civic thermostat switch

**ahlecks** · July 28th, 2012 10:40 AM

pansin ko po kc medyo late o pag talagang mainit n mainit n bago mag engage rad aux fan ko although d nmn nag ooverheat engine ko, normal lng b un? should i change my thermostat switch? what spec should i buy and for how much? 96civic vti po oto ko.TIA

**tip_tipid** · July 30th, 2012 10:50 PM

you'll have to find out if the "thermostat" is not stucked or late in opening.
If the return hose to the top of the radiator remains cold or warm, not getting hot as the engine temperature
gauge reading increases past the normal temp, then most probably the Thermostat is stucked.
Check this images out so you have an idea https://www.google.com/search?q=car+...w=1255&bih=742

**ahlecks** · July 31st, 2012 12:35 AM

Originally Posted by tip_tipid

you'll have to find out if the "thermostat" is not stucked or late in opening.
If the return hose to the top of the radiator remains cold or warm, not getting hot as the engine temperature
gauge reading increases past the normal temp, then most probably the Thermostat is stucked.
Check this images out so you have an idea https://www.google.com/search?q=car+...w=1255&bih=742

i was talking about the thermostat switch that turns the radiator fan on automatically sir and not the thermostat valve that opens and closes to let coolant pass.

**kinyo** · July 31st, 2012 01:50 AM

Honda calls it Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) switch. The service manual have a simple procedure to test the ECT switch and rated to close switch at 91-95C.

Note that the radiator fan can also be turned on by Engine or Powertrain Control Module (ECM or PCM, depending on car model).

**raine** · July 31st, 2012 01:09 PM

experience ko na defective ang ECT meron CEL at ang idle above 1000rpm kahit mainit na ang makina, and pag pinatay mo ang makina then try mo start again hirap mag start,

**tip_tipid** · August 5th, 2012 02:39 AM

take note that there two different type of ECT installed. They are of different color for ease of identification, and have different cut-in temperature rating. make sure you have the correct cut-in temperature rating.
But from my experience, the culprit is normally the thermostat. If it is stucked up or delayed in opening, the radiator fan will
also turn on and operate at higher than normal temperature. It easier to replace the ECT and it also cost about 50% less than the thermostat.