Strada PMS thread [continued]

[The Engineer]

hi guys

how about oils like Castrol GTX 15w40 (P875 per gallon) nakita ko sa DiY stores compared to TurboXP ? ayos ba ang Castrol ?

thanks

HI SIR,

Ok din po castrol pero try to use 10w40 na lng po.its either Shell HX7, Durablend Valvoline(Recommended here at baguio by Jeff-road), and TOP1 po. Sa pangalan po lang sila nagkakaiba.Still Mineral Based oil plus additives na lang po yung mga yan.Sir ang alagaan natin ay yung ECU response time of our engine kasi jan po nakasalalay lahat ng system....ang tawag po namin jan ay SYSTEM BUS.Si sir ranic(aka Grand Lakay) ang binigyan ko ng powerpoint lecture at si Bosb TP for your technical concern on CRDi with EGR and ECU at CRDi-VGT, then Clutch Handling on Launch and Release po.

[The Engineer]

hi guys

how about oils like Castrol GTX 15w40 (P875 per gallon) nakita ko sa DiY stores compared to TurboXP ? ayos ba ang Castrol ?

thanks

Sir, ok din po castrol na 15w40 they have a study of thier own po like dynamotest.mas ok po yung 10w40 nila sir kasi yung small digit 10W stands for starting lubircation(for winter temp or tropical temp.) and yung 40 naman po ay sa running lubrication. and at hot engine temp the 40 lubircation will turn to 10w which is the baseline po...parang mantika pagmalamig konti ay malapot so pag-napainitan na po ay lalabnaw na sir. kaya try nu din Shell HX7 synthetic technology 10w40, Valvoline 10w40 Durablend and Top1 po. And sir, yung mga pangalan lang po ng maker ang binabayaran natin pero still the motor oils falls to content of percentage on mineral oil and synthetic blend and additives po....pag-nakadecide na po kayo ng motor oil stick na po kayo dun kasi mahirap din po ang palit ng palit ng motor oil. Yung mga stated brand ko po ay abot kaya ng bulsa sir. and ang alagaan po natin na isa sir yung ECU natin po kasi control lahat tayo ng ECU...please ask sir Tp, sir Ranic(aka Grand lakay) and Sir spyke for the lecture on CRDi-egr,CRDi-VGT and Clutch proper launch and release po.

[bigtrak]

Sir, ok din po castrol na 15w40 they have a study of thier own po like dynamotest.mas ok po yung 10w40 nila sir kasi yung small digit 10W stands for starting lubircation(for winter temp or tropical temp.) and yung 40 naman po ay sa running lubrication. and at hot engine temp the 40 lubircation will turn to 10w which is the baseline po...parang mantika pagmalamig konti ay malapot so pag-napainitan na po ay lalabnaw na sir. kaya try nu din Shell HX7 synthetic technology 10w40, Valvoline 10w40 Durablend and Top1 po. And sir, yung mga pangalan lang po ng maker ang binabayaran natin pero still the motor oils falls to content of percentage on mineral oil and synthetic blend and additives po....pag-nakadecide na po kayo ng motor oil stick na po kayo dun kasi mahirap din po ang palit ng palit ng motor oil. Yung mga stated brand ko po ay abot kaya ng bulsa sir. and ang alagaan po natin na isa sir yung ECU natin po kasi control lahat tayo ng ECU...please ask sir Tp, sir Ranic(aka Grand lakay) and Sir spyke for the lecture on CRDi-egr,CRDi-VGT and Clutch proper launch and release po.

ito ang gamit ko so far ok naman - Shell Helix Diesel Plus 10W-40, good for 5-7k kms...
http://www.shell.com.ph/home/content...x_diesel_plus/

iba pa ba to sa Shell HX7 synthetic technology 10w40?

