Bubbles in radiator even after top overhaul..gurus help!

[mikoyreales]

mga sir, normal ba na matigas at mainit ung upper hose ng rad?

[jvnj]

Sir Mikoyreales,

Can you give inputs on what parameters indicates in your temp gauge? Hindi ho ba sya mataas? Hindi ho ba nagbabawas ng tubig sa radiator?

Most likely, my guess are as follows:

1. Defective/damage CH gasket (probable illustrations by Sir mazingerZ)
2. Clogged radiator
3. Defective Thermostat (dont know the exact name, but its a mechanical device/part that controls the flow of radiator liquid)

Presence of bubbles in a cooling system is not normal. Also, kung di naman luma yung hoses nyo, di dapat sya tumitigas pag umaandar (as illustrated na parang sasabog), it indicates a high pressure system (might be abnormally high) which is a sign of restriction or abnormally high temp, dapat normal lang ang tigas. Better have it checked with a competent technician.

Thanks

[ARB]

does the water jump out of the radiator opening when the engine is on? try mo pa re torque ang cylinder head.

[miked]

does the water jump out of the radiator opening when the engine is on? try mo pa re torque ang cylinder head.

try "burping" your cooling system several times. open rad cap and let engine run with vehicle on an incline. front higher than the rear.

mine have continuous stream of bubbles...sometimes frothing.

right after starting, there is a considerable pressure buildup with the water still cold

sa mga hoses, better buy the OEM as well as clamps OEM din. upper hose is at a higher pressure (because of the action of the pump as well as water expands when heated) than the lower hose (sometimes vacuum occurs in the lower hose due to very high speed of the water pump = hose collapsing = overheating at highway speeds)

try retorquing your head bolts (when cold if aluminum head, while still hot if cast iron head) to specs if they are the reusable ones. do not retorque if they are the torque-to-yield bolts. head bolts torque usually in the 110-125 Nm range (about 80% of their shearing strengths)

just my info on this.

another DIY for me this weekend. the head gasket.

[mikoyreales]

tnx miked for that reply..cguro itry ko na lang iparetorque ung cyl head bolts.

i'll update you guys na lang next time. salamat sa mga inputs!

[mikoyreales]

dapat ba talaga lagyan ng shellac yung steel CH gasket? newly resurfaced kasi yung CH ko pero yun daw ang ginawa ng mech. sa pagbrowse ko kasi dito sa tsikot, nkita ko na dapat walang RTV kasi yun ang nagiging cause ng overheat kapag lumutong.

kindly enlighten me about this. maraming salamat

[bambino]

kung doubtful ka sa quality ng trabaho pwede ipa computerized cooling systems analysis ang oto mo . no guessing ang procedure na eto ,very accurate .

the question is meron kaya knowledgeable na shop dyan na pwede magperform ng ganitong diagnosis

[miked]

as per my experience and as per my own knowledge,

for a bimetal engine (cast iron block + aluminum cyl head), the alum cyl head expands and contracts more than the cast iron block.

since yun nga, expand and contract and so on naapektuhan ang clamping force ng bolt (lalo na kung yung reusable bolts i.e. hex bolts).

the torque-to-yield (i.e. 12-point bolts) bolts do not require retightening because they have the same clamping force at all temperatures therefore mas reliable.

RTV is not recommended for head gaskets. masyado malambot ito. it is usually used to absorb and contain oil-based fluids. not for compression purposes.

tingin ko sa shellac hindi sumasabay sa thermal cycling ng aluminum cyl head yung HG na may shellac as compared to a HG w/o shellac kasi napakatigas yung shellac eh. just do a wide reading sa internet, marami ka makukuha.

just my info on this.