2nd hand car!

[Rookie54]

Feedback naman........about A/T car.......im planning to buy one....medyo mura ang mazda automatic....kasi yon lang abot ag budget....ano ba disadvantage ng A/T?sirain ba yon?

[niky]

What particular Mazda, and what budget?

I don't recommend getting secondhand automatics, especially not Mazdas.

For one, you never know how well the previous owner cared for it, and AT problems usually have one solution... buy another (surplus) transmission to replace the broken one...

Also, old Mazda ATs aren't fuel efficient, and are prone to the odd breakdown. Unless you're very sure of the car you're buying, better look at something else.

[Rookie54]

tnx! mazda familia.......96 - 99 model....200 lang kasi ang budget....

[Memphis Raines]

tnx! mazda familia.......96 - 99 model....200 lang kasi ang budget....

For 200k, you can get better brands/makes like a 1.3 Corolla or Sentra. Just remember, don't rush yourself especially if you want an AT.

[k2tingx]

Feedback naman........about A/T car.......im planning to buy one....medyo mura ang mazda automatic....kasi yon lang abot ag budget....ano ba disadvantage ng A/T?sirain ba yon?

2nd hand automatic gulped like a camel... and there is no quenching this thirst.. if you have enoguh dough for gas consumption, go for it... but i do suggest for everyday use.. go for '95 model 1.3L manual cars in the market.. its not too deep for your pocket!

[dennis powell]

Feedback naman........about A/T car.......im planning to buy one....medyo mura ang mazda automatic....kasi yon lang abot ag budget....ano ba disadvantage ng A/T?sirain ba yon?

alam mo,kahit anong klaseng kotse may disadvantage,ang advantage lang dun ay nasa driver or owner,unang una ay yung driving habit,eh kung kaskasero ba naman yung driver,kahit gaano pa katibay yung kotse mo masisira pa rin,dahil nga sa driving habit (bad).at second ay maintenance care(regular oil change,atf flush,detailing,general inspection,tire rotation/balance,wheel alignment,etc.)yun lang advantage ng kotse,kaya kung bibili ka ng kotse,test it drive yourself,but before that,specially a/t,start the engine and step on the brake pedal and then shift the lever to all gears,and raise the rpm to 1500,it should smooth,kung may grabbing,wag mo na bilhin kase maraming problema yan,but be sure to engage the e brake,yan ang una mong gawin, if not, test the engine performance kung may power ba yan,mapefeel mo ang power kung sanay ka sa kotse,.drive it,feel and hear some noises if there is one,find a huge space for testing,run the car for about 10 to 20 mph and then make a sharp turn,left and right,,if you hear a clanking sound dont buy it,find a bump and run over the bump about 10 to 15 mph and let go off the steering wheel,if you feel a bump steer,dont buy it,..just be carefull.

[niky]

The clanking might just be worn bushings, not really that bad... but if you feel a tok-tok-tok in a turn, that's a worn CV Joint, and if the owner doesn't have it fixed, you should ask for a big discount or just look for another car.

find a bump and run over the bump about 10 to 15 mph and let go off the steering wheel,if you feel a bump steer,dont buy it,..just be carefull.

That's a little unfair to Mazdas. In general, they react more easily to bumps and cambers than other cars because of the steering. Bump steer may indicate sensitivity of steering rather than any actual problem.

The rest, though... is true. An AT car shouldn't shudder if you gas it to about 1500-2000 rpm against the brake (torque converter lockup should only happen over 2500-3000 rpm)... also check if it gets unnaturally hot in traffic.

[dennis powell]

The clanking might just be worn bushings, not really that bad... but if you feel a tok-tok-tok in a turn, that's a worn CV Joint, and if the owner doesn't have it fixed, you should ask for a big discount or just look for another car.



That's a little unfair to Mazdas. In general, they react more easily to bumps and cambers than other cars because of the steering. Bump steer may indicate sensitivity of steering rather than any actual problem.

The rest, though... is true. An AT car shouldn't shudder if you gas it to about 1500-2000 rpm against the brake (torque converter lockup should only happen over 2500-3000 rpm)... also check if it gets unnaturally hot in traffic.

no its not only for mazda, but for any car,and besides of that,it is normal that the steering wheel will react whenever the tire hit the rough surface/bump, what i mean about bump steer is that the vehicle may veer to the right or left just right after the bump and it may happen only if there is a problem in the steering or suspension components,isipin mo kung bakit mo bilhin ang kotseng yan while during test drive you hear a clanking noise/unusual sound. bat ka pa hihingi ng discount,eh worn bushing lang and not that really bad eh di mapagawa ng may ari and baka meron pang malalaking prob yan na tinatago lang ng may ari and after a while lalabas din,di ba?

[niky]

Depends, I guess, on the nature of the sound... but yeah, I guess if it's a loud sound, better safe than sorry.

You just have to look around on the Mazda boards (like protegetech.org) to find out what sounds are normal for Mazdas of this age, and what sounds aren't.

RE: veering after bumps or potholes... that's the exact definition of bump steer.

Like I said, it depends on the car. Mazdas aren't like Corollas or Sentras, which usually track straight no matter what's happening at the wheels. They tend to follow the road more. I've heard brand new Escape/Tribute owners complain about steering veering to the side on the road, when what is actually wrong is that they're not used to such sensitive steering.

It's even worse if the previous owner has installed performance tires, which tend to exaggerate this.

The best way to tell if it's the nature of the road or a problem with the car is to drive the other way down the same road, and on the same side of the road. If it veers to the right going one way and veers left going the other, it's normal and merely due to relatively aggressive camber or tires. If it veers right both times, then there may be a problem.

