radiator cap - from 1.1 to .9 masama ba ito?

[aamd]

i recently bought a genuine radiator cap for my mitsubishi outlander. Na feel ko kasi baka worn-out na yung rubber nito.

Kaso, ang nabili ko is .9.

Question, Makakasama ba sa makina kung .9 lang ginamit ko instead of 1.1?

Please enlighten me.

Thank you in advance.

[1D4LV]

dapat made to fit. kung .9 instead of 1.1, it may leak out, dahil maliit yung butas ng diameter.

[yapoy86]

mahirap po kasi yung "feeling" nyo lang sira na yan... dapat po sure kayo kung sira nga like for example kung may mga leaks na... AFAIK yung 0.9 to 1.1 eh pressure indication yan in kg/cm3 better to stick to what is original... sa lahat ata ng naging sasakyan namin eh hindi pa ako nagpapalit ng radiator cap.. matagal naman masira yan and pag nasira sure mag leak yan or mag overheat ka

[aamd]

nag-umpisa ito sa pagobserve ko sa tubig ng radiator. Nawawalan ako ng tubig sa radiator ng mga 300 to 500 ml every three days of usage.

With this, napansin ko na may puti-puti yung radiator cap. So, i assumed na baka nagleleak ito. Kaya napabili ako ng .9 that time sa banawe. 600 pesos ito.

Up to now, under observation ito.

Since naka-LPG ito, pinacheck ko sa Greenfuel yung LPG kit at as soon as may nakitang konting leak sa 2 plastic t-connectors nila ay agad agad pinalitan ng mas mataba na 2 metal t-connectors. These t-coonectors are connected from the radiator to the Vaporizer vis-a-vis.

May nakita ako sa isang thread dito na nakakasama daw from 1.1 to .9 pero kung .9 to 1.1 ay okey lag. Si NIKY yata nagsabi noon. not sure... i hope mabasa ni NIKY ito para malaman ko experience nya.


Regarding dun sa physical appearance ng .9 and 1.1 - parehong pareho ito.

[XTO]

considering same size but differs in pressure. kundi na pwede ipalit as long as hindi nag o-overheat ayos lang, wala ring leaks yan, maaga lang siya bubukas. di naman naglalayo ang 0.9 sa 1.1 bar tolerance. Federal Mogul is one to consider.

[RedHotBlood]

pero iba pa din yung recommended ng manufacturer na pressure rating di ba? Pag .9 to 1.1 mas matagal ang palitan from radiator to reservoir, pag 1.1 to .9 mas mabilis? Eh bakit pa nila dinesign sa 1.1 kung pwede naman .9 kung walang magiging epekto di ba? Malamang meron.

[speedyfix]

use the pressure rating that is meant for the car. kung 1.1 then use that.

[nickel68]

Bro,
Yung 1.1 at 0.9 yan ang pressure design rating ng cooling system. At 1.1 the coolant will have a higher a boiling temperature compared to 0.9. Its a must to follow the original specs for your cooling system. Di nmn bad effect yan, pero yung system performance baba lang.
Note:
1. *1.1 pressure yung working temperature ng cooling system mo ay mataas, so this will equate to high performance.
2. * atmospheric pressure (walang radiator cap) yung boiling point is 100 C and for 1.1 the equivalent will be around 120 C or more (from thermodynamics).

[v6dreamer]

Mitsubishi Outlander radiator cap spec's.
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP -- 16 lbs. Maximum%XA0Pressure. Fits To 31 mm ID, 10 mm Deep Neck.
Buy the original one. Its a small investment with lot's of return. Your choice....

[nickel68]

Mga Bro.
In my opinion about this radiator cap sizes/configurations and pressure rating. Share ko lang my knowledge becoz im into 15 years in the manufacture/design of radiators, sa RADPHIL, SALAMA Rad in KSA and now in SERCK-UAE, makikita nio sa market ibang size ng cap say:
A) Nippon Denso Rad Cap = 1.1 kg/cm2 (ginagamit ito sa mga Plastic Tank Radiators, OEM)
B) Common Rad Cap = 1.1 kg/cm2 (gamit ng mga Brass Tank Radiators)
**A and B will have same performance. You may ask why ND designed new cap, its only a market strategy that they will only have this kind of cap.

Going to cap rating pressure 1.1, 0.9 and 0.5 kg/cm2, i can share some thermodynamics properties.
1.) 1.1 = boiling point is 121-123 C
2.) 0.9 = boiling point is 116-118 C
3.) 0.5 = boiling point is 110-112 C
Note:
In making a design for radiator we usually assumed in atmospheric condition, so 100 C as max. temp. of the cooling water, then droping it by 5 to 7 C. Sa Pinas we set the ambient air *35C pero dito sa Middle East we set our design Air Temp. at 50C. This will equate to more heat transfer surface area.
Causes ng Overheating Radiator side :
1. Cooling Tubes are plugged with dirts.
2. Cooling Fins are plugged with airborne dirts and damaged fins.
3. Common case, we always look for increasing the number of rows for better cooling, but the electric cooling fan will suffer due to increase in resistance, yung volume of air will not be sufficient. Note on air flow direction: from Front Grille- condenser and then the radiator - Cooling Fan. Upgrading your Rad from 1R to 2R you should consider upgrading your cooling fan (Condenser Side).