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  1. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #1
    This write-up is for informational purposes only....

    First is to remove the radiator (& hoses) to give you enough space. Disconnect also the lines connecting the transmission cooler (for automatics). Remove all V-belts (A/C, PS, Alt), A/C tensioner.


    Remove the Crankshaft pulley damper using 2 techniques. If you are man enough (not like me), do this one:
    wrap a chain wrench on the pulley then use a breaker handle with socket (19mm on these engines). you may need an assistant for this to hold the one wrench


    or if you are alone, do this trick: ground the breaker handle to the vehicle frame then one very short burst of the starting motor. voila! crankshaft bolt loosened!:


    Remove the crank bolt and the damper pulley. aside from giving power to engine auxiliary systems (A/C, ALT, PS), the crank pulley also serve as a vibration damper. it absorbs and smoothens the power pulses from the engine. Replacement crank pulleys usually costs about P3k (with the key)
    rear view of crank pulley

    front view of crank pulley

  2. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #2
    Here is the crank bolt which is a high tensile bolt (grade 10 and some are grade 7 marks on the head). bolt is M14 x 1.5 iirc.


    Upon removal of the bolt, pulley and lower timing cover, thread back the crank bolt...


    and align the timing marks on the camshaft


    fuel injection pum


    crankshaft and lower (right) balancer


    and upper (left) balancer shafts

  3. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #3
    Word of Caution: Always rotate the timing assembly via the power source which is the crankshaft bolt (not on the injection pump or camshaft) or else you'll screw up the timing....some engines also rotate counterclockwise but for this application it rotates clockwise facing the engine.

    before removing the cam belt, take the bolt out. the timing may move back so hold it via the fuel injection pump.


    To remove the cam belt, remove it following the instructions from the manual sourced from the internet:
    that is, loosen the NUT first on the upper tensioner bearing then the bolt on the slot side. Then pry the tensioner using a screwdriver towards the water pump and hold it there by tightening the slot side bolt then nut



    Upon removal of the cam belt, follow again the manual by loosening first the lower tensioner bearing's nut and bolt.


    Upon removal of the belts, remove the 2 crankshaft sprockets (1 for the cam, 1 for the balancer). the key will also come off. don't forget the key. take note also the direction of installation of the flange. failure to install the flange correctly will snap the belt.

  4. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #4
    You may have noticed, the timing assembly was bathing in oil. the problem was a front crank oil seal ready to jump out of its seat. once the belts are soaked in oil, replace them asap.


    the outer diameter of the crankshaft is about 43.95mm...that would be the internal diameter of the oil seal. hope the oil seal will take care of the 0.05 difference. btw, the oil seal size for this one is 44 x 60 x 7 mm.



    To remove the seal, pry it out with a screwdriver (with a cloth to prevent marring the shaft or the housing).


    Clean first the front assembly

  5. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #5
    I cut and used a spent refrigerant drier filter to push the new oil seal in the housing.


    For the reassembly, i have to be cruel. Reassembly is the reverse of diassembly.

    Just don't forget to torque every bolt to specs especially the crank bolt (130 ftlbs).

    Check the timing by rotating the timing assembly twice or thrice (via the crank bolt) before firing up the engine.

    Hope this helps especially to the newbie on this type of DIY.

  6. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    22,658
    #6
    Sticky! For Reference Purposes

    http://docotep.multiply.com/
    Need an Ambulance? We sell Zic Brand Oils and Lubricants. Please PM me.

  7. #7
    add ko lang-- turo sa akin ng mekaniko ko while we chage the t.belt of my former delica:

    set mo muna ang timing to 1 (may markers yun) bago alisin ang belt.

  8. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by alwayz_yummy View Post
    add ko lang-- turo sa akin ng mekaniko ko while we chage the t.belt of my former delica:

    set mo muna ang timing to 1 (may markers yun) bago alisin ang belt.
    yap. applies to any engine. be it gear, chain or belt driven. timing marks will tell you the TDC position of piston #1. refer to reply#2 above.

  9. Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    304
    #9
    Sir Miked, timimg belt ba or timing chain nakakabit sa 4M40 na engine? Thanks

  10. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by marz View Post
    Sir Miked, timimg belt ba or timing chain nakakabit sa 4M40 na engine? Thanks
    Gears and a chain as per the manual from the net.....http://www.mitsubishi-motors.kiev.ua...ee9409/11A.pdf

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Crash Course on 4D56 Timing Belt  Replacement (with Pics)