Ano pong ok na Engine Oil? Survey na din, ano oil nyo?

**chieffy** · May 21st, 2003 02:28 PM

share ko lang po ito:

LUBRICATING OIL = Base Oil + Additives

Classification of base oils
1. mineral based -complex mix of hydrocarbons
2.synthetic based -"tailor made" into a simple mix of hydrocarbons
-superior volatility, oxidation stability and viscosity index

Base Oil composition:
1. paraffins
a. iso-paraffins -exhibit excellent oxidation stability
b. normal paraffins -exhibit poor low temperature properties
2. napthalenes
3. aromatics

Types of Additives:

which extend lubricant life:
1. viscosity index (VI) improvers -reduce the rate of viscosity change with temp; oil does not thin down excessively
2. pour point depressants -reduce lubricant's pour point to less that -30 degrees Celsius
3. anti-foamants -break up the air bubbles caused by constant movements
4. oxidation inhibitors(anti-oxidant) -slow down the rate of oxidation(the process of oil thickening through the natural reaction of oil with oxygen in the air)

which protect metal surfaces:
5. rust and corrosion inhibitors -neutralize acids and seal surfaces against water
6. anti wear agents -form a protective oil film over moving engine parts to reduce friction and wear
7. extreme pressure (EP) additives -form an actual chemical bond to the metal surface at high temperatures;for severe loading and sliding conditions
other use of EP additives
8. detergents -keep the engine free of sludge deposits and prevent carbon build-up
9. dispersants -keep insoluble contaminants scattered
pics of detergent and dispersant action
10.demulsifiers -prevent formation of emulsions which are suspensions of oil in water
11. emulsifiers -aid in the suspension of oil in water

REASONS FOR OIL CHANGES
-contamination
-additive depletion

**RS Sprint** · May 21st, 2003 08:15 PM

Remember also that just because the oil "looks" okay after an oil change (color still looks okay, goldish) doesn't mean that the oil is in fact still acceptable for use in your engine. Pwede siya mag viscosity breakdown over long periods of time.

Likewise with oil that is readity black; it doesn't mean that it is time to throw it away. Some oils turn black immediately because of its detergent additives cleanig up the engine.

A chemical engineer from Shell told me this since I asked him before.

Thanks for the post sir chieffy, very helpful.

**vinj** · May 22nd, 2003 02:30 AM

... If you change oil and it's still clean, you would also wonder on "Where did the dirt go"? This is why i'd prefer oils that turn black after some time.

**jaspi11** · May 22nd, 2003 04:13 AM

ako penzoil.

**ondoy** · May 25th, 2003 09:07 AM

IMO the first and foremost thing to do is to consult the user manual of your car for the recommended SAE viscosity grade(s) and API service category. As a rule, user manuals specifically recommend the minimum API service category of the engine oil, but specifies a selection of SAE viscosity grades depending on the expected ambient temperature range encountered until the next oil change.

For example, the Mazda 323 Familia requires API SD, SF, or SG oils with viscosities of 10W-30 or 10W-50, or 20W-50; the Corolla 4A-FE engine specifies an API SG or better, and a choice of viscosities of 10W-30, or 15W-40, or 20W-50; the Adventure 2.0G specifies API SG or higher and viscosity grades of 10W-30 or 20W-40; and the Trooper 4JX1 requires an API CD service category with viscosity grades of 5W-30 or 10W-30.

From the foregoing examples, it may be noted that the highest API category recommended is only SG for the gas engine, and CD for the diesel engine. Oils with these API ratings are no longer found in the market, and considering that for gas engines, the only API rating currently applicable are SJ and SL, then you have to use oils with these API ratings. For diesel engines, current applicable API ratings are CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, and CF, so it is most logical to look for the oil with the highest API rating, in this case, CI-4. For new cars, it is most logical to select the lowest recommended viscosity range, e.g., 5W-30 or 10W-30 as this will promote the best fuel economy and clearances are still pretty tight; however, as the car becomes older and clearances larger and is now considered a "high-mileage" vehicle, the heavier viscosity range should be chosen, e.g., 10W-40, or 15W-40, or 5W-50, or 20W-50, in order to prevent oil leakage through the seals.

Once you have established the required API service category and SAE viscosity grade of the oil needed by your car, then you go now to the selection based on whether your car has a turbo or not. For cars with turbochargers, the wisest choice for the engine oil is the synthetic oils, especially if the car is not fitted with turbo-timer. As regards the brand.......Mobil? Castrol? Shell? Caltex? Petron? Etc.? The choice is yours...

**buknoy2002** · May 25th, 2003 10:14 PM

Originally Posted by chieffy

share ko lang po ito:

LUBRICATING OIL = Base Oil + Additives

Classification of base oils
1. mineral based -complex mix of hydrocarbons
2.synthetic based -"tailor made" into a simple mix of hydrocarbons
-superior volatility, oxidation stability and viscosity index

Base Oil composition:
1. paraffins
a. iso-paraffins -exhibit excellent oxidation stability
b. normal paraffins -exhibit poor low temperature properties
2. napthalenes
3. aromatics

Types of Additives:

which extend lubricant life:
1. viscosity index (VI) improvers -reduce the rate of viscosity change with temp; oil does not thin down excessively
2. pour point depressants -reduce lubricant's pour point to less that -30 degrees Celsius
3. anti-foamants -break up the air bubbles caused by constant movements
4. oxidation inhibitors(anti-oxidant) -slow down the rate of oxidation(the process of oil thickening through the natural reaction of oil with oxygen in the air)

which protect metal surfaces:
5. rust and corrosion inhibitors -neutralize acids and seal surfaces against water
6. anti wear agents -form a protective oil film over moving engine parts to reduce friction and wear
7. extreme pressure (EP) additives -form an actual chemical bond to the metal surface at high temperatures;for severe loading and sliding conditions
other use of EP additives
8. detergents -keep the engine free of sludge deposits and prevent carbon build-up
9. dispersants -keep insoluble contaminants scattered
pics of detergent and dispersant action
10.demulsifiers -prevent formation of emulsions which are suspensions of oil in water
11. emulsifiers -aid in the suspension of oil in water

REASONS FOR OIL CHANGES
-contamination
-additive depletion

question po. do u recommend every 5k e mag caltex power flush ? i use hav energy for my car.

thnx

**chieffy** · May 26th, 2003 10:35 AM

Originally Posted by buknoy2002

question po. do u recommend every 5k e mag caltex power flush ? i use hav energy for my car.thnx

alaga naman kotse natin....kahit once a year lang or when shifting from mineral to semi-synthetic/fully synthetic engine oil (para sa gasoline engines)...mas madalas para sa diesel engines....twice a year....

**RS Sprint** · May 26th, 2003 11:03 AM

boss chieffy,

Ano recommended niyo na fully synthetic diesel engine oil?

**chieffy** · May 26th, 2003 11:15 AM

walang akong mai-recommend na synthetic diesel engine oil sir RS Sprint since wala pa akong diesel na sasakyan at AFAIK wala rin pong synthetic diesel engine oil ang CPInc....marami sa posters dito lalo na ang mga diesel peeps natin ang gumagamit ng Mobil1 para sa kanilang diesel rides....