Clutch PROBLEMS Pls Help

**LtAK** · November 12th, 2008 08:33 PM

Hi po, I'm just new here, I hope you can help me finding a soulution to my clutch problem

Mitsubishi Lancer 97' 1.5 GL
Last Nov 2007 I have replaced my entire clutch system w/ Daiken parts (pressure plate, disk, release bearing), after 5 months the clutch drag is getting worse then at the final moment I notice that when I depress the clutch pedal and shift it to first gear (kinda difficult) the car moves forward. I have my mechanic pull down the transmission the problem was the spring of the pressure plate is somewhat uneven, sabi mechanic ko part failure or baka fake, The auto supply from w/c I got it replaced the disk and the plate for free but w/ a different brand AISIN (the release bearing was not replaced)

Now just this month there is another problem I am experiencing, suddenly I have a hard time shifting again from stop position and only when the car is already at normal temp, my mechanic recommended for a pull down of the transmission yet again. BTW I already replaced the entire clutch master and slave hydraulic systems

Ano kaya fake na naman ang mga parts or part failure? or somethings wrong w/ my car somewhere kaya lagi may sumisira sa pressure plate ko

Gear oil is full

Thanks in advance for the help

**tip_tipid** · November 13th, 2008 02:20 AM

there is a part inside the transmission called synchronizer that can give you a problem with symptoms you have described.

**LtAK** · November 13th, 2008 06:43 PM

Sir the synchronizer is fine coz the gear does not go neutral when engage

**technismo** · November 14th, 2008 06:53 PM

sir try nyo po adjust yung clutch freeplay nya

**LtAK** · November 24th, 2008 11:06 PM

The final diagnosis

the pivot ball and the fork ball socket might have wore down over the years, my mechanic suggested of shimming it w/ at 1 or 2 washers so that the fork is moved a bit closer to the pressure plate, according to him a 2mm to 3mm washers will finally make a full clutch disengagement when it is depressed

Is this good or bad?

**v6dreamer** · November 25th, 2008 04:22 AM

Originally Posted by LtAK

The final diagnosis

the pivot ball and the fork ball socket might have wore down over the years, my mechanic suggested of shimming it w/ at 1 or 2 washers so that the fork is moved a bit closer to the pressure plate, according to him a 2mm to 3mm washers will finally make a full clutch disengagement when it is depressed

Is this good or bad?

Why shimming it if you could repalce it. Might be cheaper, but...would it last? Just my 2 cents.

**LtAK** · November 27th, 2008 12:07 AM

Good news to all those w/ tranny problems!

Finally my car is shifting smoothly, no more grinding gears on reverse. My mechanic placed an 2mm solid steel shims/washer in the pivot ball thereby improving the clutch & fork geometry making the full disengagement of the clutch when it is depressed

I also saw this video at youtube courtesy of jacktransmissions, this is the full explanation y there is a need for pivot ball shimming

Try searching jacktransmissions at youtube he explained it well on video about pivot ball shimming

**spyghost** · January 10th, 2009 10:07 PM

i've seen jacktransmissions videos. i repeatedly played his clutch pedal adjustment procedure. i noticed that he didn't use the pedal height from the manual. he did it by pushing the fork and adjusting height.

can anyone confirm this procedure?

**anthon05** · April 14th, 2009 12:45 PM

Originally Posted by spyghost

i've seen jacktransmissions videos. i repeatedly played his clutch pedal adjustment procedure. i noticed that he didn't use the pedal height from the manual. he did it by pushing the fork and adjusting height.

can anyone confirm this procedure?

hi... i have a question i bought seiken clutch master assembly just recently..
auto supply ask me if aluminum or steel. i bought the steel one coz its cheaper.. whats the difference? ano mas matibay? thanks