2nd hand car!

[Rookie54]

Feedback naman........about A/T car.......im planning to buy one....medyo mura ang mazda automatic....kasi yon lang abot ag budget....ano ba disadvantage ng A/T?sirain ba yon?

[niky]

What particular Mazda, and what budget?

I don't recommend getting secondhand automatics, especially not Mazdas.

For one, you never know how well the previous owner cared for it, and AT problems usually have one solution... buy another (surplus) transmission to replace the broken one...

Also, old Mazda ATs aren't fuel efficient, and are prone to the odd breakdown. Unless you're very sure of the car you're buying, better look at something else.

[Rookie54]

tnx! mazda familia.......96 - 99 model....200 lang kasi ang budget....

[k2tingx]

Feedback naman........about A/T car.......im planning to buy one....medyo mura ang mazda automatic....kasi yon lang abot ag budget....ano ba disadvantage ng A/T?sirain ba yon?

2nd hand automatic gulped like a camel... and there is no quenching this thirst.. if you have enoguh dough for gas consumption, go for it... but i do suggest for everyday use.. go for '95 model 1.3L manual cars in the market.. its not too deep for your pocket!

[dennis powell]

Feedback naman........about A/T car.......im planning to buy one....medyo mura ang mazda automatic....kasi yon lang abot ag budget....ano ba disadvantage ng A/T?sirain ba yon?

alam mo,kahit anong klaseng kotse may disadvantage,ang advantage lang dun ay nasa driver or owner,unang una ay yung driving habit,eh kung kaskasero ba naman yung driver,kahit gaano pa katibay yung kotse mo masisira pa rin,dahil nga sa driving habit (bad).at second ay maintenance care(regular oil change,atf flush,detailing,general inspection,tire rotation/balance,wheel alignment,etc.)yun lang advantage ng kotse,kaya kung bibili ka ng kotse,test it drive yourself,but before that,specially a/t,start the engine and step on the brake pedal and then shift the lever to all gears,and raise the rpm to 1500,it should smooth,kung may grabbing,wag mo na bilhin kase maraming problema yan,but be sure to engage the e brake,yan ang una mong gawin, if not, test the engine performance kung may power ba yan,mapefeel mo ang power kung sanay ka sa kotse,.drive it,feel and hear some noises if there is one,find a huge space for testing,run the car for about 10 to 20 mph and then make a sharp turn,left and right,,if you hear a clanking sound dont buy it,find a bump and run over the bump about 10 to 15 mph and let go off the steering wheel,if you feel a bump steer,dont buy it,..just be carefull.

[niky]

The clanking might just be worn bushings, not really that bad... but if you feel a tok-tok-tok in a turn, that's a worn CV Joint, and if the owner doesn't have it fixed, you should ask for a big discount or just look for another car.

find a bump and run over the bump about 10 to 15 mph and let go off the steering wheel,if you feel a bump steer,dont buy it,..just be carefull.

That's a little unfair to Mazdas. In general, they react more easily to bumps and cambers than other cars because of the steering. Bump steer may indicate sensitivity of steering rather than any actual problem.

The rest, though... is true. An AT car shouldn't shudder if you gas it to about 1500-2000 rpm against the brake (torque converter lockup should only happen over 2500-3000 rpm)... also check if it gets unnaturally hot in traffic.

[Memphis Raines]

tnx! mazda familia.......96 - 99 model....200 lang kasi ang budget....

For 200k, you can get better brands/makes like a 1.3 Corolla or Sentra. Just remember, don't rush yourself especially if you want an AT.

[dennis powell]

The clanking might just be worn bushings, not really that bad... but if you feel a tok-tok-tok in a turn, that's a worn CV Joint, and if the owner doesn't have it fixed, you should ask for a big discount or just look for another car.



That's a little unfair to Mazdas. In general, they react more easily to bumps and cambers than other cars because of the steering. Bump steer may indicate sensitivity of steering rather than any actual problem.

The rest, though... is true. An AT car shouldn't shudder if you gas it to about 1500-2000 rpm against the brake (torque converter lockup should only happen over 2500-3000 rpm)... also check if it gets unnaturally hot in traffic.

no its not only for mazda, but for any car,and besides of that,it is normal that the steering wheel will react whenever the tire hit the rough surface/bump, what i mean about bump steer is that the vehicle may veer to the right or left just right after the bump and it may happen only if there is a problem in the steering or suspension components,isipin mo kung bakit mo bilhin ang kotseng yan while during test drive you hear a clanking noise/unusual sound. bat ka pa hihingi ng discount,eh worn bushing lang and not that really bad eh di mapagawa ng may ari and baka meron pang malalaking prob yan na tinatago lang ng may ari and after a while lalabas din,di ba?

[niky]

Depends, I guess, on the nature of the sound... but yeah, I guess if it's a loud sound, better safe than sorry.

