All New Isuzu MU-X // Alterra Next Generation

[boybit1]

Of course pwede iakyat. Wag mong baby hin yung engine. Otherwise hindi na tatakbo ng maganda yan usually ang mga car ko pag break in tinatakbo ko ng 120 or up pa but not steady meaning running randomly at any speed for a few seconds. Car engine these days are fitted to a almost perfect tolerance. Kaya dont need to break in as car before

[lery24]

Of course pwede iakyat. Wag mong baby hin yung engine. Otherwise hindi na tatakbo ng maganda yan usually ang mga car ko pag break in tinatakbo ko ng 120 or up pa but not steady meaning running randomly at any speed for a few seconds. Car engine these days are fitted to a almost perfect tolerance. Kaya dont need to break in as car before

Salamat po. gusto ko na sanag mag break in, kaso wala pang unit. hehe

[Newcomer123]

^ LOL! Sweet!

[joemarski]

^ ^ tsk! tsk! tsk! matinding offense 'yan...

"Driving without a vehicle." :hysterical:

[LancerA174A]

Yes mineral oil is still best for break in. Isuzu multi z oil ang gamit ng ayala group which is not a fully synth oil. Re atf and differential oils mas gusto ko na palitan nila lahat para sigurado na bago. The bulk of the cost is the engine oil namam not the diff and atf. Isuzu also says they use break in oils for these prior the 1.5k pms. Pareho lang ang mga filters ngayon halos lahat element na. if i remember ot right pareho lang pms cost ko compared to my 2012 ranger and 2011 strada and 2014 dmax. Same same and isuzu changed all the fluids pa. So muuch better for me.

Sir may effect ba kung synthetic agad? Nabasa ko rin po sa SF3 thread ok rin mineral oil muna. Mukhang napamahal pa tuloy kami.

[StockEngine]

Downside lng...nabawasan lng pera pang fuel. Lol

[simon16f]

noob... question lang po, kaelangan pa bang i rust proofing yung unit pag labas ng kasa or eto ay owners option lang po. kasi sa bank po prang hndi nman nila ni require, pero sa nabasa ko yung mga in house prang kasama sa babayaran nila...

[Syuryuken]

yung dyip lang may breakin period dapat hindi lalagpas ng 60kph

[LancerA174A]

noob... question lang po, kaelangan pa bang i rust proofing yung unit pag labas ng kasa or eto ay owners option lang po. kasi sa bank po prang hndi nman nila ni require, pero sa nabasa ko yung mga in house prang kasama sa babayaran nila...

Tinanong ko po yung SA namin bago namin kuhanin, naka rust proof na daw po sa factory. Pero ok rin po siguro kung ipapa rust proof niyo sa labas.

[babybackrivs]

Sir may effect ba kung synthetic agad? Nabasa ko rin po sa SF3 thread ok rin mineral oil muna. Mukhang napamahal pa tuloy kami.

Okay kaya kung lagi na lang kami mineral oil for our SF? Kung every 5k ang PMS?

[bokista]

Okay kaya kung lagi na lang kami mineral oil for our SF? Kung every 5k ang PMS?

as long as yung naka state sa manual pwede ung viscosity ng oil, api rating ng oil. i think pwede ang mineral oil as long as stated sa owner's manual.

[elouie]

Tinanong ko po yung SA namin bago namin kuhanin, naka rust proof na daw po sa factory. Pero ok rin po siguro kung ipapa rust proof niyo sa labas.

Oo nga, good question... do you still need the Rust Proofing? Hindi ba default na rust proof na ang bagong sasakyan? I remember sa Toyota ko, I never had it rest proofed and no issue/s naman....

[babybackrivs]

as long as yung naka state sa manual pwede ung viscosity ng oil, api rating ng oil. i think pwede ang mineral oil as long as stated sa owner's manual.

Nakakahinayang kasi na after 5k pinapalitan yung oil eh kaya pa naman siyang umabot ng 10k, pero nakakatakot rin na baka mas bagay ang synthetic, tapos yung mineral makakasama pala sa engine

[yandrei]

6,000+ inabot.. replaced engine oil, oil filter at differential oil..

thanks!

