Radiator / Overheating Problem

[barako ba ma]

tried cleaning this with wd40 then brake cleaner
nada
still triggers the fan to run * 95c with temp warning ...
how to set the aux fan to run at maybe 88c? [emoji848][emoji848]

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Looks like your fan thermoswitch is already toasted.

For safety reasons, do not place metallic tools on top of the battery. This a candidate for fourth of July in October.

[ninjababez]

Looks like your fan thermoswitch is already toasted.

For safety reasons, do not place metallic tools on top of the battery. This a candidate for fourth of July in October.

though may plastic divider yun batt terminals, thanks for the warning [emoji4]


btw re: thermoswitch (yun pala tawag dyan sa pic?)
weird lang kasi, 95c nag detected nya which should be within optimal temp range? dati kasi as far as 98c (hottest i was able to record), wala pa warning; bakit ngayon meron na? also at 95c dun lang nag kick in ang aux fan, why not at 90c or lower? and if this sensor is busted, why am i still able to see the coolant temp?
sensya na madami tanong, medyo nagtataka lang ako talaga.

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[ninjababez]

Ummm...a new 1? Or hobo tweaking....bypass it w/ a manual switch or full time service?

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i just cleaned it with wd40 then brake cleaner bro. pero ganun parin.

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[mina_nuka]

vios 2006 (gen 1.5/1.3 L).

mga bros, temp warning light came up.
even when aux fan is running, i still get the temp warning in dash .
no recent change in the system naman, except for brake pad change about 1.5k km ago and lugnut stud issue the other day.
had it checked in jpwheels yesterday, was told that it was a bad fan, their comment was mahina daw. then went to exalta banawe, they said fan looks OK, as well as the water pump and no leak in system (cap also OK); since they could not identify the problem, they can only recommend to have the radiator checked and/or cleaned.

then i realized, i can check the temp via obd scanner, so i did. from banawe to maybunga pasig, temp never went over 98c (prolly cause it was 5:30pm narin). will update my post later around 12nn.
dati until about 98c (or 100c IIRC) ang inaabot ng coolant temp ko sa obd scanner reading via torque app.
ngayon 90c or lowest * 88c nag blink na ang temp warning sa dashboard. issue just started yesterday. naka toyota long life coolant naman, was replaced just about less than 10k km.

at first i thought it was a bad coolant sensor, but i can read naman via obd scanner that coolant temp is fine, so baka di naman sensor. any ideas kung ano pwede problem?


btw AC works fine even when the temp warning came up.

As per your writeup, the engine is obviously not overheating. It is the overheat warning light that you are concerned with. Depending where your car was manufactured, the THW or CTS or the coolant temperature sensor feeds this information to the ECM and is forwarded to the body control computer or BCM and is given off as a signal to the IPC or instrument panel cluster.
Your car might have inter-computer communication problem or your CTS is giving wrong signals. Have your car scanned for communication or U codes. What you are doing is way too far from the possible cause. You might even have IPC problems. Be very careful of mickey mouse trouble code readers and dongles.

[ninjababez]

bypass .rekta ibig bang sabihin...pano na ung cold start

try mo muna palitan 300 lang bili ko sa ganyan...

yan ang iniiwasan ko bro, yun bypass part. even when mang jorge suggested i just remove the thermostat, i insisted to install the new one (orig toyota).
btw yun sa thermoswitch, yun ba nasa pic? 3k orig brandnew eh, if 300 php lang replacement and good for kahit 1 month bili ako just to test; but where can i source them?

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[mina_nuka]

With all due respect to manong jorge, stay away from macgyver style or approach. This is where the fine line lies between technicians and anecdotal mechanics

[mina_nuka]

yan ang iniiwasan ko bro, yun bypass part. even when mang jorge suggested i just remove the thermostat, i insisted to install the new one (orig toyota).
btw yun sa thermoswitch, yun ba nasa pic? 3k orig brandnew eh, if 300 php lang replacement and good for kahit 1 month bili ako just to test; but where can i source them?

