ang tagal mag start ng honda esi 94 ko.

[hammerofgod]

mga sirs,

ask ko lang kong na experience nyo na tong problema ko sa esi ko. pag umaga, ang tagal mamatay ng check engine nya. it takes around 3 to 4 minutes bago sya mamatay at bago sya mag start. pag naka ilaw pa, ayaw din mag start. pero once na uminit na yung engine, ok na sya. one click lang.

i had the car tuned up na.
i had the ect changed already, ganun pa din.
i had the ecu diagnosed, ayos naman ang computer box nya.
i had the fuel pump and filter changed na din.

ngayon naman yung distributor naman daw ang problema.

hope you guys could help me.

thanks in advance

[babang09]

mga sirs,

ask ko lang kong na experience nyo na tong problema ko sa esi ko. pag umaga, ang tagal mamatay ng check engine nya. it takes around 3 to 4 minutes bago sya mamatay at bago sya mag start. pag naka ilaw pa, ayaw din mag start. pero once na uminit na yung engine, ok na sya. one click lang.

i had the car tuned up na.
i had the ect changed already, ganun pa din.
i had the ecu diagnosed, ayos naman ang computer box nya.
i had the fuel pump and filter changed na din.

ngayon naman yung distributor naman daw ang problema.

hope you guys could help me.

thanks in advance

Same problem with my ESI 95'.

Replaced my main relay, pero ganun pa rin...


Help...

[EGcoolmhan]

check your wirings and your ECU(as in buksan niyo). baka lumubo ng capacitor dun sa ECU...ganyan nangyari sakin.


then ok na.

[p_borj]

mga sirs,

ask ko lang kong na experience nyo na tong problema ko sa esi ko. pag umaga, ang tagal mamatay ng check engine nya. it takes around 3 to 4 minutes bago sya mamatay at bago sya mag start. pag naka ilaw pa, ayaw din mag start. pero once na uminit na yung engine, ok na sya. one click lang.

i had the car tuned up na.
i had the ect changed already, ganun pa din.
i had the ecu diagnosed, ayos naman ang computer box nya.
i had the fuel pump and filter changed na din.

ngayon naman yung distributor naman daw ang problema.

hope you guys could help me.

thanks in advance

I don't think na distributor yan. Sino nagsabi nun? Masasabi mong distributor ang problem kung for example eh nagbukas ka ng headlights at aircon and then namatay engine mo. Or humihina ang hatak ng esi mo pag maraming electrical load (radio on, wipers on etc).

Feel free to add comments tsikoteers!

although hindi ko rin masabi kung ano problem ng honda esi mo. so in short, pag cold start hirap kang mag-start. Hope someone may help you. Good luck.

[Diesel_Torque]

Palagay ko meron yan loose contact pag malamig or more than 8Hrs na nkatigil/park, meron hndi naddetect ung ECU or contact pag malamig pa then pag mainit na nagkakaroon na ng contact. Try to used contact cleaner sa mga socket mo going to ECU and some important parts.

Ganyan din sakin tagal mag-start sa umaga with more than 8hrs nka-park sa Calamba pa yun besides Mt. Makiling ung place ko na pinaparadahan, every Morning may hamog tsk-tsk-tsk, almost 30mins ako nagreregundo buti na lang malakas Battery ko. pero pag nka-start na. hope this will help. my ESi is 94 model pa orig Engine pa rin non-vtech still in the streets pa rin top-overhaul pa lang ang major na nagawa refacing cylinderhead.

[speed unlimited]

mga sirs,

ask ko lang kong na experience nyo na tong problema ko sa esi ko. pag umaga, ang tagal mamatay ng check engine nya. it takes around 3 to 4 minutes bago sya mamatay at bago sya mag start. pag naka ilaw pa, ayaw din mag start. pero once na uminit na yung engine, ok na sya. one click lang.

i had the car tuned up na.
i had the ect changed already, ganun pa din.
i had the ecu diagnosed, ayos naman ang computer box nya.
i had the fuel pump and filter changed na din.

ngayon naman yung distributor naman daw ang problema.

hope you guys could help me.

thanks in advance

Iyong distributor sa loob may magnetic coil iyon ang nagbibigay ng current , Pa check mo na lang kasi kung mahina na iyong coil sa loob ganyan mangyayari at pagsira na magreredondo lang pero hindi aandar. Tawag nga pala nila rito igniter type iyong coil . Hindi kagaya sa ibang makina nasa labas iyong coil. Pa check mo rin ang timing ng makina baka wala sa ayos.

