high temperature..

[jaypee10]

AFAIK mas mababa ang heat transfer ng aluminum than brass so meaning mas okay pag hindi aluminum. Mas magaan lang kasi ang aluminum radiator sa pagkakaalam ko.. So if I were you ill get a brand new evercool radiator. Locally made siya pero matibay at mura. Marami nito sa banawe. 5 years na yung evercool ko sa trooper ko.

thanks bro ill get a new 2rows radiator replacement mukang maganda naman at normal na normal na ang aking temperature kahit anong hataw.tapos biglang trapik,,normal na temperature ko...

[EVO-V]

siguro naman sa panahon ngayon ramdam na natin ang init ng panahon,,at ramdam narin natin ang init ng makina ng mga tsikot natin..

ihave a 96 honda civic vti..medyo may katandaan na siya ,,kaya siguro initin na..ang normal temp sa guage ko ay hanggang sa gitna lang talaga,,pero ngayon nag 3/4 na ang temp ko kaya napipilitan akong bumaba pa ng sasakyan para buhusan ng tubig ang radiator,,hustle diba...

hindi naman nagbabawas ng tubig sa radiator ko at sa reservor normal naman sila pareho..ang orig radiator nito ay 1row lang..kaya ang sabi nila palitan ko raw ng 2rows.para maka yanan ang init ng panahon ng makina...

ito na senario...

1, bibili ako ng surplus radiator with exhaust fan orig .ikakabit nalang..pero mukang alangan ako..kasi nakikita ko na mukang barado nadin sa dumi at medyo may kalawang nadin ung mga surplus na pinapakita nila..sa halagang 4.5k

Don't bother with this. Surplus radiators aren't vetted for wear and tear. You get no warranty other than a promise they'll repair it if it does breakdown.

2. bibili ako ng recondition radiator 2rows sa halagang 4,5k tanso na ung ibabaw ilalim radiator only...

Again same as above. This is band aid disinformation an mediocre industry is trying to push.

3. bibili ako ng radiator 2rows ntaiwan made sa halagang 2.9k plastic ung ibabaw ,ilalim brandnew..radiator only

These replacement units, as long as they meet OEM specs, are acceptable. Durability is suspect depending on manufacturer.

4. bibili ako ng radiator aluminum type 2rows brandnew..5k radiator only

Doesn't matter how many rows, there are 1 row radiators that out perform 3-4 row units. The aluminum tank make for little difference in actual performance but may add a layer of reliability vs plastic tank designs.

i need your opinion to decide to buy of wich item.sana matulungan nyo po ako...

If your system is sealed and you use the correct coolant mixtures, you shouldn't need to annually clean your radiator. The stock long life coolants go as far as 100,000 KM in between changes.

[EVO-V]

AFAIK mas mababa ang heat transfer ng aluminum than brass so meaning mas okay pag hindi aluminum. Mas magaan lang kasi ang aluminum radiator sa pagkakaalam ko.. So if I were you ill get a brand new evercool radiator. Locally made siya pero matibay at mura. Marami nito sa banawe. 5 years na yung evercool ko sa trooper ko.

Contemporary aluminum radiators handily equal that of conventional copper/brass radiators because of the homogenous material between the tube and fins where heat transfer occurs.

Though Aluminum has a lower thermal conductivity than copper, brass has a lower thermal conductivity than aluminum. Then there's the issue of solder, which also has a lower thermal conductivity than aluminum. This, on a metallurgical standpoint gives aluminum superiority over conventional copper-brass implementations.

However, Aluminum's bottlenecks come in, if and when heat dissipation demands are increased, as in the case of tuning, and when air flow becomes a constraint (drifting or uphill climbs).

Typical aluminum radiators have much thicker fins than its copper counterparts largely due to the manufacturing process and tensile strength.

What this means in turn, is that Alu radiators are size limited, i.e. the only way to increase performance is to increase the frontal area and thickness of the radiator. At this stage, aluminum radiators grow larger and will need to be filled with more coolant, and thus lose their weigh advantage to high performance copper-brass designs.

Thicker fins means you cannot increase fin density a lot because you will block airflow instead of using it to dissipate heat.

Copper-brass radiators, if designed astutely, begin to shine in this area as copper fins can be as thinner by as much as 72% thinner than aluminum fins. This provides high performance radiators with more usable surface area in the same or more compact package.

[dr. d]

this metallurgical knowledge is all very nice.. but how do we transform all these, into a choice of what radiator to put in our 1996 honda civic vti ?

[EVO-V]

this metallurgical knowledge is all very nice.. but how do we transform all these, into a choice of what radiator to put in our 1996 honda civic vti ?

Why thank you, dr. d.

