanglinis ng salamin sa bintana! waaaaaaa

  2. Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    4,642
    #22
    Quote Originally Posted by mau2485 View Post
    Ok po yan grabe nagulat nga ako nakita ko pinapamunas na ng mga gamit sa bahay yung MF cloth ko! Ganda daw kasi tangal daw yung alikabok. Tapos yung cali duster ko nakita ko pinanglinis ng salamin sa bintana! waaaaaaa
    patay tayo dyan
    anyways magkano po yung Zwipes? more or less P200?

  3. Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    4,642
    #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Mile2 View Post
    I have these MF towel with 2 free applicator pad, the MF towel is color orange and the 2 applicator foam pads covered with MF is white, but never use these pads because I always intend to use clean and fresh cloth when applying wax and I don't want to spend more time cleaning applicator pads afterward. I would just spend time cleaning MF towels (washing and boiling them) rather than cleaning hardened applicator pads.

    My Innova is Dark Grey Metallic AKA Night Mist and swirl marks would be very visible on dark colored paints but I don't see them on my car.

    BTW, how do you guys clean your applicator pads? or do you use them without cleaning it first?
    Sir Mile2 what is the purpose po of boiling? Is it to remove the wax residue on the MF towel? gaano po katagal bino-boil?

  4. Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    171
    #24
    Yup less 200php. Cleaning MF cloth? perla lang ang katapat nyan! di na kailangan iboil

  5. Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    1,553
    #25
    After reading, i bought 2 sets of the said Zwipes and i would agree it is quite good in terms of softness and quality. The MF is quite large and the applicator is also nice. I am however disappointed with the drying towel, it doesn't absorb as much water and its a bit rough. Has Anyone tried this Drying towel by Zwipes?

    *Chickselog: they boil towels to remove wax residue, waxes melt away with hot water and usually settles either above or below the towels once cooled. If your wax is not that strong or not that thick then try using Joy first followed with perla. For softer waxes i just use Joy for the first wash to remove most waxes since Joy is known for removing waxes thats why its not a good idea to substitute that for car shampoo, its sure to strip the wax, and then wash it again with perla to make sure its doubly clean and rinse with water. As for those stubborn paste waxes especially the Collinite Double coat which is detergent proof, i just pour freshly boiled water over the towels and add some joy, move it around and remove them while still hot and wash with perla. Using hot water can greatly help in removing waxes. And in certain cases where polishes and waxes have already hardened boiling it would be a good idea since boiling also move the towels around like a mini washing machine. But in most cases Joy then perla or even perla could already to the trick.

    If anyone has ever tried any of Collinite's products especially the 476 double coat, im sure they would also agree its a pain to remove, heck i tried using joy and tide and my towel is still water repellant hahaha even my hands repel water.

    Zwipes 2 MF applicator pads with MF towel go for 149.75 at Ace North Edsa, the drying towel goes for 249.75 same place.

    Oh yeah if you're a bit short with MF cloths since i think you plan on doing Moms 3 step, you could try High Gear MF towels, they sell for 99.75 in handyman for 2 pcs 16x16, i got a few more a while ago since a new robinsons opened near novaliches and its on promo buy 2 take 1, so its a good deal, 6 towels for 199.50, but be sure to wash them first before using them on the car, they have strong dyes when first used and can cause discoloration when washed with some other cloths

  6. Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    2,238
    #26
    same lang ba yung procedure pag sa pang linis ng Lake Country buffing pads? Gamit ko kasi pang linis lang ng buffing pads ko eh dish washing liquid. Tanggal naman ung wax

  7. Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    176
    #27
    Quote Originally Posted by jmpet626 View Post
    same lang ba yung procedure pag sa pang linis ng Lake Country buffing pads? Gamit ko kasi pang linis lang ng buffing pads ko eh dish washing liquid. Tanggal naman ung wax
    In my experience, mas ok yung effectiveness ng MicroRestore Microfiber Detergent pag nililinisan ko yung mga applicators, microfiber towels, and LC pads.

    But... I have also tried dishwashing liquid. I've just used this to clean my applicators, towels and pads from my detail this last weekend. It seems like it also does the job. Napansin ko lang na di siya mabilis magtanggal ng mga wax or polish residue and dirt compared to the MicroRestore. You need to work in the dishwashing liquid more bago matanggal ang residue and dirt from the pads.

    Hope this helps.