You just have to look around on the Mazda boards (like protegetech.org) to find out what sounds are normal for Mazdas of this age, and what sounds aren't.

RE: veering after bumps or potholes... that's the exact definition of bump steer.

Like I said, it depends on the car. Mazdas aren't like Corollas or Sentras, which usually track straight no matter what's happening at the wheels. They tend to follow the road more. I've heard brand new Escape/Tribute owners complain about steering veering to the side on the road, when what is actually wrong is that they're not used to such sensitive steering.

It's even worse if the previous owner has installed performance tires, which tend to exaggerate this.

The best way to tell if it's the nature of the road or a problem with the car is to drive the other way down the same road, and on the same side of the road. If it veers to the right going one way and veers left going the other, it's normal and merely due to relatively aggressive camber or tires. If it veers right both times, then there may be a problem.

[ogitzz]

ako gusto ko second hand car...m/t..pero ok naman ang A/T katulad ng Pajero ng uncle ko....maganda naman ang pagkaalaga ng first owner..kya depende na sa inyo kung papaano mo pipiliin yung car na bibilhin mo...eh mabuti magdala ka ng expert mechanic when you buy a car...maganda naman ang mazda..

take a deep breath in buying a second hand car...masasayang lang ang pera at time sa repair if hindi ka wise buyer...

merry christmas bro.

[J-C]

Merry Christmas! With P200t you can afford to shop around. Look carefully and don't hurry or don't be hurried. It will cost you in the long run as everybody here knows.

[squala]

The thing about 2nd Hand A/Ts isn't always true. I have here two 10 year-old cars, 1 M/T and 1 A/T. The former's clutch system has already been replaced twice, while the latter hasn't been mechanically serviced yet, well, other than ATF changes.

Based on the specs, Toyota A/Ts have the least performance and economy loss compared to their M/T counterparts. A well-maintained Corolla GLi A/T shouldn't cause you problems, even if it's over a decade old. You can also find affordable surplus transmissions as the need arises.

[kmo]

you can add a little more and you can already get a vti ek civic a/t

[Egan101]

By the way, allot ka ng budget for repairs and other part changes sa kukunin mong 2nd hand car. Just to make sure. If you can extend your budget to 300k, mas dadami options mo. May makukuha kang 2000 Nissan Exalta STA dyan na less than 300k or perhaps 97-99 AT model na Civics, Corollas, Lancers, Galants, at Accords.

[rodiz75]

payo ko lang sayo pre kung 200 k and budget mo. wag mo ubusin lahat sa pagbili ng 2nd hand car magtira ka around 10 - 20 k for the maintenance. kasi di lalabas agad ang mga sira sa one time test driving lang. yung ibang nagbebenta malulupit pinareremedyohan muna lahat ng sira bago ibenta and after a few months sakit na ng ulo. And dont go for the titles of the owners ha kesyo doktor sila ung iba abogado madami daw kotse. dont go for that ****. di naman sila ang bibilhin mo kundi yung kotse. kung di ka talaga marunong tumingin have it check sa casa nalang kung papayag yung owner kahit hati kayo just to make sure ok yung car. I bought a 2nd hand accord A/T pinatignan ko muna sa casa then after ma clear tsaka ko binayaran. ok lang gumastos ng 3K kesa magtapon ka ng 200 K. Be careful nga pala sa pagpili ng A/T medyo delikado yan compared sa manual(pagsira yari ka).

[k2tingx]

since you have allotted 200k for 2nd hand car... be ready for its freebies... sakit ng ulo.... i hope lang na suwertehin ka sa mabili mo... finding a good running 2nd hand (more or less 10years) car.. is like finding a needle in a haystack.. based on my experience

[rey_rya]

Kung talagang nagagandahan ka sa particular car na yan, why dont you just reserve some money to replace the a/t kung magkaproblema later on? Malamang marami namang surplus na a/t, di ba? Good Luck!

[matrix150A]

guys hello poh! im planning to buy a 2nd hand car din poh, ano po masusuggest nyo? around 300k ang budget...

[syler]

ako same with the 200k budget, anong corolla ang fit sa budget na to? how bout esi?

[Lucius]

ESIs were like here ages na. Lugi. I suggest you get a Sentra. We own a Sentra na 10 yrs na, M/T though. If you want a 2nd hand, better go with a Toyota / Mitsubishi / Nissan. Mazdas during the 90s are trash lang from Japan. Parang scrap metal. Unlike the looks ng Toyota, Mitsubishi and Nissan sa 90s. M/T ka muna before shifting to A/T. Mas maganda lahat ng transmission alam mo. What if in the future na you decided to buy a car using the Tiptronic technology. Or ung StepTronic ng Porsche (don't know how it works).

Parang school lang, Nursery muna before Kinder =) Then silip na sa mga teachers hahahahahaha!