Honda CRV 2003 AT losing power when driving

**dhome1105** · July 7th, 2017 01:31 PM

I have a 2003 Honda CRV AT which is having a acceleration problem. I'll try to be detailed as I can about what happened and I may get some technical things wrong because I am not really into fixing cars.

I bought the car from my brother knowing it over heated before. I got it knowing it was fixed before and if it still fails, I will just buy a new engine and replace it. I thought it would be that simple.

So after using the car for a while, I notice that the engine is losing so much engine oil without any trace of dripping at my garage. I got worried that internally it may screw things up. I also notice a bit of mud like stuff in the radiator cap. So I went to a mechanic, told him the problem and insisted that I will just get a surplus engine and replace it and so I bought an engine, he put it in but to our dismay we got a bad engine so as per my mechanics advice we just went and brought it back and have our cash refunded. Also, there was a check engine light. The seller said, the mechanic did not adjust (something in) the transmission thats why it making that weird noise. But we still returned it back. The mechanic said he can fix the engine and I trusted him because the way he said it was he was so sure he can fix it.

What he did was went to a machine shop, made the cylinder wider, and inserted a sleeve. Mechanic's reason is that one of the cylinder went oblong because the previous mechanic used an oversized piston ring and just cut it short to fit. He showed that to me. Also, the top of cylinder block (not sure of the term here) was machine shoped so it will be straight flat.

He asked us to buy new engine oil (top 1 brand full synthetic, forgot the spec), new ATF (Top 1 DM-3) and coolant. After all was done, there was still a check engine light, he said he doesnt have a diagnosing tool so we went to his friend mechanic to have it checked. So we went, but along the way, we notice that the car sometimes loses power while running. What I mean by that is that when we are running around 30-50kmh the engine will just rev. Its like stepping on gas pedal in neutral. Also he had problems going to reverse gear. He asked his helper if he put in all the ATF and the helper said yes. Sometimes we had to stop, turn off the engine and start again to make it work again. D also blinks. We checked the ATF and saw that its almost empty. We stopped by a shell gas station and filled it with Shell ATF, again I am not sure what that is (I know I am being stupid here by just trusting the mechanic). And so we went to the mechanics friend who has a diagnosing tool. I am not sure but I think the check engine said it was valve timing problem,again not sure just trusting the mechanic. He went back to his shop and tried to fix it. I called the next day and he said the reverse problem was just a wiring problem and it was fixed. However, he cant figure out the problem with the transmission so he went to another known guy here at our place to have it fixed.

So he brought the car to this shop, this guy has all the tools, lifts etc and is well known as a good mechanic at our city. During this time I started researching online. I called them and asked things I have no idea before. I asked if they checked the fuel injectors, MAF Sensors, spark plugs, the solenoid in the trasmission? Said all was good. after a few days, they said its fixed. I asked if they did something in the transmission, they said no. he said the timing was wrong. So I test drive it for about 3kms and all was good. During this time I am feeling happy. However he said that battery is dead which I am already expecting. True enough the batter was dead the following day so I borrowed a battery to drive the car.

After a few kilometers from home, it happened again. engine losing power. Had to stop, because D is blinking. had to shut down engine and restart to make it move again. One time on traffic, I was on Park, then when I had to move again the car wont move. I had to shutdown the engine and start it again to move. And because I did my research, I came to a possible conclusion that they put in wrong ATF, people in the internet say always use HONDA ATF, so I took a leave from work and immediately went to honda to have the ATF flushed. On my way to honda, I filled the gas to almost full. They used 6 liters of HONDA ATF DW-1, according to my research, CRV needs HONDA ATF-Z1 but it has been phased out and its safe to use DW1. Before I left honda, we test drove it and it works! no more problem. This time I drove for like 5kms to be sure. I also purchased a new battery before going back to work.

After work around 4PM, I said to my wife I need to be sure this is really fixed. So I went to a mall, drove around 5kms of city traffic, then went to expressway. I didnt went 100kph, I only went from 70-80kph, varying my speed according to my research this is how you break in a car. in total I drove around 8-10kms city, and around 120kms expressway. I didnt have a problem other than the N sometimes does not illumiate. When I was a few meters from home it came back!! I lost power for a second and power immediately came back. I got worried. The next day same thing happened again but this time its like what happened before. I had to stop, because D is blinking and car wont move.

Because of my sudden interest in cars, specially my car. I purchased a bluetooth OBD2 reader. I just checked it today and it doesnt throw me any error. I have no idea what the numbers say so if you there is something you want to know, please tell me and I will post a screenshot of the torque app.

Now I am just waiting for my mechanic to call. He is in the hospital right now because his son was sick. While waiting, here I am again doing some research..

Sorry if this was too long, I am just trying to be as detailed as possible so anyone who would like to offer their help will know the story. I set some text to bold for some high lights to what happened.

