Question: How much more will you pay?

[EVO-V]

I've been reading quite a bit from everyone here with regards to their radiator problems and finding the whole rationale for replacement and service a bit arbitrary.

Often the solutions employed by people are constrained by cost. But I do wonder when the discussion about rational value starts considering the price of convenience and peace of mind.

The reason why I'm asking these questions is that I suspect a lot of people decide not necessarily out of which is cheapest or easier, but because of habits. Which may or many not necessarily be a good thing. But I think it would be helpful to find out.

These are the typical scenarios for a typical 8-10 year old car in replacing a radiator (it may be applicable for other parts as well):

A) Replacement Aluminum Radiator from China P4500 with no warranty.
B) OEM Aluminum replacement radiator P13000 with 6 months warranty.
C) Local aftermarket Copper Brass replacement radiator P8500 with 6 months warranty.
D) Local aftermarket Copper Brass replacement radiator P6500 with no warranty.
E) Surplus radiator "covertion" P2500 with service warranty.
F) Premium aftermarket replacement radiator P13,000 with 1 year warranty.

So the question is, what do folks here consider more important?

[yapoy86]

maganda ipalit yung local copper brass.. mas matibay yan...

nakakita na ako ng converted na aluminum radiator.. ok naman basta magaling yung gagawa...

[dr. d]

copper is nice... easier to repair than aluminum.. but i'd get the warrantied one.

[EVO-V]

copper is nice... easier to repair than aluminum.. but i'd get the warrantied one.

How much better perceived is a product with a 12 month warranty than one with only 6 month and one with none?

[1997]

I will choose surplus original... or if budget permits Original brandnew... the plastic top radiator have its purpose... its like your cooling system's fuse...

[glenn manikis]

I will choose surplus original... or if budget permits Original brandnew... the plastic top radiator have its purpose... its like your cooling system's fuse...

why sir? pls. elaborate.....

[crazy_boy]

why sir? pls. elaborate.....

ang alam ko kasi sir, if nag overheat, unang bibigay yung plastic top. if metal top na, CH na agad bibigay.

[dumschmuck]

Id get the aluminum aftermarket if the budget would allow it.

wag lang yung sobrang laki na masyado from stock specs ha.

[glenn manikis]

ang alam ko kasi sir, if nag overheat, unang bibigay yung plastic top. if metal top na, CH na agad bibigay.

sir dba ang unang bibigay or lalabas ang water eh sa rad. cap...

then sir before pa bumigay yung plastic, yung pangdikit or yung water sealant muna ang unang bibigay..

AFAIK iisa lang naman ang gamit nilang sealant or pandikit dun....

IMO maplastic or aluminum or copper may required min. and max. PSI din po yun...

[EVO-V]

The "fuse" is your radiator cap and your overflow to the reservoir.

[EVO-V]

Id get the aluminum aftermarket if the budget would allow it.

wag lang yung sobrang laki na masyado from stock specs ha.

What if you can get a radiator that drops in and gives up up to 3x the performance?

[dr. d]

How much better perceived is a product with a 12 month warranty than one with only 6 month and one with none?

of course we all like the longer 12 month warranty. but are we willing and/or able to pay the extra money for it? you simply can not get blood from rock, no matter how hard you squeezed it.. so, we compromise.
i came to my answer in the questionnaire, based on the first part of statement C, after it was tempered by the second part of the same statement. i simply want the most radiator for my money..
now... if anyone can provide us an analysis of radiators vis a vis cost, lifespan, and warranty... i'm all ears.

[EVO-V]

Normally the argument is that a manufacturer will only warrant their product relative to their average mean failure rate.

If a product has a %age of failure that falls within set period by the manufacturer they will only go as far as that.

Meaning if the part fails shortly after the warranty period, you're pretty much screwed yet the manufacturer still has a pretty high quality rating.

Otherwise a really good product doesn't cost a manufacturer that much more to warrant statistically.

[niky]

A good radiator should have an average lifespan of several years, but replacement radiators are often put into cars with already compromosed cooling systems. The warranty means the manufacturers expect your busted-ass vehicle to overheat again within the year.

