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  1. Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    231
    #1
    They say, Fully Synthetic is better at heat protection and Extended Drain Intervals ..

    The Heat Protection can benefit any type of driving conditions.
    Extended Drain Intervals can only benefit those who are frequently out of the City or Fleets because they easily achieve the 5000kms/3months interval which is a hassle for some so they chose Fully Synthetic to change it every 10,000kms ...

    But what about the ordinary office guy who can't get 10,000 kms in a year but still wanted to use synthetic for the heat protection reason .. Ofcourse I don't wanna wait 2 years to achieve 10,000 kms before changing oil ...

    So what's the proper drain interval for Semi-Synthetics & Fully-Synthetics using months instead of kilometers ??

    If:

    Mineral Oil = every 3months/5,000kms

    What months should Semi & Fully be drain & change ???

    Semi-Synthetic = ????/7,000kms

    Fully-Synthetic = ????/10,000kms

  2. Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    27,624
    #2
    what do you mean by high heat protection? if your car overheats... something is wrong with your cooling system.

    don't worry about heat too much, I mean, do you drive like you're racing or you're just following slow cars in front of you? you're hardly pushing the engine which doesn't make much heat.

  3. Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    231
    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by StockEngine View Post
    what do you mean by high heat protection? if your car overheats... something is wrong with your cooling system.

    don't worry about heat too much, I mean, do you drive like you're racing or you're just following slow cars in front of you? you're hardly pushing the engine which doesn't make much heat.
    What I meant with heat protection is its better at lubricating engine parts compared to mineral oil ..

    As far as I know, engine is cooled in 2 ways .. 1st is the engine oil absorbs the heat while lubricating the engine .. 2nd is the coolant absorbs the heat of the engine and the oil ..

    That's why the engine will still overheat if the oil has not been change for a long time even if the coolant and cooling system of the car is in good condition ...

  4. Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    27,624
    #4
    so you experienced this overheating because of bad engine oil?

    got proof?

    engine book reference?
    Last edited by StockEngine; January 24th, 2018 at 01:08 AM.

  5. Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    231
    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by StockEngine View Post
    so you experienced this overheating because of bad engine oil?

    got proof?

    engine book reference?
    Nope ..

    But everytime I've read about Synthetic Oils in the internet, they're always associated with the term "better heat resistance" ..

    I just use my common sense that better heat resistance leads to better engine protection .. (oil will not easily break down, no sludge formation, healthy engine, will not be prone to overheat) ..

  6. Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    54,619
    #6
    in my experience, a poorly lubricated engine does not necessarily overheat.
    it may show flickering oil warning light, or it simply stops running. "frozen engine".

  7. Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    27,624
    #7
    4AF engine? 5000km or 3 months whichever comes first..

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tsikot Forums mobile app

  8. Join Date
    Apr 2014
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    231
    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by StockEngine View Post
    4AF engine? 5000km or 3 months whichever comes first..

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tsikot Forums mobile app
    4afe sir .. 4af is the carburetor version and 4afe is EFI ..

    Kahit ba Fully Synthetic gamit na oil sir, 5000kms or 3 months pa rin ??

  9. Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    27,624
    #9
    3L capacity? change oil every 6mo with semi synthetic...

  10. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    93
    #10
    I have a 2002 Honda city clocking 110K kilometers in the ODO. Regular office guy who only consume 3k a year of distance. I use semi-synthetic that is suppose to be regularly replace every 6 months or 5k kms. but I religiously did for the past years yearly replacement and seems the engine is not complaining and still performing better.



    Quote Originally Posted by Dezaremos View Post
    They say, Fully Synthetic is better at heat protection and Extended Drain Intervals ..

    The Heat Protection can benefit any type of driving conditions.
    Extended Drain Intervals can only benefit those who are frequently out of the City or Fleets because they easily achieve the 5000kms/3months interval which is a hassle for some so they chose Fully Synthetic to change it every 10,000kms ...

