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  1. Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    8
    #41
    Just an update. .

    Just closed out the the mechanical works for my elgrand, now working in perfect condition

    The loud sound was fixed by just replacing the wheel bearings (2 per set, dad bought it in downtown (binondo) was not able to ask how much. but im guessing you can buy the bearings at any nissan part suppliers. So for those who have encountered same problem this can serve as reference.

    Luckily did not have to replace any suspension parts (sorry to disappoint those who are looking forward where to get parts and corresponding costs ). There is still a dribbling sound when passing through bumps, for a novice like me would suspect suspension problems right away but turns out that its coming from the door hinges (requires replacements of bushings). This i guess will be an easy fix.

    So there I will now move to the more exciting part which is body paint and interiors ill try my best to document these and post some before and after pics.

  2. Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    8
    #42
    Just an update. .

    Just closed out the the mechanical works for my elgrand, now working in perfect condition

    The loud sound was fixed by just replacing the wheel bearings (2 per set, dad bought it in downtown (binondo) was not able to ask how much. but im guessing you can buy the bearings at any nissan part suppliers. So for those who have encountered same problem this can serve as reference.

    Luckily did not have to replace any suspension parts (sorry to disappoint those who are looking forward where to get parts and corresponding costs ). There is still a dribbling sound when passing through bumps, for a novice like me would suspect suspension problems right away but turns out that its coming from the door hinges (requires replacements of bushings). This i guess will be an easy fix.

    So there I will now move to the more exciting part which are body repair, paint and interiors ill try my best to document these and post some before and after pics.

  3. Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    28
    #43
    Thanks for the Tips Dvldoc,

    I have a few questions regarding some of the bottons in my elgrand.

    1. the AT lever has a botton which lights the 'OD off' indicator. what does OD off mean and when do I use it?
    2. there is a "Heat' botton. what is this for and when do i use it.
    3. also the "Power/snow" botton. when do i use the "power botton"
    4. the 2WD selector switch has a "4wd Auto" and "Lock". what is the difference between the "auto" and the "lock"?
    5. my aircon controller works but i noticed that even if i set the temp to 18deg C or 38 deg C, the temp is the same. also the recyle air and the fresh air switch is not working. How do i fix this?

    I called up SpeedLab last week and inquired about any Fuel Saving option for my Elgrand and they said there is none. they only have programs for specific vehicles. Are you connected with them?

    Regarding your advice last Sept 29, How do i block the EGR with a plate? what is a DIY catch can and where can I buy it? about the 2 stoke non synthetic motor oil, which brand do you recommend and how do i do it? should I just pour it in to mix with the engine oil?

    Thanks again & waiting for your help.

  4. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #44
    OD light is for the overdrive, its a higher gear for better fuel economy. Not to much reason to not keep the OD on unless your towing up a hill.

    The heat button, might be the heated seats, I don't have one as far as I know. But if it says heat you probably are not going to need it in the Philippines.

    Power snow button In snow mode, I initial acceleration is slower and more progressive than power mode for traction. Power mode if for quicker acceleration.

    no need for the snow mode and the power mode uses a bot more fuel but makes the van more responsive by reving higher before shifts. Most leave it in this mode. Snow mode useless in the Philippines.

    2WD keeps it in 2 wheel drive, 4wd auto will lock the differential if it detects the tires are slipping. 4WD will lock the diff for full time 4WD and your fuel economy will suffer in this mode.

    Sound like your aircon needs service, I would have the freon checked and make sure the compressor is working. Sometimes the conversion is not done correctly on the Aircon system of the van. I visited Port Irene in Feb and believe me not all those shops have good conversion crews working.

    Speedlab carries my product the Alcohol injection, It's really not for fuel savings but can give you better fuel economy. You can run strait water and get some nice power gains. It's for your vehicle to run cleaner and have more power. You'll pick up about 30hp with the kit and reduce your emissions around 80% making the vehicle run cooler and cleaner and last longer.

    example of power gained. There is a huge thread on it in the forum. This is on a Fortuner which has similar power to the elgrand but is a common rail. The gains will be around the same. The base Stage 1 boost activated kit is a good option for you.

    Example of power gains, this is a Fortuner which has similar power to the Elgrand.





    Speed lab can make the EGR plate and they carry oil catch cans. But if you look at my post about them you can find them at Ace hardware in the air compressor section. You can also just get a regular oil catch can, it might cost a bit more though. But any shop that can do simple welding can make a plate if make a templet of the EGR valve or bring it in to them to make it. Keeps your engine so much cleaner.

    The 2 stoke engine oil goes in the fuel tank not the engine oil. It provides extra lubercation to your injector pump and quiets down the engine. The cheap none sythetic oil works the best. 1 pint per full tank of fuel.

