Clutch Slipping ...

[Dezaremos]

Clutch slipping when engine is at operating temp or after 30 minutes of driving ..

New Clutch disc, pressure plate & release bearing .. New Clutch slave ..

Symptoms started after the Clutch Master was replaced last year .. Clutch master was replaced due to spongy pedal and cannot shift gears ..

After master replaced, clutch was slipping at operating temp .. I didnt mind because I thought maybe its the clutch disc being worn already .. But now everything is new, it still slips ..

Do I need to replaced my Clutch master too ?? Maybe I got a factory defect one .. Brand was SanyCo ...

[dr. d]

perhaps your pedal clearance is too... non-existent.
check, po.

[LN106G]

Ok so you replaced your primary clutch master earlier. Did it solve your spongy pedal before?
Now you just recently replaced your clutch pressure plate, lining, release bearing & clutch slave.. And now you have slipping clutch once you reach operating temp

My guess is that the push rod of either the slave or the primary master is adjusted way too long.. If you still have the old OEM slave take the length of its pushrod & compare it to the new one. Also compare the depth of the depression of the slave piston in relation to the slave vs the old OEM. Once you're pretty sure that your new slave's piston & push rod plays fore & aft is comparable to the OEM, only then that you can adjust your pedal clearance by increments...
That is the little problem you encounter with replacements... Hehe.

[Dezaremos]

Ok so you replaced your primary clutch master earlier. Did it solve your spongy pedal before?
Now you just recently replaced your clutch pressure plate, lining, release bearing & clutch slave.. And now you have slipping clutch once you reach operating temp

My guess is that the push rod of either the slave or the primary master is adjusted way too long.. If you still have the old OEM slave take the length of its pushrod & compare it to the new one. Also compare the depth of the depression of the slave piston in relation to the slave vs the old OEM. Once you're pretty sure that your new slave's piston & push rod plays fore & aft is comparable to the OEM, only then that you can adjust your pedal clearance by increments...
That is the little problem you encounter with replacements... Hehe.

The replacement of the primary clutch last year solved the spongy pedal but it also started the clutch slipping at operating temp ...

Last year when the mechanic remove the primary clutch and compared it to the one i've bought as replacement, the push rod of the replacement was shorter than the original one. So what he did was took the pushrod of the old one and he pud it in the new one ... My guess is that, the pushrod of the original was not compatible with the replacement one ..

[Dezaremos]

Ok so you replaced your primary clutch master earlier. Did it solve your spongy pedal before?
Now you just recently replaced your clutch pressure plate, lining, release bearing & clutch slave.. And now you have slipping clutch once you reach operating temp

My guess is that the push rod of either the slave or the primary master is adjusted way too long.. If you still have the old OEM slave take the length of its pushrod & compare it to the new one. Also compare the depth of the depression of the slave piston in relation to the slave vs the old OEM. Once you're pretty sure that your new slave's piston & push rod plays fore & aft is comparable to the OEM, only then that you can adjust your pedal clearance by increments...
That is the little problem you encounter with replacements... Hehe.

how to adjust the pedal increments ?? should I start with a very low pedal, as in close to the floor at adjust it going upwards ???

[LN106G]

how to adjust the pedal increments ?? should I start with a very low pedal, as in close to the floor at adjust it going upwards ???

Sir, you have to make sure first that the replacement clutch slave's/2ndary master's pushrod length and play is the same as the OEM one. Only then can you adjust the pedal clearance if needed...
With regards to pedal clearance adj, you have to loosen the lock nut (usually 14mm), then get a pliers and rotate the push rod CLOCKWISE (in relation to the nut and threaded "U" flange attached to the pedal) to shorten the pushrod and thereby relaxing the pedal (increased pedal play). Turning it COUNTERclockwise will lengthen the pushrod and thereby decreasing pedal play. Do this with quarter turn increments....

[Dezaremos]

Sir, you have to make sure first that the replacement clutch slave's/2ndary master's pushrod length and play is the same as the OEM one. Only then can you adjust the pedal clearance if needed...
With regards to pedal clearance adj, you have to loosen the lock nut (usually 14mm), then get a pliers and rotate the push rod CLOCKWISE (in relation to the nut and threaded "U" flange attached to the pedal) to shorten the pushrod and thereby relaxing the pedal (increased pedal play). Turning it COUNTERclockwise will lengthen the pushrod and thereby decreasing pedal play. Do this with quarter turn increments....

