MTB (mountain bike riders) anyone?

[Noel Salisipan]

The Bani Cycling Club Western Pangasinan cordially invites MTB riders enthusiast to particiate, & conquer the beauty of our place.

[machinepistol]

sir, ano bang "e- kit" ang tinutukoy mo?

ang experience ko lang kasi diyan e 4yrs ago na yata, nung magpa- tulong sa akin ang isang kaibigan.
that e- kit includes a wheel (the motor is in the hub), a batt pack, a controller, an accelerator,
connecting wires and cables.

the kit will add around 10- 15lbs (more or less) to your ride...
eh ano kung mabigat, hindi ka naman mapapagod ng kapi- pidal.

Yes, that's the kit I was referring to.

[joemarski]

Yes, that's the kit I was referring to.

hmmmnnn... a 4- year old e- kit?!?
no modifications??? not even a facelift??? joke!

anyway, here are some "hit or miss" points that's worth considering:
- the kit aint weather- friendly. gotta keep it dry.
it can't stand severe vibrations and shocks either. you'll have to keep that in mind.
- installation is quite easy. just made a liitle bit harder because of the added weight.
you'll just need the same / usual bike- builder's tools.
- kits are available with a motorized front wheel or a motorized rear wheel.
you can use the front or the rear, even both. again, power and weight will be affected.
- get the "push button" accelerator. you don't have to remove your stock grips.
much easier to operate than the "grip shift" type.
- if you do "wheelies" or "bunny hops", get the rear wheel kit. forget about the front.
another + on this kit, if your batt pack is "rack / carrier mounted", you'll have to work "only" on the
rear side of the bike when removing the kit. only QRs on the rear hub and seat tube will be affected.

if you ran out of power, you can still pedal your way home. remove the e- kit (wheel, batt pack,
controller . . . you can keep the accelerator installed), pop in your stock wheel, and you can go back riding
while the batt pack recharges back home.

there's a good reason why this kit was invented and why people are using them.

as always... have a safe ride.

[jut703]

Not a fan of those bikes with electric motors.

I bike for exercise. Not really exercise anymore if you let a tiny motor do all the heavy lifting.

There are motorcycles and cars for people who don't wanna get tired of pedaling.

[ozcity]

any fast rolling tyres you recommend? 2.2 sana....currently riding a 2.3 minion dhf tapos 2.3 highrollerII rear...maganda kapit nung highroller even wet and muddy..kaso parang nabibigatan ako

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[testament11]

^
May nabasa ko na Schwalbe Nobby Nic is fast kahit na nasa 2.xx ang lapad.

[ozcity]

^ hindi ba malambot sidewall ng nobby?. rocky and sand yung mga napupuntahan ko na trail

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[ozcity]

may supplier ba ng giant or santa cruz frame dyan sa ph?

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[jut703]

Yes, Life Cycle PH.

[ozcity]

getting ready..

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[ozcity]

saturday ride..1.5km rocky downhill...cant go fast nakakatakot..

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[larry0609]

For the price of 100k, is the specs below any good?

Frame: Trek Evo EX8 trail rootbeer color size 17.5 virtual (16.5 actual size) with Fox Float RP2 rear suspension, ABP full floater linkage design, with 3M bathroom tape
Wheelset: American Classic size MTB 26 disc size 26 inch
Fork: Fox Float RL 130mm, rebound, lockout controls, with 3M bathroom tape
Handle bar and Stem: Easton Haven
Crank: Raceface Deus XC (Made in Canada)
Rear Derailleur: SRAM X0 with carbon and KCNC ceramic pulleys
Front Derailleur: Shimano SLX
Cogset: 11-34 Shimano 9 speed XT
Chain: Shimano HG79
Brake: Avid Juicy 5 Hydraulic disk, 7 inch front rotors, 6 inch rear rotor
Shifters: SRAM X9 rotary type (3x9 speed)
Tires: Scwhalbe Nobby Nic 26 x 2.1
Seatpost and seatpost Clamp: Bontrager race lightweight
Saddle: Velo Plush super comfy
Grip: Ergon with integrated bar end
Pedals: Xpeedo
Bottle holder: Bontrager side access

[testament11]

For the price of 100k, is the specs below any good?

