Maayos ba to pag nagpalit ng alternator?

[haxso]

Patulong naman po, newbie po.
Bali may kakakabit lang po kasi ng pangalawang amplifier ko para sa sub, dati kasi isang amplifier gamit ko para sa lahat ng speakers at sub, ihiniwalay ko na yung sub ng amp, kaso parang humina yung hatak ng sasakyan ko, lalo na pag nagaircon pa ko.
Ang tanong ko lang po, lalakas ba ulit hatak ng nito pag nagpalit ako ng alternator?

[jick.cejoco]

Patulong naman po, newbie po.
Bali may kakakabit lang po kasi ng pangalawang amplifier ko para sa sub, dati kasi isang amplifier gamit ko para sa lahat ng speakers at sub, ihiniwalay ko na yung sub ng amp, kaso parang humina yung hatak ng sasakyan ko, lalo na pag nagaircon pa ko.
Ang tanong ko lang po, lalakas ba ulit hatak ng nito pag nagpalit ako ng alternator?

hehehehe sobrang bass at tinutulak ang kotse paatras.
verify your ignition timing with a stroboscopic timing light or verify the ignition timing using a scan tool while the bass kicks on. the knock sensor maybe triggering the ignition timing to retard (simulated detonation)

[jhnkvn]

Depends on car. Got a subcompact? compact? SUV? By saying which car you have, people will have a general idea on what amperage your stock alternator is.

Most Class D amplifiers are highly efficient and even if you're doing bass-beats, should not tax your electrical system as much as you think it does.

Would an ICE system decrease overall vehicle performance? It would technically speaking. Aside from drawing in additional energy, there's weight added too.

Until you actually test the vehicle voltage using a properly calibrated volt meter or a multimeter, you're running in the blind here.

[haxso]

lancer pizza 2001 sir gamit ko, 2nd hand ko siya nabili last march.
sige sir try ko muna test yung voltage. Hanggang gaano ba kababa yung mababa na?

[jhnkvn]

lancer pizza 2001 sir gamit ko, 2nd hand ko siya nabili last march.
sige sir try ko muna test yung voltage. Hanggang gaano ba kababa yung mababa na?

Well, ganito. Alternators are actually pretty durable and since 2001 pa naman yan, I think the alternator's still healthy. It's not like 1990s pa yun kotse mo or something. So you're probably looking at a weak battery.. if not, probably a bad ground if installation isn't proper causing your car to have an inefficient charging system.

What I suggest first is to check your battery. Either have a professional do it.. or you can DIY it if you're mechanically inclined. I do suggest having a professional do it though. Do a load test your battery. To do this, wait until your car hasn't run for a while (ex. matulog ka muna tpos test it the next morning). Then connect your meter to the battery. Note the voltage and it should be at least 12.5V. Next, start your car while looking at the meter. You want to see how much the voltage drops while your car is cranking.. it should stay above 9.6V. If not, your battery's weak and it'll be dying soon.

But assuming a healthy electrical system, just start the car and let it idle for a while (to recharge your battery) then start testing it. This time, you can do everything you want while testing the voltage.

1. Turn on your headlights -> test your voltage
2. Turn on your air-con -> test your voltage
3. Turn everything on including your sounds -> test your voltage

Doing anything above 13V is an indication of a healthy charging system. If you're doing hard bass beats and it's doing 12V, what it means is that the alternator cannot cope up with the ampere demand and it's beginning to draw power from the battery. Is it an indication to worry? Well... depends. Usually I would because every time you tap into the battery and drain it, your battery wears out faster and this is especially the case with your typical lead acid cell batteries such as Motolite.

As for solutions, there are a ton of them. First is to try to do the Big Three. This highly loosens the flow of electricity in the vehicle and I highly recommend doing it if you're doing a car audio setup.

I would stress that if you're going to be using a voltmeter is that it should be properly calibrated. This is why still testing using a volt meter is still a more accurate measurement. I tell you this is because the volt meter in my car is off by -0.4V from my actual reading. So if I'm doing 14.4, nakasulat is 14V lang.

[dr. d]

point to remember...
all that power has to come from somewhere. and that somewhere usually means, the engine.
madali lang naman subukan yan, e. just disconnect the sound system and see if the power comes back. if it does, then you have your answer. and upgrading the alternator probably won't do much because you will still have to get that power from the engine, alternator regardless..

[t2erns]

sa mga ganitong problema ay mas maganda ang malaman mo ang current draw kaysa sa voltage test (potential) use ammeter to check how much is the current draw and compare mo sa rating ng alternator mo baka mas malaki ang draw kaysa sa kayang iproduce ng alternator mo. but remember yung rating ay ideal number lang not the actual so you have to measure the actual too.

[jick.cejoco]

sa mga ganitong problema ay mas maganda ang malaman mo ang current draw kaysa sa voltage test (potential) use ammeter to check how much is the current draw and compare mo sa rating ng alternator mo baka mas malaki ang draw kaysa sa kayang iproduce ng alternator mo. but remember yung rating ay ideal number lang not the actual so you have to measure the actual too.

this is what i use. real time current reading with peak hold

http://www.kleintools.com/sites/klei...?itok=ftd_e2O6

[12vdc]

Just like the jeepneys, they have ammeter in series with the alternator.
negative discharging, zero off or even, positive for charging.

[jaypee10]

ammeter = para malaman mo ung lakas ng battery mo..
volt meter = para malaman mo kung ilan ang voltahe ng baterya mo.

magka iba po yan..pero sa mga noknok pag tester nila at may nasukat na 12v ok pa sa kanila yan...