Tubig sa reservoir kumukulo...help! temp gauge ok pa rin...

[matrixx]

I have got a honda 97 vti. Napansin ko lang lately na after a long drive, kumukulo yung tubig sa water reservoir esp at day time at tirik araw. Though yung temp ko kalahati parin just like before.

This does not happen pag gabi.

I noticed that after nag cooldown na, babalik tubig sa radiator at halos wala na laman yung reservoir, what could be wrong here? Seems like I am loosing water along the way.

I checked my fan mukhang ok naman, nag au automatic
Malamig pa rin naman AC ko

- Could it be baradong radiator? (at least yun ang sabi ng mekanik). how do I know na barado nga radiator?
- Or sirang water pump? how do I know na water pump sira?

Pansin ko rin na madaling tumaas sa half ang temp ko,,like siguro after 10 mins....ganun ba talaga?

thanks mga peeps..

Appreciate your feedback.

[1D4LV]

most probably baradong radiator.

the easiest and cheapest way of resolving that (try this first), is pabugahan mo ng high pressure washer yung labas ng radiator. just be careful na hwag mabasa yung mga electrical and sensors inside. nangyari na kasi sa akin yan, and just by doing that, nawala yung problem.

ngayon kung nagawa mo na, at ganun pa din.... baka kailangan na ng radiator cleaning.... nasa loob na kasi yung bara....

kung water pump ang nasira sa iyo, malamang nag overheat ka na.... hindi na kasi umiikot yung tubig sa loob ng makina to the radiator and vice-versa.

hth.

[jaymd]

since 1997 di na nasisira radiator mo?

[sirkosero]

since 1997 di na nasisira radiator mo?

nakakagulat ba sir? We also have a 1997 civic vti with a virgin radiator.

actually, yung engine is also technically a virgin. the only time binuksan was during valve tappets adjustment at speedyfix and timing belt replacement. car is used everyday including weekends and holidays

[lowslowbenz]

Surprise, surprise ... We have a 1988 W124 300E sa province. Engine and transmission still factory stock. Alaga lang sa PMS.

[jaymd]

kung sabagay yun 1996 vti ko noon la naging problema sa rad until i sold it 4 years ago. yun 93 esi namin yun rad lasted 5 years. baka barado na radiator mo. better pa check mo sa speedyfix kung doo ka na nagpapagawa dati.

[sirkosero]

kung sabagay yun 1996 vti ko noon la naging problema sa rad until i sold it 4 years ago. yun 93 esi namin yun rad lasted 5 years. baka barado na radiator mo. better pa check mo sa speedyfix kung doo ka na nagpapagawa dati.

hehe bro, di ako ang TS.

i just pointed that its not surprising to see old cars in that didnt require some sort of dismantling.

OT na tayo.

BTT: TS, i suggest pacheck mo maigi cooling system mo. if any of the fans (radiator or condenser) fans are not up to spec, in terms of rpm, kukulo talaga tubig sa reserve.

[lowslowbenz]

I have got a honda 97 vti. Napansin ko lang lately na after a long drive, kumukulo yung tubig sa water reservoir esp at day time at tirik araw. Though yung temp ko kalahati parin just like before.

This does not happen pag gabi.

I noticed that after nag cooldown na, babalik tubig sa radiator at halos wala na laman yung reservoir, what could be wrong here? Seems like I am loosing water along the way.

I checked my fan mukhang ok naman, nag au automatic
Malamig pa rin naman AC ko

- Could it be baradong radiator? (at least yun ang sabi ng mekanik). how do I know na barado nga radiator?
- Or sirang water pump? how do I know na water pump sira?

Pansin ko rin na madaling tumaas sa half ang temp ko,,like siguro after 10 mins....ganun ba talaga?

thanks mga peeps..

Appreciate your feedback.

I have a feeling that you have a blown cylinder head gasket. Combustion pressure is "leaking" into your water jackets. Hence the rapid rise of engine temperature. If left unrepaired, the leak will advance to your oil galleries, which will result in the "langis at tubig naghalo" scenario.

Don't wait for your engine to boil over and sieze in the middle of the road. Have your cooling system pressure tested, this will prove if there is/are leaks.

[mark_t]

most probably baradong radiator.

the easiest and cheapest way of resolving that (try this first), is pabugahan mo ng high pressure washer yung labas ng radiator. just be careful na hwag mabasa yung mga electrical and sensors inside. nangyari na kasi sa akin yan, and just by doing that, nawala yung problem.

ngayon kung nagawa mo na, at ganun pa din.... baka kailangan na ng radiator cleaning.... nasa loob na kasi yung bara....

kung water pump ang nasira sa iyo, malamang nag overheat ka na.... hindi na kasi umiikot yung tubig sa loob ng makina to the radiator and vice-versa.

hth.