[vinj]

I
These are the typical scenarios for a typical 8-10 year old car in replacing a radiator (it may be applicable for other parts as well):

A) Replacement Aluminum Radiator from China P4500 with no warranty.
B) OEM Aluminum replacement radiator P13000 with 6 months warranty.
C) Local aftermarket Copper Brass replacement radiator P8500 with 6 months warranty.
D) Local aftermarket Copper Brass replacement radiator P6500 with no warranty.
E) Surplus radiator "covertion" P2500 with service warranty.
F) Premium aftermarket replacement radiator P13,000 with 1 year warranty.

So the question is, what do folks here consider more important?

In our market, price is still a big factor. I'd readily go for a surplus replacement on our old cars anytime, especially when i see a fresh OEM radiator stocked at the tindahan.

Amongst the choices, although the China aluminum radiators are intriguing, it's still something i may not trust to put on my ride without a thorough shakedown. Performance is also not a priority for me since my car will not see any excessive weight loads, serious modifications, or track use. Thus, i'd go with one that's affordable, meets the OEM spec requirement and offers even just a limited warranty, which is the either the local copper brass replacement w/ 6-month warranty or the surplus radiator w/ service warranty.

One reason why Evercool became a recommended brand was because it offered a viable OEM replacement alternative to surplus and your tabing-kalye radiator repair shops, with warranty.

[yapoy86]

aluminum radiators have plastic tops coz aluminum is expensive.. if you want to have a aluminum top, you will increase its thickness to hold the pressure.. notice that aluminum radiators have steel clips around. the drain plug will pop in case of over pressure...

aluminum is also a good heat sink compared to copper.. but copper is more sturdy than aluminum

[EVO-V]

aluminum radiators have plastic tops coz aluminum is expensive.. if you want to have a aluminum top, you will increase its thickness to hold the pressure.. notice that aluminum radiators have steel clips around. the drain plug will pop in case of over pressure...

aluminum is also a good heat sink compared to copper.. but copper is more sturdy than aluminum

Actually aluminum tops aren't that expensive but for it to provide as much strength as a plastic tank it needs to be thicker. Moreover, the cost of welding that is more expensive than crimping.

The drain plug is screwed on, it will not pop. You have the overflow to the reservoir to take care of overpressure. Plastic tanks pop primarilty because of clogging.

And sorry dude, but in this universe, Copper outperforms aluminum in thermal conductivity by a factor of 1.7. It is also more corrosion resistant.

[mark_t]

How much better perceived is a product with a 12 month warranty than one with only 6 month and one with none?

Unfortunately, perception about longer warranties does play in the local mindset. When they intend to sell the vehicle
as soon as it is paid up. Most cars here do not see extensive use like in other countries where you have to cross great open
spaces just to go to work.

I've always liked your posts by the way, seems like straight out of a training manual. The passion is there.

As much we would like to maintain our vehicles like a Piper. Restrictive trade policies have left most car owners
to the speed and guile of independent services providers with inadequate training, equipment and supplies.

Being a Certified Mechanic/Business owner is hard here. As just the sight of european cars being repaired in your
garage drives away japanese car owners. (the bulk of the business)

As for me I always choose to get it done right.

instead of getting it done.

[EVO-V]

Unfortunately, perception about longer warranties does play in the local mindset. When they intend to sell the vehicle
as soon as it is paid up. Most cars here do not see extensive use like in other countries where you have to cross great open
spaces just to go to work.

I've always liked your posts by the way, seems like straight out of a training manual. The passion is there.

As much we would like to maintain our vehicles like a Piper. Restrictive trade policies have left most car owners
to the speed and guile of independent services providers with inadequate training, equipment and supplies.

Being a Certified Mechanic/Business owner is hard here. As just the sight of european cars being repaired in your
garage drives away japanese car owners. (the bulk of the business)

As for me I always choose to get it done right.

instead of getting it done.

Thank you.

Sometimes I feel that manuals need to be rewritten. Heck re-drawn for simpler maintenance applications.

Import restriction on Honda parts is the most prevalent one. It is anti-consumer and is in itself an inefficient economic practice.

Though overall, it is difficult to find technical talent around here.