**ParticleX** · July 7th, 2017 01:46 PM

try resetting or "re-learning" the computer box, don't know how to do this on a Honda. on some cars it just involves removing the battery terminals for several hours so you can do this on an evening

i also experienced AT issues when I washed my engine bay. removed the connectors and left to dry for the evening, kinabukasan ok na.

you may also try replacing the ATF again as there might be some of the incompatible ATF left in the sump

**dhome1105** · July 7th, 2017 02:14 PM

Originally Posted by ParticleX

try resetting or "re-learning" the computer box, don't know how to do this on a Honda. on some cars it just involves removing the battery terminals for several hours so you can do this on an evening

i also experienced AT issues when I washed my engine bay. removed the connectors and left to dry for the evening, kinabukasan ok na.

you may also try replacing the ATF again as there might be some of the incompatible ATF left in the sump

I will try this.
Is this the correct procedure?

1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, lights, etc.) are off.
2. Reset the PCM with the HDS.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait 2 seconds.
4. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in P or N) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the coolant temperature reaches 194 degrees F (90 degrees C).
5. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.
NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes."

PCM Idle Learn Proceedure?

**Jiggs** · July 7th, 2017 02:42 PM

Yes Bro, that's the basic PCM learning procedure, to save you the hassle of disconnecting/connecting battery terminal there is a FUSE in the fusebox inside the Engine Bay ( forgot which number ) but it is indicated in the back of the cover about the fuse 15A for the ECU. Just pull it out wait of 2-5mins. and re-insert it, that cuts power to the ECU and same effect of removing the battery terminal. Hopes this helps.

As mentioned above it's also advisable to disconnect all electrical sockets within the engine and check for moisture, spray some contact cleaner to make sure there's no loose connections.

**dhome1105** · July 7th, 2017 03:03 PM

Originally Posted by Jiggs

Yes Bro, that's the basic PCM learning procedure, to save you the hassle of disconnecting/connecting battery terminal there is a FUSE in the fusebox inside the Engine Bay ( forgot which number ) but it is indicated in the back of the cover about the fuse 15A for the ECU. Just pull it out wait of 2-5mins. and re-insert it, that cuts power to the ECU and same effect of removing the battery terminal. Hopes this helps.

As mentioned above it's also advisable to disconnect all electrical sockets within the engine and check for moisture, spray some contact cleaner to make sure there's no loose connections.

Question, since I already replaced the battery yesterday, do I still need to disconnect the batteries? I just did this without removing the batteries because I thought I have already removed it yesterday by replacing it.

Unless, its a prerequisite to have it removed and immediately perform the re-learn procedure.

Also, for some reason my 2 din head unit doesn't have a actual off but I can turn off display so thats what I did.

I haven't test drive it though.. still afraid since I am already in the city.

**Jiggs** · July 7th, 2017 03:15 PM

Yes..removing it will not automatically re-learn your new engine condition of the PCM. Unless you did all the steps right after changing your battery. Try the 15A fuse no tools needed...

**mina_nuka** · July 7th, 2017 05:26 PM

Your "mechanics" did a lot of"fixing" making a mush of problems. The cause is probably too deep to dig since the "crime scene" , if you will, had already been too contaminated. Take it to a trained and experienced professional, not a mechanic. The mechanic will "fix" it until it breaks.

On another note, since your D range indicator was blinking, it indicates an electronic or communication problem. This is no job for a mechanic, seek a professional technician.

Have your technician scope (digital storage oscilloscope) the controller area network (CAN) for abnormal communication waveform and scan for diagnostic trouble codes. Stop your "mechanic" from further "fixing" it.

**dhome1105** · July 7th, 2017 07:27 PM

Somehow, I didnt get the same problem going home after doing a re-learn as mentioned above. Hopefully that really fixed it. However, I dont know if I am just being too paranoid but I kind of feel a bit of hesitation when accelerating somewhere between 50-60kph. Also I am being very gentle to the car especially when accelerating from a stop. Near the house, I tried to be less gentle and seems I didnt get any problem. I'm still going to investigate though. Yesterday was the same thing, it only happened after reaching around 150kms. I just drove 10kms going home today. Crossing my fingers tho...

**dhome1105** · July 7th, 2017 07:33 PM

Originally Posted by mina_nuka

Your "mechanics" did a lot of"fixing" making a mush of problems. The cause is probably too deep to dig since the "crime scene" , if you will, had already been too contaminated. Take it to a trained and experienced professional, not a mechanic. The mechanic will "fix" it until it breaks.

On another note, since your D range indicator was blinking, it indicates an electronic or communication problem. This is no job for a mechanic, seek a professional technician.

Have your technician scope (digital storage oscilloscope) the controller area network (CAN) for abnormal communication waveform and scan for diagnostic trouble codes. Stop your "mechanic" from further "fixing" it.

I'm learning a lot here.. I thought a mekaniko knows everything and didnt realize that there are some people who are expert in the electronics of cars. One of my theory is electronic problem. I have a feeling that the mechanic did a good job in the engine part as the engine seems to be normal. Silent and doesnt vibrate too much. He even missed one wiring thats why in my story, the reverse didnt work initially but he was able to fix it. Right now the N light still doesnt light everytime.