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  1. Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    234
    #1
    On my 97 Accord, everytime the aux and rad fans turn on (with the AC off) i notice my headlights dim and the engine slightly shudders. It's like the fans put a sudden load on the system and I get a voltage sag.

    Now, my battery is less than a year old and my alternator is "ok", it gives a voltage reading of 13.9V at idle (~750RPM) with no load.

    I was wondering ... Can I use the capacitors used for audio setups in the same way one would use a Pivot Raizin Voltage Stabilizer to counter the voltage sag?

    They look like they are connected in a similar way, Cap + to Battery + (to Amp +) and Cap - to ground.



    While the Raizin is connect + to + and - to - terminals between the unit and the battery.

    If I take one of the Capacitors used in audio setups and wire it the same way as a Raizin, would the Capacitor have the same effect/benefit as the more expensive Raizin? Or would I end up burning my car down?

  2. Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    234
    #2
    anyone? before my curiosity gets the best of me and I do something stupid

  3. Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    234
    #3
    dum dee dum dee dum ....

  4. Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    5,576
    #4
    I think you'd get more kick by upgrading the Big 3. This is assuming that the alternator is still ok and is providing more power than any accessory in your car can draw.

    Caps may be able to help sound systems since the instantaneous current draw are usually very short (usually in milliseconds). But for the aux fan + headlight combo? I wouldn't think so. The aux fans in particular draw a lot of power when spinning up, and it will take anywhere from a second to several seconds for it to stabilize.

    Upgrading the Big 3 is your likely bet.

    I might add that to some extent, car wirings and/or their connections may develop corrosion that will affect current delivery to loads. In other words, a wire's resistance may increase over time and this usually affects accessories which draws a lot of current. Relay contacts may also wear out to a degree that will increase resistance to the circuit.
    Last edited by oj88; May 14th, 2011 at 11:49 AM.

  5. Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    3,527
    #5
    A capacitor won't really fix your dimming. A cap is normally used in car audio since bass notes need alot of power, thus you see yourself dropping from 13.9V to, let's say, 12V in just a second. With that, you'll see your headlight dim and then return back to normal.

    Cost-wise, first do the Big Three upgrade. This would lessen the resistance around your electrical system. Its analogy is like a garden hose versus a bigger garden hose. Given the same flow, the bigger garden hose has less pressure thus is able to flow more easily. If you're idling at 13.9V, you'd probably idle around 14.3V afterwards.

    Alternatively, you can always invest in HID kits. Since projectors costs so much, you're better off slapping them on and then reaiming the headlights as to not blind incoming motorists. Not sure how big the difference between 35W versus 55W would fix your problem though.

    Question: Do you have a car audio installed? If you have, you're better off getting a second battery (Stinger SPV20) since sobrang lapit lang ng price sa mga branded capacitors.

  6. Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    234
    #6
    I have the big 2 :P ... I'm missing the battery positive to the alternator positive ... didn't realize I needed it until you guys mentioned it.

    I do have a very humble amp setup, it's no power hungry monster, it's just enough to drive my seps and sub. It isn't the culprit as I observe the dimming just the same as when the stereo is on or off.

    For the battery positive to the alternator positive connection, what gauge of wire and fuse rating would you recommend?
    I read somewhere that the fuse rating should be a match to the wire gauge.


    Thanks sa replies!

Headlights dimming - caps and volt stabs