Where can I get soundproofing for hood/firewall/floors/headliner/etc.?

[han28]

Anyone know where I can get soundproofing done for the more uncommon areas?

The typical audio shop doesn't offer for these areas.

Thanks in advance.

[jhnkvn]

Anyone know where I can get soundproofing done for the more uncommon areas?

The typical audio shop doesn't offer for these areas.

Thanks in advance.

Then you'll be looking at car audio specialty stores. Where's your location?

[han28]

Then you'll be looking at car audio specialty stores. Where's your location?

jhnkvn, Ortigas Center area.

[jhnkvn]

jhnkvn, Ortigas Center area.

Closest would probably be Pasig area - Mach2Audio and Mickeys Audio Sound in Amang Rodriguez.. dulo nun is Ortigas Ave. Extension.

[jay185]

Sa north san recommended?

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

[jhnkvn]

North as in Bulacan North or Antipolo North? Your general location please ;)

[jay185]

North bulacan

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

[jhnkvn]

North bulacan

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

Take a trip sa Banawe Go check out Candyshop, JetCar, Maspro among others. Too bad DawgAudio is undergoing renovation.

[jay185]

Take a trip sa Banawe Go check out Candyshop, JetCar, Maspro among others. Too bad DawgAudio is undergoing renovation.

Kahit sino sa kanila boss? Tumatangap din kaya sila ng card?

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

[wezz_zzew]

Try to copy/paste this link on your browser.

http://tsikot.com/forums/car-audio-v...25/index7.html

Based on experience, ok naman ung performance nung nabili ko Deadening Sheets. Last Week, I installed sa hood ko para mabawasan ung rattle. nag work naman. Still planning to install sa mga door panels kaso tinatamad pa ko dahil mejo matrabaho kalasin. Suggestion ko lang, if you have time, DIY na lang. You will save more and you may also learn something na pwede mo magamit in future or i-share sa iba.

[jhnkvn]

Kahit sino sa kanila boss? Tumatangap din kaya sila ng card?

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

Nope. With the probable exception of DawgAudio (they cater to the mid-to-high end market kasi in terms of services), those in Banawe doesn't have POS systems that you can take advantage of credit cards. Cash lang sila

===
As to whether to cheapen your deadeners or not, that's up to you. In most cases, I highly advice paying extra for butyl rubber deadeners over asphalt. You might not see the benefits now or a year after but you'll eventually reap its benefits for fewer headaches down the road. The only time I can suggest asphalt is for floor deadener use.

A copy-paste of "melting deadenings" topic in KAC's Total Audio section:

Deadening
by iddle_hans on Sun Jun 16, 2013 9:35 am

Mga sir quick question normal lang ba na nag melt yung deadening pag mainit ang araw? Natutunaw kasi yung sakin installed by candyshop hassle kasi ilang jeans ko na ang namachahan eh

Thanks
iddle_hans
Posts: 55
Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2008 1:50 pm
Location: paranaque

Re: Deadening
by jhnkvn on Sun Jun 16, 2013 11:18 am

As manufacturers such as Dynamat, Second Skin, STP, etc. use different compositions on their sound deadener/insulation sheets, it's hard to tell which percentage composes what. However, usual cheapo stick-and-run types of deadeners (those costing around 250 pesos per sheet) are usually asphalt-based rather than butyl rubber because, for one, asphalt is cheap.

Problem here is that asphalt isn't really recommended for in-car applications especially in a hot and humid environment such as the Philippines. Rubberized asphalt has a rather low melting point (hence natutunaw) compared to rubberized butyl. It also becomes hard and brittle on negative or low temperatures while it becomes soft and melts at 80 degrees Celsius. And that melting point is actually pretty easy to reach once you think about the number of hours your paint's exposed to the sun. Of course, this number changes based on the material grade (there's also low and high grade asphalt/butyl/rubber) and composition but keep it as a general rule of thumb.

This is where the "you-get-what-you-pay-for" in terms of long-term headache free maintenance. This is also the reason I try to tell off people using asphalt-based sheets.

[jay185]

Nope. With the probable exception of DawgAudio (they cater to the mid-to-high end market kasi in terms of services), those in Banawe doesn't have POS systems that you can take advantage of credit cards. Cash lang sila

===
As to whether to cheapen your deadeners or not, that's up to you. In most cases, I highly advice paying extra for butyl rubber deadeners over asphalt. You might not see the benefits now or a year after but you'll eventually reap its benefits for fewer headaches down the road. The only time I can suggest asphalt is for floor deadener use.

A copy-paste of "melting deadenings" topic in KAC's Total Audio section:

Deadening
by iddle_hans on Sun Jun 16, 2013 9:35 am

Mga sir quick question normal lang ba na nag melt yung deadening pag mainit ang araw? Natutunaw kasi yung sakin installed by candyshop hassle kasi ilang jeans ko na ang namachahan eh

Thanks
iddle_hans
Posts: 55
Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2008 1:50 pm
Location: paranaque

Re: Deadening
by jhnkvn on Sun Jun 16, 2013 11:18 am

As manufacturers such as Dynamat, Second Skin, STP, etc. use different compositions on their sound deadener/insulation sheets, it's hard to tell which percentage composes what. However, usual cheapo stick-and-run types of deadeners (those costing around 250 pesos per sheet) are usually asphalt-based rather than butyl rubber because, for one, asphalt is cheap.

Problem here is that asphalt isn't really recommended for in-car applications especially in a hot and humid environment such as the Philippines. Rubberized asphalt has a rather low melting point (hence natutunaw) compared to rubberized butyl. It also becomes hard and brittle on negative or low temperatures while it becomes soft and melts at 80 degrees Celsius. And that melting point is actually pretty easy to reach once you think about the number of hours your paint's exposed to the sun. Of course, this number changes based on the material grade (there's also low and high grade asphalt/butyl/rubber) and composition but keep it as a general rule of thumb.

This is where the "you-get-what-you-pay-for" in terms of long-term headache free maintenance. This is also the reason I try to tell off people using asphalt-based sheets.

Thanks canvass na lang kung sino sa kanila ang cheaper.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2