[babang09]

check your wirings and your ECU(as in buksan niyo). baka lumubo ng capacitor dun sa ECU...ganyan nangyari sakin.


then ok na.

Sir baka alam mo kung anong mga wires or fuses na related dito sa prob namin ang dapat matingnan. I'll check my ECU.

[chaesi]

mga sirs ganyan di nangyari sa esi94 namin, ecu, contact socket ng distributor ang sira kaya di matanggal check engine, hanggang ngayon di pa naayos, ask ko lang po kung meron kayong alam na puede makuhanan ng parts... hirap maghanap. thanks.

[lui11]

timing yan boss. o kaya starter.

[ben_david19]

it's either too much advanced or retard timing.

[djhao79]

timing yan boss. o kaya starter.

got d same problem with my honda esi 94 matic EFI PH16 engine. At first, d ko agad bngyan pansin yung hard starting lalo na sa umaga or may time naman na pagfill up ng gas or short dstance driving then off the engine, hirap ako mgstart.. Kako..tolerable pa hangga't nkkpag-start (since Nov '09 until dis month), I had to pump up the acclerator pedal or turn off d ignition key 4 about 3-5 mins ska q tyempuhan i-start ulit. Although nai-address q n un problem sa mechanic q dati or nitong May lang, he said mukhang nanganganib nga yung ignition coil or fuel pump kya icheck nya daw but told him..next time na lng hangga't yaka pa hehehe...out of budget ako that time and besides my mechanic prefers to provide the parts instead aq ang mgdala. Sayang din kc ung mark-up nya sa pyesa (could be ignition coil and/or fuel pump), pwedeng pambayad n lng s labor or may sukli p aq sa loob-loob ko kako sige next time na lang at ipon lng budget (kttapos q lng kc mgpa engine overhaul sa knya) at saka feeling q d rin dun mismo sa ignition coil or fuel pump ang tlagang problema (kutob q lang po...buti nlng me forum dito at dami aq ntutunan!).

Then, last Saturday lng, mas grabe naexperience q....hirap tlaga mgstart at panay crank or redondo lang, ayaw tumuloy mgstart. I tried so hard..mga 20mins din before aq nkapag start, then drove off to our clubhouse around 6pm then stayed until 11pm. So I went home a couple of minutes after and parked d car in my garage. Then Sunday noon....my car doesn't start at all, it just cranks but no matter how I tried, tlagang ayaw nya. I even tried to jumped it up w/ my neighbor's car baka kako low batt lng but to no avail.

Just last Monday morning, nagpa-home service aq s isa pang mechanic na referred sa kin at hindi rin taga sa presyo. He tried to test d sparks/ignition...OK, me sparks nman. Fuel tank bnuksan nya and even pulled-out the pump and tested it directly to my car's battery...working naman at nakita q yung filter na nkakabit ata s pump or tank...malinis nmn. Besides, kapapalit q lng din ng metal fuel filter (japan replacement) last April so I doubt na one of the culprits yun. Then...traced d fuel electrical connections..no luck! walang daloy ng kuryente hnggang dumako xa sa last resort....ECU problem. Pg-open nya ng kaha (fr/bk cover), may mga corrosion yung capacitors. That's why walang ngssupply ng gas fuel injector dhil s ecu damaged. So he recommended na either change the ecu or bahala n daw aq kung may mkita aq n mrerepairan ng ecu. So he stopped the diagnosis and left kako give me time to look 4 replacement or parepair q if merong ngrerepair ippatawag q nlng xa if ever. Again, my pocket seems empty hehehe...kaya I researched over the net kung saan ang at mgkno yung ecu repair or mga surplus. From what I have gathered...pag surplus, price ranges from 9k-12k, meron pa ngang 18-25k (kakalula preyo hehehe!) at meron ding replacement direct fr taiwan at isi-ship sana sa akin, 6.5k + 1.3k for d courier fee but I hold it off muna hangga't d aq mkhanap ng mgrrepair. Luckily, nakakita nman aq dto s forum kaso may kmhalan eh halos kapresyo ng surplus.Then may nkausap dn aq techncian fr Pque at Pasig...mejo pricey konti pero ok lng din. At parang gusto q yung mas mlapit sa akin at willing mag home service para in case may problema o sira mddiagnose pa on d spot. Thanks God!! I found one, coincidentally he is just 4kms away at ngho-home service plus d fact that he is also an auto-electrician as well kya swerte q kako. He repaired my ecu and main relay. Voila!! my car is running again. The damaged just cost me 2.5k (incl. labor and parts w/ 6-mos. warranty). It saved me a couple of bucks on my pocket. super cheap and convenient pa. I felt so much relieved. Well, it really pays off to be resourceful and practical. I've learned my lessons the hard way and I wanted to share this experience with you. Somehow help you in a way. BTW, lady-driver po aq and also, would like to thank this website/forum for all the insights and ideas coz I've learned a lot and it helps more on newbies like me. More power! tnx so much!