    But what about the ordinary office guy who can't get 10,000 kms in a year but still wanted to use synthetic for the heat protection reason .. Ofcourse I don't wanna wait 2 years to achieve 10,000 kms before changing oil ...

    So what's the proper drain interval for Semi-Synthetics & Fully-Synthetics using months instead of kilometers ??

    If:

    Mineral Oil = every 3months/5,000kms

    What months should Semi & Fully be drain & change ???

    Semi-Synthetic = ????/7,000kms

    Fully-Synthetic = ????/10,000kms

  11. Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    148
    #11
    Mineral, SS, FS. It's all so confusing.

    Went and spoke with actual oil guys and they dropped some knowledge on me. Long story short story (kasi beer daw bayad ko para sa lessons) the term FS as we know if is basically just marketing. What counts as "synthetics" really? Different guys have differential opinions. Best gauge so far is base oil classification (group 1,2,3,4 or 5).

    There's tons if info out there. There's even that case where Mobil sued Castrol because of all this - should crude oil, when processed enough, be counted as "synthetic oil"?

    Gulo. So after multiple rounds of beer, my standard for me is that, for me to accept something as FS, it has to be a group 4 or 5 base (PAO, esters, etc). Please don't sell me something that's called FS that uses group 3.

    The whole conversation about SS can be summed up in a statement that stuck with me - "cguro naman lahat nang pinoy may dugong kastila - e di lahat tayo pwede nang tawagin na "semi-spanish" 😂

    ------------------------------------------
    Stay hungry. Stay humble.

  12. Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    27,624
    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by stayhungry View Post
    Mineral, SS, FS. It's all so confusing.

    Went and spoke with actual oil guys and they dropped some knowledge on me. Long story short story (kasi beer daw bayad ko para sa lessons) the term FS as we know if is basically just marketing. What counts as "synthetics" really? Different guys have differential opinions. Best gauge so far is base oil classification (group 1,2,3,4 or 5).

    There's tons if info out there. There's even that case where Mobil sued Castrol because of all this - should crude oil, when processed enough, be counted as "synthetic oil"?

    Gulo. So after multiple rounds of beer, my standard for me is that, for me to accept something as FS, it has to be a group 4 or 5 base (PAO, esters, etc). Please don't sell me something that's called FS that uses group 3.

    The whole conversation about SS can be summed up in a statement that stuck with me - "cguro naman lahat nang pinoy may dugong kastila - e di lahat tayo pwede nang tawagin na "semi-spanish" 😂

    ------------------------------------------
    Stay hungry. Stay humble.
    guess which oils(and base oils) are approved by ferrari for their road cars (non track)

    by the way its not about base oils. if you buy oil look at the labels and your owner manuals.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tsikot Forums mobile app

  13. Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    148
    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by StockEngine View Post
    guess which oils(and base oils) are approved by ferrari for their road cars (non track)

    by the way its not about base oils. if you buy oil look at the labels and your owner manuals.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tsikot Forums mobile app
    Agreed. Check you manual then check the label on a reputable brand and you should be golden.

    ------------------------------------------
    Stay hungry. Stay humble.

  14. Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    6,107
    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by stayhungry View Post
    Mineral, SS, FS. It's all so confusing.

    Went and spoke with actual oil guys and they dropped some knowledge on me. Long story short story (kasi beer daw bayad ko para sa lessons) the term FS as we know if is basically just marketing. What counts as "synthetics" really? Different guys have differential opinions. Best gauge so far is base oil classification (group 1,2,3,4 or 5).

    There's tons if info out there. There's even that case where Mobil sued Castrol because of all this - should crude oil, when processed enough, be counted as "synthetic oil"?

    Gulo. So after multiple rounds of beer, my standard for me is that, for me to accept something as FS, it has to be a group 4 or 5 base (PAO, esters, etc). Please don't sell me something that's called FS that uses group 3.

