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  1. Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    378
    #41
    ang dami pre, hehe, malay ko ba kung alin dun ung preferrable? ung tipong hindi magugutom ung sub ko sa Amplifier? tyka gaano kalaki ung gap between ung Sub at Ampli for Ex. ung Sub is 100w/500rms, ung amplifyer ok na ba ang 1200w na Mono?

    OT: Ok ba ang All Blaupunkt Seps? (door separates 6" and Coaxial na 6x9) kc di ko alam ang magiging effect nyan kung sasaksakan ko ng Amplifiyer eh, kc halos lahat sa thread ng Car Electronics, wala pa akong nakikitang ganyan ang Setup, Why kaya?
    Last edited by mackkcam; September 12th, 2007 at 10:00 PM. Reason: Modify

  2. Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    378
    #42
    Any one comment on Blaupunkt Separates? coaxial and door separates?

  3. Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    374
    #43
    can't remember the model na sir eh tagal na rin kasi!
    pero OK cya seperates 6incher mids and tweets at the dash powered by JBL75.4!
    anong model ba yung blau mo?

    hehehe pasensya na dami ba yan kasi ginagamit naming preference when looking for the specs ng amp! Yup a "decent" 1200 watter mono amp will do great for a 500RMS sub alalay lang sa gain ng amp baka tumalsik yung cone hehehe

    "decent" (meaning branded amps)

  4. Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    378
    #44
    *toolightz,

    GTc662, mali nga daw ang nabuy ko eh, dapat daw ung sumunod dun, para may kasamang cross over eh, tyka dapat 3-way daw? (sa front toh ha), tama ba?

    sa mid, wala naman naging comment, 3-way na seps 6x9...

    ah ic, so kaya ng i-drive un noh? 800w/400rms naman ung sub eh, max ata is 1200w/600rms... try ko i-check ulet, tama ang Mono Amp noh? try ko magsearch ng mga mono amp sa rockford, tpos, all-in a ported box sa trunk? panalo na kaya un? - ADD: ung amp for the seps, cguro pde na ung 800w na SPL? or babagayan ko na rin ng RF na amps?

  5. Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    374
    #45
    di ko rin kabisado gaano yung blau models eh!
    OK na kahit walang oem crossovers much better kung kumuha ka nalang ng 3 way crossovers dami jan! so coax na 3 way plus isang midbass o midrange yung gagamitin mo? kasi sa connection lang din ng Xover siya magdedepend kung papano mo siya icoconect (sa midrange or sa midbass ng Xover) try mo muna idedden yung doors mo para mas OK palo ng mids mo!

    Papano ba set mo? 2 amps ba or single 4 way amp for the seps and sub na?
    kung single amp ka hanap ka ng 4ch siguro mga RF 800.4 200w X 4 siya ch 1&2 sa seps then bridge mo yung 3 & 4 sa sub.
    2 amp set ka 1 400w X 2 2 way amp plus tung SPL amp mo.

  6. Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    378
    #46
    anu ung deadening? kala ko dati emoticons lng un eh, can you define please?
    sure ka? kkayanin kaya un ng front seps ko? 220w nga pala ung wattage nun, tpos 400w para sa Mid na blau 3-way, i-pangddrive ko is 800w spl 4-ch, tpos sa sub 1 mono Amp na naka ported box....

    OT: may problem nga ako sa front seps ko eh, hindi q alam kung grounded sya sa pinto or tlgang nabbsa xa ng ulan, (nawawala kc ung tunog pag nauulanan ung kotse, lalo na pag malakas)

  7. Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    374
    #47
    read this:
    http://kotseaudioclub.com/forum/view...light=dedening

    check mo yung wirings mo! delikado yan baka nga grounded tignan mo yung mga connectors nya or baka may sugat yung mga wires check from the HU to the seps baka madamay amp mo! kuha ka tester set mo sa 10k poke mo sa 2 dulo ng wires sa seps and sa HU tignan mo kung papalo sa magkaibang polars pag palo nyan grounded!!!

    kaya yan, 400.4 means 400 divided ng 4 kasi 4 way yung amp bale 100X4 cya so 100 X 2 sa seps left and right tapos bridged 2 channel so 200X1
    kung RF amps kukunin mo di naman aabot sa doble yung overrate nya cguro pinakamataas nya 120w per channel may birthsheet naman yung mga amps pagbili mo dun nakalagay yung actual ratings ng amp na yon!

    note:
    yung birthseet ay yung actual rate ng amp! tinetest ng manufucturers muna bago ilabas sa market ,so yun ang magiging basehan mo! for ex. 2 RF400.4 test nila bawat isa kung ilan ang magiging power rate ng both amp di kasi parepareho ang overatings ng bawat amp kahit pareho sila ng brands and models!!!

    hope nakatulong good luck sa set mo!!!

