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  1. Join Date
    Oct 2012
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    27,624
    #1
    Quote Originally Posted by travajante View Post
    Are lower temp thermostats available for Hyundais, sir?

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    i didnt check bro. onlt stock components for me [emoji16]

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    Last edited by StockEngine; March 30th, 2018 at 12:16 AM.

  2. Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    #2
    Quote Originally Posted by StockEngine View Post
    i didnt check bro. onlt stock components for me [emoji16]

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    OE thermostats are generally designed to open late for temperate regions to hasten engine & cabin heating on cold months. Cold starts & delayed heating are unhealthy for the engine. But...we're in the tropics w/ terrible traffic that cancel that concern. Having lower temp thermostats could help a bit in our conditions. Those units w/ resistor controlled multi-speed fans can also be tweaked to run on high all the time when the ECU calls for low. The engine, & the people inside the car will appreciate these tropic traffic cooling mods....just sharing some unsolicited proven unconventional cheats.[emoji4]

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  3. Join Date
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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by travajante View Post
    OE thermostats are generally designed to open late for temperate regions to hasten engine & cabin heating on cold months. Cold starts & delayed heating are unhealthy for the engine. But...we're in the tropics w/ terrible traffic that cancel that concern. Having lower temp thermostats could help a bit in our conditions. Those units w/ resistor controlled multi-speed fans can also be tweaked to run on high all the time when the ECU calls for low. The engine, & the people inside the car will appreciate these tropic traffic cooling mods....just sharing some unsolicited proven unconventional cheats.[emoji4]

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    we will see when this engine fails. its at 250,000. i will change in a year or so.

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  4. Join Date
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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by StockEngine View Post
    we will see when this engine fails. its at 250,000. i will change in a year or so.

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    250k. Few expect Koreans to go overtime. Looks to have given your money back twice over.[emoji4]That actually says more about the owner than the car. Grats, sir![emoji106]

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  5. Join Date
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by travajante View Post
    250k. Few expect Koreans to go overtime. Looks to have given your money back twice over.[emoji4]That actually says more about the owner than the car. Grats, sir![emoji106]

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
    its actually the car. no rust and the paint thickness is good. i just change fluids at the right intervals. i need new rear shocks again. I might reach 400,000km before i let this go. no resale value now [emoji28]

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  6. Join Date
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by StockEngine View Post
    its actually the car. no rust and the paint thickness is good. i just change fluids at the right intervals. i need new rear shocks again. I might reach 400,000km before i let this go. no resale value now [emoji28]

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    The car needs the care. You're too modest & kind, good sir.[emoji4] I've seen not a few die young with owners deflecting more blame on badge choice than themselves & their poor habits.[emoji17]

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  7. Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    1,181
    #7
    Ok pa kaya water pump ko? Kinunan ko ng video while the engine is at operating temp with the rad cap open.


  8. Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    4,725
    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by suysuy View Post
    Ok pa kaya water pump ko? Kinunan ko ng video while the engine is at operating temp with the rad cap open.

    looks ok naman... no bubbles or traces of oil? nag palit ka na ba ng radiator? yung OEM? sabay mo na din palitan yung rad cap

  9. Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by yapoy86 View Post
    looks ok naman... no bubbles or traces of oil? nag palit ka na ba ng radiator? yung OEM? sabay mo na din palitan yung rad cap
    Yup new radiator and coolant mix of 50/50. No bubbles din and oil. So head gasket leak is not in the equation i guess. Worried lang kasi ako bakit always 100c above yung coolant temp ko according sa obd port. But temp gauge sa dash is below 1/2.

    Update: heater mode is not hot. It’s cold. Baka may air pocket or stuck thermostat? When i rev the engine it gets hot but then goes cold again at idle. Thermostat or water pump?