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To test, you need:
A good reliable thermometer
A digital multimeter
A sauce pot of at least 1 quart capacity
A stove
1/2 quart water
Two wires with connectors for the sensor terminal



Connect the thermoswitch to the wires and connect to a digital multimeter in Ohms range or continuity mode.
Submerge in water in the pot as the water is being heated
Note the temperature at which the resistance in Ohms is zero or close to zero or the continuity mode beeps.
(MITSUBISHI recommends doing this in hot oil -which is a fire hazard)

[chronicle]

As per your writeup, the engine is obviously not overheating. It is the overheat warning light that you are concerned with. Depending where your car was manufactured, the THW or CTS or the coolant temperature sensor feeds this information to the ECM and is forwarded to the body control computer or BCM and is given off as a signal to the IPC or instrument panel cluster.
Your car might have inter-computer communication problem or your CTS is giving wrong signals. Have your car scanned for communication or U codes. What you are doing is way too far from the possible cause. You might even have IPC problems. Be very careful of mickey mouse trouble code readers and dongles.

An ECU reset maybe?

[12vdc]

yan ang iniiwasan ko bro, yun bypass part. even when mang jorge suggested i just remove the thermostat, i insisted to install the new one (orig toyota).
btw yun sa thermoswitch, yun ba nasa pic? 3k orig brandnew eh, if 300 php lang replacement and good for kahit 1 month bili ako just to test; but where can i source them?

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What is the mileage? Red LLC is good for 150k and by the looks of the sensor, its silted. Could be a busted pump impeller the water is not circulating well and causing heat spots in the engine.

WPump Aisin for 1.3 is arnd 1.2k while for the 1.5 GNB arnd 1.5k and 2.5k for the Aisin.

If the computer can't read the problem for you, you are down with doing basic elimination method which will costs you time.

[ninjababez]

An ECU reset maybe?

ang reset palang nagawa ko bro kahapon is remove battery terminal for 2 minutes. pero ganun parin.

[ninjababez]

What is the mileage? Red LLC is good for 150k and by the looks of the sensor, its silted. Could be a busted pump impeller the water is not circulating well and causing heat spots in the engine.

WPump Aisin for 1.3 is arnd 1.2k while for the 1.5 GNB arnd 1.5k and 2.5k for the Aisin.

If the computer can't read the problem for you, you are down with doing basic elimination method which will costs you time.

bro ano yun red LLC?
mileage is 221k km
btw bro, yun aisin and GNB water pump price, thats for vios na? palitan ko nalang din kaya since wear and tear naman ito, if OK pa condition atleast may reseba ako.
kasi nung mag inquire ako sa mga tao sa banawe parang 4k daw yun plus 2.5k labor O_o

[ninjababez]

To test, you need:
A good reliable thermometer
A digital multimeter
A sauce pot of at least 1 quart capacity
A stove
1/2 quart water
Two wires with connectors for the sensor terminal



Connect the thermoswitch to the wires and connect to a digital multimeter in Ohms range or continuity mode.
Submerge in water in the pot as the water is being heated
Note the temperature at which the resistance in Ohms is zero or close to zero or the continuity mode beeps.
(MITSUBISHI recommends doing this in hot oil -which is a fire hazard)

will try this sa thermostat and dun sa kakapost ko lang (thermoswitch ba?) may nakita naman ako youtube video ng DIY
hanap nalang ako ng disposable cookware sa bahay hehehe

[StockEngine]

palitan mo na yun water pump. with 221,000km+

thats over 10,000hrs already on the bearing if the aveage speed is 20kph.

[ninjababez]

palitan mo na yun water pump. with 221,000km+

thats over 10,000hrs already on the bearing if the aveage speed is 20kph.

napalitan daw about 60-70k km ago bro. ill replace this na nga siguro, pero confirm ko lang yun aisin pricing and store hehehe

[12vdc]

bro ano yun red LLC?
mileage is 221k km
btw bro, yun aisin and GNB water pump price, thats for vios na? palitan ko nalang din kaya since wear and tear naman ito, if OK pa condition atleast may reseba ako.
kasi nung mag inquire ako sa mga tao sa banawe parang 4k daw yun plus 2.5k labor O_o

Malapit kana makarating sa buwan, dapat nga ma inspect/palit na yan.

