Some repairs are in order (inputs appreciated)

[OTEP]

My transfer case support and front differential bushings are worn out. The transfer case bushing is the one near the driver's side while there are three bushings holding the front differential (two ahead, one behind near the oil pan).

I went to Mitsubishi and they could not supply me diff bushings. Apparently, too few people notice or check these things.

I went to M7 bushing fabricators along Quirino Highway (near Chieffy's old station). They said they will replace the diff and x-case bushings for Php 2,000.00 pesos (materials and labor). Is this a good deal? They will use engine-mount bushings and reuse most of the OEM hardware.

I also need new CV joint-inner boots. How much are these things supposed to cost? I'm not getting OEM because I need a bigger boot to compensate for the suspension lift. The present boot is too short and cannot cope with the driveline angles I encounter.

Thanks a bunch! Miss you guys so much.

[GlennSter]

wala kami?

[OTEP]

May CV-joint boots daw kayo. But the diff support bushing is not really a popular part. That's why I'm considering fabrication.

[KCboy]

otep,
u lead the way and i'll follow. tumaas nga me but bawat liko may tumatama. tingin ko mas hirap me magoffroad now kasi less clearance na between the fenders n tires.

[notEworthy27]

san ang cv joint inner boot?

[jackaroo]

Why not use replacement bushings and cv boots? The replacement parts are not that far in quality vs oem.
Fabricated parts- don't know anyone who uses them.

[wiretap_md]

OTEP: Regarding the CV-boots, why don't you try asking around if the front boots of the 4x4 Trooper could fit. Malay mo, baka mas malaki siya compared sa Pajero. If it does, then you can just shop around for a replacement part for it.

[afrasay]

sa eldorado ako nabili ng t-case support nun gen1 dati. actually wala siyang nakakabit na support, kami lang ni ferdie ang nagkabit, without even the luxury of a service manual (pero sinilip ko yun parts manual sa el dorado). pag engine/tranny supports go OEM. it pays in the long run. with regards to you boots, bring a sample to your suking auto supply and buy longer ones. basta pareho yun diameter na sasalpak sa cv joints. again, I would go for OEM sa CV joints, hirap kasi magbaklas niyang pagnasira ulit.

[pajerokid]

Otep, i think P2000 bucks is a good deal already for a fabricated part! Yung boots naman you can always get the next bigger size. (of course yung diameter nung ends must be the same)

[OTEP]

Its the differential support bushings that are not available in OEM and replacement varieties. Kahit sa store nina Glenn wala nun. They look like engine mounts. But they hold the differential instead of the engine.

M7 fabricates engine mounts and they can make a bushing that will work for the front diff.

Yung sa CV joint boots, siguro shop around for a bigger boot. I just need one that is a tad longer than OEM since by wheel drops more compared to the standard set up.

jackaroo,

We use fabricated parts - for our 1946 Ford. hehehehe. Hope they work on a 1996 Pajero.

[ARB]

sa cv joints i think wala advantage if you use longer ones because may guide ang cv joint where the boots should sit, so if you use longer ones the estended part will be ok but the compressed part will still rub against each other thus there will still be friction and wear. problem with axle disconnect vehicles is when you lift it the joints and boots will have accelerated wear because they turn even in 2 wheel drive. may ranger here that he put na lang manual locking hubs to cure the problem cause he changes cv boots every three months due to excessive angles. you can use cv boots from most FWD cars they fit, cost about 280 each here it must be cheaper there. and since you are in the process of changing the diff support why dont you lower na lang the front diff a little to compensate for the angles of your cv joint. the nest thing that will give are the ball joints this is due again to the lift.

[OTEP]

My CV joints tore not because they rubbed. Mild lang ang lift ko. They tore because of the longer wheel travel availed by my shorter bumpstops. On-road, there is practically no rubbing with my boots. However, when driven off road, with all the tire lifts and stuff, the boot gets stretched to the limit.

Ball joints are ok. They're pretty easy to fix and I don't think a mild lift will destroy them.

[ARB]

when i mean they rub against each other the folds of the boots not the inner and the outer boots. this is caused by the lift you made. just basing this on the experiences we have encountered in relation to torn boots. i guess dont use 4wheel drive that much i only use it at least twice a week, so my boots served me for 7 years before they need replacing.

[OTEP]

ARB,

I'm on 2wd now and I got stuck twice in a day just driving around in Quezon City. One was trying to clamber up a concrete island near St. Luke's Hospital (to meet up with bulldog) and the other was when I made a U-turn on an unfinished u-turn slot. Nakakapanibago ang hindi naka-4wd. hehehehe.

The bellows of the CV joints would usuall touch each other on full wheel drop. On level ground, there is still some distance. Anyways, try ko muna to drive around in 2wd. I think GlennSter's shop can do the boots. Medyo toxic lang ako at the moment kaya hindi mapagawa. hehehehe

Thanks.