    The whole conversation about SS can be summed up in a statement that stuck with me - "cguro naman lahat nang pinoy may dugong kastila - e di lahat tayo pwede nang tawagin na "semi-spanish" 😂

    ------------------------------------------
    Stay hungry. Stay humble.
    Mobil 1 except for the extended performance belongs to Group 3. Afaik, Redline, Royal Purple and Motul 300v are group 4.

    Sent from my SM-T705 using Tsikot Forums mobile app

  15. Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    148
    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by falken View Post
    Mobil 1 except for the extended performance belongs to Group 3. Afaik, Redline, Royal Purple and Motul 300v are group 4.

    Sent from my SM-T705 using Tsikot Forums mobile app
    Sounds about right. I think most of the stuff from Caltex and petron aren't group 4 not sure about shell.

    ------------------------------------------
    Stay hungry. Stay humble.

  16. Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    688
    #16
    Malalaman ba natin kung anong group ng base oil ang ginamit base sa packaging lang?

  17. Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    148
    #17
    Sir Andrew from what I know, pag sinabi sa pack "PAO base oil" should be group 4 yun - unless wrong info nilagay nila sa pack

    Edit: pag may nakalagay naman na "hydrocrack" or "gtl" I think group 3 na



    Edit2: "Synthetics is really more of a marketing term than anything that conforms to
    a scientific definition,” says Rosenbaum. “The only place where a synthetic lubricant is really defined as a PAO is Germany." - taken from an article from the Society of Tribology and Lubrication Engineers




    ------------------------------------------
    Stay hungry. Stay humble.

  18. Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    6,450
    #18
    Simply put, Group IV (PAO) base oils are overrated.

    Allow me to cross-post a reply I made on the other, very similar thread as I think it's very relevant to this thread as well.

    Group III vs Group IV (PAO). Does it still matter?

    Talking only about fully-synthetic oil, there was probably a point in time when PAO base oils were considered the holy grail of lubricants and were actually superior, in a very big way, to Group III and lower base stocks. But is this still the case today? It appears now that the performance gap between Group III and IV base stocks have become so close that the jump in cost choosing PAO makes it no longer cost-effective.

    As cost is a major concern for most people, are the seemingly marginal benefits of PAO enough justification to throw your money to it?

    Below is an article I read challenging this conventional thinking. I have provided excerpts if you do not wish to read the whole article.

    A similar trend is emerging with Group III base oils, especially those made using modern hydroisomerization. These oils provide equivalent performance to traditional PAO-based synthetic oils for most products and can be manufactured in volumes and at price points unachievable by PAO.
    A modern Group III oil can actually outperform a PAO in several areas important to lubricants, such as additive solubility, lubricity and antiwear performance. Group III base oils can now rival PAO stocks in pour point, viscosity index and oxidation stability performance.
    This equivalent performance was validated by the 1999 ruling of the National Advertising Division of the Better Business Bureau which allowed lubricants made with Group III oils to be labeled “synthetic.”
    Unfortunately for PAO producers, their feedstock prices will continue to be relatively high, and the authors believe that this will relegate PAO-based lubricants to smaller, specialized markets in the future. Driven by the substantially lower price of Group III oils, the synthetic automotive lubricant market in North America is rapidly converting most of its volumes to Group III base stocks.
    Source: Performance of Base Oils and Future Trends - The Evolution of Base Oil Technology - Part 3

    To add, from here:

    Group III oils are sometimes advertised as synthetics. There is an understanding that the refining process has severely modified the original hydrocarbon, thus synthesizing the more highly pure product.

  19. Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    27,624
    #19
    yeah some guys are still stuck on these base oil discussions. bitog forums have moved past these old discussions.




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  20. Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    3,328
    #20
    Admins, kindly archive this thread na. hehe kidding.

    Dami kasing na didiscover mga new car owners kaya siguro hanggang ngayon, hot topic pa rin and oil types.

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Mineral, Semi-Synth & Fully Synth (Low Mileage Drain Intervals) ...