Hindi kaya pakuloin ng radiator ang coolant, ang trabaho niya ay palamigin ang coolant.
Hot spots will always be in the engine block where detonation occurs.

True, clearing the radiator fins of debris brings it back to specs.

To TS, You are using a coolant ( hindi tubig)? If not maybe corrosion is
causing hot spots in your water jackets.
Flushing your cooling system may solve this condition.

[1D4LV]

since 1997 di na nasisira radiator mo?

di naman siguro nakakagulat ito...
my 1996 Sentra still has his original radiators....
alaga lang sa flushing.

[jaymd]

plastic aluminum radiators kasi tsambahan talaga. yun esi namin 5 years yung vti 12 years na noon ok pa rad nya. yun outie ko 8 years tinagal ng rad. nag singaw na sa top plastic part pwede naman dw pa tanso pero nag install na lang ko bnew na koyorad for peace of mind for the next 5 years or so.

[lowslowbenz]

Plastic radiator header tanks are like fuses (when compared to electrical circuits). When the engine is overheating and internal pressures pass a certain limit, the plastic headers are designed to rupture. Thereby saving the cylinder head and other main engine components from severe and irrepairable damage. Mercedes Benz radiators are all plastic/aluminium since the 80's.

Converting it to brass (tanso) is a bad move.

[EVO-V]

Pressure relief in a radiator loops comes in two devices. First your cap, which raises internal pressure by 1 atmosphere. Second is the overflow.

Plastic radiator tanks ARE NOT designed to rupture.

Plastic radiator tanks wear out because of the thermal expansion experienced by both the header plates causes wear on the o-rings underneath. This joint is purely mechanical, unlike brass radiators which are fully welded with solder.

I personally have issues with people here whose commercial interests override commonsense and general metallurgy. Do NOT, and I repeat, DO NOT replace that plastic tank with a brass tank for your aluminum core. Brass Tank + Aluminum Core + Coolant = Galvanic Corrosion. That's not a maybe that's science.

Not to mention the ridiculous amounts of lead solder they would chuck into that to "Seal it".

The places that offer radiator overhaul are likewise suspect given they can actually do more harm by damaging your radiator.

A new radiator is always cheaper than an overhaul.

[dr. d]

i had experience like that. it seems, mahina ang isang aux fan, ngunit umi-ikot pa naman. at kung hindi pa sakin pinakita kung gaano talaga kalakas ang normal fan, ay hindi ko makikita ang pagkaka-iba.. ayun.. pinalitan. ok na.

[sotel]

mga sir kung laging nauubus Tubig sa reservoir ano po problema?

[mark_t]

mga sir kung laging nauubus Tubig sa reservoir ano po problema?

It depends..

First of all, what you have is a sealed type cooling system. So if there is a leak then, mauubos
ang coolant.

Since what you have is Tubig, Then your cooling system is not to specification.
It boils water, the design is not to boil water.
Or there may be a leak.

Now how do you do a simple failure analysis on this?

Use a coolant and inspect for leaks, follow the dyes.
Read a online manual if you can and observe your tail pipe if there is abnormal discharge, color etc.

[EVO-V]

mga sir kung laging nauubus Tubig sa reservoir ano po problema?

You have a leak.

Radiator systems are sealed systems for good reason. Air inside the loop makes for poor conductivity and they really don't need to be maintained.

If by the time your water only coolant evaporates -it already means that your cooling system is in trouble.

Your radiator is designed to keep your engine operating within 80-90C. Water boiling inside your cooling loop at practically 2 atmospheres means your engine is overheating. (the pressure cap elevates everything by 1 atm)

Having coolant only raises the boiling point of water but lowers its thermal conductivity.

If your engine has severe cavitation you will likely have leaks through it in which the coolant seeps through.

[lowslowbenz]

Pressure relief in a radiator loops comes in two devices. First your cap, which raises internal pressure by 1 atmosphere. Second is the overflow.

Plastic radiator tanks ARE NOT designed to rupture.

So, in your opinion, what's the purpose of plastic headers then?

[EVO-V]

So, in your opinion, what's the purpose of plastic headers then?

There are no plastic headers, you must be referring to the tanks.

Those plastic tanks are made of fiberglass reinforced polyethylene. They are for cost reduction. Purely cost reduction. All they need to do is outlast the car's warranty.

[dfopiso]

sabi ng mga nagre-repair ng radiators, dahil meron na raw kalawang, mas delikado raw gumamit ng coolant dahil magbabara pag nag peel yung kalawang. suggestion nila distilled water. tama ba sila?