Alternator Troubleshooting Trick

[joseph20]

Mga experts, totoo po ba yung tricks o troubleshooter technique sa alternator na Once na tinnangal yung negative clamp habang umaandar yung auto and then namatay, my sira o may diperensya yung alternator?? Effective po ba iyon. TnX im aDvance

[yebo]

if you mean removing the negative battery clamp when the engine is running, then the answer is yes. the alternator should be the one providing the electrical power needs of the vehicle when the engine is running and not the battery, so disconnecting the battery with the engine running is a means to test the alternator.

[_Cathy_]

That's a nice trick! I'll try that nga

[joseph20]

Sir, kung both negative and positive tinanggal ko, then hindi naman namatay, meaning ayos pa alternator ko?? Subok na po ba talaga ganitong technique?? pagnamatay makina, sure means nun na may sira alternator ko po?? tama po ba?? TnX sir

[technismo]

sir kahit buong battery p aandar pa din yan.. hehehe may function check yan para malaman kung malakas pa yung alternator mo po... tnx

[Taurus]

I've heard some trick of placing the screw driver's tip at the center of the alternator and if it get magnetized then they say that it is functioning . . . not sure though if that is true but induction might really generate some electromagnet.

[bambino]

pwede lang yan sa old school systems

sa mga modern vehicle systems marami nang modules na pwedeng maapektuhan pag nag spike ang alternator ( maaring masira ang module)


pag diy kailangan nyo volt meter

* idle ( without load)= around 13v- 14.8 v okey yan

full load ( head lights ,A/C defoggers , radio ON ) at least 13v * idle ,ok

[Xt7]

if you mean removing the negative battery clamp when the engine is running, then the answer is yes. the alternator should be the one providing the electrical power needs of the vehicle when the engine is running and not the battery, so disconnecting the battery with the engine running is a means to test the alternator.

kagabi nga pala pagka start ko ng makina (4d56 diesel adventure) may maingay na squeeking sound kapag inaapakan gas pedal(binuksan ko hood at suspect ko galing sa alternator) , kapag inaapakan din gas pedal ay lumalakas ang headlight..
e nabasa ko nga tong trick, ginawa ko kanina umaga, inistart ko engine tapos tinanggal ko negative terminal sa battery, tapos after 30 seconds siguro, AYUN! namatay bigla ang makina.. tapos inistart ko ulit, ayon sa amp meter gauge ko, nakalagay lang sa zero kahit na naka ON ang headlights at radio ko tapos ayon, hindi na nagcha charge ang alternator nasa zero lang..

ano gagawin ko mga sir???? help..

[userfriendly]

kagabi nga pala pagka start ko ng makina (4d56 diesel adventure) may maingay na squeeking sound kapag inaapakan gas pedal(binuksan ko hood at suspect ko galing sa alternator) , kapag inaapakan din gas pedal ay lumalakas ang headlight..
e nabasa ko nga tong trick, ginawa ko kanina umaga, inistart ko engine tapos tinanggal ko negative terminal sa battery, tapos after 30 seconds siguro, AYUN! namatay bigla ang makina.. tapos inistart ko ulit, ayon sa amp meter gauge ko, nakalagay lang sa zero kahit na naka ON ang headlights at radio ko tapos ayon, hindi na nagcha charge ang alternator nasa zero lang..

ano gagawin ko mga sir???? help..

sira alternator mo. Bring your car to a auto electrician.

[jick.cejoco]

Mga experts, totoo po ba yung tricks o troubleshooter technique sa alternator na Once na tinnangal yung negative clamp habang umaandar yung auto and then namatay, my sira o may diperensya yung alternator?? Effective po ba iyon. TnX im aDvance

joseph,
in an effort to educate the blind public about the principles and theory of the automotive charging system, please log on to http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm. these things were not discovered yesterday. guesswork leads to unnecessary and expensive mistakes. use the best tool designed by mankind. this is just the tip of the iceberg of the Charging Systems 101.
jick

[Taurus]

[SIZE=+2]Warning![/SIZE]
Some people tell you that you can check your alternator by disconnecting it from the battery to see if the alternator can produce enough current to keep the engine running. BAD IDEA! Disconnecting the battery will subject the voltage regulator (and computer and audio equipment...) to significant voltage spikes which may cause an otherwise good alternator to fail. Even if there were no damaging spikes, this test would not indicate whether or not the alternator was good because the engine will easily run with a weak or failing alternator.
Simple Test: If you want to see if your alternator is producing current, turn on your headlights when you're parked and the engine idling with the headlights shining on a wall (at night). Notice how bright they are. Then turn the engine off. The lights should get dimmer when you turn the engine off. If the lights get brighter when you kill the engine, the alternator was not charging sufficiently. When doing this test, the lights should be the only load (turn the stereo, a/c and other accessories off). With a heavy load, an otherwise good alternator may not be able to produce sufficient amounts of current at idle.