[Newcomer123]

Of course pwede iakyat. Wag mong baby hin yung engine. Otherwise hindi na tatakbo ng maganda yan usually ang mga car ko pag break in tinatakbo ko ng 120 or up pa but not steady meaning running randomly at any speed for a few seconds. Car engine these days are fitted to a almost perfect tolerance. Kaya dont need to break in as car before

Agree. Factory-made vehicles are constructed to exact specs already, and before a unit is released, it undergoes dynamometer testing to gauge attainment of maximum performance. Otherwise, back to the factory it goes for re-tuning.

Only rebuilt engines require strict breaking-in to hone the new parts together, as residue metal scrapings would have to be removed via oil and filter change.

[extrastrongbeer]

Sirs,

I am also on the lookout for a family SUV and is eyeing either this Mu-X, the all New Fort or the all new Ford Everest.

Scratched TBZ off my list, a co-employee owns one, he said its really powerful and torquey, but had to wait for far longer time (and still waiting) for the parts to arrive onshore.


This is what Bruce Garland who drives Isuzu Ute D-Max vehicles in the Paris Dakar Rally has to say about the 4JJ1-TC engine:


“That engine is the same engine we use in the Dakar, only then it’s tuned to about 95% of how far they can push it (we bring it a little back so it’s more durable) to about 195kW and 600Nm. So when they detune it to pull down-low, it just makes it incredibly durable and reliable at 130kW.”

Also, its was mentioned in a magazine article that this 3.0 litre engine is B10-rated. The magazine article goes on to explain that this is industry speak and means that 90% of the engines will do an estimated 500,000 kms; one hopes one doesn't end up with one from the 10% of those who don't quite get to 500,000 kms.

[DieselInfitiny]

sir *extrastrongbeer, on TBZ, was there any detail by your co-employee as to what parts he/she had to wait and continue to wait on?

Am on the same situation as you are... though deciding for an mux or TBZ in my case.

Thanks.

[DieselInfitiny]

sir *extrastrongbeer, on TBZ, was there any detail by your co-employee as to what parts he/she had to wait and continue to wait on?

Am on the same situation as you are... though deciding for an mux or TBZ in my case.

Thanks.

[LancerA174A]

Sirs,

I am also on the lookout for a family SUV and is eyeing either this Mu-X, the all New Fort or the all new Ford Everest.

Scratched TBZ off my list, a co-employee owns one, he said its really powerful and torquey, but had to wait for far longer time (and still waiting) for the parts to arrive onshore.


This is what Bruce Garland who drives Isuzu Ute D-Max vehicles in the Paris Dakar Rally has to say about the 4JJ1-TC engine:


“That engine is the same engine we use in the Dakar, only then it’s tuned to about 95% of how far they can push it (we bring it a little back so it’s more durable) to about 195kW and 600Nm. So when they detune it to pull down-low, it just makes it incredibly durable and reliable at 130kW.”

Also, its was mentioned in a magazine article that this 3.0 litre engine is B10-rated. The magazine article goes on to explain that this is industry speak and means that 90% of the engines will do an estimated 500,000 kms; one hopes one doesn't end up with one from the 10% of those who don't quite get to 500,000 kms.

You can wait naman sir, but the local availability of the 3.0 VGS is still vague. Sana madetune na nila pang Euro II sabay dating ng all new Fort/Everest. Or better yet mapaaga yung Euro IV compliance ng PH.

If only we could get info about the 4JK1-TC (Hi) brought here. Sana ganyan din siya ka reliable.

[HUMABOL KA]

watdapak i finally saw how the mux runs in nlex and it was really fast, galing kami angeles city using our isuzu crosswind xuv kanina and on our way home sa nlex i was running at 140 kph then suddenly i saw an approaching vehicle(it was approaching really fast) at my rear view mirror(while running 140 kph) tapos bumubuntot lang cia tapos biglang naging free sa right lane dun siya umovertake and to my surprise it was an isuzu MUX(it was the base model) and then biglang may innova na humahabol sa kanya pero pag sudden acceleration ng isuzu mux naiiwan c innova, i think it can really match the 3.0 fortuner in terms of acceleration ganun na ganun dn mga 3.0 d4d umovertake parang wala lang hehehe