[The Engineer]

ito ang gamit ko so far ok naman - Shell Helix Diesel Plus 10W-40, good for 5-7k kms...
http://www.shell.com.ph/home/content...x_diesel_plus/

iba pa ba to sa Shell HX7 synthetic technology 10w40?

yes sir, according to them its good for 10000km to 15000km daw po and synthetic po xa for newer engines po sir

[t3kk3n]

Sir, ok din po castrol na 15w40 they have a study of thier own po like dynamotest.mas ok po yung 10w40 nila sir kasi yung small digit 10W stands for starting lubircation(for winter temp or tropical temp.) and yung 40 naman po ay sa running lubrication. and at hot engine temp the 40 lubircation will turn to 10w which is the baseline po...parang mantika pagmalamig konti ay malapot so pag-napainitan na po ay lalabnaw na sir. kaya try nu din Shell HX7 synthetic technology 10w40, Valvoline 10w40 Durablend and Top1 po. And sir, yung mga pangalan lang po ng maker ang binabayaran natin pero still the motor oils falls to content of percentage on mineral oil and synthetic blend and additives po....pag-nakadecide na po kayo ng motor oil stick na po kayo dun kasi mahirap din po ang palit ng palit ng motor oil. Yung mga stated brand ko po ay abot kaya ng bulsa sir. and ang alagaan po natin na isa sir yung ECU natin po kasi control lahat tayo ng ECU...please ask sir Tp, sir Ranic(aka Grand lakay) and Sir spyke for the lecture on CRDi-egr,CRDi-VGT and Clutch proper launch and release po.

*the Engineer

Thanks for the input and explanation, i just notice kasi ang casa yun turbo xp nila na fully synthetic (15w40) eh parang malabnaw na pag dating ng 5km, na dapat every 10km ang palit, city driving lang ako at usually low-revs lang kasi malapit lang byahe ko ;) baka sa 15km checkup ako mag palit na ako ng langis ulit ;)

[The Engineer]

*the Engineer

Thanks for the input and explanation, i just notice kasi ang casa yun turbo xp nila na fully synthetic (15w40) eh parang malabnaw na pag dating ng 5km, na dapat every 10km ang palit, city driving lang ako at usually low-revs lang kasi malapit lang byahe ko ;) baka sa 15km checkup ako mag palit na ako ng langis ulit ;)

Your welcome sir t3kk3n

[KCboy]

ako, kahit fully synthetic, with our severe driving conditions, i usually still change oil between 6000 to 7500kms. iba talaga drive and go, hot traffic conditions dito.

[The Engineer]

At sir kc, normal change oil po ginagawa nu pero kilometer ranges Lang young 10000km bro.NAsa driving habit pa rin and driving condition tumatagal ang mga sasakyan natin.

[Skippy]

Hi guys,

Just wanted to update you on my stalling and alarm problem.

1) stalling - well, they ran a computer check on i don't know what... says here "SIQL by using MUT III". i also had to bring the pickup on a separate day apart from the 35km check because it will take two days to get to the SCV and the EGR to have them cleaned. baklas time alone is 4 hours and another 4 hours after cleaning those two things. anyway, i paid an extra 2K or so for the cleaning. Can't complain.

2) alarm - winterpine head office near UERM told me that the alarm was really sensitive and that it was really programmed that way. unfortunately, there really wasn't anything that they can do about that part according to the technician. what we agreed on was to take out the sensor altogether (small thingie with a couple of wires) but retain the alarm so that forcibly opening the doors will still trigger the alarm. sounded like a good compromise. it took them an hour or so to do it. i tried manually opening the door via the key. it will open but will sound off the alarm once you try turning on the engine. i just used the remote to relock and reopen it while i was still inside the car so i can restart the engine. maybe there's a better way? anyway, this is good enough for now. at least my neighbors can now sleep

btw, do you guys have a different thread on the new GTV strada? i originally wanted to buy a new car next year as a backup vehicle that's gas powered but the upgrade looks quite tempting. i might just sell my current ride EOY2012 to get a new GTV.

[flash1919]

just had my 30k pms last satuday at mitsu cdo......... total cost was 6,450.00 excluding the motor oil (motul crdi) but included was 6 lit of mobil1 diff & transmission oil, had also mi windshield washer motor replaced under warranty, which failed........................btw included was 2-500ml of diesel additive