  10. Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    #10
    Update:

    replaced thermostat
    replaced radiator cap


    still overheating. check water pump tomorrow. I'm almost certain it's the water pump already. Might be the impeller. wala na atang naiwang impeller. Puros rust kasi yung thermostat pagtanggal. Wala na, it's really the waterpump. Hay masakit to sa bulsa.

  11. Join Date
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    #11
    Old water pump.



    New water pump.



    More often than not, water pump talaga ang salarin sa overheating. Ended up replacing the radiator (well due narin naman talaga for replacement) thermostat and radiator cap. Water pump pala ang sira. Pero ok lang at least my cooling system is top notch again.

    GMB water pump 2,800 bili ko. Not bad. Magandang brand na raw ito.

  12. Join Date
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by suysuy View Post
    Old water pump.



    New water pump.



    More often than not, water pump talaga ang salarin sa overheating. Ended up replacing the radiator (well due narin naman talaga for replacement) thermostat and radiator cap. Water pump pala ang sira. Pero ok lang at least my cooling system is top notch again.

    GMB water pump 2,800 bili ko. Not bad. Magandang brand na raw ito.
    Ubos yung impeller.. usually pinapalitan ang water pump sa timing belt change.. gmb is a good brand.. pinalitan mo na din sana ng oem gasket..

    After a month or on next maintenance, drain mo ulit coolant mo to make sure na malinis ang cooling system.. medyo rusty na based in your old water pump

  13. Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    1,587
    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by suysuy View Post
    Old water pump.



    New water pump.



    More often than not, water pump talaga ang salarin sa overheating. Ended up replacing the radiator (well due narin naman talaga for replacement) thermostat and radiator cap. Water pump pala ang sira. Pero ok lang at least my cooling system is top notch again.

    GMB water pump 2,800 bili ko. Not bad. Magandang brand na raw ito.
    Grats at nabawasan sakit ng ulo mo![emoji16]
    Saan mo napagawa ang water pump replacement?


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  14. Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by JJB View Post
    Grats at nabawasan sakit ng ulo mo![emoji16]
    Saan mo napagawa ang water pump replacement?


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    Sa Casa lang. bumili lang ako ng parts sa labas.


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  15. Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    6,452
    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by travajante View Post
    OE thermostats are generally designed to open late for temperate regions to hasten engine & cabin heating on cold months. Cold starts & delayed heating are unhealthy for the engine. But...we're in the tropics w/ terrible traffic that cancel that concern. Having lower temp thermostats could help a bit in our conditions. Those units w/ resistor controlled multi-speed fans can also be tweaked to run on high all the time when the ECU calls for low. The engine, & the people inside the car will appreciate these tropic traffic cooling mods....just sharing some unsolicited proven unconventional cheats.[emoji4]

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
    A bit of caution here:

    Most thermostats starts opening at around mid-70-80°C and are completely open by around 90°C. Most engines' optimum operating temp ranges between 95-105°C. There's no need to replace the thermostat unless it is defective. Using a replacement part that opens at a colder range will not solve a cooling system fault that is caused by something else. Besides, making this mod will more likely than not prolong warm up times for that engine.

    Also, tweaking the radiator fans to always spin at high speeds (even if the ECU is requesting low) will likely shorten their life. You could end up with dead radiator fans in the middle of a trip..... and then you're really in a mess.

  16. Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by oj88 View Post
    A bit of caution here:

    Most thermostats starts opening at around mid-70-80°C and are completely open by around 90°C. Most engines' optimum operating temp ranges between 95-105°C. There's no need to replace the thermostat unless it is defective. Using a replacement part that opens at a colder range will not solve a cooling system fault that is caused by something else. Besides, making this mod will more likely than not prolong warm up times for that engine.