    Hope that helps out

  5. Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    28
    #45
    Hi Dvldoc,

    Regarding the motorcycle oil- what will be the effect of that on my fuel pump and filter? When do i put the oil, before filling or after fulltank? 1 pint is roughly half liter. is 1 pint enough for a 76 liter tank? do I have to do this everytime I get a full tank which is weekly? what will happen to the accumulated oil inside the fuel tank?

    Sorry for the many question? I am a layman and doesnt know anything about engines.

  6. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #46
    Quote Originally Posted by Ericgt View Post
    Hi Dvldoc,

    Regarding the motorcycle oil- what will be the effect of that on my fuel pump and filter? When do i put the oil, before filling or after fulltank? 1 pint is roughly half liter. is 1 pint enough for a 76 liter tank? do I have to do this everytime I get a full tank which is weekly? what will happen to the accumulated oil inside the fuel tank?

    Sorry for the many question? I am a layman and doesnt know anything about engines.
    You will add it after you fill the tank it mixes fairly easily. Yes you only need a pint.

    The keys are: 1:200 ratio. Use a mineral based 2T as sold for scooters/saws/mowers (cheaper the better !) etc and not the boat outboard motor stuff and not synthetic. Don't use it in engines built in / after 2007

    It add lubrication to your fuel pump and injectors helping extending there life. Most people will notice after the first tank that the engine will be quieter and smoother. The low sulfur diesel fuels used these days are missing a lot of the lubrication property of the higher sulfur content diesel fuel. I added it on my 1999 Starex and it was quieter after a fuel tank of fuel burnt and just ran better.

    I would not put it in a common rail vehicle due to different nature of their fuel pumps and high pressure.

  7. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #47
    Here is a great study of fuel additives for diesels. 2 stoke engine oil is right at the top of the list.

    http://www.johnfjensen.com/Diesel_fu...itive_test.pdf


    ALSO A CORRECTION TO ONE OF MY POST
    Light bulb for the aircon is a T4 Neowedge bulb not a T5

  8. Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    4
    #48
    i just got mine bought it at 370k with a rebate of 5k thru financing super lakas ng hatak nya and yung comfort riding nya e the best mas okey comfort nya kaysa exped, the conversion is perfect interior is great all buttons are funtioning well, engine is 3.2 turbo diesel, 8 seater due to captain sit on the middle with sunroof & moonroof great van!!!!!! sana magkaroon ng samahan ng mga elgrand owner!!!!!! by the way malilipat na yata sa bataan yung nasa port iriene cagayan kung gusto nyo po maayos na elgrand i refer to you my friend hes almost five vyears in the business right now he got wide variety of japanese car most specially elgrand you can txt me at 09052804073 kung gusto nyo ma view elgrand baka magustuhan nyo
    Last edited by mikael2718; October 10th, 2010 at 03:34 PM. Reason: add additional info

  9. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #49
    The above post smell like spam

    Anyways for you 3.0 Neo diesel owners this is important stuff for you to know, It can mean the difference in driving or having dead turbo or blown engine.

    The Neodiesels are prone to turbo failure mainly caused by having a bad MAF sensor that causes it to overfuel and overboost then the high exhaust gas temperatures frag the turbo.

    The turbo is a Garrett 705954-8 some of the big diesel shops might be able to help you our or someplace like Speedlab might know a place to send it for rebuild if this has already happened to you.

    This is a common problem with the ZD30DDTi engine. I suggest before you need to get it repaired or already need to invest in a exhaust gas temperature gauge and boost gauge for your van. I would also have the MAF sensor cleaned or replaced.

    The engine crankcase breather is connected to the air induction system on the intake side of the air flow meter. This means the meter gets fouled by fumes from the crankcase. The computer gets incorrect readings from the airflow meter and adjusts fuel and boost levels to the incorrect readings. Thus the boost goes astronomical. A simple manual boost controller can help keep this from ever happening.

    Some of the symptoms are things such as intercooler pipes sliding off, engine running rough, and higher than standard boost pressures.

    Installing a oil catch can with filter media in it a DIY oil catch can works better in this application.

    Helpful pdf for you 3.0 guys.
    http://users.on.net/~aschulze/ZD30/ZD30%20Y61%20Reference%20Document%20-%20BW.pdf

    This is the reason I went with the 3.2. But the if properly taken care of the Neodiesel should be fine. Get that MAF cleaned or replaced and a filtered oil catch can ASAP! You can make your own catch can from a air water separator for a air compressor. A green scrub pad works great for a filter on the inside.

    http://tsikot.yehey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72950
    http://www.pbase.com/rsrock/oil_catch_can
    Last edited by dvldoc; October 17th, 2010 at 04:11 AM.

  10. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #50
    Nissan part number for the 3.0 NEOdiesel turbo is (part# 705954) also shared with the Patrol with the same engine.

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Nissan ELGRAND who has one?