[yope07]

[SIZE=+2]Warning![/SIZE]
Some people tell you that you can check your alternator by disconnecting it from the battery to see if the alternator can produce enough current to keep the engine running. BAD IDEA! Disconnecting the battery will subject the voltage regulator (and computer and audio equipment...) to significant voltage spikes which may cause an otherwise good alternator to fail. Even if there were no damaging spikes, this test would not indicate whether or not the alternator was good because the engine will easily run with a weak or failing alternator.
Simple Test: If you want to see if your alternator is producing current, turn on your headlights when you're parked and the engine idling with the headlights shining on a wall (at night). Notice how bright they are. Then turn the engine off. The lights should get dimmer when you turn the engine off. If the lights get brighter when you kill the engine, the alternator was not charging sufficiently. When doing this test, the lights should be the only load (turn the stereo, a/c and other accessories off). With a heavy load, an otherwise good alternator may not be able to produce sufficient amounts of current at idle.

my ride (civic vti a/t) was also a victim of the typhoon ondoy. had the engine fixed na and other electrical wirings. at first maingay yung bearings ng alternator so what i did is change the bearings so ok nawala yung ingay. after 1 week, nagloko yung kotse, minsan ayaw magstart. tick sound lang. after a few times, magstart siya. so pinacheck ko yung starter sa electrician. so ok nagstart. after ilang days ulit, ganoon na naman. tick sound ulit. by the way reduction starter ito. so ginawa nung electrician tinesting ulit, nirekta sa battery nila at gumagana naman. so walang prob ang starter. naisip ko baka alternator ang prob. so sinunod ko itong troubleshoot na ito, naging dimmer naman ang headlyts pag off ko ng engine. DOES IT MEAN NA YUNG BATTERY KO NA ANG MAY PROBLEM>? HELP mga gurus.

[polyg]

mga sir,
tama po ba pag yung reading nang voltmeter is lower than 13.8V with headlight and air conditioning on, sira na po yung alternator?
How to Troubleshoot a Honda Civic Alternator | eHow

ano po ung recommended ampere nang alternator for stock civic?
ano rin po yung value nang voltmeter for overcharging alternator? thanks

[jick.cejoco]

Mga experts, totoo po ba yung tricks o troubleshooter technique sa alternator na Once na tinnangal yung negative clamp habang umaandar yung auto and then namatay, my sira o may diperensya yung alternator?? Effective po ba iyon. TnX im aDvance

joseph,
there had been discussions on this topic. it is wrong for any "mechanic" to mess with the electrial system and electronic systems associated with it. please request the moderator for the previous discussions on this matter. it is a recurring question that has been anwered in the past. we are regurgitating this again. do not disconnect any battery terminal while the engine is running if you don't want electrical damage or electronic surprises. again, request for previous threads on this.
jick

[max-o]

just buy a multitester mura lang naman less than 200petot,pang iwas sa mga siraniko.

[jick.cejoco]

just buy a multitester mura lang naman less than 200petot,pang iwas sa mga siraniko.

max,
tools don't make a technician. with today's cars you need more than mechanics. you need educated, trained and experienced technicians with the proper tools and equipment, with the proper knowledge, diagnostic skills and repair skills. i wish it was all that easy as you make it sound like. let us keep learning and keeping up with the transportation industry
jick

[alwayz_yummy]

basta sa multi tester, while the engine is not running, voltage on the terminals of the battery should be atleast 11.1V

while the engine is running, it should be 12.1V-14.5V depending sa loading(buhay na accessories)

if below 12V, di na kumakarga ng maganda ang alternator...madidischarge na battery mo.pagawa mo na yan!

if above 14.5V alternator mo--sisirain nyan battery mo, worst case--sumabog. maaring sira na ung regulator/IC-regulator ng alternator mo.

[max-o]

max,
tools don't make a technician. with today's cars you need more than mechanics. you need educated, trained and experienced technicians with the proper tools and equipment, with the proper knowledge, diagnostic skills and repair skills. i wish it was all that easy as you make it sound like. let us keep learning and keeping up with the transportation industry
jick

jick,
been doing that to avoid those inexpereinced technicians.my digital tester helps a lot when it comes to battery/alternator problems,at least i know which of the two is busted.

[oj88]

The battery is like a giant capacitor that helps the alternator supply the car's electronics and accessories with filtered DC current. Disconnecting the battery while the engine is still running will introduce pulsating DC to the electrical system. And since modern cars are highly dependent on a filtered supply of DC, it can affect the ECM/PCM logic, sensors, etc. Problems can range from being temporary (ie. the engine shuts down) to something permanent (ie. weakest link in the chain of semiconductors bites the dust).

The way I test it is to take the baseline voltage of the battery with the engine turned off and comparing it later with a sample battery voltage while the engine is running. Then further take voltage tests with the accessories and lights working. And finally, rev it a few times and see if the regulator is working by observing the output of the voltmeter.