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  1. Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    38
    #1
    Guys, baka matulungan nyo ko i have my problem matagal na sa failia 97 model (A/T). Everytime na ginagamit ko sya galing sa pahinga (min. of 5 hrs. rest) or park namamatay yung makina ko. Considering na kapapaadjust lang ng minor to 0.9 mga ilang araw lang baba nanaman ng minor sa 0.5 to 0.6 kaya hanggang ngayon ang baba ng minor ko. Pansin ko lang after gamitin ng 5 - 10 mins long run okay na takbo ang minor tumaas ng konti up to 0.8, napacheck ko na at palinis yung servo motor ganun pa rin ang sakit ng oto eh.

    Another problem is kapag naka open A/C ko ang tagal ng response ng brake kaya malimit di ko ginagamit A/C delikado kasi.

    Ano pa kaya pede ko pacheck? electrical? Alternator? help naman po. . . .

  2. Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    22,704
    #2
    Quote Originally Posted by KURTLANCE View Post
    Guys, baka matulungan nyo ko i have my problem matagal na sa failia 97 model (A/T). Everytime na ginagamit ko sya galing sa pahinga (min. of 5 hrs. rest) or park namamatay yung makina ko. Considering na kapapaadjust lang ng minor to 0.9 mga ilang araw lang baba nanaman ng minor sa 0.5 to 0.6 kaya hanggang ngayon ang baba ng minor ko. Pansin ko lang after gamitin ng 5 - 10 mins long run okay na takbo ang minor tumaas ng konti up to 0.8, napacheck ko na at palinis yung servo motor ganun pa rin ang sakit ng oto eh.

    Another problem is kapag naka open A/C ko ang tagal ng response ng brake kaya malimit di ko ginagamit A/C delikado kasi.

    Ano pa kaya pede ko pacheck? electrical? Alternator? help naman po. . . .
    Eliminate vacuum problems... check all of the hoses attached to the throttle body and vacuum canister for leaks.

    Raising the idle by the screw is the absolute last thing you should do... it covers up the problem momentarily, but with EFI cars, the computer will just readjust the idle back to whatever abnormal level it was beforehand.

    Unless your mechanic knows how to prevent the computer from readjusting (on Nissans, if I remember correctly, you had to disconnect the TPS... I don't know how to do this on Mazdas except by shorting the diagnostic port... which is as risky as it sounds...)... don't let him f*** around with the idle screw on an EFI car.

    Also check that your AC clutch is functioning well and that your accessory belts are the proper tension... but I suspect a vacuum leak is your problem given this weird set of symptoms.
    Last edited by niky; July 30th, 2009 at 01:36 PM.

    Ang pagbalik ng comeback...

  3. Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    325
    #3
    If your car is fuel injected, have your engine check at shops equipped with diagnostic scan tool. Don't let mechanics without using scan tool tamper or check the sensors using the usual kapa kapa, trial and error method or worse tantia meter. Bigger problem will occur once they do this since they will tell you to replace this and that without proper diagnosis. Others will tell you that the trouble lies on the ECU!

  4. Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    325
    #4
    If your car is fuel injected, have it check at shops equipped with proper diagnostic scan tool. Don't let anyone without this tool diagnose your car since they will resort to the usual kapa kapa,hula hula, trial and error method or worse, tantiameter style. More problem will occur since they will advise you to replace this and that without the proper diagnosis.

  5. Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    38
    #5
    nickriingen and niky thanks a lot for the immidiate response. I will try to check with mechanic the vacuum leak maybe this week end. And at the same time if idling problem is still present I will try schedule it to diagnostic scanner. One of my mechanic propose to bring it to Las Piñas at YOKOHAMA meron daw doon.


    nickriingen how much does it cost kaya yung Diagnostic scan? Or may mairecommend ka na merong ganitong tools/ equipment. Much better po malapit sa Laguna.

    Thanks. . .

  6. Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    22,704
    #6
    Shouldn't cost more than a thousand to 1.5k bucks... depending on the place.

    But if you're not throwing a code yet, go for the simple stuff... vacuum, throttle (though you've checked it already), and EGR. At worst, you might have to replace the idle control motor.

    Ang pagbalik ng comeback...

  7. Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    981
    #7
    was the car shaking? i mean does the rpm go down and the car shakes when you turn on the engine and turn on the aircon? when you turn right or left does the rpm go down? and the car shakes?

    these are classic problems of the mazda familia 90's series.

    if you are not a DIY person, try bring it to KIA Pasay. Or check mo www.mazdatech.org.

  8. Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    38
    #8
    OldSchoolHack,
    Correct. But the problem is I dont know exactly the KIA Pasay. Currently I am living here in Laguna. Can you give me the direction of your recommended shop? How long does it take while repairing the car? How much does it cost? Is there car parts for replacement during repair of this idling problem?

  9. Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    981
    #9
    I actually DIY mine and had help with the kanto talyer. Shaking was reduced to almost zero and the rpm stopped becoming erratic.

    Eto po ginawa ko.
    1. Linis air intake tube. It's the big pipe/rubber tube from the MAF (yung me electrical wires from the air filter box) to the throttle body. Linis mo na rin yung small vacuum tube attached to this. If you see signs of cracks or loose ends (luma na kasi, rubber pa yan) then replace it. Meron sa Mazford Banawe mga 750 pesos. Libre install pa. Yung small vacuum tube mga 250 pesos.
    2. Linis MAF (ingat baka masira), throttle body at replace air filter.Use spray type cleaners which leave no residue (pwede carb-choke cleaner. never tartan or wd40!!!!). If you have the money, have a talyer clean the servo. Except for the servo, madali lang yung MAF (spray do not touch masisira) at throttle body cleaning (spray and wipe lang). In fact naayos ko akin without having the servo cleaned.
    3. Clean with contact cleaner (wd40) the distributor rotor and distributor cap (both are at the end of the hi-tension wires from the spark/engine). If cracked or loose, then replace the distributor (or ignition) rotor. Sama mo na distributor cap. Distributor rotor meron sa Golden Isuzu-Mazda sa Pasay-Edsa malapit sa MRT. Distributor rotor mga 850 pesos. Cap ata 450.
    4. Replace the hi-tension wire and sparks. Normally naman you replace these from within 2 years.
    5. This part pinagawa ko sa talyer. Kung matagal na ginagamit mo yung kotse na nanginginig baka damaged na ang engine support. Have a talyer replace those (di ko kasi alam paano).

    Pag tapos na lahat at hindi na erratic idling mo then you now can clean the engine using a carb cleaner (read instruction nuon). After all bumili ka na rin lang nito to clean the MAF and throttle body might as well use it para sa loob ng engine malinis din.

    If you are not up to DIY then go to KIA Pasay.
    KIA Pasay - from EDSA going to Roxas you use the over pass turning left. The casa I believe is on the left after the cemetery. Paki check na lang.

  10. Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    38
    #10
    OldSchoolHack,
    Thanks for the advise maybe this weekend I will try to do your recommendatons. I hope this will work na. 1. Last year ko lang napalitan yung Engine support. Medyo di ko lang talaga kabisado pagpunta kia pasay. anyway thanks. . . .

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mazda familia 323 97 model - idling problem?