  8. Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    2,320
    #28
    Quote Originally Posted by madkatz View Post
    After reading, i bought 2 sets of the said Zwipes and i would agree it is quite good in terms of softness and quality. The MF is quite large and the applicator is also nice. I am however disappointed with the drying towel, it doesn't absorb as much water and its a bit rough. Has Anyone tried this Drying towel by Zwipes?
    Hi, Just fold the towel into 2 folds and you'll have 8 sides of drying towel, just put the towel on top of your wet car without wiping and let it absorb then move to another section. When one side of your towel is already soaked go to the other fold. MF towel is more safe to use in dying as against those silicon blades.


    try High Gear MF towels, they sell for 99.75 in handyman for 2 pcs 16x16, i got a few more a while ago since a new robinsons opened near novaliches and its on promo buy 2 take 1, so its a good deal, 6 towels for 199.50, but be sure to wash them first before using them on the car, they have strong dyes when first used and can cause discoloration when washed with some other cloths
    Will try to check this MF towel tonight

    BTW, I'm using synthetic wax NUFinish.

  9. Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    577
    #29
    in cleaning mf or wax applicators, i just use what's available power detergent at home. i believe my wife purchases t*d*. mas madali marinse ang powder compared to bar. water temp is tap water.

    just put ample amount of water in a bucket and mix powdered detergent. key is is dapat nakanaw ng husto at wala ng buo buo. kuskus lang ng kuskus - i always hand wash my car cleaning cloths.

    sa banlawan naman, just do it as if you are washing your clothes. dapat wala ng bula ang pinagbabanlawang tubig. wring then air dry.

    i always wash after every use.

  10. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #30
    *jmpet626: i clean my LC pads with an old toothbrush first to remove the solid particles. I also put the speed on high for both rotary and ROP and the lightly push the brush against the pad. this helps in removing the majority of the solid parts. After that i get another brush and soak the LC pads with a strong concentration of joy and brush the foam till it looks like new again. I dry by putting the pad back and spinning off the excess water and final drying with a blower. You could also get Snappy Clean pad cleaner, i got mine from the distributor for about 200 for 3 sachets. 1 sachet can clean about 3 8.5 inch LC pads.

    *jon: hey there! haven't seen you post for a long time. Where did you get your MF detergent? is it available locally?

    *mile2: i tried that last night already, i also did the pat dry and slide dry method and it still doesn't work. i've noticed that its like a bit repellant of water. Do you have to totally soak this drying towel with water to prep it up before using on the paint?

    Oh yeah remember to wash the cheap MF towels first with mild detergent to remove the dyes before using it on paint or before washing it with other lighter colored fabrics. The dark blue cloth slightly stained my microtex chamois and microtex plush. I opened a new one and washed it first then dumped it again along with some stained items to check for color staining and its gone. i guess you really just have to remove the dyes. Oh yeah one last thing, where did you buy your Nu Finish Synthetic Wax? as far as i know its still not locally available, i've been trying to get my hands to test that wax since it has lots of good reviews, if you know a local source lemme know pls..

  11. Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    135
    #31
    I got my MF at S&R. The brand is PROFORCE, it contains 24pcs MF at Php900+ so its Php41 per MF. They also have 36pcs MF.

    It has somehow of 2 side design, one side has a thicker fiber, the other one has finer fibers.

    Great for drying and waxing.


  12. Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    2,320
    #32
    Quote Originally Posted by madkatz View Post
    Oh yeah one last thing, where did you buy your Nu Finish Synthetic Wax? as far as i know its still not locally available, i've been trying to get my hands to test that wax since it has lots of good reviews, if you know a local source lemme know pls..
    Got it from Canada together with NuFinish Scratch Doctor pack.

  13. Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    4,642
    #33
    I finally bought the Zwipes for 149.75 * Ace SM San Lazaro.. I was surprised by the size of the MF towel, it's bigger than the Microtex Plush.. The applicators are kinda small but at the same time quite soft.. I will try to do the Claying + 3step Moms tomorrow siguro or baka this weekend.. sana hindi umulan

    *madkatz
    Thanks po! For now I'll use the Step 1 to achieve maximum results since it's my first time doing the claying + the complete 3 steps on our Vios..Before, I only did step 2 and 3..

    According to sir testament and sir SG (on the other thread that I've made), it's okay to use car shampoo instead of QD as the clay's lubricant, for practicality purposes.. Siguro I'll make sure na lang na lubricated ang surface ng mabuti to avoid scratches and more swirls..

