97 CRV A/T stalls while driving, have to wait 5mins+ until it starts again

[KrisKros]

While driving, usually slower speeds, the car stalls and won't start again. It cranks but won't turn over. I have to wait around 5minutes or longer for it to start again. Any ideas? It happens once a day. When the car stalls, there's no signs of sputtering or pretenses that it will stall, it just stalls.

[StockEngine]

it happens daily the past few days or the past few months..?

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[KrisKros]

it happens daily the past few days or the past few months..?

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It has happened daily or almost every day since last week. It's a recent issue

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[travajante]

While driving, usually slower speeds, the car stalls and won't start again. It cranks but won't turn over. I have to wait around 5minutes or longer for it to start again. Any ideas? It happens once a day. When the car stalls, there's no signs of sputtering or pretenses that it will stall, it just stalls.

Check your fuel distribution & ignition systems (coilpack & leads). Fuel pressure can be checked by a fuel pressure gauge. Usually, there is a Schrader valve on the injector rail for this. Do this before proceeding so you won't unnecessarily be spending for the fix. Putting the key on position 2 w/o starting wakes the pump...if there is no change in pressure in switching from 1-2, check your fuel filter or your pump. Expect a messy process. The ignition system is external, way easier. Ask your shop, dealership or a friend w/ a similar car for help....borrow some of the working parts for quick testing.

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[KrisKros]

UPDATE.
Car got worse, and wouldn't drive long (50-100meters)before it would die and wouldn't start again. No start for like 30-60mins. So basically when engine warms up, it would die.
The next day I called up Customers Cradle Las pinas, and they towed me to their shop. First thing they did was replace the ignition coil. But we still had the same issues. Then they held the car overnight to do some more troubleshooting. They replaced the PGM FI Main relay, which they said was frying my ignition coil because of a short in the main relay. So the next day I had to get another ignition coil! I thought it was all good, as I was driving away it died again. They pushed it back, did more troubleshooting, did an old school check engine light diagnosis and got a code 15, which is Ignition Output Signal. They finally got it, and it was the igniter. Car runs fine again and it's back to normal. Though there were some trials n errors, They didn't give up and found the problem. I thought they were ready to give up and I'd have to buy a new/surplus distributor, but they found the problem. Anyways, just wanted to share the update and process of finding the problem for future tsikoteers with issues with their cars.

[StockEngine]

glad it got fixed. igniter is that part of the distributor?

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[box_type]

glad it got fixed. igniter is that part of the distributor?

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hey! this happened to me too! though my car is a 1990 toyota smallbody, i almost replaced all the parts inside my distributor, first i replaced the ignition coil because the mechanic saw that there was a crack in it but still the same thing happens, car stalls on different occasions. Next i replaced the distributor cap as per mechanic advice because he says that the pins inside (the ones in contact with the rotor) are quite worn out, but still same thing happens. Next to go was the rotor as per mechanic advice due to worn out contacts, and finally the "igniter" and boom! now i have an almost brand new distributor! I was also thinking of replacing the whole distributor when the mechanic told me to replace the distributor cap but he assured me that everything's gonna be okay, oh well.... charge that to experience..