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  1. Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    3,346
    #11
    Sir,

    Mag Gas nalang kayo and convert it to LPG.
    iam3739.com

  2. Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    2,284
    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by goodfella View Post
    by the way, roughly how much will it cost to have a car imported? lets say i find an american who's selling his 300cd who's willing to sell it to me and ship it here, how much will the shipping/importing/taxes cost me?
    Forget it! By the time everything adds up its not gonna be worth it, not to mention the red tape youre gonna have to endure at the customs

  3. Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    17
    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by ronw123w124 View Post
    Forget it! By the time everything adds up its not gonna be worth it, not to mention the red tape youre gonna have to endure at the customs
    + 1 ...... it's not worth it....

    BUT.... if you have the "RIGHT" connections.... why not???...

  4. Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    7
    #14
    i know this question might be off topic, but, does anyone here know the fuel consumption rate of 230CE? 230C? 280CE? 280C? Does the 'E' in the badge mean that the car is more fuel efficient than the non E?

    and, how often do you guys need to have your diesel w123's calibrated? change oil? how much does calibration cost?

  5. Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    3,601
    #15
    The "E" means it's fuel injected. It has the mechanical Bosch injection system (forgot if it's K-Jetronic - Ron care to help me out here? ), while having no "E" as in 230C or 280C means it utilizes carbs. Usually, the fuel injected ones are more efficient, yes.

    For me, I've never had it calibrated. I consistently get the same MPG (except this time maybe, due to a fuel leak, but that's another matter). Change oil for my diesel is every 3000 miles or 3 months. Synthetic ones have been said to be able to go as high as 6000 miles maybe more. No idea on calibration cost, maybe the others would know (I'm based in the US).

    Fuel consumption rate of those cars? Check the link below. Sadly it's not complete with the carbed models (only the 200 was shown).

    http://www.geocities.com/siliconvall.../w123fuel.html

  6. Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    7
    #16
    wow, kumpleto yung page sa mga models ah ayos na po yun kahit wala yung carb models.... its just a little funny na parang reversed yung units nila, number of liters per fixed number of km

    hmmm... really? you've never had it calibrated? im not sure, but isnt calibration the service used to get diesel engines to burn clean? diba pag tumatagal nagiging smogger yung mga diesels, then when that time comes, you have to have it serviced (calibrate)? or what is this service called? and how often should it be done on w123 diesels?

    thanks for your responses pala guys, you've been really helpful

  7. Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    17
    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by mbeige View Post
    The "E" means it's fuel injected. It has the mechanical Bosch injection system (forgot if it's K-Jetronic - Ron care to help me out here? ), while having no "E" as in 230C or 280C means it utilizes carbs. Usually, the fuel injected ones are more efficient, yes.

    For me, I've never had it calibrated. I consistently get the same MPG (except this time maybe, due to a fuel leak, but that's another matter). Change oil for my diesel is every 3000 miles or 3 months. Synthetic ones have been said to be able to go as high as 6000 miles maybe more. No idea on calibration cost, maybe the others would know (I'm based in the US).

    Fuel consumption rate of those cars? Check the link below. Sadly it's not complete with the carbed models (only the 200 was shown).

    http://www.geocities.com/siliconvall.../w123fuel.html
    Pat,

    I reckon for 1984 models and below is either Bosch D or K Jetronic, while for 1985 models and up have the Bosch KE Jetronic..

    BR
    Francis

    goodfella,

    There's really no timeframe as to when you should calibrate a diesel engine, suffice to say that it all boils down to "proper" maintenance. Neglect a diesel engine of the essentials like fresh oil, new filters (fuel, air, oil), TLC.... and you're in for a lot of trouble.. or should I say a lot of expense.. For my 200D, I change oil plus oil filter and fuel pre-filter every 3 months, irregardless of mileage... Air filter change is every 4 months, while fuel filter is every 6 months.

    But sooner or later, all happy diesels must undergo calibration. Signs for a diesel engine in need of calibration would be, excessive fuel consumption, thick sooty smoke, and often times.. hard starting..

    Having your injectors checked at a local calibration shop if its up to specs is a good start... remember these cars (W123) are quite "classic" already. So a little off-spec reading should be expected..

    BR
    Francis

  8. Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    3,601
    #18
    Francis, thanks for the correction I need to brush up on my Bosch fuel management system for gasoline models hehe.

    By the way what exactly is done in a typical calibration back there? I keep hearing about it but never fully understood what it means. Timing is checked and adjusted to proper spec? Kasama ba valve adjustment? Pati rin ba injectors are calibrated to spec and replaced if they're bad (or just the nozzles perhaps)?

  9. Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    17
    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by mbeige View Post
    Francis, thanks for the correction I need to brush up on my Bosch fuel management system for gasoline models hehe.

    By the way what exactly is done in a typical calibration back there? I keep hearing about it but never fully understood what it means. Timing is checked and adjusted to proper spec? Kasama ba valve adjustment? Pati rin ba injectors are calibrated to spec and replaced if they're bad (or just the nozzles perhaps)?

    Hi Pat,

    Typically, calibration per se here means that you bring your IP and the nozzles to a reputable calibration shop for "calibration".. What they do is hook up the IP onto a calibrating machine and bench test its fuel delivery on various RPM's. Likewise, the injectors are also tested for fuel delivery and spray pattern. Adjustments are then made on the IP and injectors to attain specs required. If this is no longer attainable, nozzle tips and or plungers have to be replaced.

    Ideally, it should be the mechanic installing the IP who'll adjust the timing.. (am not too familiar with this myself)... so it really helps if the mechanic is "qualified"... or else, its just like shooting blanks... And a valve adjustment isn't a bad idea as well...

    BR
    Francis

  10. Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    3,601
    #20
    I see, thanks for the clarification Francis

    How did the valve adjustment go by the way?

    Oops getting OT already...

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MB W123 300CD in the Philippines?