Overcurrent but Correct Voltage

[miked]

GOod day tsikot!

Vehicle Info before we proceed:
Mitsubishi L300 van (90s year model)...hindi ko makita yung dataplate eh.
with a -60/+60 Ampere range current gauge.
No extra bling-blings like fog lamps, high powered amplifiers etc....
fitted with a 110 ampere alternator (brand new). hindi ko rin makita brand name. sorry

Situation Report:
1. Right after starting, ampere gage shoots over +60 A then trickle down to less than 30 A.
2. With the A/C on (front and/or rear), ampere gage registers beyond 30 A (approx. 40A). with intermittent noise on rear A/C blower (bearing maybe)
3. Headlights on (A/C off) a little less than 30 A.
3. Voltage readings are ok (lower than 14.4V) according to my digital tester.

Is this normal or not? ganito ba talaga ugali ng mga brand new non-OEM alternators?
kasi hindi ganito yung sarili kong sasakyan.

thanks

[miked]

wala pang 2 years yung battery...

bale sa pinsan ko ito. maalala ko pala. kinargahan ko last time ng eletrolyte yung battery nya dahil below the plates na yung level. i suspected at first an overcharging condition pero yung simple voltage tests ko noon eh hindi naman overcharging. didn't have the chance to inspect it thoroughly also via the ampere gage. ngayon ko lang napansin. fyi

[CVT]

Bro.,- I have not really measured the current drain in our rides (I have no DCA ammeter with that range). I think that gauges are really not that accurate.

However, my thinking is that if the battery's voltage is holding at 13.8V (regular charging),- then you should be okay. The alternator should be real good enough to handle the setup.



21.7K:outcold:

[miked]

wala rin ako brader ng clamp meter. actually naghahanap din ako ng minimum 1000 DC amperes na clamp type kaso mahirap hanapin. usually AC amperes lang.

back to the topic, yung gage na ikinabit dun sa van nya eh yung generic lang (ROX ata).

[xtian119]

Hi Miked,

That ampere gauge in your van is not compatible anymore to your 110 amp alternator. Since it can only read up to 60 amp when you start your engine or rev up with no load it will hit the +60amp reading very easy. Worst case it will burn the ampere gauge because it cannot handle the load. So it would be best if your remove the ampere gauge.

It would be best if you use a voltage meter gauge instead. Yup your voltage reading is on the safe side. Over voltage would be 15 ~ 16 volts

[miked]

Hi Miked,

That ampere gauge in your van is not compatible anymore to your 110 amp alternator. Since it can only read up to 60 amp when you start your engine or rev up with no load it will hit the +60amp reading very easy. Worst case it will burn the ampere gauge because it cannot handle the load. So it would be best if your remove the ampere gauge.

It would be best if you use a voltage meter gauge instead. Yup your voltage reading is on the safe side. Over voltage would be 15 ~ 16 volts

The question would be: why would the alternator give more than 60 amperes when the stock A/C system is on? afaik, the A/C system would require lesser than 20A (if im correct).

kulang pa siguro ako sa informal tests. I'll try swapping a new battery then i'll see.

bale 3 ang nakikita ko sa bolang kristal ko:
1. defective current regulator
2. battery nearing its end
3. a defective component or load (like the A/C). could be partially burnt windings on the blower motor, etc.

[testament11]

Hmmm, much better kung may clamp meter ka with DC functions. If you want one, call 5th Avenue or Avesco and get their Kyoritsu clamp meters. Mahal nga lang ang isa pero compared naman sa Fluke, mas mura nang di hamak pero maganda at quality naman.

Another question pala, yun bang alternator eh IC type o yun kelangan pa ng separate regulator?

At starting kasi, normal yun mag-shoot siya to 60A dahil kelangan niya i-charge ang battery.

Kung suspect mo ang aircon, baka laging naka-on ang compressor at hindi na nag-aautomatic. Maybe nakasagad ang thermostat settings kaya ganyan. If ok naman ang settings, have it checked na rin.

[miked]

Hmmm, much better kung may clamp meter ka with DC functions. If you want one, call 5th Avenue or Avesco and get their Kyoritsu clamp meters. Mahal nga lang ang isa pero compared naman sa Fluke, mas mura nang di hamak pero maganda at quality naman.

Another question pala, yun bang alternator eh IC type o yun kelangan pa ng separate regulator?

At starting kasi, normal yun mag-shoot siya to 60A dahil kelangan niya i-charge ang battery.

Kung suspect mo ang aircon, baka laging naka-on ang compressor at hindi na nag-aautomatic. Maybe nakasagad ang thermostat settings kaya ganyan. If ok naman ang settings, have it checked na rin.