[j_gasmen]

miss djhao79,

may contact number ka ba nung nnagrepair sa ecu mo? same with me kasi naging problem ko. almost 3 months na na hindi umaandar ang esi ko dahil sa ecu prob.

[Nuebe Siete]

Sa sensor yan.mahirap hanapin yan.madami sensor.no choice ako nun kaya pinadiagnose ko sa honda at sa sensor nga ng distributor yata.yun mekaniko kasi nun,ginalaw nya sa part dun e naputol nya isang manipis na wire sa sensor.dinikit niya.pero wala ganun pa din kaya pinapalitan ko na sa honda.about 3th plus.

[djhao79]

miss djhao79,

may contact number ka ba nung nnagrepair sa ecu mo? same with me kasi naging problem ko. almost 3 months na na hindi umaandar ang esi ko dahil sa ecu prob.

Hi sorry now ko lang nabasa ang post mo.

here's his contact number:

0909-7172174

Tell him na narefer kita (Fannie from Citta Italia Subd). Ask mo din sya if kaya nyang maghome repair sa inyo. Kasi ang alam ko ang kaya lang nyang i-home service within our area lang. Kung malapit ka lang naman dito sa amin, much better kasi maghohome service sya sau. Pacheck mo na din pati ang relay mo, nung una nga yung computer box lang yung nirepair nya den nung iniinstall na nya after d repair, ayaw pa rin gumana. Then he checked the MAIN RELAY, hayun pagbukas nya may busted ICs na rin kaya nirepair na rin nya.

Goodluck bro!!!

[dr. d]

ah! an intermittent! good luck.
i was told intermittents are either loose connection or poor capacitors. the ICs seldom malfunction, but the capacitors outside them, do.. and since it takes a lot of time and patience to hunt them down, the faster way is to replace the entire assembly completely.
hindi naman siguro ondoy car yan? with ondoy, all bets are off.

[j_dipad]

ganito din problema ng kotche ko ngayon.same model ng kotche.
pero once na mgstart na siya.mga 30mins na nkastart lang.tapos kapag isstart mo ulit,ok na.back to normal na.3 to 5 sec na bago mawala ulit CEL.

pero kapag matagal na naka parada kotche ko mga more than 8hours. yun.tagal ulit mawala CEL. mga 2 to 3 mins depende.tsk.

ippacheck ko ecu ko.baka nga may mga nasira na capactiors.sana yun lng problema.

[ericbalajadia]

Have the engine scanned for P codes. Usually, the codes will point what sensor/s or circuit/s causes the problem.

[j_dipad]

Have the engine scanned for P codes. Usually, the codes will point what sensor/s or circuit/s causes the problem.

sir walang code nilalabas yung ecu ko.kapag naka start na din naman yung car ko hindi na din naman umiilaw yung CEL.

matagal lang talaga mawala yung CEL kapag mga 8hours na naka parada yung kotche ko.

[CivicVTi]

ganito din problema ng kotche ko ngayon.same model ng kotche.
pero once na mgstart na siya.mga 30mins na nkastart lang.tapos kapag isstart mo ulit,ok na.back to normal na.3 to 5 sec na bago mawala ulit CEL.

pero kapag matagal na naka parada kotche ko mga more than 8hours. yun.tagal ulit mawala CEL. mga 2 to 3 mins depende.tsk.

ippacheck ko ecu ko.baka nga may mga nasira na capactiors.sana yun lng problema.

Most likely its a dying battery. Pag matagal kasi nakapark, mabilis sya magdiskarga. May tama na ang isa o dalawang plates sa loob.

Pag umaandar ang makina, narerecharge naman sya at lumalakas...the reason kung bakit nawawala kaagad ang CEL. Nadedetect kasi na nasa tamang charge yung battery kung kagagaling lang sa extended idling.

[j_dipad]

Most likely its a dying battery. Pag matagal kasi nakapark, mabilis sya magdiskarga. May tama na ang isa o dalawang plates sa loob.

Pag umaandar ang makina, narerecharge naman sya at lumalakas...the reason kung bakit nawawala kaagad ang CEL. Nadedetect kasi na nasa tamang charge yung battery kung kagagaling lang sa extended idling.

sa tingin ko hindi sa battery to sir.bago pa battery ko eh.tska malakas.