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  1. Join Date
    Jul 2018
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    22
    #1
    Good morning mga boss. may nakuha kaming 94 Lancer GLI, carb'ed na, and manual na din steering. may ilang buwan din na hindi nagamit yung itlog bago namin nakuha. Bale ang problema ay kapag buhay yung AC, lumalamig naman as in, kaya lang yung AC belt nya squeals. At first i thought maluwag lang lang yung belt kaya dinagadagan ko tension, kaya lang dun ko na napansin na wala na syang hatak, di na ako makapag-pasok ng 3rd gear kasi sobrang bagal ng takbo kahit apakan ang gas, kaya naka-segunda na lang ako. Niluwagan ko nang konti ulit yung tensioner para lang gumaan ang load sa makina.

    dinala ko na sa mekaniko at nakita na maitim yung mga spark plugs (powdery) kaya pinabili ako ng platinum. pinalitan din ng mas malapad na belt kasi makitid daw yung dati kaya squealing. nung ginamit ko kinabukasan, ganun na naman, sobrang gapang. buti naigapang ko pa pauwi. what i did was remove the spark plugs and saw the tips all powdery black na naman, so nilinis ko, tapos inalis ko muna yung AC belt completely.

    ayun, tumakbo naman ng medyo ayos, ni-road test ko for about 10kms balikan, definitely better than when the belt was installed. yun nga lang walang AC. with no AC compressor loaded sa engine, bale napansin ko parang nabubulunan or nasisinok yung takbo, pakadyot-kadyot intermittently.

    could this be a problem on engine timing mainly, o may iba pa akong malaking prob? Sunday pa kasi dating ng mekaniko kaya medyo uneasy na ako and to anticipate na rin kung ano yung possible pang dapat kong tingnan. salamat!

  2. Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    #2
    i'd have engine tuning done to spec, first.
    not because i think the problem lies therein, but so's we can safely say, "it's not the engine".

    because you said the car ran better without the AC belt, i think your compressor is defective. it's causing too much drag. have the aircon guys have a look.

    good luck.
    Last edited by dr. d; May 4th, 2019 at 10:33 AM.

  3. Join Date
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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by dr. d View Post
    i'd have engine tuning done to spec, first.
    not because i think the problem lies therein, but so's we can safely say, "it's not the engine".

    because you said the car ran better without the AC belt, i think your compressor is defective. it's causing too much drag. have the aircon guys have a look.

    good luck.
    Agree with Dr d, check compressor 1st, then the engine ...you said "carb'ed"... Is it original?

    I replaced only my 95 Sentra's advancer and it messed up my timing... Won't shift to 3rd gear, won't run past 40kph...Had the timing adjusted, now running like new (purrs like a cat)

  4. Join Date
    Jul 2018
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    #4
    thanks sa replies! bale ganito:

    1) the compressor turns unimpeded. wala akong napansing bumabatangal sa pulley nya when i turned it (without the belt).

    2) apparently the GLI trim uses EFI, but this one has carb na. previous owner replaced it, i believe, as the tip(?) of the old air intake is still mounted near the right fender.

    nasa talyer na yung itlog, kaya lang next sunday pa dating ni kuyang mekaniko. been reading a lot on what could have caused spark plug fouling, baka too rich ang mixture due to a clogged air filter din. we'll see next week, hopefully.

  5. Join Date
    Jul 2018
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    22
    #5
    magandang araw ulit mga katsikot. base sa findings ng bagong mechanic, the platinum plugs werent a fit to these old engines, which matches my google-fu about spark plug heat ranges and operating temperatures, and how old distributor systems cannot fully utilize the benefits of platinum plugs. so ayun, a set of copper BKR6ES was installed, but according to specs ng 4g15 per Mitsubishi, it should be around NGK's heat rating of 5. kaya pala fouled lagi dati yung spark plugs. timing was ok, but the valves had to be adjusted na rin.

    with the engine running better, medyo luminaw yung ibang problema: yung kadyot-kadyot apparently is from the clutch system, hindi pa lang identified kung worn-out disc that slips or a failing pressure plate. the symptoms are most apparent when running at low speeds and high gear. pag-apak konti sa clutch nawawala, so medyo tukoy kung saang part ang problema.

    anyway, any users ng Mikuni carb dito? wala kasi akong makitang resource sa internet, gusto ko sana pag-aralan how to adjust these to better fine tune particularly yung jet sizes nya. salamat!