Hindi kaya ng powers ko yung kyoritsu. nakita ko na typical prices nun. kaya yung fluke at klein di na ako nagbother na alamin pa. hehe...pero sigurado ako meron maganda sa may binondo area. hanapin lang ng maige.

back to the topic:

integral IC type yung alternator

nagcycle on and off naman yung compressor. minimum settings na rin yung thermostat. pero still have to check that blower bushing or bearing. baka dinadrag yung ikot ng blower motor.

[kinyo]

why would the alternator give more than 60 amperes when the stock A/C system is on?

that's not what it says on your 1st post

With the A/C on (front and/or rear), ampere gage registers beyond 30 A (approx. 40A)

[miked]

that's not what it says on your 1st post

sorry kinulang pa pala sa kuwento...same attitude din kapag i-turn on ang A/C. magshshoot beyond 60 A then go down littlle by little to approx 40 A.

[Chinoi]

Normal lang iyon high current na iyon.

Actually , aircon compressor have no electrical connection. Pulley driven ito. Ang nakikita ko lang pwede mag create ng high surge current ay mga dc motor. Gaya ng Condenser Fan and Blower Fan and which will turn on if aircon was activated . DC motors tends to draw high current due to its inductance and commutator inertia. But once the commutator have already gain its speed. The high current will drop to its normal dc motor drawn current. Sometimes we call it startup current.

[xtian119]

The question would be: why would the alternator give more than 60 amperes when the stock A/C system is on? afaik, the A/C system would require lesser than 20A (if im correct).

kulang pa siguro ako sa informal tests. I'll try swapping a new battery then i'll see.

bale 3 ang nakikita ko sa bolang kristal ko:
1. defective current regulator
2. battery nearing its end
3. a defective component or load (like the A/C). could be partially burnt windings on the blower motor, etc.

Hi Miked,

When the A/C system is on, the idle up actuator activates to compensate for the additional load in the engine, increasing the engine's rpm.
Can you also confirm that when you press the gas pedal the ampere gauge reads 60+ amperes?

[miked]

Normal lang iyon high current na iyon.

Actually , aircon compressor have no electrical connection. Pulley driven ito. Ang nakikita ko lang pwede mag create ng high surge current ay mga dc motor. Gaya ng Condenser Fan and Blower Fan and which will turn on if aircon was activated . DC motors tends to draw high current due to its inductance and commutator inertia. But once the commutator have already gain its speed. The high current will drop to its normal dc motor drawn current. Sometimes we call it startup current.

brader, the magnetic clutch requires current to engage the compressor. AC motors also behave similarly with respect to starting current. cheers!

[miked]

Can you also confirm that when you press the gas pedal the ampere gauge reads 60+ amperes?

hindi naman lampas 60 amperes...between 10-30 amperes (all loads are off). saka lang nagoovershoot kapag after starting, A/C on and even headlights on. then go down to about 40 Amps.

check ko uli kapag ibalik na nya sasakyan nya. yun ay kung babalik sya agad. eh hinete pinsan ko e. saka lang may ipapatingin kung talagang sira na. hehe

[atmarcella]

i went to my electrician with an ampere guage, he said that is not compatible with your car, that is only up to 60..... you need something up to 90.

if found out that amp guages up to 60 are for cars with voltage regulators...... mine daw is IC type.....whatever that means......i googled it and there really are amp guages even up to 150.

[dr. d]

i went to my electrician with an ampere guage, he said that is not compatible with your car, that is only up to 60..... you need something up to 90.

if found out that amp guages up to 60 are for cars with voltage regulators...... mine daw is IC type.....whatever that means......i googled it and there really are amp guages even up to 150.

so, get that amp gauge with "higher rating".

[jick.cejoco]

Don't forget the possibility the ammeter was connected wrong or was Installed near a strong magnet

[dr. d]

in the 60s, most jeeps were fitted with ROX ammeters. up to +/- 50 or 60 amps lang sila. and every driver would look at it upon starting, to see if the generator (not alternator) were charging.

la lang.. surfing.

[12vdc]

Analog Ammeters are not recommended if not properly wired.

Check the main fuse of your battery then you will have rough estimate of what amperage to use.

It should be more than the main fuse if you will wire it directly from alternator to battery, else the gauge will go first before the fuse which could start a fire. A burnt wire insulation is a trigger to a fire because anything burnt is carbon which conducts electricity.

To answer the TS, there is no such as giving overcurrent, maybe over current draw. The clutch of AC is a huge electromagnet like a motor that draws huge amnt of current when engaged.