  8. Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    378
    #48
    Quote Originally Posted by toolightz View Post
    read this:
    http://kotseaudioclub.com/forum/view...light=dedening

    check mo yung wirings mo! delikado yan baka nga grounded tignan mo yung mga connectors nya or baka may sugat yung mga wires check from the HU to the seps baka madamay amp mo! kuha ka tester set mo sa 10k poke mo sa 2 dulo ng wires sa seps and sa HU tignan mo kung papalo sa magkaibang polars pag palo nyan grounded!!!

    kaya yan, 400.4 means 400 divided ng 4 kasi 4 way yung amp bale 100X4 cya so 100 X 2 sa seps left and right tapos bridged 2 channel so 200X1
    kung RF amps kukunin mo di naman aabot sa doble yung overrate nya cguro pinakamataas nya 120w per channel may birthsheet naman yung mga amps pagbili mo dun nakalagay yung actual ratings ng amp na yon!

    note:
    yung birthseet ay yung actual rate ng amp! tinetest ng manufucturers muna bago ilabas sa market ,so yun ang magiging basehan mo! for ex. 2 RF400.4 test nila bawat isa kung ilan ang magiging power rate ng both amp di kasi parepareho ang overatings ng bawat amp kahit pareho sila ng brands and models!!!

    hope nakatulong good luck sa set mo!!!
    yup nakatulong ka ng marami papz, salamt dun,

    papz di ko mabuksan ung pinost mo na forum link eh, bka wala na? anu ba tlga ung Deadening?

    astig pala ung KAC, nkakainggit mga setup nila eh, halos JL, JBL, RF, at kicker lng nakita ko dun eh, tyka halos lahat subs eh, hayz, panu kaya tong project ko,,

    ngddlawang icp pa rin tlga ako sa Blaupunkt na setup for seps eh, bka di kayanin pag sinaksakan ko ng amplifyer eh, bka pangit maging labas eh...

    meron ba dyang naka Blaupunkt na setup?!?! i need help on this...

    OT: btw, ung sa separates, grounded nga, sumasayad ung mismong Link ng Wire at speaker (ung kinakabitan) sa mismong body ng pinto (sa butas na nakalaan for the speakers) pero ok na xa ngaun, pakiramdaman ko na lng daw kung mauulet muli, nilgyan nya ng electrical tape ung mismong butas sa Rims nito for short...

  9. Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    374
    #49
    ah ok salamat kung nakatulong yun lang sana aim ko!

    may mga naka blau seps samin kaya lang di ko masyadong matandaan yung mga names nila

    ayaw nga magopen tagal na rin kasi nung thread na yun!
    nagregister ka na? same handle name ba ginamit mo? post ka muna sa welcome thread tapos tuloy tuloy na mababait naman yung mga mods namin wag ka lang mabebreack ng posting rules lalo na yung text speaking!!!

    Kaw ha di mo pinansin yung handle namin ha hehehe

    dedenning

    1. What is sound deadening?
    - It is a procedure in which you "dampen" the metal panels of your car (but not all of the noise comes from the metal panels, it can come from plastic sidings, etc...). It keeps those nasty vibrations in check by adding mass to those panels and prevent the metal to vibrate due to your music or road noise/conditions. In other words, sound deadening gets rid of those annoying buzzing sounds you hear when playing your music.

    2. Will sound deadening my car improve the sound of my system?
    - Yes! You may not be aware of it, but the vibrating panels of your car mixes with the music you play. It can cancel out certain frequencies, rob you of much wanted bass frequencies and it can just be plain irritating to hear that "bzzzztttt... bzzzztttt..."

    3. Is it worth it?
    - Yes, yes and yes!!!

    4. What Sound Deadening products are out there?
    - There are lots of sound deadening products out in the market. You can use branded ones like Dynamat and the like... or you could do what most people in the board have done... use Flashband! Well, use Flashband if you're on a budget. Because it's really cheap!

    - No brand comparisons here. Do it in your replies nalang.

    5. How do you install sound deadening products?
    - Real sound deadening products come in big sheets that are (well usually) specific to what part of the car you're deadening. It requires a lot of paitience to deaden your doors (this is where everyone usually starts). You need to know how to remove your door panels first. After removing the panels, clean the metal surface to ensure that the sound deadener will adhere to it. Apply the sheet and use a small roller (or spoon) to flatten and shape the deadener into the metal's contours. Usually people put in 2 layers just to be sure. But again, it depends on your budget and preference.

    - If you're gonna use Flashband... follow the steps from Gino's Sound Deadening picture gallery. Hehehe... http://www.pbase.com/gino/sound_deadening

    - Don't forget to deaden the side panel as well. It may not be metal, but it can surely vibrate if you play real loud. Learned this the hard way... after deadening the doors, I didn't deaden the side panel - and voila! Buzzing! Kainis!

    6. It's too much work. How much if I have a shop do it?
    - It depends on what product you'll be getting. For the real sound deadeners, it could cost from 1k - 2k per door, trunks cost more because it is bigger and requires more material. But the price is not fixed. It really depends on what type of product you choose. If it's Flashband you'll be using, I guess it may cost you around 6 to 650 Php.

    yan copy paste ko nalang from the reply ng good friend ko pero inedit ko na ng konti hehehehe

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Kicker Vs. JL Audio (SPL)