    BTW, sorry OT, pag nagc-clay po ba paano ang galaw ng clay on the paint? pa horizontal ba na isang direction lang?

  14. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #34
    *KinKyHOOTER: which S&R branch did you get that from? thats a good deal! especially since im looking for low cost MF towels, i called up S&R and they said they no longer carry it, maybe you could tell me which branch i could find one? and when i called them up and asked the price its more of 1200+ for the 24 packs and 1600 for the 36 packs, all they have right now is the ultra soft Mf towels that sells for 1300 for 24 packs

    all in all i think the one in handy man is cheaper because of you buy 10 packs you get 5 more for free, each pack has 2 pcs so that makes it 30 pcs for 1k pesos, but then again im quite sure that proforce would be made of better quality materials so im really thinking of getting some

    *Mile2: Any reviews on Nu Finish Synthetic Wax? Is it really as durable as they say it is? O yeah i tried to use the Zwipes Drying Towel again, and its quite good, i guess you really have to soak it up and wet it thoroughly then wring it before you use it, for 250 bucks its really cheap compared to its performance

  15. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #35
    *chickselog: Yup it is ok to use shampoo and water as a lubricant for claying, and then just keep the QD that comes with the kit for those times that you need a quick touch up and a quick fix. Just remember to make your shampoo + water solution stronger, meaning put more shampoo solution to make it lubricate the paint better.

    As for your question regarding how to clay, i sort of do it in a M or W pattern meaning i generally stroke the clay towards one direction and back moving slowly left or right. As to whether horizontal or vertical, what i do is i glide the clay towards how the wind would pass by the car and pass by the paint panels. so for the hood thats front to back for the doors and side panels thats horiztonal, as for the back i just do a horizontal pattern, this way if you pick up small debris while claying and in the very VERY small chance that you do induce scratches it would not make swirls, it would be in a straight line and pretty much invisible in most angles. O yeah try to put newspaper on the ground, but if its wet get a garbage bag and put some weight to hold it in place. there would be times when the clay would suddenly stop in the paint and pushing it would fling the clay away, so be very careful in handling the clay, dropping a clay on the floor would spell bad news either you throw it away or get a tweezer and pluck out the large debris. Once you get a hang of claying you can clay next time without the garbage bag, the garbage bag is just there to make it safer, i remember the first time i clayed i think i dropped it 3x hahaha see clay really sticks and stops once it goes over a rough spot.

  16. Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    176
    #36
    Quote Originally Posted by madkatz View Post
    *jon: hey there! haven't seen you post for a long time. Where did you get your MF detergent? is it available locally?

    Hi.

    I got the MicroRestore gallon from Autogeek, almost 2 years ago.

    I think it's not locally available yet. I hope it would be locally available soon, as it's really good in cleaning microfiber towels, applicators, and pads.

    How are your orders from Autogeek, by the way?

  17. Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    4,642
    #37
    Quote Originally Posted by madkatz View Post
    *chickselog: Yup it is ok to use shampoo and water as a lubricant for claying, and then just keep the QD that comes with the kit for those times that you need a quick touch up and a quick fix. Just remember to make your shampoo + water solution stronger, meaning put more shampoo solution to make it lubricate the paint better.

    As for your question regarding how to clay, i sort of do it in a M or W pattern meaning i generally stroke the clay towards one direction and back moving slowly left or right. As to whether horizontal or vertical, what i do is i glide the clay towards how the wind would pass by the car and pass by the paint panels. so for the hood thats front to back for the doors and side panels thats horiztonal, as for the back i just do a horizontal pattern, this way if you pick up small debris while claying and in the very VERY small chance that you do induce scratches it would not make swirls, it would be in a straight line and pretty much invisible in most angles. O yeah try to put newspaper on the ground, but if its wet get a garbage bag and put some weight to hold it in place. there would be times when the clay would suddenly stop in the paint and pushing it would fling the clay away, so be very careful in handling the clay, dropping a clay on the floor would spell bad news either you throw it away or get a tweezer and pluck out the large debris. Once you get a hang of claying you can clay next time without the garbage bag, the garbage bag is just there to make it safer, i remember the first time i clayed i think i dropped it 3x hahaha see clay really sticks and stops once it goes over a rough spot.
    Thanks again ma'am! If I have the time tomorrow morning I think I'll start na..Tingin nyo po kaya siya ng let's say, 3 hours? BTW, how long do you leave the step1,2,3 on the paint before buffing off?

