4d56 overheating w/ A/C on on traffic

**phezthie** · May 3rd, 2011 10:10 AM

hey bro, yung a/c ba na check mo na kung hindi nag hi-high pressure?... pwede din kasi iyon ang cause...pag high pressure, mas mahirapan fan mo palamigin yung rad and condenser..

**Ry_Tower** · May 3rd, 2011 10:13 AM

Usually sa ganyan mahina na yung rad fan or yun nga ^ high-pressure yung a/c mo!

**miked** · May 3rd, 2011 10:18 AM

plus another culprit is the A/T could be overheating also contributing to the cyclic reading on the gage. my plan is to put an external cooler and bypass the internal cooler...hirap nga lang maghanap lalu na andito nako province for a vacation.

**dvldoc** · May 3rd, 2011 07:51 PM

Originally Posted by miked

i refilled it about 6 months ago i think. doesn't free wheel when engine stopped....if ever the silicon content is good. i'm thinking na yung bimetallic strip ang may defect.

as per inspection las head gasket change, the head is still good.

82C as indicated on my first post.

been thinking this one. read it from a motor mag but what part of the tstat should be drilled with respect to the bridge?....

road trip kami kahapon here sa province. from 1130-230, even on highway with the A/C on, the temp climbs to 212 and higher. pero when i put off the A/C, bumababa na.

then 3pm onwards stayed at 200F and sometimes lower with A/C on pa rin.

yun nga lang pagdating sa bahay, iniwan ko na naka on ang A/C while letting the engine cool off with the hood closed- ayun umakyat uli sa 212F. i switched off A/C and opened hood and some high rpm ayun bumaba naman...something like a cyclic overheating is happening and i don't know why..take note halos high revs ang ginawa ko just to test my hypothesis......

can't afford to sacrifice the comfort of having an A/C esp summer with my kid on the road.

i'll tinker with it this weekend. buti na lang dinala ko tool set ko.

You would drill opposite the bridge on the T-stat.

**tip_tipid** · May 3rd, 2011 08:24 PM

you've got a coolant flow problem. ewither the thermostat does not open wide, or the waterpump fins have corroded.

**niwde11** · May 3rd, 2011 08:56 PM

kung pag aC at traffic lang de AC nga me problema. usual is high pressure or lack or ram air(mahina yung aux fan ng condeser)

**miked** · May 4th, 2011 12:50 PM

Originally Posted by phezthie

hey bro, yung a/c ba na check mo na kung hindi nag hi-high pressure?... pwede din kasi iyon ang cause...pag high pressure, mas mahirapan fan mo palamigin yung rad and condenser..

actually, electric fan equipped din pipip ko. wired with the A/C circuit.....i'll have it checked then after i check the fan clutch.....

quick question: should the fan clutch turn lighter when turned by hand when hot than when cold? this is the situation right now.

and the temperature readings are based on a mechanical gage. actually i also have the electric stock gage working but the mechanical is more sensitive to changes....nasa 140F na yung mechanical, yung electric gage nasa Cold line pa lang. saka lang pupunta sa gitna ng 1st and 2nd line after say 15 minutes that is at 180F. but at times, the stock electric is about in excess of a hairline above the 2nd line when the mechanical gage reads >212F.

**miked** · May 4th, 2011 12:54 PM

Originally Posted by niwde11

kung pag aC at traffic lang de AC nga me problema. usual is high pressure or lack or ram air(mahina yung aux fan ng condeser)

sir
as i've said in my previous post, it also occurred at high speed driving (w/ A/C on) especially on the hottest time (11AM-2PM)........

**phezthie** · May 4th, 2011 01:48 PM

Originally Posted by miked

actually, electric fan equipped din pipip ko. wired with the A/C circuit.....i'll have it checked then after i check the fan clutch.....

quick question: should the fan clutch turn lighter when turned by hand when hot than when cold? this is the situation right now.

and the temperature readings are based on a mechanical gage. actually i also have the electric stock gage working but the mechanical is more sensitive to changes....nasa 140F na yung mechanical, yung electric gage nasa Cold line pa lang. saka lang pupunta sa gitna ng 1st and 2nd line after say 15 minutes that is at 180F. but at times, the stock electric is about in excess of a hairline above the 2nd line when the mechanical gage reads >212F.

mate, ano klase ba yung fan mo, bi-metallic strip and control piston or yung bi-metal spring connected to an opening plate? meron din Flex-Fan..

if your condenser fan is in good working condition i would suggest to check your rad fan for possible trouble...

run the engine at a fast idle speed until normal operating temperature is reached. stop the engine and immediately check the effort required to turn the fan (take due care, use gloves). if considerable effort is required, it can be assumed that the coupling is operating satisfactorily but if very little effort is required to turn the fan, it is an indication that the coupling is not operating properly and should be replaced.

if the clutch fan is the coiled bi-metal spring type, it may be tested while the vehicle is being driven by disconnecting the bi-metal spring, and rotate it 90 degrees counterclockwise to disable the temperature-controlled free-wheeling feature and the clutch performs like a conventional fan. if this cures the overheating condition, replace the clutch fan.

here's the link on how to recondition the clutch fan http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/FanClutch/FanClutch.htm

**phezthie** · May 4th, 2011 02:03 PM

BTW there are some techs who do not recommend reconditioning... they prefer and recommend replacement...FYI...

hope you solve your car's problem soon, regards..