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  1. Join Date
    Mar 2020
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    15
    #1
    Hi everyone.

    Posting here because the other one didn't get any replies at all. New to the forums. Wanted to ask for some advice regarding my 2017 Mazda CX-3 AWD's battery. It has served me well, but I believe its battery may need changing soon. I got it August 2017, so it is due. Been doing some reading across different forums about changing the battery of the car.

    When I first got this, Mazda Alabang told me they've partnered up with Motolite to produce a special battery for its vehicles. I for one immediately call this BS marketing so I'll be forced to get a battery from them. Mazda customer care was quick to respond to my email earlier this morning. They said:

    Thank you for your reaching out and we hope you are well.

    The battery for your CX3 AWD is a special battery called Enhanced Flooded Battery (EFB) and can only be purchased thru authorized dealers.
    I refuse to believe this, but if there is a genuine reason for this, I want to hear it. Also, will this cost an arm and a leg? I know standard batteries hover around 5k - 7K.

    I have a few questions:

    1. If I go for other brands of batteries (ex. Panasonic, Bosch, Optima), what do I stand to lose? Just the i-Stop system from engaging, right? What other brands should I look at (only ones that are locally available please)
    2. Any other Mazda owner (who has an i-Stop system in their car) willing to share their experience?
    3. I've read online about Q85 batteries and AGM batteries. Are these the types of batteries that will work with the i-Stop system?

    Again, I really don't mind losing i-Stop functionality. I'm more concerned about the price-performance ratio and simple logic lol. I don't mind spending 6K or 7K every 2 years on the dot rather than spend 20K for a special battery that will need changing every 2 years and X months.

    Thanks!

  2. Join Date
    Dec 2017
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    #2
    It is recommended that you replace the battery with the same type, that is, EFB.

    I'll admit, I "cheated" as I'm using an ordinary battery at the moment. It was given by my friend for free so I can't complain. She said she'll replace it with an EFB once she gets one.

  3. Join Date
    Mar 2020
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    15
    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Archerfish View Post
    It is recommended that you replace the battery with the same type, that is, EFB.

    I'll admit, I "cheated" as I'm using an ordinary battery at the moment. It was given by my friend for free so I can't complain. She said she'll replace it with an EFB once she gets one.
    Hey, thanks for the heads up! Yeah, this was the battery type Mazda told me about, but I immediately brushed it off as marketing. I checked Motolite's website, and they recommend the Excel 1SM. Is this different from the one Mazda was talking about? I thought they partnered up with Motolite for batteries in the local market, since they imported expensive ones before?

    Pardon my ignorance to these things.

  4. Join Date
    Dec 2017
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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by the_secretary View Post
    Hey, thanks for the heads up! Yeah, this was the battery type Mazda told me about, but I immediately brushed it off as marketing. I checked Motolite's website, and they recommend the Excel 1SM. Is this different from the one Mazda was talking about? I thought they partnered up with Motolite for batteries in the local market, since they imported expensive ones before?

    Pardon my ignorance to these things.

    I was told that Mazda dropped Motolite. Going back to your question, as long as it's an EFB then you can go for it. Kindly confirm from them if it's​ an EFB. I've heard that an ordinary battery will work and I have confirmed it, I just don't know how long it will last.

    I recommend a trickle charger like CTEK for your new battery. Unfortunately, Blade online doesn't have them right now and other stores are way overpriced.

  5. Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    12,396
    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by the_secretary View Post
    Hey, thanks for the heads up! Yeah, this was the battery type Mazda told me about, but I immediately brushed it off as marketing. I checked Motolite's website, and they recommend the Excel 1SM. Is this different from the one Mazda was talking about? I thought they partnered up with Motolite for batteries in the local market, since they imported expensive ones before?

    Pardon my ignorance to these things.
    Mazda had an exclusive deal w/ Motolite to provide them w/ EnhancedFloodedBatts for a while at lower cost. Quality wasn't up to other locally available EFBs from the likes of YUASA(current Mazda supplier), Delkor & Panasonic.
    The Motolite 1SM recommendation might be for the Facelifted CX3s 2018+ w/o iStop.

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

  6. Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    4,725
    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by travajante View Post
    Mazda had an exclusive deal w/ Motolite to provide them w/ EnhancedFloodedBatts for a while at lower cost. Quality wasn't up to other locally available EFBs from the likes of YUASA(current Mazda supplier), Delkor & Panasonic.
    The Motolite 1SM recommendation might be for the Facelifted CX3s 2018+ w/o iStop.