Frame: Trek Evo EX8 trail rootbeer color size 17.5 virtual (16.5 actual size) with Fox Float RP2 rear suspension, ABP full floater linkage design, with 3M bathroom tape
Wheelset: American Classic size MTB 26 disc size 26 inch
Fork: Fox Float RL 130mm, rebound, lockout controls, with 3M bathroom tape
Handle bar and Stem: Easton Haven
Crank: Raceface Deus XC (Made in Canada)
Rear Derailleur: SRAM X0 with carbon and KCNC ceramic pulleys
Front Derailleur: Shimano SLX
Cogset: 11-34 Shimano 9 speed XT
Chain: Shimano HG79
Brake: Avid Juicy 5 Hydraulic disk, 7 inch front rotors, 6 inch rear rotor
Shifters: SRAM X9 rotary type (3x9 speed)
Tires: Scwhalbe Nobby Nic 26 x 2.1
Seatpost and seatpost Clamp: Bontrager race lightweight
Saddle: Velo Plush super comfy
Grip: Ergon with integrated bar end
Pedals: Xpeedo
Bottle holder: Bontrager side access

Hmmmmm, parang overpriced ito para sa akin. 9 speed lang tapos chopsuey drivetrain pa. I think you can get a better bike pa.

[jasonub]

Meron yeti asr na custom frame sa olx. Bargain price na yon.

[ozcity]

^chopsuey nga..and yes he can get a better specs at that price...9 speed is not bad...mas gusto ko nga 2x9 setup kung puro trail ..currently 3x10 ako pero yung middle and smallest ring lang nagagamit ko

[joemarski]

^ ^ ^ ^ can't comment on the price... dami kasing components and different brands pa.
for me: price of all components + 2,000petot = OVERPRICE
well, i do build my own bikes

get a better Drivetrain Groupset, a Shimano (XT or Saint) or SRAM (X0 or equal,
should you prefer Twist Shifters), and slap the rest of the components.
it will give you a sweeter ride, might be cheaper too.

[joemarski]

^ 'yung isang ride ko, 3 x 9. inalis ko naman 'yung smallest ring ng crankset
then pinalitan ko ng roadie 'yung cassete. happy naman ako sa bilis niya. :thumbup:

[jut703]

10 speed or 9 speed doesn't make a difference since usually naman pareho lang 11-34T pareho. A 10 speed just has an additional gear in the middle which isn't noticeable.

Mas malaki difference ng 2 front chainrings vs 3. With a 3x9/10 setup na usually 42/32/22T, maraming overlapping gears - 3x4 will probably be the same as 2x7. But it has a longer top gear 3x10 (42Tx11T) and a shorter first gear 1x1 (22Tx34T).

My current setup is 2x10 na 36/22T and 11-34T. Bitin sa long straights ang 36, mas ok ang 38. But I'm able to climb most uphills even with just the 36T chainring tapos lowest gear sa likod.

However, pag kasing haba ng The Wall yung uphill, di ko pa kaya kahit 2x1 na ko. I tried it last weekend, nasira front shifter ko so stuck ako sa 36T chain ring, and kinailangan ko magstop midway sa Wall. I'll be getting my shifter fixed/replaced but I'll still train harder para kayanin ang Wall ng hindi naggranny gear.


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[ozcity]

^depende din siguro kung saan mo ginagamit yung bike mo...ako kasi 99% trail na rocky..so a bigger front ring talagang useless..2x9 or 2x10 siguro for me kasi mga 20-30kph lang tkabo ko..pero kung 3rings infront..useless yung malaki ..mahirap pag rocky yung trail..never tried a smooth trail..lahat kasi ng trail na malapit sa bahay ko lahat mabato...going uphill or downhill on a rocky trail is different from a smooth offroad trail...dapat matatag din braso mo...hehehe

saka wala ako mahanap na chain guide for 3x10 setup..nakakabadtrip yung chain slap sa frame..plus tumatalon ang chain

[jut703]

^Yun nga sinasabi ko bro, most people will be served fine by a 2x10 setup that suits their riding style (for you mukhang bagay yung 36-22 since puro trails ka).

A 3x10 is more of an all-rounder with overlapping and unecessary gears. For your riding, you wouldn't need the 42T chainring. Conversely, another guy who barely climbs long, steep uphills but has a lot of long rides will probably need that 42T big ring but not the 22T granny. But both your styles will be served by a 3x10, unlike with a 2x10 where he'll need 2 different chainrings from what you'll need.


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