Behr Radiators: Replace, Repair or Customize?

[jaredpogi]

My Behr radiator finally retired (actually, should be months ago, thanks to pinoy ingenuity) right after parking in my garage last night. Before I shell out 14K for a brand new replacement + new hoses, clamps etc. that can easily go up to nearly 20K (the beauty of european car ownership hehehe) and hoping to serve me for the next 10 years , I would like to put more mindworks on the other options:

Repair - it's dirt cheap (PHP300/service) and it won't last a quarter of a year.

Customize - from my experience with the old jap cars, it's tougher and more reliable than OEMs. Owners can specify in details how their radiators will be customized. Cost is halfway lower than OEM replacement. The cons however, are these all-metal heat-breakers are heavier, and since there are no plastic parts in it, the heat dissipation is less efficient (an FYI to those who thought plastic-lined radiators are for cost-cutting measures). Considering the weight, I'm not sure what is the side effect of this for old school W201's performance and engine bay stability. And the problem of bringing the car to the shop without overheating is another challenge for this exciting weekend. I hope I can learn something from other Benz owners who has a customized radiator installed to their babies.

[mbeige]

The alternative, at least here, is to go for Nissens brand radiators. Not as expensive but look very similar to the Behr and fit properly too. If you plan to keep your car for a really long time, then by all means go for the Behr. if cost can't be avoided then go with Nissens if you can find one there.

There's a reason that Behr radiator lasted your car 23 years, assuming that's the original

[lowslowmerc]

I remember a thread concerning radiators in the MBCP forum.... those plastic header tanks have a purpose... other than heat dissipation.... and that's they're designed to burst (releasing high pressure) in case the engine is in serious overheat mode... (right Pat???... ).... But since plastic degrades.... (this is further accelerated when you fancy non-MB spec coolant.. :D..)... you'll eventually have to replace the whole radiator assembly itself....

Yeah... converting it to brass headers seems to be the most cost efficient and pro-practical choice.... BUT..!!!...

I replaced my radiator assembly last year for my 200D, cost was 8K for a new Behr radiator and cap.... the rest... I just re-used it since they were still in good condition... My advice... buy a new Behr Rad... I know you love your car...

[jaredpogi]

The alternative, at least here, is to go for Nissens brand radiators. Not as expensive but look very similar to the Behr and fit properly too. If you plan to keep your car for a really long time, then by all means go for the Behr. if cost can't be avoided then go with Nissens if you can find one there.

There's a reason that Behr radiator lasted your car 23 years, assuming that's the original

Yeah, I heard Nissens is a good alternative and I think it's available here.

[mbeige]

Francis, yup you're right on the plastic bit being a large fuse. If it blew, it was to protect your engine, rather than contain the heat and not be able to transfer the heat out of the system properly. I have a Nissens on mine due to financial constraints back then (long story), it's been great so far and we've taken the car to San Francisco and back with a full cabin and trunk, no problems overheating. Then again it was also a bit cool. However, recently it's been hot and temps soared to around 36 C, which is hotter than it is there I heard. Cooling system remained calm, same gauge reading as before.

While you're at it palitan mo na rin yung thermostat, P500 lang naman siya sa Delodur if memory serves. Cheap insurance, alongside the new cap. Delodur has both OE with MB star at 140, or alternative mo is the OEM but no MB star, also rated at 140. With a new radiator kasi it'll hold pressure much better so the cooling system will find the weakest link and possibly ruin whatever is the weakest/most worn part, once you break-in your new radiator/cooling system. So if you have hoses that look bad, look into replacing them na rin. Don't forget to drain the engine block too, you get most of the bad stuff out from the cooling system/water jackets that way. On the M102/M103 I think it's on the passenger side below the exhaust manifolds. It's a large nut/bolt I believe. When in doubt ask your MB mechanic to be safe.

Then fill up with 50/50 mixture of MB coolant, the good stuff. It'll make your car happy, and you'll have peace of mind knowing the cooling system will last another decade or more. By the way check all hoses too, don't overtighten the clamps especially at the new radiator neck/s! Torque them to spec. Rule of thumb daw dyan is if you'll keep the radiator but just replace the hoses, just cut the hoses if the clamps are stubborn. That way you won't risk breaking the necks. But if you're replacing the radiator, by all means de-clamp away

I had a friend who frequented the old board, he got a W123 240D Behr radiator for 9500 daw, sa "enkat trading" if that makes any sense (I don't know the place). 8000 is even better if Francis found one that price!

[lowslowmerc]

Francis, yup you're right on the plastic bit being a large fuse. If it blew, it was to protect your engine, rather than contain the heat and not be able to transfer the heat out of the system properly. I have a Nissens on mine due to financial constraints back then (long story), it's been great so far and we've taken the car to San Francisco and back with a full cabin and trunk, no problems overheating. Then again it was also a bit cool. However, recently it's been hot and temps soared to around 36 C, which is hotter than it is there I heard. Cooling system remained calm, same gauge reading as before.

While you're at it palitan mo na rin yung thermostat, P500 lang naman siya sa Delodur if memory serves. Cheap insurance, alongside the new cap. Delodur has both OE with MB star at 140, or alternative mo is the OEM but no MB star, also rated at 140. With a new radiator kasi it'll hold pressure much better so the cooling system will find the weakest link and possibly ruin whatever is the weakest/most worn part, once you break-in your new radiator/cooling system. So if you have hoses that look bad, look into replacing them na rin. Don't forget to drain the engine block too, you get most of the bad stuff out from the cooling system/water jackets that way. On the M102/M103 I think it's on the passenger side below the exhaust manifolds. It's a large nut/bolt I believe. When in doubt ask your MB mechanic to be safe.

Then fill up with 50/50 mixture of MB coolant, the good stuff. It'll make your car happy, and you'll have peace of mind knowing the cooling system will last another decade or more. By the way check all hoses too, don't overtighten the clamps especially at the new radiator neck/s! Torque them to spec. Rule of thumb daw dyan is if you'll keep the radiator but just replace the hoses, just cut the hoses if the clamps are stubborn. That way you won't risk breaking the necks. But if you're replacing the radiator, by all means de-clamp away

I had a friend who frequented the old board, he got a W123 240D Behr radiator for 9500 daw, sa "enkat trading" if that makes any sense (I don't know the place). 8000 is even better if Francis found one that price!

Pat, Enkat Trading is at Evangelista St, here in Makati.... diagonally opposite the Unioil Gas Station along that road.... actually very near my house... But I prefer to get my parts from Alexis Auto Supply in Buendia.... (very much cheaper... :D..)

[jaredpogi]

guys, thanks for the info Enkat is quite a well-known shop in evangelista, I'll try to drop by if their price for W201 is the same