[take1bar]

The clanking might just be worn bushings, not really that bad... but if you feel a tok-tok-tok in a turn, that's a worn CV Joint, and if the owner doesn't have it fixed, you should ask for a big discount or just look for another car.



That's a little unfair to Mazdas. In general, they react more easily to bumps and cambers than other cars because of the steering. Bump steer may indicate sensitivity of steering rather than any actual problem.

The rest, though... is true. An AT car shouldn't shudder if you gas it to about 1500-2000 rpm against the brake (torque converter lockup should only happen over 2500-3000 rpm)... also check if it gets unnaturally hot in traffic.

BAKIT KA PA HIHINGI NG MALAKING DISCOUNT AY SIRA NGA ANG KOTSE NA BINIBILI MO, PAGAWA NA LNG MUNA NG MAY ARI D BA AND SAKA NA LNG ULI KAYO MAG-USAP, KALOKOHAN NA PAYUHAN MO NG "ASK FOR BIG DISCOUNT". KUNG MATINO KA TALAGA AT HINDI KA FROM MENTAL HOSPITAL HINDI KA NAMAN BIBILI NG BULOK NA PAGKAIN SA PALENGKE

[cyrusblutrooper]

^^^^^^^^^OOOPPPS......alta presyon ba yan?

[simplicity]

sabay sabay . . .

himasin ang earlobes at sabay bigkas ng . . .
"whoozaaah"

[niky]

BAKIT KA PA HIHINGI NG MALAKING DISCOUNT AY SIRA NGA ANG KOTSE NA BINIBILI MO, PAGAWA NA LNG MUNA NG MAY ARI D BA AND SAKA NA LNG ULI KAYO MAG-USAP, KALOKOHAN NA PAYUHAN MO NG "ASK FOR BIG DISCOUNT". KUNG MATINO KA TALAGA AT HINDI KA FROM MENTAL HOSPITAL HINDI KA NAMAN BIBILI NG BULOK NA PAGKAIN SA PALENGKE

Bwahahaha... nakakahilo talaga ang mga posts mo, 'tol. Mental Hospital? Hmmm... nag-duty din naman ako dati sa Ward 7 sa PGH... so medyo may alam ako sa mga nasisiraan ng bait. :hysterical:

Bulok na pagkain sa palengke? Depende. Ano ang pinakabulok na tsikot na alam mo? Say, 1970's na Ford Escort. Bibilhin mo ng 3,000 to 5,000 pesos, halos kalawang at gulong lang ang natitira (puwede nga libre pa...). I-restore mo for about 150,000 pesos... kalokohan, di ba? Pero puwede mong i-carshow, at makita ng collector, or ilagay mo sa E-Bay at makikita ng mga taga-US o UK. Ang likely na selling price mo, maybe 350,000 - 500,000 pesos. Not bad, di ba? (galing ito sa Ford Escort Club... grabeng taas ng bidding prices ng mga Kano sa mga restored rides nila... nauubusan nga daw sila dahil nabebenta ang mga tsikot nila at pinapadala sa US)

Hindi naman ganoong ka-spectacular pag Mazda 323... pero... bili ka ng 323 na maraming problema... baratin mo yung seller... say... 90,000 (maraming sira, kasi...)... i-repair mo for 25,000. Ibenta mo nang 150,000... Good deal? Dito kumikita ang mga "Buy and Sell"... buy low, repair, sell high.

Dito ka rin puwedeng mag-save kung buyer ka... kung may problema, estimate mo yung repairs... ibawas mo sa price ng vehicle... tapos bawas ka pa, dahil mahihirapan ka siyempre mag-ayos, di ba? So, kung 170,000 yung asking sa 323, kung may CV Joint problem, pabawas ng 10,000... manipis yung tires? pabawas ng 15,000... etcetera, etcetera, etcetera...

Gets? Kung ayaw pumayag ng may-ari... eh di... forget it...

[ogitzz]

ako gusto ko second hand car...m/t..pero ok naman ang A/T katulad ng Pajero ng uncle ko....maganda naman ang pagkaalaga ng first owner..kya depende na sa inyo kung papaano mo pipiliin yung car na bibilhin mo...eh mabuti magdala ka ng expert mechanic when you buy a car...maganda naman ang mazda..

take a deep breath in buying a second hand car...masasayang lang ang pera at time sa repair if hindi ka wise buyer...

merry christmas bro.

[J-C]

Merry Christmas! With P200t you can afford to shop around. Look carefully and don't hurry or don't be hurried. It will cost you in the long run as everybody here knows.

[squala]

The thing about 2nd Hand A/Ts isn't always true. I have here two 10 year-old cars, 1 M/T and 1 A/T. The former's clutch system has already been replaced twice, while the latter hasn't been mechanically serviced yet, well, other than ATF changes.

Based on the specs, Toyota A/Ts have the least performance and economy loss compared to their M/T counterparts. A well-maintained Corolla GLi A/T shouldn't cause you problems, even if it's over a decade old. You can also find affordable surplus transmissions as the need arises.

[kmo]

you can add a little more and you can already get a vti ek civic a/t

[Egan101]

By the way, allot ka ng budget for repairs and other part changes sa kukunin mong 2nd hand car. Just to make sure. If you can extend your budget to 300k, mas dadami options mo. May makukuha kang 2000 Nissan Exalta STA dyan na less than 300k or perhaps 97-99 AT model na Civics, Corollas, Lancers, Galants, at Accords.