  6. Join Date
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    #6
    thanks for updating this thread ..
    subscribing

  7. Join Date
    Jul 2018
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    #7
    ay em bak. to better understand the itlog's problem, ako na mismo ang lumusong sa engine bay, sort of. gotta learn something out of this anyway.

    apparently, ang lakas ng konsumo. 6-7km/Liter. since our friendly mechanic is only available during Mondays, naglakas-loob na akong kalasin ang carb. oh god the gasket between the carb and the intake manifold had turned to something like wet paper, kaya nabuntis na at nabarahan yung ibang channels. had to buy a bellamoid gasket and cut it to size. after cleaning the carb and sparying the ports and other orifice, i instantly felt the improvement in response albeit a little. if the first mechanic did check thoroughly instead of just changing the spark plugs and go "heeeng! heeeeeng! o ayan ayos na", he should've seen one of the problems.

    next came the spark plugs, the BKR6Es installed were again carbon fouled (but the engine runs). it could be too much fuel, or oil is leaking somewhere. i checked the dipstick, no talsik, meaning the PCV must be working, and that if the pistons are badly worn then it must be blowby affecting the ignition. i installed a catch can between the PCV and the intake manifold, looks clean as there is no oil so far, so it being blowby tingin ko ay medyo malabo. medyo lang.

    while i was at it, inaral ko na din yung mga vacuum connections to the carb, which was all over the place. tested plugging the vacuum advancer to manifold vacuum, but the engine feels it likes ported vacuum. checked the EGR valve, works. i'm trying to revive some of the lines that the previous mechanics removed like the charcoal canister (purge valve missing, canister not connected to carb), and maybe the connection to the air intake diaphragm. the choke mechanism is gone, so starting the engine compels me to pump the pedal a few times and opening the throttle a bit before turning the ignition switch. bakit ba kasi condemn nang condemn ng mga connection ang mga mekaniko.

    as for the AC, the 1st mechanic's recommendation of using a wider belt was stupid, and was the reason why it squealed. being wider, the belt couldnt properly grip the compressor, hence a thinner V-belt was necessary to hug the channels. that and proper tension.

    still getting fouled, but not as bad as before that it misfires. maybe it's the valve seals causing it, or carb jets too big. havent disassembled the carb yet, and the Welch plugs are still intact. malakas kutob ko valve seals eh. we'll see after ko matingnan yung values ng jets used.

    after these small tweaks, there is marked improvement in the performance. maganda hatak, pero if i could only address the problem of fouling, im sure mas gaganda pa hatak and magiging efficient din soon.

    walang windshield washer pump and tank. i ordered a replacement, pero langya, di ko makita yung connector for the washer pump. anybody have pics ng lancers nila? im having trouble fishing out the connector eh.

    the rad fan turns on agad, im planning to restore its original operation. wala na yung connector din for the thermoswitch. anak ng tipaklong, condemn kasi ng condemn.

    over all, it was a good learning experience.

  8. Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    4,725
    #8
    Na change mo na ba yung ignition system mo? Fouling might be caused by bad timing or insufficient power sa sparkplugs kaya ma carbon.. also check mo yung vacuum sa timing advance

  9. Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    54,621
    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by MugshotXL5 View Post
    ay em bak. to better understand the itlog's problem, ako na mismo ang lumusong sa engine bay, sort of. gotta learn something out of this anyway.

    apparently, ang lakas ng konsumo. 6-7km/Liter. since our friendly mechanic is only available during Mondays, naglakas-loob na akong kalasin ang carb. oh god the gasket between the carb and the intake manifold had turned to something like wet paper, kaya nabuntis na at nabarahan yung ibang channels. had to buy a bellamoid gasket and cut it to size. after cleaning the carb and sparying the ports and other orifice, i instantly felt the improvement in response albeit a little. if the first mechanic did check thoroughly instead of just changing the spark plugs and go "heeeng! heeeeeng! o ayan ayos na", he should've seen one of the problems.

    next came the spark plugs, the BKR6Es installed were again carbon fouled (but the engine runs). it could be too much fuel, or oil is leaking somewhere. i checked the dipstick, no talsik, meaning the PCV must be working, and that if the pistons are badly worn then it must be blowby affecting the ignition. i installed a catch can between the PCV and the intake manifold, looks clean as there is no oil so far, so it being blowby tingin ko ay medyo malabo. medyo lang.

    while i was at it, inaral ko na din yung mga vacuum connections to the carb, which was all over the place. tested plugging the vacuum advancer to manifold vacuum, but the engine feels it likes ported vacuum. checked the EGR valve, works. i'm trying to revive some of the lines that the previous mechanics removed like the charcoal canister (purge valve missing, canister not connected to carb), and maybe the connection to the air intake diaphragm. the choke mechanism is gone, so starting the engine compels me to pump the pedal a few times and opening the throttle a bit before turning the ignition switch. bakit ba kasi condemn nang condemn ng mga connection ang mga mekaniko.