If he intends to keep his vehicle until it no longer runs he's better off with a copper-brass radiator. If its simply about getting it going the aftermarket aluminum choices do a good enough job.

Unless his engine is no longer stock and he runs his vehicle competitively under harsh conditions, your run of the mill radiators would do.

[jaypee10]

mga sir update ko lang itong tread ko..

simula nung pinalitan ko ng brandnew radiator taiwan made..nag ok naman ung temp ko,,minsan bumababa pa nga ngayon ung temp level ko kapag malamig ung panahon...


ito lang po napansin ko..since hindi po ako muna naglagay ng coolant for observation..
kahapon sinilip ko ung radiator ko,,may nakita akong parang mga sementong maliliit na buo buo siya,ngayon nangangamba akong baka after a month eh tuluyan ng bumara ito sa bagong radiator ko..

binuksan ko ung radiator cap un nakita ko na nakabara sila sa mga butas..kumuha ako ng twiser at sinubukan kong kuhanin ..ung isa sa mga piraso nakuha ko naman siya singlaki ng butil ng mais (CORN) pero kapag piniga mo ng daliri mo ay malambot naman at nadudurog kaagad,,
medyo madami akong nakikita na nasa ibabaw,,,

na tatakot lang ako na baka after weeks or month eh barado na ung radiator ko..hindi naman yata ito nabubuksan or nalilinis dahil plastic seal ito..

may ibang ways po ba para matanggal ung mga parang buo buong parang semento sa radiator ko sayang naman kasi kung mababarahan kaagad eh kabagobago pa naman,,may nabibiling chemical po ba para matunaw ung mga parang cement na un..

[dr. d]

Why thank you, dr. d.

If he intends to keep his vehicle until it no longer runs he's better off with a copper-brass radiator. If its simply about getting it going the aftermarket aluminum choices do a good enough job.

Unless his engine is no longer stock and he runs his vehicle competitively under harsh conditions, your run of the mill radiators would do.

hey, great! thanks.
and it appears, the threadstarter got the brand new (aluminum) radiator..

[EVO-V]

hey, great! thanks.
and it appears, the threadstarter got the brand new (aluminum) radiator..

You are most welcome.

mga sir update ko lang itong tread ko..

simula nung pinalitan ko ng brandnew radiator taiwan made..nag ok naman ung temp ko,,minsan bumababa pa nga ngayon ung temp level ko kapag malamig ung panahon...


ito lang po napansin ko..since hindi po ako muna naglagay ng coolant for observation..
kahapon sinilip ko ung radiator ko,,may nakita akong parang mga sementong maliliit na buo buo siya,ngayon nangangamba akong baka after a month eh tuluyan ng bumara ito sa bagong radiator ko..

binuksan ko ung radiator cap un nakita ko na nakabara sila sa mga butas..kumuha ako ng twiser at sinubukan kong kuhanin ..ung isa sa mga piraso nakuha ko naman siya singlaki ng butil ng mais (CORN) pero kapag piniga mo ng daliri mo ay malambot naman at nadudurog kaagad,,
medyo madami akong nakikita na nasa ibabaw,,,

na tatakot lang ako na baka after weeks or month eh barado na ung radiator ko..hindi naman yata ito nabubuksan or nalilinis dahil plastic seal ito..

may ibang ways po ba para matanggal ung mga parang buo buong parang semento sa radiator ko sayang naman kasi kung mababarahan kaagad eh kabagobago pa naman,,may nabibiling chemical po ba para matunaw ung mga parang cement na un..

Dude, it is apparent that your mechanic did not initiate a proper flushing procedure of your system prior to installing your new radiator.

Those sediments are residue from dried coolant, corrosion, and possibly other dissolved solids from the water.

You need to run the engine and filter those out before you install your new radiator. A stainless screen mesh on the inlet pipe of your radiator should filter this handily. Run your engine from 15-30 minutes and check on how much gunk you've managed to strain. Repeat until clear.

I'd be more worried about the smaller debris that fits through the tubes rather than the large ones you can see. Those build up like plaque.

If there's more of those inside your engine, it WILL clog your radiator and it WILL destroy it.

[EVO-V]

Just to add on.

The brass tank replacement on aluminum cores, is just asking for trouble.

The incredible amount of misplaced trust people put on these shenanigans is dauntingly unnerving.

Galvanic corrosion will deposit gunk along your cooling loop's linings. This in turn will make it less efficient and prone to breakdowns.

The whole assertion of "matagal na namin ginagawa ito wala namang problema" is anecdotal at best. The very fact that people do not report adequately or understand how their engines are degrading, let alone the informality of this sector is really where the problem lies.

[jick.cejoco]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmNAtPGLxyk]Temperature - YouTube[/ame]