Mineral , semi synthetic or fully synthetic?

[miko101130]

Mobil products guide with reference to Zinc, Phosphorus content and ratings...

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf

[Retz]

most vehicles with EGR are comfortable with CI-4 oils... masyado na kasi luma CF-4... usually mga old school diesel engines ang gumagamit pa CF-4... mura kasi price ng CF-4.... hindi pa magawang obsolete ang CF-4 kasi madameng old engines ang gumagamit pa nito...

In third world countries, more than 50% of oil consumption is still on CF-4 categories... imagine the amount of oil used by mining, agricultural, heavy construction equipment, and other off-highway machines...

Sir, kapag mga modern CRDi engine at least CH-4 ba ang recommended? or CI-4 na?

[Retz]

Among the API CH-4 rated diesel engine oils, how do you rank Delo Gold, Rimula R3 X and Castrol GTX? and speaking of Castrol, hindi ba talaga magandang brand ito may nababasa kasi akong comment na prone sa sludge formation ito.

[miko101130]

Sir, kapag mga modern CRDi engine at least CH-4 ba ang recommended? or CI-4 na?

definitely at least CI-4... suitable to EGR systems and lots of TBN to fight the acidity produced by sulfur in fuel and also provide better emissions...

pero pag super modern diesel engines like those with higher emissions na kung anu anu... SCR/DPF/ etc, CJ-4 is best suited...

[Ry_Tower]

Among the API CH-4 rated diesel engine oils, how do you rank Delo Gold, Rimula R3 X and Castrol GTX? and speaking of Castrol, hindi ba talaga magandang brand ito may nababasa kasi akong comment na prone sa sludge formation ito.

I'd rank Shell R3X higher, then Delo Gold. Better Ash, Zinc, Pho and TBN kasi Shell R3X & mas mura ng Shell R3X actually eh vs Delo Gold kung sa gas station ka bibili. Castrol GTX last for me.

[Retz]

I'd rank Shell R3X higher, then Delo Gold. Better Ash, Zinc, Pho and TBN kasi Shell R3X & mas mura ng Shell R3X actually eh vs Delo Gold kung sa gas station ka bibili. Castrol GTX last for me.

Okay, thanks sir ry_tower. noted.

[Retz]

"and are intended for use with diesel fuels ranging in sulfur content up to 0.5% weight."

I often see the above phrase in API rating. Is 0.5% weight equivalent to 500ppm?

[s10pao]

If FS gagamitin, siyempre mas maganda protection at performance nyan, plus pwede for extended oil changes... dahil sa custom made ang base oil nang FS which is 90% of the total oil volume. Resistant ang FS sa oil oxidation at mas matagal talaga ma degrade ang mga additive package as compared to group III and below base oil...

when i say FS, i mean the Group IV base oils, the PAO.... kaso ang mahal kasi nang mga FS na PAO based... nasa 600 pesos pataas per liter.... parang overkill kase... unless you torture your engine in cases liked drag racing, circuit lapping, extreme towing or off-roading...

sir how about idemitsu? kasama ba sya sa Group IV base oils? TIA.

[Retz]

^

Sir, tama ba pagkaintindi ko sa group base oils?

Group II - Mineral
Group III - Semi Synthetic
Gorup IV (PAO) - Full Synthetic

[miko101130]

^

Sir, tama ba pagkaintindi ko sa group base oils?

Group II - Mineral
Group III - Semi Synthetic
Gorup IV (PAO) - Full Synthetic

yes sir.. correct po kayo... Idemitsu japan is PAO based... maganda din oil nila... for gasolines

[Ry_Tower]

yes sir.. correct po kayo... Idemitsu japan is PAO based... maganda din oil nila... for gasolines

Unioil pala distributor nila dito sa Pinas. Actually affordable din for gas engines yang idemitsu oils.

"and are intended for use with diesel fuels ranging in sulfur content up to 0.5% weight."

I often see the above phrase in API rating. Is 0.5% weight equivalent to 500ppm?

yes tama.

[Retz]

^

thank you sirs.

OT:
For old school diesel engine, I was told before that when starting it cold, we must let the engine idle and let it warm-up for 2-3 mins before shifting gears and floor the gas pedal. Does this holds true with modern CRDi engines?

[crazy_boy]

^

thank you sirs.

OT:
For old school diesel engine, I was told before that when starting it cold, we must let the engine idle and let it warm-up for 2-3 mins before shifting gears and floor the gas pedal. Does this holds true with modern CRDi engines?

usually 30 second warm-up is already enough. then drive slowly (1.5-2k rpm) lang for the the next 2-3km. this is for all engines regardless of year model.

[miked]

Among the API CH-4 rated diesel engine oils, how do you rank Delo Gold, Rimula R3 X and Castrol GTX? and speaking of Castrol, hindi ba talaga magandang brand ito may nababasa kasi akong comment na prone sa sludge formation ito.

hindi ko na isasali ang castrol sa ranking. that's just me no offense meant sa mga castrol users. pero kung nasa bundok at yun lang ang available eh di gamitin pa rin. pero kung anjan na yung mga mas maganda at marami pa hindi na kasali sa usapan yan. hehe

[miked]

^

thank you sirs.

OT:
For old school diesel engine, I was told before that when starting it cold, we must let the engine idle and let it warm-up for 2-3 mins before shifting gears and floor the gas pedal. Does this holds true with modern CRDi engines?

diesel or gas, ugali ko pa rin yun konting idle time to let all the engine bearings receive enough oil before running the vehicle. observe ko muna kung may unusual sound, idiot lights turning on, etc.

eto ginagawa ko eh esp on long trips:
1. open hood and check all fluids
2. start if ok then listen for abnormal engine sounds, visual check on front rotating parts.
3. walk around vehicle to check brake system for leaks
4. go if ok.

so far wala pa naman akong ginawang beside-the-road repairs dahil dito sa routine ko sa vehicle.
mukhang magiging thread eto for the "idling myth" ah. hehe

[Retz]

hindi ko na isasali ang castrol sa ranking. that's just me no offense meant sa mga castrol users. pero kung nasa bundok at yun lang ang available eh di gamitin pa rin. pero kung anjan na yung mga mas maganda at marami pa hindi na kasali sa usapan yan. hehe

Thank you sir. Mukhang tama nga ang mga negative commetns about Castrol oil.

[Retz]

diesel or gas, ugali ko pa rin yun konting idle time to let all the engine bearings receive enough oil before running the vehicle. observe ko muna kung may unusual sound, idiot lights turning on, etc.

eto ginagawa ko eh esp on long trips:
1. open hood and check all fluids
2. start if ok then listen for abnormal engine sounds, visual check on front rotating parts.
3. walk around vehicle to check brake system for leaks
4. go if ok.

so far wala pa naman akong ginawang beside-the-road repairs dahil dito sa routine ko sa vehicle.
mukhang magiging thread eto for the "idling myth" ah. hehe

ay, hindi naman sir. concentrate tayo about motor oil dito. baka magkaroon ako ng violation nito.

[miked]

hindi naman sa sinisiraan ko castrol. have to admit i'm also a user before (when i don't have yet the auto knowledge). kumbaga low tier oils ang aking classification dito

[Retz]

hindi naman sa sinisiraan ko castrol. have to admit i'm also a user before (when i don't have yet the auto knowledge). kumbaga low tier oils ang aking classification dito

likewise bro. in fact, castrol crb pa rin nakakarga sa mga van namin dito. time to change it in the next OCI.

[numbah5]

Why is it nakalagay sa manual ng Sonata namin, 5W30 ang recommended na viscosity kahit tropical climate? Di ba dapat 5W40?