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    what if you use an ordinary flooded battery, what will happen with i-stop feature? will the vehicle be able to "detect" that you are using an ordinary battery?

  7. Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by yapoy86 View Post
    what if you use an ordinary flooded battery, what will happen with i-stop feature? will the vehicle be able to "detect" that you are using an ordinary battery?
    In general....
    Batt dealers may void the nonEFB/AGM batt warranty on SSVs.

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

  8. Join Date
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by travajante View Post
    In general....
    Batt dealers may void the nonEFB/AGM batt warranty on SSVs.

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    So it means cars with SSV charging system is different? And can cause premature failure of regular battery

  9. Join Date
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by yapoy86 View Post
    So it means cars with SSV charging system is different? And can cause premature failure of regular battery
    They wouldn't have required EFBs & AGMs if regular flooded were enough. They have tested, of course...but you know us Pinoys.[emoji16]

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

  10. Join Date
    Mar 2020
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    15
    #10
    Thank you everyone for very insightful comments. Mazda rep replied to my email and confirmed it was the EFB they're going to replace my battery with is Yuasa, but it costs a ridiculous 14,500. For that price, I am really tempted to go with other alternatives because at the end of the day, it's not like the Yuasa will last significantly longer than a Motolite.

    I honestly don't use iStop anyway because I think it truly isn't built for Manila traffic jams. Other than motolite, are there any other brands that are more economical than the Yuasa? Somebody mentioned any type of EFB will be fine, right? Also, what is a trickle charger and how does it fit into the equation?

  11. Join Date
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by the_secretary View Post
    Thank you everyone for very insightful comments. Mazda rep replied to my email and confirmed it was the EFB they're going to replace my battery with is Yuasa, but it costs a ridiculous 14,500. For that price, I am really tempted to go with other alternatives because at the end of the day, it's not like the Yuasa will last significantly longer than a Motolite.

    I honestly don't use iStop anyway because I think it truly isn't built for Manila traffic jams. Other than motolite, are there any other brands that are more economical than the Yuasa? Somebody mentioned any type of EFB will be fine, right? Also, what is a trickle charger and how does it fit into the equation?
    Panasonic EFB is much cheaper. On trickle charger, this brand/model below is carried by BLADE....keeps your batt/s healthy longer. Read more...
    CT5 START/STOP

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

  12. Join Date
    Dec 2017
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by the_secretary View Post

    Also, what is a trickle charger and how does it fit into the equation?
    A battery must be maintained to make it last long. Even this so called "maintenance free" battery undergoes maintenance. That is, you need to charge it.

    When I was in-charge of maintaining the batteries, I have to check the individual slots for relative density, or specific gravity as they normally call it, and put the charger in "float mode". I also put it in "charge mode" once a month. These batteries are used as backups​ for radio and satellite communications, emergency lights, etc.

    For a car battery, the alternator is the one that is charging it. However, short trips and city driving will not be sufficient to charge the battery. This leads to shorter battery life.

    A trickle charger's​ job is help maintain the correct charge of the battery.

    I have the CTEK battery charger. I use it whenever the car is in the garage. There are other trickle chargers that are way cheaper than CTEK.

    You can read more about this topic here:

    Smart Car Battery Charger

  13. Join Date
    Apr 2020
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    7
    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Archerfish View Post
    It is recommended that you replace the battery with the same type, that is, EFB.

    I'll admit, I "cheated" as I'm using an ordinary battery at the moment. It was given by my friend for free so I can't complain. She said she'll replace it with an EFB once she gets one.
    Did you have to reset or reprogram after installing non-EFB? Or just plug and play the new battery and go? Am worried that something goes wrong if not reset or reprogram after install. What’s your experience?

  14. Join Date
    Dec 2017
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by uncle_sam View Post
    Did you have to reset or reprogram after installing non-EFB? Or just plug and play the new battery and go? Am worried that something goes wrong if not reset or reprogram after install. What’s your experience?
    It's plug and play. There is a procedure somewhere here on how to reset i-Stop posted by this guy,
    Quote Originally Posted by travajante View Post
    I'll take a look and post it if ever I find it.

    As I have mentioned, I got the battery free. Otherwise, I would have bought an EFB. Anyways, I should be getting the free EFB from my friend if not for the "CCP virus".

    I do not recommend that you use any battery unless it is an EFB. As I've said, I got the battery for free with a promise that it will be replaced once she has an available EFB.

  15. Join Date
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Archerfish View Post
    It's plug and play. There is a procedure somewhere here on how to reset i-Stop posted by this guy,


    I'll take a look and post it if ever I find it.