The replacement slave cylinder pushrod length is the same with the old one but the old one is not an oem already to begin with .. the mark says HDK/HSK in the housing, I know the oem should be AISIN ..

The pedal adjustment ... You mean the higher the height of the pedal, the more the play decreases/stiffer .. and the lower the height of the pedal (near the carpet), the more the play increases/softer ???

[LN106G]

The replacement slave cylinder pushrod length is the same with the old one but the old one is not an oem already to begin with .. the mark says HDK/HSK in the housing, I know the oem should be AISIN ..

The pedal adjustment ... You mean the higher the height of the pedal, the more the play decreases/stiffer .. and the lower the height of the pedal (near the carpet), the more the play increases/softer ???

The higher the height of the pedal, the stiffer it will be and the lesser pedal play.... If you want to have more pedal play, you have to shorten the push rod and by that you have to rotate the push rod CLOCKWISE. Do this quarter turn.. Be cautious in adjusting your push rod... Adjusting it too long will make your clutch slip and too short will prevent you from engaging your gear...

If matigas clutch nyo po e malamang nakatukod pushrod either ng primary master or yung sa clutch slave po...

[Dezaremos]

The higher the height of the pedal, the stiffer it will be and the lesser pedal play.... If you want to have more pedal play, you have to shorten the push rod and by that you have to rotate the push rod CLOCKWISE. Do this quarter turn.. Be cautious in adjusting your push rod... Adjusting it too long will make your clutch slip and too short will prevent you from engaging your gear...

If matigas clutch nyo po e malamang nakatukod pushrod either ng primary master or yung sa clutch slave po...

Got it ...

Ganito kasi ang nangyari last year sir, yung binili kong master cylinder ay masyadong maliit ang pushrod .. to the point na hindi talaga aabot sa pedal ang height nya, yung U shape na i-connect sa likod ng pedal ay hindi aabot .. kaya ang ginawa ng mekaniko, tinanggal nya yung pushrod sa old master cylinder pati yung U shape, at yun ang ipinalit nya sa bagong master cylinder .. kumbaga bagong master cylinder, lumang pushrod ..

so kung ang design ng nabili kong master ay hindi aabot sa clutch pedal, malamang hindi magka tugma ang new master cylinder at lumang pushrod .. given na mahaba yung lumang pushrod, siguro sobrang haba siya para sa design ng bagong cylinder na naka design using maliit ng pushrod ... at baka dahil dun, always naka tukod ang pushrod kahit sa pinaka mababa na pedal height nya ...

[dr. d]

errr... perhaps it is now time to reveal, what car we are talking about?

[Dezaremos]

errr... perhaps it is now time to reveal, what car we are talking about?

Corolla GLi 1.6 4afe ..

[anthon05]

If everything is new from the clutch master, slave , clutch disc, pressure plate and release bearing. and still slipping.

maybe:

1. Release bearing lock , I don't know what its called but its the two wires connected to the release bearing. on my experience one time mechanic failed to install one 'wire or lock'. kaya kahit hindi mo tapakan clutch umaandar or slips.

2.pudpod na yung dulo ng clutch fork, even if you adjust the rod of the slave hindi na niya kaya isagad.

[albigert]

[Dezaremos]

Got it ...

Ganito kasi ang nangyari last year sir, yung binili kong master cylinder ay masyadong maliit ang pushrod .. to the point na hindi talaga aabot sa pedal ang height nya, yung U shape na i-connect sa likod ng pedal ay hindi aabot .. kaya ang ginawa ng mekaniko, tinanggal nya yung pushrod sa old master cylinder pati yung U shape, at yun ang ipinalit nya sa bagong master cylinder .. kumbaga bagong master cylinder, lumang pushrod ..

so kung ang design ng nabili kong master ay hindi aabot sa clutch pedal, malamang hindi magka tugma ang new master cylinder at lumang pushrod .. given na mahaba yung lumang pushrod, siguro sobrang haba siya para sa design ng bagong cylinder na naka design using maliit ng pushrod ... at baka dahil dun, always naka tukod ang pushrod kahit sa pinaka mababa na pedal height nya ...

My hunch was right all along .. Hindi talaga compatible yung lumang pushrod sa bagong clutch master ko dati kaya nag slide siya ..

Bumili uli't ako ng brandnew but with the correct pushrod height .. Wala nang problema .. after installing, takbo agad, kahit ilang oras ang takbo, hindi na nag slide ..

It took me a year to diagnose that it was the replacement clutch master paired with the old pushrod all along was the culprit, I thought it was the clutch lining ...