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February 14th, 2016 09:02 PM #13Office gave me one back in 2001.
Reliable albeit a little on the slower side but it's still a bimmer (I even had 19 inch BBS rims installed).
Only problem I had with it was when I had to travel to the US for a work related activity, was gone for a month and a half and when I came back the fuel pump got busted (barado) spent 75k ata just to have it repaired.
One tip: Use it everyday but since you'll be having it as a daily driver it should not be an issue. My CFO drives one to work araw araw maganda pa din.
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September 19th, 2016 11:29 AM #14Sir, Kamusta? natuloy ba kayo sa pagbili? Im planning to buy a secondhand unit 96-00 model. Any thoughts on this? My current vehicle is a 11 ford sedan.
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September 19th, 2016 11:34 AM #15Sira kagad yan sa monstrous traffic
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If you are wrong, turn right.
If you are right, turn left.
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September 19th, 2016 04:46 PM #16
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Verified Tsikot Member
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September 20th, 2016 08:49 AM #17not worth your time and money.
get at least a 325 if you want to go thru the hassle of owning a bimmer (old one at that), at least you get to enjoy its famous inline 6 engine which bmws are known for.
i consider it a downgrade from your civic fd to be honest.
with regards to servicing, doesn't matter if you service it outside, and get smuggled parts for it, oil change basic tune up would cost roughly the same as your fd but new bimmer owners do not realize that its the non consumable parts that are still expensive and are the ones that break often.
e46, at this age, if it hasn't been replaced, better ready your wallet for a new abs module, gm5 module, a/c compressor and evaporator, window regulators, door actuators, interior roof lining, multitude of gaskets in the engine among others.
been there done that (e53 3.0d, e36/7 1.9, e85 2.5, e46 318) no bimmer = no headache especially if its your only daily driver.
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September 20th, 2016 09:30 AM #18
They are reliable, when maintained properly. However this is a highly probable scenario when buying second hand, Euro at that. It's good to use it regularly but prudence would dictate that one still maintain a no-brainer daily driver, at least in the transition while you go over the car and get it up to spec, find a reliable shop and mechanic, etc.
Here's a good read on the reliability versus durability.
There Is a Difference Between a Reliable Car and a Durable CarLast edited by vinj; September 20th, 2016 at 09:33 AM.
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September 20th, 2016 09:33 AM #19I think a Bimmer would make an excellent project car or pang halili, but kung daily drive be prepared and have a sizable emergency fund. malakas din talaga ang dating nya kahit luma, pero I heard ang bigat din ng gastusin sa piyesa =)
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September 20th, 2016 01:08 PM #20
All cars regardless of brand and make when not maintained will obviously be not useable. Thats why the assumption is you really maintain just like any vehicle.
Now even if you do maintain a bimmer properly, it breaks down A LOT. Simply isn't reliable.
And if your definition via the article of a durable car is simply not a rust bucket, all modern cars, including e46 will be one eventually. Its metal, it will rust eventually including those 124s mentioned. Modern cars are just faster to become one. Its how cars are being made today with thin sheets of metals. My e85 has some already early on its life. Same with e46 they are prone to rust also. So they arent durable too as per the article.
Anyway the difference between old benzes and bimmers having a durable myth is because these cars had owners keep them, put money into restoring them.
If you do the same thing to any other vehicle, put money into restoring it and you too can add a durable tag to it if thats is your definition.
Thing with cars as long as you have the money and parts and willingness to maintian and restore it, you can run it forever. Just that not many people apply the same principle of keeping and restoring their econo jap boxes. But if they do its still cheaper to do so.
Puwede i try, 1. Palit air filter 2. Linis throttle body 3. Linis MAF sensor 4. Check spark...
high idle RPM at engine start