lintek na yan.. halos maamoy palang ang paa mo nag pre preno na...
advice.. hugas ka mabuti ng paa...
he.he.. joke
lintek na yan.. halos maamoy palang ang paa mo nag pre preno na...
advice.. hugas ka mabuti ng paa...
he.he.. joke
Naging project ko yan nung may owner jeep ako.
Yung original master ko ay 1/2" diameter lang, pero yung travel nung piston galing sa pedal ko ay 1 inch lang. Kaya DP palagi ako para lang mag-menor sa kaliit na 4x2 jeep.
Pinalitan ko ng 7/8" diameter na master para mas madaming fluid ang tumulak sa brake lines. Di ko na pinalitan yung hydrovac ko na de-8", tingin ko pwede na yun.
After nung modif na yan, single pump na lang, wheel lock na 4 na gulong ko. Resulta nung mas maraming fluid na tumulak sa brake lines, halos dumoble sa volume kaya mas masarap mag-preno, parang pang oto na agad.
So tingin ko pareho tayo ng naging resulta
That is usually the problem if you did not replace the Hydrovac and the Brake Primary Master as a set. The push rod between the hydrovac & the Primary master is "mechanically engineered" as a set such that it has specific play during braking. You mix and mate a hydrovac with a Primary brake master not its partner (or vice versa) will usually result in sticking brakes, super sensitive brakes (just like yours), uneven braking. That's guaranteed. The only thing you can do for now is to adjust "lower" the push rod between the pedal and your hydrovAC. Do NOT touch/adjust the push rod between the hydrovac and primary master. That is why most shops in the US, emphasizes that these parts should be purchased with the right partner (Hydrovac and primary master), even if one of the 2 is old as long as you purchase its partner with the right parts serial #, it should be fine..
For comparison:
Mazda 6 Service Manual
Brake pedal free play = 0-3 mm (0-0.1 in)
Pedal-to-Floor clearance (With Pedal Depressed) = 68 mm (2.68 in)
Toyota Camry Service Manual
Brake pedal free play = 1-6 mm (0.04-0.24 in)
Pedal-to-Floor clearance (with Pedal Depressed) = 70 mm (2.76 in)
oo..mas advisable talaga na palitan as a set or kung seal replacement lang e wag galawin ang pushrod. karamihan kasi ng mekaniko inaadjust yung pushrod under the dash. hindi nila alam na self adjusting naman halos lahat ng drum brakes (provided na operational ang parking brakes).
pero kung hindi as a set ang palit gaya ng ginawa ko e baka makatulong etong thread na eto: Brake Job DIY - PinoyHandyMan Do-It-Yourself Community
i think you have installed an overly sensitive brake booster or feather trigger booster. what was wrong with the old booster anyway? if the booster does not have vacuum leak nor damaged in any way, try reinstalling it. just make sure you have 1 mm clearance between the cavity of the primary piston and the push rod at fully seated position. there is a brake booster push rod measuring tool for this. but in its absence, you can try to extend the push rod out forward lightly, then, use the master cylinder to reseat it. move the master cylinder out of the way and with your finger, push the booster push rod in, it should move in or retract about 1 mm.
https://www.google.com/search?q=brak...ap%3B731%3B289
or you did not bleed your brake system adequately. Did you bleed your primary master adequately before re installing the fittings for the front and rear brake lines? afterwards, did you bleed the 4 corners starting from the farthest wheel then lastly the nearest wheel to the primary master?
I prefer not to touch the push rod between the hydrovac and the primary master in any way. Once you touch this without the proper measuring tools, you mess up your brake system. guaranteed.
You can, however, adjust the pushrod between the brake pedal and the hydrovac....
Aside from master cylinder and vacuum brake booster replacement, was there anything else replaced or done?