    as for the AC, the 1st mechanic's recommendation of using a wider belt was stupid, and was the reason why it squealed. being wider, the belt couldnt properly grip the compressor, hence a thinner V-belt was necessary to hug the channels. that and proper tension.

    still getting fouled, but not as bad as before that it misfires. maybe it's the valve seals causing it, or carb jets too big. havent disassembled the carb yet, and the Welch plugs are still intact. malakas kutob ko valve seals eh. we'll see after ko matingnan yung values ng jets used.

    after these small tweaks, there is marked improvement in the performance. maganda hatak, pero if i could only address the problem of fouling, im sure mas gaganda pa hatak and magiging efficient din soon.

    walang windshield washer pump and tank. i ordered a replacement, pero langya, di ko makita yung connector for the washer pump. anybody have pics ng lancers nila? im having trouble fishing out the connector eh.

    the rad fan turns on agad, im planning to restore its original operation. wala na yung connector din for the thermoswitch. anak ng tipaklong, condemn kasi ng condemn.

    over all, it was a good learning experience.
    ...way to go!

  10. Join Date
    Jul 2018
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    22
    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by yapoy86 View Post
    Na change mo na ba yung ignition system mo? Fouling might be caused by bad timing or insufficient power sa sparkplugs kaya ma carbon.. also check mo yung vacuum sa timing advance
    di pa napapalitan sir. hopefully pag nagpalit ako n timing belt, baka kako nag-skip na yung ngipin kaya akala nung dating mekaniko eh tama ang timing.

    nasa 18Hg yung vacuum based dun sa nabili kong gauge sa "Lazada Racing", and the advancer pulls when vacuum is applied. read up a lot on vacuum advance and manifold vs. ported in the past months as well. same with EGR and other emissions-related connections.

    as for timing, since wala akong timing light, gumamit ulit ako ng lakas ng loob (LOL) at tenga+feel while blipping the throttle to see how the engine would respond. im shooting for the best response, nakakaabot naman ng <6K rpm, pero parang wala pa din sa habol ko since it doesnt respond quick enough when throttle is blipped. i adjusted na din the accelerator pump kasi parang may spots na labis ang gas at kulang ang hangin.

    these past two days ive been reading up on drive2.ru since eto lang yung site na maraming articles regarding the Mikuni carb. since the 4G15 uses a mechanical fuel pump, may ire-reroute pa ako sa fuel connection kasi may extra fuel ports yung Mikuni eh. komplikado yung carb, but in a good way. next target ko tingnan yung BCDD, any tips?



    setting this engine up hammered home the fact na kapag may oto, dapat matutunan mo kung papano nago-operate yung mga components at hindi basta gamit lang nang gamit.

  11. Join Date
    Jul 2018
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    22
    #11
    update: rerouted the vacuum lines, found a link Возврат Mikuni на 4G91 — помогите с обвязкой. — Сообщество <<Японские Карбюраторы>> на DRIVE2 which best suits the carb and appurtenances installed on mine, with the exception of the purge valve and ECU monitor (both gone). adjusted the Mixture screw to the leanest possible.

    Eggy ran fine, until it warmed up: now i have a case of high idle. or technically, the idle hangs at around 2K RPM. the last thing i fiddled with AFAIR was the BCDD on the carb. or was it called the altitude correction device? not sure kung ano mismo tawag on this Mikuni unit. been reading up a lot on how this little gizmo works on the carb, and im close to certainty that it's the BCDD that's causing me problems this time. it doesnt look like it is threaded, but that it changes its position and consequently its sensitivity relative to its orientation .

    sa mga may experience na, could the hanging idle be due to the leaner idle mixture? im wary that simply changing the position of the BCDD screw will not revert the idle to how it was before. mamayang gabi or bukas ko pa ng umaga masisipat ulit yung makina.

  12. Join Date
    Jul 2018
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    22
    #12
    looks like it was the BCDD. cleaned it and fixed the stuck brass pin (valve?) inside. i felt the engine liked having its advancer connected to full manifold vacuum for full advance. idles well, but i feel there is some skipping on the ignition. checked the plugs, all looked the same, medyo sooty, pointing to a rich mixture if not leaky valve seals or worn rings. found out pinutulan lang yung old springs to achieve that lowered stance (and maybe at the expense of repeated damage to suspension), so i decided to change the springs with new ones. grabe ang taas ng wheel gap, pero oks na din since mababalik na yung proper suspension geometry and hopefully better steering.

