Help bumababa yun rpm pagbigla apak sa gas

[Langabe]

Sir yun vios J ko po '05 model pag naka rev po siya tapos pag release niyo ng gas apak uli bigla na lang bumababa yun RPM parang na choke po tapos patay na yun makina then pag start niyo start na uli. ok naman po yun idle niya. di po siya nalubog sa baha. Pero pag pirmis po yun rev niyo ok naman basta wag lang bombahin yun accelarator.

Ang ginawa ng mechanic:

1. Linis yun throttle Accuator Control
2. Palit Gas filter, electric fuel pump, Spark plug & coil.

[flakez]

bantayan ko to, ganyan din ung nangyayari sa civic namin. lalo na pag reverse. hehehe

[nyagi]

tried cleaning injectors na?

[franzhelmer]

Sir yun vios J ko po '05 model pag naka rev po siya tapos pag release niyo ng gas apak uli bigla na lang bumababa yun RPM parang na choke po tapos patay na yun makina then pag start niyo start na uli. ok naman po yun idle niya. di po siya nalubog sa baha. Pero pag pirmis po yun rev niyo ok naman basta wag lang bombahin yun accelarator.

Ang ginawa ng mechanic:

1. Linis yun throttle Accuator Control
2. Palit Gas filter, electric fuel pump, Spark plug & coil.

Maybe you are tanking E10 shell unleaded gas. Try cleaning the valve guides a little as well by flushing firefly into the combustion chamber.
Do you hear a ticking sound ng valves?

[Langabe]

tried cleaning injectors na?

Yup tsaka pinalitan na ng bago ganun pa din..

[Langabe]

Maybe you are tanking E10 shell unleaded gas. Try cleaning the valve guides a little as well by flushing firefly into the combustion chamber.
Do you hear a ticking sound ng valves?

Petron ako nag papagas... wala naman ticking sound akong napapansin.

[afrasay]

May MAF sensor ba ito? If yes give it a quick spray of contact cleaner.

[franzhelmer]

Petron ako nag papagas... wala naman ticking sound akong napapansin.

You mean pag apak sa gas bigla ayaw sya mag rev up imbis namamatay ung engine?


For fuel injected
Check the requirements muna to rev engine:

1. Compression
2. Fuel
3. Air
4. Spark

Pag none of the above it's your sensors. Your check engine light should have turned on. Is this the case?

[niky]

It could be TPS malfunction (you won't get a CEL if it malfunctions... it'll just read your throttle position incorrectly and throw off all the engine maps and parameters) or the idle air control valve staying stuck open for too long.

You could also try having the EGR cleaned. That's a part that's rarely considered in these situations, and it can gunk up and stick partially open as the engine revs down (it's supposed to be closed at idle, usually).

They replaced the coils and spark plugs? What a waste of money. The symptoms don't sound like a coil problem at all...

-

Contrawise... you can fill up with a different type of gas and see if the problem goes away. I've just changed from SeaOil Extreme 97 to Total 95, and it fixed my idling right up. If you're using regular unleaded or premium unleaded at 92-93 RON, you could try switching up to 95 RON gasolines from Caltex, Total or Shell (V-Power 96). Personally, V-Power is the best, but it's damn expensive. The other 95+ gasolines, like SeaOil 97 RON and Petron Blaze 97 RON seem to rely too much on ethanol as an octane booster, and so might not give the same "kick" as the other "premium" 95s.

[franzhelmer]

Pati nga fuel pump...

I doubt the Idle Air Control Valve or EGR. Since these two can't be responsible to make the engine die. They can fluctuate the RPM though or give rough idle.

If it's sensor yeah. Baka nga Throttle Position Sensor un. I'd say 70% it's the TPS. Kase he said "Pag bomba ng accelerator" un na un eh.

Niky.. I think the higher octane boost ratings is not from ethanol... Or is it? What gas would be without the ethanol.. I don't want ethanol in my car since it clogs everything up.

[niky]

You could get a divebombing idle if the IACV doesn't open when you release the gas or if the EGR doesn't close. Both items can get gummed up over time... the IACV, also, can just die. Katok. Kaput. R.I.P.... without warning. The electric motors inside these things can go south due to heat and traffic.

-

Very hard to say what gasolines have what. Most gasolines have a minimum of 10% ethanol now. From seat-of-the-pants testing (my car is very octane sensitive), it seems that the formulas and additives used to give some boutique gasolines 95+ RON aren't as good as others. It's a case-to-case and car-to-car basis... so you'll really have to test them all to find out which is best. Since ethanol is an octane booster, some may use more of it in the gasoline to meet the numbers required for marketing purposes... and since ethanol has less energy density than regular gasoline, performance may suffer.

The most objective evidence we have of this is the dyno-testing we did with V-Power and Blaze two years ago. Two different cars, both with aftermarket engine control and with ignition advance being tuned on the dyno. We were able to gain about 5 horsepower on V-Power over Blaze on both when advancing the timing to take advantage of V-Power, even though, at the time, V-Power was only "96" and Blaze was "97". I don't know if this holds true until now, since the addition of E10 has changed the formulas, but in testing and checking for "tope" on my rather highly-strung engine, I seem to get better performance on V-Power than on most high-RON gasolines.

Too bad it's so freaking expensive.

-

Oh... and if you want to run non-E10... tough luck. I'd rather not have it in my gas, either... but we're stuck with it. Best you can do is add a fuel stabilizer to the tank and run the engines often.

[bambino]

find a shop that has a scanner ,siguro sa casa ka na lang magpacheck.your car needs a driveability diagnostics