    Also, tweaking the radiator fans to always spin at high speeds (even if the ECU is requesting low) will likely shorten their life. You could end up with dead radiator fans in the middle of a trip..... and then you're really in a mess.
    Both true. Never touch what ain't broke.....As cars age, stuff deteriorate....& there's always that temptation to keep expenses low on old cars that have already depreciated next to 0 value.
    You still have to know your car well before doing these specific tweak options. Having a full time gauge, which I always opt for, helps the behavior observation. A lower temp thermostat in our conditions won't delay reaching optimum op temps long, though. They will still be operating at their designed normal if the system is healthy. It can however delay calling the fan in, which should help the fan life a tiny bit.
    On fans, I'd only service those that lost the low....to simply squeeze out whatever life remains from the OE. They mostly can outlive hobo replacements anyway. Depending on make, OE fan motors run on high when AC is on....& AC is almost always on in our kinda use. My recommendation, always, is once that low resistor dies.... be ready w/ a new 1 in your parts bin whenever you can. It's not uncommon to see those who did still find the new fan in his storage w/ the car long gone to a new owner.[emoji4]

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  17. Join Date
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by travajante View Post
    Both true. Never touch what ain't broke.....As cars age, stuff deteriorate....& there's always that temptation to keep expenses low on old cars that have already depreciated next to 0 value.
    You still have to know your car well before doing these specific tweak options. Having a full time gauge, which I always opt for, helps the behavior observation. A lower temp thermostat in our conditions won't delay reaching optimum op temps long, though. They will still be operating at their designed normal if the system is healthy. It can however delay calling the fan in, which should help the fan life a tiny bit.
    On fans, I'd only service those that lost the low....to simply squeeze out whatever life remains from the OE. They mostly can outlive hobo replacements anyway. Depending on make, OE fan motors run on high when AC is on....& AC is almost always on in our kinda use. My recommendation, always, is once that low resistor dies.... be ready w/ a new 1 in your parts bin whenever you can. It's not uncommon to see those who did still find the new fan in his storage w/ the car long gone to a new owner.[emoji4]

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    Not meaning to start a debate, but yes, it will delay the fan operation for a total of... get ready for it..... once per engine warm up. In all practical sense, it doesn't help. Once the engine gets to optimum temperature, the thermostat remains open until the engine is turned off and allowed to cool.

    Using resistors as a means to control the radiator fan speed seems like a bad idea. A/C cabin blowers that uses this type of speed control have the power resistors installed downwind of the blown A/C air... to cool them. Despite that, they still burn out and fail. Much more when subjected to the kind of temperature in the engine compartment.

    Anyway, most modern cars use a less wasteful method of controlling radiator fan speed. On Hondas for example, they have a network of relays that routes the electricity to the two fans to control their speed. For low, both fans are connected in series, in which each fan receives approx. 6V DC. If the ECU asks for full speed, the fans are connected in parallel and each fan receives full 12V DC.

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  18. Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by oj88 View Post
    Not meaning to start a debate, but yes, it will delay the fan operation for a total of... get ready for it..... once per engine warm up. In all practical sense, it doesn't help. Once the engine gets to optimum temperature, the thermostat remains open until the engine is turned off and allowed to cool.

    Using resistors as a means to control the radiator fan speed seems like a bad idea. A/C cabin blowers that uses this type of speed control have the power resistors installed downwind of the blown A/C air... to cool them. Despite that, they still burn out and fail. Much more when subjected to the kind of temperature in the engine compartment.

    Anyway, most modern cars use a less wasteful method of controlling radiator fan speed. On Hondas for example, they have a network of relays that routes the electricity to the two fans to control their speed. For low, both fans are connected in series, in which each fan receives approx. 6V DC. If the ECU asks for full speed, the fans are connected in parallel and each fan receives full 12V DC.

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    Not meaning to either, sir. I've seen a few boasting of tweaked thermos fully open...thinking they've 1 less part to worry about. It's their car.
    Different makes do stuff slightly differently. On older euros, they use resistors & relays on single fans....& divas as they are, those are the 1st to go w/ the fan motor having so much left to serve. Nippons do em better...almost always, they perfect what the euros intro.[emoji4]

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