    As I have mentioned, I got the battery free. Otherwise, I would have bought an EFB. Anyways, I should be getting the free EFB from my friend if not for the "CCP virus".

    I do not recommend that you use any battery unless it is an EFB. As I've said, I got the battery for free with a promise that it will be replaced once she has an available EFB.
    iStop relearning DIY:

    1. Warm the engine up. Turn everything electrical off that you can - radio, A/C, lights, chargers, etc. Bring it close to electrical load.

    2. Switch the ignition off.

    3. Switch ignition to on but dont start engine. Long-press the i-stop OFF switch for 3 s within 5 s after switching the ignition ON.

    4. Start the engine.

    5. Press the i-stop OFF switch. Verify that the i-stop indicator light (green) flashes and stays flashing. If it does not flash, go back to Step 3.

    6. Allow the engine to idle for 10 minutes, or until the i-stop indicator light (green) turns off. Mine didnt stop flashing so after 10 minutes or so i just went to step 7.

    7. Switch the engine off. Wait a minute or two.

    8. Start the engine. Go for a drive, and check that the i-stop system operates normally. Those with i-stop will know that you may need to drive a mile or two until it activates. Remember that i-stop will not operate when (a) for diesels...when engines are in DPF regen mode, and (b) in those other conditions stated in the manual. Also, if a new battery was fitted, it may take some time for the new battery to fully charge up before i-stop will start working. Go for a decent drive so it gets fully charged.

    9. If i-stop operates as normal, reset 's done.

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

  16. Join Date
    Apr 2020
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    7
    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Archerfish View Post
    It's plug and play. There is a procedure somewhere here on how to reset i-Stop posted by this guy,


    I'll take a look and post it if ever I find it.

    As I have mentioned, I got the battery free. Otherwise, I would have bought an EFB. Anyways, I should be getting the free EFB from my friend if not for the "CCP virus".

    I do not recommend that you use any battery unless it is an EFB. As I've said, I got the battery for free with a promise that it will be replaced once she has an available EFB.
    Thanks Archerfish. I noted advice of travajante earlier. But I waited to check from other folks whether they had any problems if reset not done properly or not from casa. Will be prepared to risk using non-EFB with shorter batt life - just not use the I-Stop.

  17. Join Date
    Dec 2017
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by uncle_sam View Post
    Thanks Archerfish. I noted advice of travajante earlier. But I waited to check from other folks whether they had any problems if reset not done properly or not from casa. Will be prepared to risk using non-EFB with shorter batt life - just not use the I-Stop.
    These are the error messages I got before the battery went kaput:



    I had it for a month or so. I know I should have replaced the battery right away when I got the first warning, Battery Management, but I'm a bit "stubborn".

    I am somehow confident that I can "squeeze more juice" from the battery with the use of CTEK, as frequent as possible.

    Another thing, I always bring my super duper JumpStart kit. So if my battery decides to "commit suicide" at anytime, I can always start the car. Finally it said goodbye, together with the error warning from CTEK.


  18. Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    2,808
    #18
    Start-stop dumbest system ever. Sacrifices the longevity of your car and the comfort of the occupants, all to save a literal teaspoon of fuel. I blame unrealistic targets set by the EPA, CARB and the EU. Manufacturers are scrambling for every little bit of MPG they can get, even when the measures to get there are clearly detrimental to the car and customer.

  19. Join Date
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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.Kamiya View Post
    Start-stop dumbest system ever. Sacrifices the longevity of your car and the comfort of the occupants, all to save a literal teaspoon of fuel. I blame unrealistic targets set by the EPA, CARB and the EU. Manufacturers are scrambling for every little bit of MPG they can get, even when the measures to get there are clearly detrimental to the car and customer.
    at least it has an on/off switch.. if you don't want to use it.. simply turn it off. maybe manufacturers put that feature to satisfy the regulators.. of course they still want to sell their products to highly developed countries who require such features.

  20. Join Date
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    #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.Kamiya View Post
    Start-stop dumbest system ever. Sacrifices the longevity of your car and the comfort of the occupants, all to save a literal teaspoon of fuel. I blame unrealistic targets set by the EPA, CARB and the EU. Manufacturers are scrambling for every little bit of MPG they can get, even when the measures to get there are clearly detrimental to the car and customer.
    The greatest complaint I can say is the "fragile" paint of newer cars. According to the guys from the US, their Toyotas and Hondas have thin paints that it will crumble with a blow of wind!

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