Red/pink LLC long life coolant or super long-life coolant yun oem. Magkaiba yun WPump ng 1.3(2nZ) sa 1.5(1nz), para sigurado pakita mo 1st 5digits ng VIN sa tindahan..

[ninjababez]

Malapit kana makarating sa buwan, dapat nga ma inspect/palit na yan.


Red/pink LLC long life coolant or super long-life coolant yun oem. Magkaiba yun WPump ng 1.3(2nZ) sa 1.5(1nz), para sigurado pakita mo 1st 5digits ng VIN sa tindahan..

ahh less than nasa 5k km mahigit palang last coolant change ko (LLC from toyota) pero tinapon lang ni mang jeorge
btw 1st gen 1.3 sabihin ko plus vin number, baka may store recommendation kayo sa banawe yun water pump, ito lang yun maliit na dinadaanan ng belts?

[StockEngine]

ahh less than nasa 5k km mahigit palang last coolant change ko (LLC from toyota) pero tinapon lang ni mang jeorge
btw 1st gen 1.3 sabihin ko plus vin number, baka may store recommendation kayo sa banawe yun water pump, ito lang yun maliit na dinadaanan ng belts?

ito bro. daming matututunan...

Water Pump > Aisin Aftermarket

[ninjababez]

ito bro. daming matututunan...

Water Pump > Aisin Aftermarket

salamat bro! watching vids online, i think kailangan ko pagawa sa mechanic muna; para makita ko paano pasukin LOL
pero mukhang kaya DIY after ko makita pano baklasin hehehe

btw found this thread in vcp .. not exactly the same issue but close

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author=jcboy link=topic=40695.msg927223#msg927223 date=1414676153
Go with the cheapest route ALWAYS. (well as much as possible)

1) replace with original Radiator CAP --often neglected.
2) replace thermoswitch --original as what has been mentioned, since aftermarket thermoswitches are not calibrated with OEM specs (degrees Celsius when opening), let alone racing thermoswitches have a lower "open" temp.
3) replace thermostat --or just check it. rarely do thermostats break down. siguro 10-15 years is the average lifespan sa mga nasisiraan nito, pero of course 7-10 years pwede mo na siguro palitan.
4) check/replace rad fan --minsan kahit umiikot hindi na pala ganun kabilis/kalakas, kaya you need to have 2nd opinions kung kumusta ba pagikot ng rad fan mo.
5) replace radiator --minsan barado na pala sa ilalim kaya hindi umiikot tubig. yung kalawang kasi ng radiator sa ilalim nagaaccumulate. kaya minsan kahit malinaw pag sinilip sa butas yung water/bakal na fins nya, nagooverheat ka pa din. yun pala hindi nakakadaan yung coolant/water.
6) head gasket --ayan tinamad na ako, so pag the 5 steps do not seem to work, paconsult mo na sa trusted shops.

HTH.

author=deathscythell link=topic=40695.msg927408#msg927408 date=1414994054
Maraming salamat mga sirs. Lahat nung mga suggestion nyo chneck namin - ok nman. Ni-trace din namin ung mga dinadaanan ng tubig baka may leak pero wala naman. Before kami dumiretso sa head gasket (kasi mahal daw kapag kinalas un) chneck muna nmin water pump and ayun, water pump daw yung sira. Nung ni-replace nmin nag-ok na. Dagdag kaalaman.

Thank you ulit mga sirs.

[chronicle]

*Ninja

Note lang. Yung belt kelangan tama ang pagkabalik / higpit kung mag diy ka.

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[ninjababez]

found this pricing too ..

sana di malayo sa 2015 price ..


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author=jeffman link=topic=41830.msg939375#msg939375 date=1432361702
Aisin Clutch Disc + Cover
1NZ 1.5L = 2,600 pair
2NZ 1.3L = 2,500 pair

Aisin Water Pump
1NZ 1.5L = 900 each
2NZ 1.3L = 900 each

KYB Gas Shocks
Robin Front = 2,500 each
Robin Rear = 1,400 each
Batman Front R =2,950 each
Batman Front L = 2,950 each
Batman Rear = 1,500 each

MKK Brake Pads
Robin Front = 600 set
Robin Rear = 500 set
Batman Front = 700 set
Batman Rear = 500 set

Destination charges may apply