Oil Specification and Price Database for Gasoline Engines

**jardeus** · May 20th, 2005 09:09 PM

Originally Posted by rallyrick

Mga Dudes
don't use fancy oils and additives just follow your vehicles recommended oil spec. and better clean your internal engine with dtxfr first before change your oil and filters to remove micro hard carbon and sticky thick oils stock inside oil passage orifice. to prolong your engine services save lot of money . . trouble.
more details: soon!!

Actually.. Mobil 1 0w-40 supersynthetic is the most expensive motor oil today..
and it cost 550 pesos isa CASA..
However.. Im selling it for only 330 pesos each per litre..
-----------------
Mobil 1
Supersynthetic
0w-40 = viscosity (w) stands for weather.. for tropical countries.
330 pesos only
-----------------
approved by BMW, Mercedes Benz, Toyota, Volvo, Volkswagen, Honda, etc..
-----------------
just contact me in this number +639193514579
inside metro manila only..
look for jard....
meron pa akong 3 cases..
---------------------
laking tulong na to sa mga car owners..
-----------------------------------------
murang-mura lang benta ko.. mga excess ko lang toh..
never been used, sealed pa....
...............................
:-)

**jardeus** · May 20th, 2005 09:26 PM

Originally Posted by jackaroo

Oil Name : Citgo Supergard
Blend : Mineral
Rating : API SL/SJ
Viscosity : 10w30, 10w40, 20w50
Retail Price : P65-75/quart- Price Smart
Recommended for what types of Gasoline Ride: Check your manual for recommended viscosities

Oil Name : Mobil 1
Blend : Fully Synthetic
Rating : Api SL/SJ/CF
Viscosity : 5w50
Retail Price : P450-500/ liter
Recommended for what types of Gasoline Ride: All

Oil Name : Mobil 1
Blend : Supersynthetic
Rating :

Viscosity : 0w-40
Retail Price : P550/ liter ===>sakin 330 pesos per litre (sealed)
Recommended for what types of Gasoline Ride: All (specially for tropical countries) (approved by Mercedes_benz, BMW, Volkswagen, Toyota etc...

just contact me by this number +639193514579
available in metro manila only...
remeber 330 pesos lang per litre... underground economy toh.. pinapaubos ko lang....
sa ACE 600+ ang isa nito....
sakin 330 pesos lang... 330, 330, 330, 330, 330, 330, 330, 330,.............................................. .................................................. ..........................

**acenie** · August 3rd, 2005 02:05 PM

What are the brands of Semi-Synthetic Oil.

Is Castrol CRD ,Castrol GTX for Diesel and Delo Gold is Semi-Syntethic?

**lee** · August 7th, 2005 06:14 AM

QUAKER STATE SYNTHETICS has a new line of synth.and blended high-performance oils specificaly targeted at performance street engines. Available in a high rpm synthetic blend
(5W-30, 10W-30 and 20W-50) and a full synth (5W-20, 5W-30 and 5W-50)
These blends are a great way to protect againts high heat without the cost penalty of full synthetic. It is shocking at the stratospheric oil temp generated by even short wide-open throtle blasts. For the track guys..a full synthetic blend is a must.
Retail price for the Q blend is $2.79 per quart. The Q synthetic will run $4.49 per quart

**lee** · August 9th, 2005 11:25 AM

You see it all the time-the little warning that says: DO NOT OVERFILL. One place you don't see this reminder is on a high performance oil pan, but frm what I've seen it ought to be in big bold letters. I recently witnessed a simple test on a dyno where I drained one half a quart or liter of oil from a small block Chevy oil pan and not only improved the oil pressure peak rpm by as match 15 psi, but also gained an amazing 14 "free" horse power. Manufacturers specify an oil capacity in their catalogs. This number refers to the number of quarts or liter to place the oil at a given level and can be different from stock "full" mark on the dip stick. This capacity is just the oil in the pan and does not include the filter or any external cooler or filter lines. When the oil level is to high it creates a condition called windage where oil is whipped up by the spinning crankshaft, which not only cost horse power but aerates or foams the oil. It does not take much to figure out that oil mixed with air does not lubricate nearly as well as straight oil. As the foam increases at higher engine speed, the oil pressure drops. That is exactly what was witnessed on the dyno. By reducing the oil level in the oil pan, by 1/2 quart or liter, not only did the oil pressure improve by as much as 15 psi by reducing aeration, but the engine also gained as much as 14 hp. It's the classic win-win situation.

The limitation to this test is that- from a vehicle-dynamics stand point, there can be sesvere consiquences to going to far when it comes to lowering the oil level. I stopped once the oil pressure looked stable. It dropped slightly at about 6,000 rpm- but this is where I chose to end the test. One good test would be heavy breaking to ensure that the oil pressure does not plaummet when the car nose-dives. Obviously, in a road race or autocross car where high-g breaking and cornering are the norm, as slightly higher oil level maybe necessary. The best bet is to determine if the oil pressure is dropping at highter engine speed. That is an obvioius cue that the oil is aerating. Next, reduce the capacity by 1/2 quart or liter and watch the oil pressure at high rpm. If the oil pressure improves and you have no oil pressure problems under breaking, drain another 1/2 quart or liter and rerun your test. Be cautious about removing more than 1 to 1 1/2 quart or liters from the engine without careful evaluation, but this may be necessary if the engine has been severely overfilled. Smaller capacity pan don't seem to suffer the same oil- control problems. This means, only a slight improvement with small engines by reducing the oil capacity, but every case is different. The goal here is to make the engine more efficient by improving oil pressure by reducing aeration, while also potentially increasing power. When you can improve durabilitiy and increase power, that's a home run in anybody's book. END

cj · August 10th, 2005 12:38 PM

Originally Posted by ghosthunter

So what technical knowledge will you bestow on us lowly humans? Hopefully it will be related to: "Oil Specification and Price Database for Gasoline Engines" since that is the topic of this discussion thread, Rick.

he he he... pinatulan ni ni sir Ghost ...sorry po sa late reaction, ngayon ko lang nabasa....

**yebo** · September 20th, 2005 02:20 PM

advise naman please. i just recently changed oil on my lancer, from semi-synthetic to fully synthetic. car is 2002 model, only 30000 km on the odo. i pride myself before of having a pretty high km/l mileage, 11+ km/l city and up to 15 km/l highway (on semi-synthetic oil). actually before when i had it on pure mineral oil the mileage was even higher, 12+km/l city and 16+ km/l highway. i did not mind the slight drop in mileage when i switched to semi-synthetic since i was thinking of the added protection the engine will get. but now after changing oil to fully synthetic (shell ultra yata yun) my mileage dropped to only 6km/l city. i have not tested it on the highway yet as i had not had the chance. driving conditions are the same as before, no change in driving habits either. could this be due to the oil?

any comments will be appreciated. thanks.