  13. Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by MugshotXL5 View Post
    looks like it was the BCDD. cleaned it and fixed the stuck brass pin (valve?) inside. i felt the engine liked having its advancer connected to full manifold vacuum for full advance. idles well, but i feel there is some skipping on the ignition. checked the plugs, all looked the same, medyo sooty, pointing to a rich mixture if not leaky valve seals or worn rings. found out pinutulan lang yung old springs to achieve that lowered stance (and maybe at the expense of repeated damage to suspension), so i decided to change the springs with new ones. grabe ang taas ng wheel gap, pero oks na din since mababalik na yung proper suspension geometry and hopefully better steering.
    good for you!
    it is difficult to bring it back to factory spec, especially if the previous owner did un-thinkable things to it.
    but the marked improvement in handling is... magical.
    Last edited by dr. d; October 25th, 2019 at 12:45 PM.

  14. Join Date
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by dr. d View Post
    good for you!
    it is difficult to bring it back to factory spec, especially if the previous owner did un-thinkable things to it.
    but the marked improvement in handling is... magical.
    you are right sir, steers better now. problema ko na lang the engine dies when pressing the clutch, when cruising or shifting.

  15. Join Date
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by MugshotXL5 View Post
    ...the engine dies when pressing the clutch, when cruising or shifting.
    changed plugs, turns out i was running too much vacuum advance at idle, retarded a bit and RPM increased. starts easier now, wala na yung feeling na the engine is about to seize. i can hit higher RPMs at idle, unlike before na pahirapan pa to hit 5K rpm with no AC load.

    yun nga lang, doesnt sound like detonation pero andun yung lumalagitik. valve lashes?

  16. Join Date
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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by MugshotXL5 View Post
    changed plugs, turns out i was running too much vacuum advance at idle, retarded a bit and RPM increased. starts easier now, wala na yung feeling na the engine is about to seize. i can hit higher RPMs at idle, unlike before na pahirapan pa to hit 5K rpm with no AC load.

    yun nga lang, doesnt sound like detonation pero andun yung lumalagitik. valve lashes?
    "click click click" ?
    sounds like valve sounds, po.
    get a hold of the factory spec valve clearances, and adjust yours, po. in some cars, that info is pasted somewhere in the engine bay.
    hearing that sound does not mean the valve clearance is too large.
    in some cars, that sound is normal.

  17. Join Date
    Dec 2017
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    #17
    Great adventure you have there! Congratulations on the improvements to your car.

    If I may ask, why is it called an egg? I think the "pizza pie" came from the design of the rear lights.

  18. Join Date
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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Archerfish View Post
    Great adventure you have there! Congratulations on the improvements to your car.

    If I may ask, why is it called an egg? I think the "pizza pie" came from the design of the rear lights.
    Itlog because of the shape of the turn signal lights....

  19. Join Date
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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by yapoy86 View Post
    Itlog because of the shape of the turn signal lights....
    I just checked and the turn signal lights looked like one.
    [emoji3]

  20. Join Date
    Jul 2018
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    #20
    Quote Originally Posted by dr. d View Post
    "click click click" ?
    sounds like valve sounds, po.
    get a hold of the factory spec valve clearances, and adjust yours, po. in some cars, that info is pasted somewhere in the engine bay.
    hearing that sound does not mean the valve clearance is too large.
    in some cars, that sound is normal.
    havent fiddled with the rockers yet. will try to take off the valve cover sometime next month basta may oras to adjust the clearances.

    some observations pa:

    1) Rekta rad fans rob energy when starting the car. Why mechanics do it, i do not understand one bit. Also, some of the electrical systems such as the wipers, room and trunk lights, radio, horns - among others - all work independently and do not get power from the main supply: removing the fuses for these components does nothing. "Mechanics" splicing here, there, everywhere.

    2) its 4G15 engine specifies a 5degree initial advance, advancer connected to ported vacuum. Needless to say, acceleration is lethargic, and was fouling plugs left and right, and parang may nagsusuntukan sa loob. Adjusted to 10degrees more or less using an inclinometer (no timing light available), and feels it still wants more initial and total advance. works better so far.

    3) changed all the coil springs; may putol yung front dati, and yung rear naman ay suko na. back to stock ride height. yay! i also adjusted the camber/caster of the rear wheels, pero malamang di ito exact and on spec, tinantya ko lang yung alignment.

    4) I still have problems with plugs getting fouled. In the last half-assed carb tear down i did, i saw the idle fuel cut-off solenoid, saddle, and mixture control solenoid had worn o-rings. Of the three, yung MCS yung di ko napalitan kasi wala akong available na kasukat. Tsaka Sunday, sarado mga auto supply.

    hay buhay.

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Lancer GLI itlog gapang kapag nakakabit ang AC belt