  18. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #38
    *jon: aww thats sad, i guess im back to snappy clean then hahaha, well my orders just got shipped to my friends house 2 days ago, i got a PC 7424XP to replace my KP600, some MF bonnets, some LC CCS pads, Megs m135 (FINALLY!!) Klasse twins 1 liter, Collinite 915 and 476, Megs M21 and some Megs polish gallons, all in all it costed me around 500$, so for now im kinda still nervous since its my first time to order online and first time to buy something that expensive and have it shipped. I just hope the customs don't harass me.

    I just got a BnD wp1300 fitted with a Screw type 7" backing pad specially customized for wp1300 all for only 4300pesos sort of a disposable rotary, i bought some paint panels from impound shops and started to practice rotary buffing with TW polishes and i can't wait to get my hands on the M80 to M85 i ordered. Have you tried M105 and M205?

    Question, When you ordered from autogeek, did they ship it to your house or did you have to claim it at the customs or post office? And when you have a relative bring it over here through a balik bayan box, does it get stuck in customs/post office? or it all depends on the courier?

    Last Question, Im planning on buying another batch from autogeek as a Xmas present for me and my BF, im planning on filling up a balikbayan box and have it sent here, so far im about half way full, but still a lot of spaces inside, Can you recommend any good items from autogeek? I don't care what category they fall into but im more particular and fond of waxes, polishes, QD, and Sealants. im asking because im sure you have tried a whole lot more products than i have and i would'nt want to blind pick some items purely based on whats written on their label or how they are advertised since we know most products get so much hyped.


    *Chickselog: Hmmm if you're quite energetic and have good endurance, you could probably finish it in 3 hours, but thats with little to no rest. I can do a whole car doing the ff.

    1. Vacuum
    2. Remove stuffs from the car
    3. wash tires
    4. wash tire wells
    5. wash body
    6. dry
    7. remove asphalt
    8. re-wash
    9. clay
    10. rinse
    11. re-dry
    12. dress trims
    13. dress tires
    14. apply step 1
    15. apply step 2
    16. apply step 3
    17. apply water repellant on windows
    18. wipe down with QD and inspection after a few hours of letting the LSP cure properly.

    all these manually would take me about 5 hours nonstop, 6 hours with rest and snacks. and just about 3 hours if i have a friend to help me. But since you're a guy im sure you have a stronger arm and have better endurance than me so i think you can finish it in 3 hours since you also have fewer steps to go through

    As for Step 1, what i do is apply in a paint panel and work the cleaner, then apply it again in another paint panel and work the cleaner again, so by now you have 2 paint panels with worked in cleaners, i then buff out the first one and apply a cleaner to the next panel, buff out the second panel and apply another panel so on and so forth, you get the picture. No waiting time

    As for Step 2, what i do is apply it and work it to the whole car and remove everything, start with the first panel you applied and in the same order, also no waiting time

    As for Step 3, i do the same as Step 2, Apply it to the whole car and then buff off the whole car, but take note, i only do this if i use mothers Step 3 since they're really easy to remove, if i use other products as LSP i usually do the same with Step 1 especially those LSP's that are a pain to remove.

    I Hope this helps

    o yeah, try to post some pictures! im kinda interested on your results! Good luck!

  19. Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    4,642
    #39
    Quote Originally Posted by madkatz View Post
    *Chickselog: Hmmm if you're quite energetic and have good endurance, you could probably finish it in 3 hours, but thats with little to no rest. I can do a whole car doing the ff.

    1. Vacuum
    2. Remove stuffs from the car
    3. wash tires
    4. wash tire wells
    5. wash body
    6. dry
    7. remove asphalt
    8. re-wash
    9. clay
    10. rinse
    11. re-dry
    12. dress trims
    13. dress tires
    14. apply step 1
    15. apply step 2
    16. apply step 3
    17. apply water repellant on windows
    18. wipe down with QD and inspection after a few hours of letting the LSP cure properly.

    all these manually would take me about 5 hours nonstop, 6 hours with rest and snacks. and just about 3 hours if i have a friend to help me. But since you're a guy im sure you have a stronger arm and have better endurance than me so i think you can finish it in 3 hours since you also have fewer steps to go through

    As for Step 1, what i do is apply in a paint panel and work the cleaner, then apply it again in another paint panel and work the cleaner again, so by now you have 2 paint panels with worked in cleaners, i then buff out the first one and apply a cleaner to the next panel, buff out the second panel and apply another panel so on and so forth, you get the picture. No waiting time

    As for Step 2, what i do is apply it and work it to the whole car and remove everything, start with the first panel you applied and in the same order, also no waiting time

    As for Step 3, i do the same as Step 2, Apply it to the whole car and then buff off the whole car, but take note, i only do this if i use mothers Step 3 since they're really easy to remove, if i use other products as LSP i usually do the same with Step 1 especially those LSP's that are a pain to remove.

