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  1. Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    2,341
    #4141
    mga sir, im a newbie in exterior/paint detailing...

    anu ano ba mga materials needed for some 3 coats of different wax, para mabalik ko kintab ng altis ko.

    Name of wax, solution, top coat, scratch remover, swirl remover, etc etc

    sana po yung madaling mabili sa mga hardware (Ace, Wilcon etc etc etc)

    yung budget mode lang po.

    *SG, kanino ba yung CRV sa ibang thread? hehe

  2. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #4142
    *scharnhorst: for that i initially sprayed degreaser on all parts, its sort of a semi waterless engine detailing since i used water on a spray bottle to rinse out certain spots so as not to really wet all the engine bay, basically i rinse it part by part, if your engine bay has mud then you might need to use water for that already, either that or patiently and slowly remove the mud, but its much faster if you have a pressurized water hose, what you do is get some huge rubber bands and cover the alternator with a cloth and then plastic bag, cover the sensors and the computer box with microfiber cloths and hit the problem parts with the water pressure while still trying to avoid these area's, for mud degreaser would help, for grease kerosene would help.

  3. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #4143
    *Chikselog: i just told him to extend the same promo to tsikot hehe

  4. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #4144
    *jmpet626: for heavy stains and lots of gunk and grease, i recommend Simple Green Max, but be careful with this one, you still have to dilute this and on stronger dilution ratio's it might whiten the rubber, but nothing a protectant couldn't restore, for light engine detailing and a much safer alternative, Simple Green Degreaser, the orange one, dilute it 1:4 up to 1:6 and the use as my BF taught you to, he mentioned you were planning on detailing a jazz? for that i would suggest you get some brushes with long handles, try to find the soft ones used for cleaning silver wares and vases, these are soft enough to not scratch the plastic but sturdy enough to remove the majority of grime, kinda hard to look for though

  5. Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    4,642
    #4145
    *madkatz
    Hehe. Kaya pala he told me that he can get me the same deal. Nag-aalala pa naman ako baka maubusan haha.

    May detailing seminar pa ba kayo? Hehe. Para sabay ko nang bilhin yung 476 and paturo na rin sa proper application. Balak ko gawin 3x coat ng 476 haha.

  6. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #4146
    *Starex_Gold: haha, well sorry to break the news but it looks like our may schedule is already full, but lets see what we can do, my BF is usually free on sundays so he can dedicate his place and a whole day to help people in detailing, as for scratches you could ask him if he could teach you how to polish, i think he already taught JM and Chicks some basic rotary skills and is just waiting for an old car for practice, another thing you could do is put over a glaze, if he still has some Megs 80 Speed glaze, that would work very well on blacks hehe, don't worry chicks, chances are its not this sunday hehe

  7. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #4147
    *jozep: well basically its

    1. wash the entire car
    2. dry the entire car
    3. apply waxes on the sides of the engine bay
    4. spray kerosene on greasy parts ( if its not greasy skip this part )
    5. spray degreaser to remove kerosene and most of the grime
    6. wipe the dirty area's and rinse the Mf in a bucket of water
    7. use brushes for certain parts and angles
    8. dry the entire engine bay with a blower
    9. spray dressing or protectant

    but i would agree with SG that to really learn it well you need to be there on the next detail session so you could see and practice hands on

  8. Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    2,237
    #4148
    *madkatz

    Where can I buy simple Green? Yup plan ko engine detail yung jazz this week hehe sobrang cramped yung engine bay ng jazz.

    *chick
    Sa Wax/Sealant layering read mo muna to


    From Megs
    http://www.meguiars.com


    /faq/index.cfm?faqCat=General+Questions&faqQuestionID=1 4&section=_14




    Layerable waxes

    A Layerable wax, is a wax that the protective ingredients used in the formula (natural and synthetic), are such that the protective layer left behind will not only adhere to the paint, but in subsequent applications, will adhere to itself. It also means that the carrying agents, be they solvent, water or something else, cannot be strong enough or in high enough concentrations to re-liquefy the previously applied layer, thus removing it during your attempt to add another layer.

    Layerable waxes are primarily pure waxes, or protectants (as synthetic formulas are referred to) that do not contain chemical cleaners, or solvents that will remove the previous layer.

    There is an exception to this rule and that is that it is possible to first apply a cleaner wax, and then apply a pure wax or pure synthetic over it.

    The Law of Diminishing Returns
    (Thomas Malthus "Essay on the Principle of Population" published in 1798.)

    While this theory is generally used to discuss topics as they relate to the areas of economics and politics, it is a model that can also be used to explain in this case, the complex action occurring at the microscopic level on the surface of your car's finish.

    The law of diminishing returns as it relates to layering,

    A surface, such as an automotive paint, can only hold so much product before all you're doing is removing all subsequent coatings applied to the surface.

    That is to say, after the first, second and in some cases a third application/coating, any more product applied to the surface is merely removed when you wipe the excess off after waiting for the product to cure.

    At this point you've reached a plateau (or limit), as to how much wax (natural or synthetic) a surface can hold. Once you reach this plateau, all further applications of wax simply become excess that will be removed (and thus wasted), during wipe-off because it has nowhere to attach and layer.

    Of course, this all depends upon your definition of the word "Layer".

    If your definition of the word layer follows that of Webster's Dictionary:

    2 a: One thickness, course, or fold, laid or lying over or under another

    Then yes, you can layer to a certain point. For example, you can add multiple layers of layerable waxes until the limit to how much a given surface of an automotive paint can hold before each additional application is simply removed, or replaces a previously applied layer.

    You cannot layer to the point of developing a measurable film-build without negatively affecting, or diminishing to some degree, the shine, optical clarity, gloss, reflectivity, depth of color etc. This is especially true if the product you're applying is not clear (in and of itself) to start with.

    If your definition of the word "layer" follows that of definition used by some on the Internet,

    Layer 1: To continually build a greater level of protection with each additional application, or layer, of a wax or protectant. (Natural or synthetic)

    Layer 2: To continually increase shine, optical clarity, gloss, reflectivity, depth of color without end and/or after a plateau, or point of maximum potential has been achieved.

    Then no, you cannot layer a wax, synthetic, natural, or otherwise.


    From 1Z

    http://www.1z-usa.com/Car-Wax-Protec...ish_ep_60.html


    “Layering”

    One of the more common questions we're asked is whether Glanz Wax can be layered. Layering is an idea that multiple layers of wax can be applied on top of one another with the belief that multiple layers will multiply the level of protection and shine.

    Here's where the “law of diminishing returns” applies. As you apply a layer of wax on top of a layer just applied, the new application will remove some of the first layer. You can only apply so much wax on top of itself. The only benefit of applying a second layer of wax is that you ensure that you applied a coat on an area where you may have missed during the first application.

  9. Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    4,642
    #4149
    If time permits, sagot ko na ang old car for practice hehe. Sana matuloy ang detailing get-together (lol) natin.

  10. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    #4150
    *SG: well if i were you i would apply 2 coats of 915 instead, i've had certain experiences with Top Coat not really playing quite well with certain waxes, i've tried Top Coat with 476 hoping to add shine and it did, but on 915 it actually made the paint a little dull where i liked the 915 look better, it also doesn't play well with p21s and souveran. but to answer your question Top Coat should be on top.

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