prefabricated double flared steel brake lines

[miked]

Good day tsikoteers!

Malayo ako ngayon sa mga dealerships...tanong ko lang eh may binebenta ba ang mga dealerships na prefabricated (with hydraulic fittings and double flare/bubble flare) steel brake lines? specifically 3/16" diameter steel tubing.

salamat.

[t2erns]

palagay ko ay hindi readily available yan sa mga dealer, malamang by order basis lang yan. mas mabuti pa siguro magpagawa ka na lang.

[jick.cejoco]

palagay ko ay hindi readily available yan sa mga dealer, malamang by order basis lang yan. mas mabuti pa siguro magpagawa ka na lang.

Most of the time, the part of the rigid line that is exposed to the elements and have been soaked in brake fluid is the one that gets corroded. Usually at the ends where it connects to an actuator or the master cylinder. The whole line rarely gets corroded. Just repair the bad section with a DOT approved brake line. Be sure to rinse all spilled brake fluid on the fittings and lines every time you service the hydraulics


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[miked]

Most of the time, the part of the rigid line that is exposed to the elements and have been soaked in brake fluid is the one that gets corroded. Usually at the ends where it connects to an actuator or the master cylinder. The whole line rarely gets corroded. Just repair the bad section with a DOT approved brake line. Be sure to rinse all spilled brake fluid on the fittings and lines every time you service the hydraulics


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the truth is: i have a Ridgid model 345 with double flare taps....and out of approximately 20 trials i make 18 errors in double flared steel lines. LOL!....doing it on copper is straightforward. but then again i do not want to use copper lines.

i had to re-plumb my brake lines at the the point where it connects to the master cylinder. replaced it with 3/16 in lines.

after lots of procrastination, frustration, and also a lot of youtube videos, I still managed to fab 2 sets of double flared steel tubing.....the steel, most of the time, cracks at the flared section. or the outer lips do not flare flawlessly unlike copper. followed all instructions regarding double flaring: reaming the inside, chamfer the outside, etc.

[jick.cejoco]

the truth is: i have a Ridgid model 345 with double flare taps....and out of approximately 20 trials i make 18 errors in double flared steel lines. LOL!....doing it on copper is straightforward. but then again i do not want to use copper lines.

i had to re-plumb my brake lines at the the point where it connects to the master cylinder. replaced it with 3/16 in lines.

after lots of procrastination, frustration, and also a lot of youtube videos, I still managed to fab 2 sets of double flared steel tubing.....the steel, most of the time, cracks at the flared section. or the outer lips do not flare flawlessly unlike copper. followed all instructions regarding double flaring: reaming the inside, chamfer the outside, etc.

Hahaha what was the frustration level? 7 out of 10? Try annealing the end of the tube you intend to double flare

[miked]

Hahaha what was the frustration level? 7 out of 10? Try annealing the end of the tube you intend to double flare

frustration level is 9.9 out of 10!...i do not have an oxy-ace set-up at the moment to heat the ends of the lines. but i do have a rusty lpg blowtorch. i'll try that next time. only that i need to borrow the lpg from the kitchen. lol