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  1. Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    98
    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by redorange View Post
    Nice ride. Do you know that there is a Rota office in Hayward? So you don't have to wait until you go to the Philippines for the rims. Just watch the engine on that RX8 I have heard that some owners are having to get a complete engine change(courtesy of Mazda) because of leaks in the rotary seals. I wanted to buy one also but after hearing the seal problems I opted out of it.

    thanks, I'v already tried to contact subydude from fremont (rota dealer) but they don't have the color that I want black (gloss/flat)
    ...and the apex seals, I'm well aware of that problem. from my understanding, it only occurs to engines that build up to much carbon in the combustion chamber. and the easiest way to avoid it is to redline (past 9K but no more than 10K) your engine (under load) at least once a week to clean off all the carbon build up. I'm using a oil metering pump (OMP) adaptor to inject premix fluid (idemitsu rotary premix) into the combustion chamber which takes the place of the OEM oil injection system. This allows me to use synthetic. rotaries inject oil from the iol pan to the combustion chamber to lubricate the apex seals, this is wht you can't use synthetic oil 'cause syn doesn't burn completely, causing more build up. by installing an OMP adaptor and drawing premix fluid from an external reservoir, I can use syn oil and better lubricate the apex seals. I know it sound like a lot to deal with but rotaries are totally different engines compared to pistons. where ca you find a 1.3 liter displacement engine, non-turbo that can put out as much as a V-6 and rev it up to 10K

  2. Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    1,985
    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by d j View Post
    thanks, I'v already tried to contact subydude from fremont (rota dealer) but they don't have the color that I want black (gloss/flat)
    ...and the apex seals, I'm well aware of that problem. from my understanding, it only occurs to engines that build up to much carbon in the combustion chamber. and the easiest way to avoid it is to redline (past 9K but no more than 10K) your engine (under load) at least once a week to clean off all the carbon build up. I'm using a oil metering pump (OMP) adaptor to inject premix fluid (idemitsu rotary premix) into the combustion chamber which takes the place of the OEM oil injection system. This allows me to use synthetic. rotaries inject oil from the iol pan to the combustion chamber to lubricate the apex seals, this is wht you can't use synthetic oil 'cause syn doesn't burn completely, causing more build up. by installing an OMP adaptor and drawing premix fluid from an external reservoir, I can use syn oil and better lubricate the apex seals. I know it sound like a lot to deal with but rotaries are totally different engines compared to pistons. where ca you find a 1.3 liter displacement engine, non-turbo that can put out as much as a V-6 and rev it up to 10K
    Glad you won't be having the seal problems and too bad the dealer didn't have the rims you wanted. Maybe you should just contact Rota themselves in Hayward instead of using a dealer. I really like how that engine revs though and the shift action is also very short. Your partially right about the engine power for the displacement, although the typical conversion for out put on a rotary is to multiply by two the dispalcement to get the equivalent piston engine displacement.

  3. Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    98
    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by redorange View Post
    Glad you won't be having the seal problems and too bad the dealer didn't have the rims you wanted. Maybe you should just contact Rota themselves in Hayward instead of using a dealer. I really like how that engine revs though and the shift action is also very short. Your partially right about the engine power for the displacement, although the typical conversion for out put on a rotary is to multiply by two the dispalcement to get the equivalent piston engine displacement.
    yeah, I tried that and cosmic reffered me to subeydude. I was told that cosmic only distributes to shops/retailers.
    I (and other rotorheads) can argue all day on the displacement calculation but most sanctioning events would use the calculation method that you've mentioned.
    and as far as the shif throw, I have an AFE short shifter and is a lot more different from stock. little noisy due to the lack of insulation (you can hear the road nose from underneath but I used to daily drive a drift spec AE86 (8/6 spring rates plus heim joints everywhere=roughroughrough) so that doesn't bother me

  4. Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    1,985
    #14
    What did you do with the hatchi roku?

  5. Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    263
    #15
    to clean your engine,gas line,fuel system..use seafoam.works really good.just put 1 can in your gas tank when its almost empty and feed some thru your VAC lines(i normally use 1 can for the VAC hose too).your exhaust will then dump all white,thick smoke which is all the carbon buid up in your engine.use it for your oil too right before changing oil.
    for your rims,id stick with the stock rims and just have them powder coated black.just make sure you have it done by some PRO's so itll cook right and wont make the rims brittle and crack.

  6. Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    98
    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by redorange View Post
    What did you do with the hatchi roku?
    I still have it... it's my dedicated track/drift car. as soon as winter clears out, I'll start my rotary swap, I have a spare 13b from a friend that I've equipped with side draft keihin carbs and a megasquirt/jolt stand alone sys. I dunno if the I can keep the cf driveshaft that I have from the T50 toyota tranee but we'll see.

    deedee, thanks for the recommendation... I've been using seafoam green on most of my cars but I doubt that I need to do that on my renesis since it's a fairly new engine (40K m). for now I'll stick w/ the idemistu rotary premix and the occassional redline treatment. and as far as my rims, it's already painted black. I'd keep the stock wheels but I needed something wider and has a lower offset; And the Rota's will be perfect for the job. I already have a buyer for the stockers, it's going to a friend's mazda 6.

  7. Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    1,310
    #17
    Whoa, that car's just sweeeeeeeet, mate! Welcome to Tsikot!

  8. Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    98
    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Alpha_One View Post
    Whoa, that car's just sweeeeeeeet, mate! Welcome to Tsikot!
    thanks and thanks!!

  9. Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    98
    #19
    <<<<< U P D A T E >>>>>

    ...I painted my calipers and wheels this past weekend





  10. Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    98
    #20
    bump for updates...

    new set of wheels , silicone coolant hose, new water pump (improved impeller design), Evans NPG-R waterless coolant, braille auto batt (carbon fiber casing) + billet mount kit






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