    I Hope this helps

    o yeah, try to post some pictures! im kinda interested on your results! Good luck!
    I will post pics ASAP, I really hope I can finish it in time cause I have to go somewhere before 3pm..AND, I hope that it won't rain! I'll add the application of ArmorAll on the interior..I will do it thoroughly without "missing a spot" as much as possible, gusto ko mag mukhang bnew yung kotse, hehe OC.. though kung di kakayanin tomorrow, este later, sa weekend na lang siguro para I have the whole day..

    Thank you so much ma'am madkatz! :thankyou: hehe super detailed po lahat ng sagot ninyo sa mga tanong ko..Thanks so much again and Godbless po! Goodluck sa mga bibilhin nyo from autogeek

  20. Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    176
    #40
    Quote Originally Posted by madkatz View Post
    *jon: aww thats sad, i guess im back to snappy clean then hahaha, well my orders just got shipped to my friends house 2 days ago, i got a PC 7424XP to replace my KP600, some MF bonnets, some LC CCS pads, Megs m135 (FINALLY!!) Klasse twins 1 liter, Collinite 915 and 476, Megs M21 and some Megs polish gallons, all in all it costed me around 500$, so for now im kinda still nervous since its my first time to order online and first time to buy something that expensive and have it shipped. I just hope the customs don't harass me.

    I just got a BnD wp1300 fitted with a Screw type 7" backing pad specially customized for wp1300 all for only 4300pesos sort of a disposable rotary, i bought some paint panels from impound shops and started to practice rotary buffing with TW polishes and i can't wait to get my hands on the M80 to M85 i ordered. Have you tried M105 and M205?

    Question, When you ordered from autogeek, did they ship it to your house or did you have to claim it at the customs or post office? And when you have a relative bring it over here through a balik bayan box, does it get stuck in customs/post office? or it all depends on the courier?

    Last Question, Im planning on buying another batch from autogeek as a Xmas present for me and my BF, im planning on filling up a balikbayan box and have it sent here, so far im about half way full, but still a lot of spaces inside, Can you recommend any good items from autogeek? I don't care what category they fall into but im more particular and fond of waxes, polishes, QD, and Sealants. im asking because im sure you have tried a whole lot more products than i have and i would'nt want to blind pick some items purely based on whats written on their label or how they are advertised since we know most products get so much hyped.


    *Chickselog: Hmmm if you're quite energetic and have good endurance, you could probably finish it in 3 hours, but thats with little to no rest. I can do a whole car doing the ff.

    1. Vacuum
    2. Remove stuffs from the car
    3. wash tires
    4. wash tire wells
    5. wash body
    6. dry
    7. remove asphalt
    8. re-wash
    9. clay
    10. rinse
    11. re-dry
    12. dress trims
    13. dress tires
    14. apply step 1
    15. apply step 2
    16. apply step 3
    17. apply water repellant on windows
    18. wipe down with QD and inspection after a few hours of letting the LSP cure properly.

    all these manually would take me about 5 hours nonstop, 6 hours with rest and snacks. and just about 3 hours if i have a friend to help me. But since you're a guy im sure you have a stronger arm and have better endurance than me so i think you can finish it in 3 hours since you also have fewer steps to go through

    As for Step 1, what i do is apply in a paint panel and work the cleaner, then apply it again in another paint panel and work the cleaner again, so by now you have 2 paint panels with worked in cleaners, i then buff out the first one and apply a cleaner to the next panel, buff out the second panel and apply another panel so on and so forth, you get the picture. No waiting time

    As for Step 2, what i do is apply it and work it to the whole car and remove everything, start with the first panel you applied and in the same order, also no waiting time

    As for Step 3, i do the same as Step 2, Apply it to the whole car and then buff off the whole car, but take note, i only do this if i use mothers Step 3 since they're really easy to remove, if i use other products as LSP i usually do the same with Step 1 especially those LSP's that are a pain to remove.

    I Hope this helps

    o yeah, try to post some pictures! im kinda interested on your results! Good luck!
    madkatz - PM sent, as response will be OT in this thread

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